MaxNCMill - Revision history

Jmathur: Added metal CNC settings

2024-06-17T13:15:15Z

Added metal CNC settings

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:15, 17 June 2024
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	# Use CAM software to design how your part will be manufactured. Importantly, set the workpiece origin to something you can move the cutter bit to. This typically means something on the top surface of the part, such as the center or edge.		# Use CAM software to design how your part will be manufactured. Importantly, set the workpiece origin to something you can move the cutter bit to. This typically means something on the top surface of the part, such as the center or edge.
	# Use the CAM software to export G-code (Fusion gives a .NC file)		# Use the CAM software to export G-code (Fusion gives a .NC file)
	# Start UGS. If doing this for the first time, use the Setup Machine wizard. IMPORT THE FOLLOWING SETTINGS FILE: ~~TODO~~.		# Start UGS. If doing this for the first time, use the Setup Machine wizard. IMPORT THE FOLLOWING SETTINGS FILE: [https://drive.google.com/file/d/162wdpnPYu8wEOTEb1WtYXnMMx1JPT6rG/view?usp=sharing].
	# Import the G-code into UGS		# Import the G-code into UGS
	# Move the workpiece into the vice and bolt everything down. The piece must be very securely held. Use the smaller Allen wrench in the FoxAllen cardboard box to loosen/tighten the vice bolts.		# Move the workpiece into the vice and bolt everything down. The piece must be very securely held. Use the smaller Allen wrench in the FoxAllen cardboard box to loosen/tighten the vice bolts.

Jmathur: /* Part 2: How the CNC was fixed */

2024-06-14T03:17:56Z

Part 2: How the CNC was fixed

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:17, 13 June 2024
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	\|2B		\|2B
	\|}		\|}
	After doing this, I decided I wanted to add software control of spindle speed via PWM. This requires a high-voltage motor controller (the spindle motor is 120 V AC rectified so about 170 V DC). In the most basic implementation, a DC motor controller is just a transistor, so I tried getting a high-voltage MOSFET (specifically an IRFP460). I also added a flyback diode to prevent motor back-EMF from frying the MOSFET. This worked for a day, then failed. The issue could have been a low-quality MOSFET or poor connection quality of the diode. I suspect the latter, but didn’t have time to verify. So, for now I have an AC relay installed to provide on-off control of the spindle. However, some circuitry is still present due to the old MOSFET-control design. Specifically, because more circuitry was being added around the DC circuit, and the DC circuit (both + and - lines) is at a higher potential than the grounded metal case, I wanted to add some electrical protection. In general, it is good practice to put an isolation transformer between wall AC and an appliance circuit, especially a rectified DC circuit. For more discussion on this, see [https://discord.com/channels/720514857094348840/738619462663536651/1244489063122075780.]. To this end, I purchased a fused isolation transformer ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B886DGS]). For some reason, the output of the transformer picks up a fairly high voltage with respect to the grounded metal case. I saw online that this is expected due to some capacitance between the transformer windings, but very little current should conduct on this line. To test this, I connected a metal wire between the two transformer outputs (one at a time) and the grounded case. Nothing exploded, there was no current. So, I think this is safe. Anyways, the transformer (barely) fits within the metal case. But, there is also a wall-plug cable that goes into one end of the transformer, which then makes the transformer wider than the metal case. So, I had to make the metal case sit on its own, as you can see in the photos. The polycarb window should prevent metal chips from flying into the case, but I have to admit I don’t love the case just sitting out like this. See possible improvement #2 for a solution.		After doing this, I decided I wanted to add software control of spindle speed via PWM. This requires a high-voltage motor controller (the spindle motor is 120 V AC rectified so about 170 V DC). In the most basic implementation, a DC motor controller is just a transistor, so I tried getting a high-voltage MOSFET (specifically an IRFP460). I also added a flyback diode to prevent motor back-EMF from frying the MOSFET. This worked for a day, then failed. The issue could have been a low-quality MOSFET or poor connection quality of the diode. I suspect the latter, but didn’t have time to verify. So, for now I have an AC relay installed to provide on-off control of the spindle. However, some circuitry is still present due to the old MOSFET-control design. Specifically, because more circuitry was being added around the DC circuit, and the DC circuit (both + and - lines) is at a higher potential than the grounded metal case, I wanted to add some electrical protection. In general, it is good practice to put an isolation transformer between wall AC and an appliance circuit, especially a rectified DC circuit. For more discussion on this, see [https://discord.com/channels/720514857094348840/738619462663536651/1244489063122075780.]. To this end, I purchased a fused isolation transformer ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B886DGS]). For some reason, the output of the transformer picks up a fairly high voltage with respect to the grounded metal case. I saw online that this is expected due to some capacitance between the transformer windings, but very little current should conduct on this line. To test this, I connected a metal wire between the two transformer outputs (one at a time) and the grounded case. Nothing exploded, there was no current. So, I think this is safe. Anyways, the transformer (barely) fits within the metal case. But, there is also a wall-plug cable that goes into one end of the transformer, which then makes the transformer wider than the metal case. '''So, I had to make the metal case sit on its own, as you can see in the photos'''. The polycarb window should prevent metal chips from flying into the case, but I have to admit I don’t love the case just sitting out like this. See possible improvement #2 for a solution.


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	# Closed-loop control. The entire Arduino system would need to be replaced.		# Closed-loop control. The entire Arduino system would need to be replaced.

	For those that want to improve/debug the electronics, UNPLUG EVERYTHING FROM WALL BEFORE DOING ANYTHING. Because as stated before, wires are live in the case even ~~with~~ the switch on the metal case is off. Even if you are touching the Arduino, do you want your hand 4 inches away from live 120 V AC? Your choice.		For those that want to improve/debug the electronics, UNPLUG EVERYTHING FROM WALL BEFORE DOING ANYTHING. Because as stated before, '''wires are live in the case even when the switch on the metal case is off.''' Even if you are just touching the Arduino, do you want your hand 4 inches away from live 120 V AC? Your choice.

	Other details:		Other details:

Jmathur: Part 2: How CNC works

2024-06-14T03:13:58Z

Part 2: How CNC works

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 # Start UGS. If doing this for the first time, use the Setup Machine wizard. IMPORT THE FOLLOWING SETTINGS FILE: TODO.
 # Import the G-code into UGS
-# Move the workpiece into the vice and bolt everything down. The piece must be very securely held. Use the smaller Allen wrench in the FoxAllen cardboard box to loosen/tighten the vice bolts. TODO: photo
+# Move the workpiece into the vice and bolt everything down. The piece must be very securely held. Use the smaller Allen wrench in the FoxAllen cardboard box to loosen/tighten the vice bolts.
 # Use the Jog Controller to move the cutter to the origin of the workpiece. The cutter position should align with the origin in the CAM software. Be careful, moving the cutter too aggressively can cause the cutter to hit the workpiece/vice.
 # RUN BOTH OF THE FOLLOWING COMMANDS. If you do not do this, your cut will not execute as expected. These set the current position as the home position and the origin. TODO: make this a macro or something.
@@ Line 56: / Line 56: @@
 [[File:Spindle_relay.png|400x400px]]<br />There is a relay controlling whether the spindle motor circuit is closed or open. It shines a red LED when the circuit is closed, as shown. The spindle should never spin if this LED is off. Conversely, the spindle should always spin if this LED is on. Note: this relay is built around an optocoupler and therefore is not suitable for PWM (more on this in the second section). The generated G-code should turn this relay on and off. You should have to do nothing to turn the spindle on/off, but this is helpful debug information.
 == Old Documentation ==
-⚠️ All documentation below is before the fix by @jmathur. It may still have some helpful information, so it is kept around.
+All documentation below is before the fix by @jmathur. It may still have some helpful information, so it is kept around.
 == IMPORTANT! ==

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:39:34Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:39, 13 June 2024
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	# It follows a right-hand coordinate system (see the photo below).		# It follows a right-hand coordinate system (see the photo below).
	# There are no limit or homing switches. This means you, the operator, need to be smart.		# There are no limit or homing switches. This means you, the operator, need to be smart.
	# The spindle spins at a fixed 8000 RPM (or maybe 10k RPM; see ~~<nowiki>~~https://web.archive.org/web/20180725002850/http://032568b.netsolhost.com/page13.html~~</nowiki>~~). Different RPMs can be achieved by changing the pulley drive system. For a discussion on what it would take to get software-controlled variable speed control, see the second section of this guide.		# The spindle spins at a fixed 8000 RPM (or maybe 10k RPM; see [https://web.archive.org/web/20180725002850/http://032568b.netsolhost.com/page13.html]). Different RPMs can be achieved by changing the pulley drive system. For a discussion on what it would take to get software-controlled variable speed control, see the second section of this guide.

	[[File:Cnc_axes.png\|320x320px]]<br />To change bits, loosen the black collet nut. Then select the right collet (collets should be stored in one of the trays on the table) and bit and install them. Hand-tightening the black collet nut will probably suffice, but I haven’t tested many metal cuts and maybe it needs to be tighter for that. The collets come from Taig Tools (specifically 1040 Collet Set).		[[File:Cnc_axes.png\|320x320px]]<br />To change bits, loosen the black collet nut. Then select the right collet (collets should be stored in one of the trays on the table) and bit and install them. Hand-tightening the black collet nut will probably suffice, but I haven’t tested many metal cuts and maybe it needs to be tighter for that. The collets come from Taig Tools (specifically 1040 Collet Set).

	Next, download Universal G-Code Sender (~~<nowiki>~~https://winder.github.io/ugs_website/~~</nowiki>~~). You should see a serial device, click that and connect to it. UGS should print sensible messages to the console and say that the connected device is running GRBL. GRBL (~~<nowiki>~~https://github.com/grbl/grbl~~</nowiki>~~) is an open-source open-loop control software that enables an Arduino to control a CNC machine.		Next, download Universal G-Code Sender ([https://winder.github.io/ugs_website/]). You should see a serial device, click that and connect to it. UGS should print sensible messages to the console and say that the connected device is running GRBL. GRBL ([https://github.com/grbl/grbl]) is an open-source open-loop control software that enables an Arduino to control a CNC machine.

	Now, your job is to use some CAM software to generate G-code for manufacturing your part. I used Autodesk Fusion, and it works well enough. There are many guides online about how to use Fusion and generate CNC G-code, so I won’t discuss how to do this in detail. A quick outline is:		Now, your job is to use some CAM software to generate G-code for manufacturing your part. I used Autodesk Fusion, and it works well enough. There are many guides online about how to use Fusion and generate CNC G-code, so I won’t discuss how to do this in detail. A quick outline is:

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:36:43Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 13 June 2024
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	[[File:The_24V_DC_Power_Supply.png\|400x400px]]		[[File:The_24V_DC_Power_Supply.png\|400x400px]]



	Next, take your hand around the left side of the CNC and to the case. Press the switch to power the case circuitry. See the photo below to see where the switch is (it lights up red when pressed). Your hand needs to get there, but you MUST go around the left side of the CNC. DO NOT raise the window and power on that way. If you want to know why, read the second part of this guide.		Next, take your hand around the left side of the CNC and to the case. Press the switch to power the case circuitry. See the photo below to see where the switch is (it lights up red when pressed). Your hand needs to get there, but you MUST go around the left side of the CNC. DO NOT raise the window and power on that way. If you want to know why, read the second part of this guide.

	[[File:Switch_photo.png\|480x480px]]~~<br />~~		[[File:Switch_photo.png\|480x480px]]

	Now, the CNC should be fully operational. You should hear a high-pitched coil whine from (I think) the steppers. The CNC spindle SHOULD NOT start just by pressing the switch. If it does, something is wrong and that is a hazard. Some quick facts about this CNC.		Now, the CNC should be fully operational. You should hear a high-pitched coil whine from (I think) the steppers. The CNC spindle SHOULD NOT start just by pressing the switch. If it does, something is wrong and that is a hazard. Some quick facts about this CNC.

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:36:23Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 13 June 2024
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	== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==		== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==
	To begin, this is the CNC:[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]		To begin, this is the CNC:

			[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]

	There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.		There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:36:06Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 13 June 2024
Line 13:		Line 13:

	== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==		== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==
	To begin, this is the CNC:		To begin, this is the CNC:[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]


	[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]



	There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.		There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:35:12Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

@@ Line 14: / Line 14: @@
 == Part 1: How to use the CNC ==
 To begin, this is the CNC:
 [[File:MaxNC_10.jpg|504x504px]]
 There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.
 [[File:The_24V_DC_Power_Supply.png|400x400px]]
 Next, take your hand around the left side of the CNC and to the case. Press the switch to power the case circuitry. See the photo below to see where the switch is (it lights up red when pressed). Your hand needs to get there, but you MUST go around the left side of the CNC. DO NOT raise the window and power on that way. If you want to know why, read the second part of this guide.
 Now, the CNC should be fully operational. You should hear a high-pitched coil whine from (I think) the steppers. The CNC spindle SHOULD NOT start just by pressing the switch. If it does, something is wrong and that is a hazard. Some quick facts about this CNC.
@@ Line 52: / Line 36: @@
 # The spindle spins at a fixed 8000 RPM (or maybe 10k RPM; see <nowiki>https://web.archive.org/web/20180725002850/http://032568b.netsolhost.com/page13.html</nowiki>). Different RPMs can be achieved by changing the pulley drive system. For a discussion on what it would take to get software-controlled variable speed control, see the second section of this guide.
-[[File:Cnc axes.png|left|thumb]]
+[[File:Cnc_axes.png|320x320px]]<br />To change bits, loosen the black collet nut. Then select the right collet (collets should be stored in one of the trays on the table) and bit and install them. Hand-tightening the black collet nut will probably suffice, but I haven’t tested many metal cuts and maybe it needs to be tighter for that. The collets come from Taig Tools (specifically 1040 Collet Set).
 Next, download Universal G-Code Sender (<nowiki>https://winder.github.io/ugs_website/</nowiki>). You should see a serial device, click that and connect to it. UGS should print sensible messages to the console and say that the connected device is running GRBL. GRBL (<nowiki>https://github.com/grbl/grbl</nowiki>) is an open-source open-loop control software that enables an Arduino to control a CNC machine.
@@ Line 91: / Line 59: @@
 While operational, the CNC should look like this:
 == Old Documentation ==
 ⚠️ All documentation below is before the fix by @jmathur. It may still have some helpful information, so it is kept around.

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:33:06Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:33, 13 June 2024
Line 14:		Line 14:
	== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==		== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==
	To begin, this is the CNC:		To begin, this is the CNC:


	[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]		[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]



	There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.		There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.

Jmathur: /* Part 1: How to use the CNC */

2024-06-14T02:32:48Z

Part 1: How to use the CNC

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:32, 13 June 2024
Line 14:		Line 14:
	== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==		== Part 1: How to use the CNC ==
	To begin, this is the CNC:		To begin, this is the CNC:
	~~[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]~~

	There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.[[File:The 24V DC Power Supply.png\|left\|thumb]]


			[[File:MaxNC_10.jpg\|504x504px]]



			There are three cables coming out the side, two of which plug into the wall outlet. One provides power to the spindle motor. The other is an AC-DC adapter and provides 24 V to the stepper motors. Plug these into the wall outlet or power strip. The 3rd cable is a USB cable and is responsible for sending G-code from your laptop to the Arduino Uno. Plug this into your laptop (TODO: get a dedicated laptop). After plugging in the USB cable, the green LED on the Uno should light up (you can see it in the above photo). The 24 V stepper power supply is currently duct-taped to the top of the CNC box. Turn the dial all the way to the right. This display should read ~24 V. To turn it off, turn it all the way to the left. You should hear a ‘click’. It might take ~20sec for the display to say 0 V when off.

			[[File:The_24V_DC_Power_Supply.png\|400x400px]]