Maker Faire Build Night 2015-02-12: Difference between revisions
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The channels cut into the test piece are approximately the same width as in the final tabletop. This should give us a good idea of how the lighting will look and how to make the design better. | The channels cut into the test piece are approximately the same width as in the final tabletop. This should give us a good idea of how the lighting will look and how to make the design better. | ||
[[File:Test peice in progress 2015-02-12 .jpg|none|640px| We don't have a plunge router, but got good results holding the router at a slight angle and gradually cuting down into the surface in a slope]] | [[File:Test peice in progress 2015-02-12 .jpg|none|640px|thumb|We don't have a plunge router, but got good results holding the router at a slight angle and gradually cuting down into the surface in a slope]] | ||
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[[File:Removing the bubbles 2015-02-12 .jpg|none|640px|thumb]] | [[File:Removing the bubbles 2015-02-12 .jpg|none|640px|thumb]] | ||
Revision as of 19:38, 14 February 2015
This is part of the Noisebridge Booth for Maker Fair 2015 project
The project has begun!
We started with the task of gathering a couple test materials and building our test pieces for the table top.
TAP Plastics recommended Ultra-Glo resin for this project. Apparently this resin can also be used to finish the wood on the table so we can go right over the resin and wood together to give the final table top a smooth flush surface. The finished table based on the design so far will end up needed about 110 oz of resing to make the Noisebridge logo.
The channels cut into the test piece are approximately the same width as in the final tabletop. This should give us a good idea of how the lighting will look and how to make the design better.
The current detail of the lighting channel using a sheet of 1/2" wood for the resin logo and then a 3/4" sheet for the LEDs and the substructure for table top. We plan to cut these together, free hand, so that both pieces match.
At TAP Plastics, they said the resin will not stick to mylar sheets. We have used spray adhesive to stick the mylar to the back of the resin test piece. This was then screwed to another piece of plywood to support the resin as it sits on top of the mylar. The mylar will be removed once the resin has cured