Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

New Network

2013-10-26T05:51:39Z

Zzarzzur:

== Status ==
Getting [[Stallion2]] up and running 
[===>_________________] 35% Complete

== New Network? ==
On 2013-10-03, the network went down.
We spent 2 hours of troubleshooting the equipment, before we managed to get a patch going from the MonkeyBrains antennae to the WiFi.
As of 17:02 2013-10-03, there is a lame D-Link router in between.

With the patch in place, and the WiFi being up regardless of whether or not any of the switches are online, I proposed we redo ALL the network infrastructure. Here's how I plan to do it.

== Logistics ==
Simply put, I want there to be 3 internal networks.
* Stallion/Minotaur
* Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers
* User Network

=== Network Information ===

==== Stallion/Minotaur ====
This network will be what it says it's for. On this network, all essential equipment will be on this network.

==== Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers ====
All the dedicated terminals will be on this network, and possibly the classrooms

==== User Network ====
The user network will be anyone that connects to the WiFi, or plugs into the Ethernet. <strike>The user network will be locked down, throttled, and filtered.</strike><strike> hahahahahaha no</strike> Maybe not filtered or locked down, but throttled.

=== Steps/ToDo List ===
Y) Locate antennae connection
Y) Go up on the roof
Y) Find the antennae
Y) Follow the cord down into the space
Y) Locate it's connection to the switch
Y) Create temporary patch independent of switches for WiFi
Y) Disconnect WiFI from switch
Y) Disconnect Antennae from switch
Y) Install a temporary firewall in front of the Antennae
Y) Patch the Antennae through to the WiFi
Y) Connect a LAN Port from the firewall to the switch(To keep Ethernet lines live)
=) Equip [[Stallion2]]
=) Add Network Interfaces
Y) Add to server rack
*) Configure [[Stallion2]]
Y) Root it/Reimage
*) Install/Configure
*) DHCP
*) DNS
*) IP router
*) Bandwidth throttler
*) IPtables
*) Squid3(?)
*) Disconnect all networking except for patch
*) Down with the switches!(As in turning them off, not tossing them out)
*) Migrate all equipment to a single rack
*) Either the one up top, or the one Pony is on
*) Install a switch for ISP(s)
*) Find a suitable switch
*) Plug our ISP(s) into it
*) Plug into Stallion2
*) Organize all Ethernet cables
*) Sort by where they are going to
*) Ziptie groups together
*) Label
*) Plug everything in
*) Connect all the Ethernet cables
*) Deploy [[Stallion2]]
*) Press the power button
*) TaDa!
*) Enjoy new and improved internet!

New Network

2013-10-26T05:51:06Z

Zzarzzur:

== Status ==
Getting [[Stallion2]] up and running 
[===>_________________] 35% Complete

== New Network? ==
On 2013-10-03, the network went down.
We spent 2 hours of troubleshooting the equipment, before we managed to get a patch going from the MonkeyBrains antennae to the WiFi.
As of 17:02 2013-10-03, there is a lame D-Link router in between.

With the patch in place, and the WiFi being up regardless of whether or not any of the switches are online, I proposed we redo ALL the network infrastructure. Here's how I plan to do it.

== Logistics ==
Simply put, I want there to be 3 internal networks.
* Stallion/Minotaur
* Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers
* User Network

=== Network Information ===

==== Stallion/Minotaur ====
This network will be what it says it's for. On this network, all essential equipment will be on this network.

==== Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers ====
All the dedicated terminals will be on this network, and possibly the classrooms

==== User Network ====
The user network will be anyone that connects to the WiFi, or plugs into the Ethernet. <strike>The user network will be locked down, throttled, and filtered.</strike><strike> hahahahahaha no</strike> Maybe not filtered or locked down, but throttled.

=== Steps/ToDo List ===
Y) Locate antennae connection
Y) Go up on the roof
Y) Find the antennae
Y) Follow the cord down into the space
Y) Locate it's connection to the switch
Y) Create temporary patch independent of switches for WiFi
Y) Disconnect WiFI from switch
Y) Disconnect Antennae from switch
Y) Install a temporary firewall in front of the Antennae
Y) Patch the Antennae through to the WiFi
Y) Connect a LAN Port from the firewall to the switch(To keep Ethernet lines live)
=) Equip [[Stallion2]]
=) Add Network Interfaces
Y) Add to server rack
*) Configure [[Stallion2]]
Y) Root it/Reimage
*) Install/Configure
*) DHCP
*) DNS
*) IP router
*) Bandwidth throttler
*) IPtables
*) Squid3(?)
*) Disconnect all networking except for patch
*) Down with the switches!(As in turning them off, not tossing them out.)
*) Migrate all equipment to a single rack
*) Either the one up top, or the one Pony is on
*) Install a switch for ISP(s)
*) Find a suitable switch
*) Plug our ISP(s) into it
*) Plug into Stallion2
*) Organize all Ethernet cables
*) Sort by where they are going to
*) Ziptie groups together
*) Label
*) Plug everything in
*) Connect all the Ethernet cables
*) Deploy [[Stallion2]]
*) Press the power button
*) TaDa!
*) Enjoy new and improved internet!

User:Zzarzzur

2013-10-04T06:01:20Z

Zzarzzur: Added my site

I am Omar.
==SSH PubKey==
<pre style="overflow: auto; padding: .5em;">
ssh-rsa AAAAB3NzaC1yc2EAAAADAQABAAABAQDLF3WWi98uPq2G0XqKXwqfNifTz3lc2t5xs3MgGk6Lu/huXLRMcjTGkZOp1afRyLkBjH6zuYzKdNvAtuEdqOaYX2p14eYqcP1rt6dPRwVFoAEgnCixTSu290r4IKXc1onHlR8LMJP6nyLBBthlRsKduAVVjO3zIaErbAZzPOz4UeIPYuDQTXqzgp+qAT0WEqSgtraukp6An6gmPaif68UhqPtbpWxg9QqsxU0EAPSxNHSkAKzHEnMjnoCLw4dEr6h5X73RymRhoaWyWfVyomZkowhvZUBi+hgnyWF32Ff0koLY+mJy+9RwEQ42tPmaGE4VtU5Sjfv7CV6GFImcXGdD k1llerz@Omars-MacBook-Pro.local</pre>
==adduser stanza==
# adduser --shell /bin/bash --gecos 'Omar Zouai' k1llerz

== My Sites ==
=== The Cloud Committee ===
I'm currently working on a site called [http://cloudcommittee.tk The Cloud Committee]. The site is mainly going to be documentation on how to get things done on a computer, with tips and scripts to help you get the job done. 
If you could check it out, or maybe link to it on your site to help with our PageRank on Google, that would be extremely helpful, and we will do the same.

Resources/Network

2013-10-04T05:56:39Z

Zzarzzur: Added link to New Network

== [[New Network]] ==
We are underway of getting a new network up and running in NoiseBridge 
Check out the [[New Network]] to see what has been done, and what needs to be done.

== [[Network Troubleshooting]] ==

Are you having issues with the internet or local network? Check out the [[Network Troubleshooting]] page for more information on what you can do to make things better or possibly seek help.

== Disclaimer ==

''Please note that Noisebridge does not guarantee or provide a perfect secure experience in the space. Just like anywhere else in the world you're held responsible for your own safety and wellbeing. This also includes content you receive or transmit or provide through any mediums, such as through pen and paper, sound waves or any networks wired or wireless functioning in the space. Noisebridge is a volunteer run and operated space that provides you with infrastructure, which you use at your own risk.''

''As much as anyone volunteering at the space could state that we (Noisebridge) can provide you with a secure web browsing experience, this view may not be reflected over all of its members and participants (which is the actual case). Please take our advice and services with a grain of salt and understand that the only sure secure network is one that you setup and operate yourself.''

''Thank you for reading, please continue now on creating interesting things.''

--[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 05:48, 25 December 2010 (UTC)

== Wireless networks ==
=== Free Open Unsecure Wifi ===
Noisebridge generally has two or more unencrypted open wifi access points available for your use. If you can see the "noisebridge-a" network, congratulations, you have an 802.11a-compatible card and should use this network as it is better faster and stronger than the others. If you cannot see noisebridge-a, either it is not working or you do not have an 802.11a card. You probably have an 802.11g card. Hopefully you can see the "noisebridge" network, which is the one you should use in that case. Like any public network, you should regard noisebridge's as [[Visitor_advice#Hostile_network|potentially hostile]] and take appropriate precautions.

The following networks are active at 2169 now:
* '''noisebridge''' - No encryption, NATted via the Sonic.net and Monkeybrains links, 802.11bg
* '''noisebridge-a''' - No encryption, NATted via the Sonic.net and Monkeybrains links, 802.11a
* '''noisebridge-tor''' - No encryption, all traffic transparently proxied through tor.

=== Free Encrypted Unsecure Wifi ===
There are sometimes "secure" or encrypted wireless networks running at Noisebridge for research purposes. Please do not assume that these networks are in any way safer than an open network is; they are not.

Encrypted wireless only means that anything transmitted between your laptop and the wifi access point is encrypted. '''This does not guarantee security or privacy at all.''' Someone malicious could simply sit in between the Internet and the wifi access point and sniff all of your traffic after the access point unencrypts it, or they can figure out how the encryption functions and sit in on what you're transmitting, or you use an encryption method that is already broken. In any case, '''using an encrypted wifi network does not provide any useful security benefits at Noisebridge.'''

:NOTE: No technology 'guarantees' security or privacy. The above statement is true, and using the encrypted wifi network at Noisebridge doesn't give you more security, since the shared secret is widely known and the space is not secure. But WPA2 is a useful technology in general, and it's not practical to brute force if the [http://wifinetnews.com/archives/2003/11/weakness_in_passphrase_choice_in_wpa_interface.html key is longer than 13 random characters]. By comparison, people who use unencrypted wireless are subject to [http://www.ethicalhacker.net/content/view/182/1/ trivially easy packet sniffing over the wire].

In most cases you may encounter more problems trying to get "online" through one of the encrypted networks than using one of the open ones.

A few members of the space have gone out of their way to make the Internet run as smooth as possible; part of that is disabling these so-called secure networks [where do we call this "secure"?] to give room for the legitimate{{fact}} open ones that work a whole lot better{{fact}}.

You may want to see the [http://news.cnet.com/8301-31921_3-57394889-281/five-ways-to-protect-yourself-from-wi-fi-honeypots/ WiFi Pineapple Mark IV] in action to see how easy it is to honeypot a WIFI.

== DNS ==

Dynamic DNS is provided by the nat machine for DHCP clients on 172.30.0.30/22. Resolution of machines with static addresses is done by ipv4 or ipv6 mDNS and dynamic DNS entries on the nat machine from the DHCP service.

== Development ==
* See [[Network/testing]].

==Network Devices & Services==
* [[Music]]
* [[Printers]]
* [[Infrastructure]]

= 2169 Mission =

== Uplinks ==
=== DSL Circuit ===

There is a Sonic.net Fusion ADSL2+ DSL connection in the building. The physical circuit comes in from the MPOE in the basement and runs across the roof of the basement and up the side of the building into the DJ booth (Tea Room), then over to the Wall o' Tubes. The CPE is a Motorola 2210 ADSL2+. The admin password is the serial number, written on the bottom.

The addressing configuration is a little unusual. It's 75.101.62.0/24 and we've been allocated a /29 within that block: 75.101.62.88 - 75.101.62.95. Note that we get to use all 8 addresses; the broadcast and network address are 75.101.62.255 and 75.101.62.0 respectively. The gateway is 75.101.62.1.

The default CPE settings are not correct for our circuit configuration. From a factory reset, do the following to configure the CPE:

# Configure a computer for 192.168.1.253/24.
# Connect the computer to the DSL CPE.
# Power cycle the DSL CPE.
# Connect to 192.168.1.254 using your web browser.
# You will be prompted to set a password, use the serial number on the bottom of the DSL CPE.
# Get into expert mode.
# Under configure->connections, set the following:
## VPI: 0
## VCI: 35
## Protocol: Bridged Ethernet LLC/SNAP
## Bridging: on
# Under configure->DHCP server, set the following:
## DHCP Server Enabled: unchecked
# Save and reboot.

[http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/2210-02/downloads/2210-02-10NA-UserGuide.pdf Motorola 2210 User Guide]

=== Monkeybrains Wireless Link ===
We have a point-to-point wireless link to Monkeybrains on the roof.

=== SFBroadband / City of SF / Internet Archive ===

We have a wireless point-to-point path up to Twin Peaks that connects up to a city-owned and volunteer-run IP transit network. Currently, we're hitting the dish off of the side and have a pretty terrible connection. For now, this network path is mostly only usable as a backup path.

There is a router in our wireless CPE hardware (st01-noisebridge-sfo) that connects up to the Noisebridge network and terminates as 172.30.0.54 on the "Inside / Internal" network. Set your default route via this IP to try the other path.

== Access Control==

Most hardware is set to use the most guessable logins and passwords possible. If you're interested in logging in, just make some guesses as to what the login can be. Use your favorite search engine. Poke around. Hack.

Experience the thrill of guessing a password that just works.

== Routers ==
Currently, DHCPd is handing out a default gateway (172.30.0.2) that belongs to bikeshed.noise

===bikeshed===
The primary noisebrdige router for our is a Soekris running Vyatta(a Linux-based router distribution).

The machines currently provides
* dhcpd
* DNS (dnsmasq) - .noise local TLD and recursive proxy
* Automatic loadbalancing and ailover between Sonic DSL and monkeybrains

Access is via SSH with keys.

== Address Allocations ==
The reserved address allocations are:

===75.101.62.88/29 from Sonic.net===
We have a range within the encompassing /24: 75.101.62.{88..95}

* .88 - router ("r00ter")
* .89 - pony.noisebridge.net
* .90 - stallion.noisebridge.net
* .91 - ChaosVPN la fonera eth0.1
* .92 - minotaur.noisebridge.net
* .93 - [[Noise-Bot|MC Hawking -- The Wheelchair Robot]]
* .94 - Unallocated
* .95 - Mode-S Equipment (various port-NATings)

===172.30.0.0/22 ("inside" network)===
====172.30.0.0 - 127 Statically-addressed things====

''Note: This is '''not''' a /25 subnet! The netmask is a /22.''

* .1 - r00ter - main soekris router connected to the sonic.net DSL (runs OpenBSD and pf)
* .2 - bikeshed, soekris router hooked up the Monkeybrains wireless link (runs Vyatta Linux and iptables/netfilter)
* .3 - unicornpee.noise, Vyatta testing VM on stallion.noise
* .4 - minotaur - console server and network troubleshooting/monitoring box
* .5 - goat - Internal network testing VM on stallion
* .6 - treechopper, [http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bc/docs/support/SupportManual/bpl07288/bpl07288.pdf|HP Laserjet 5Si MX] (working, not hosed)
* .7 - OpenGear IP Power 9258 in supply closet (power1)
* .8 - switch1 - Linksys 48-port gige
* .9 - switch2 - Cisco Catalyst 2940 TWoT
* .10 - stallion - VM hosting server
* .11 - ChaosVPN la fonera internal interface (br-lan)
* .12 - ap3 - [http://www.ubnt.com/powerstation Powerstation 5] 802.11a (above the supply closet)
* .13 - ap2 - Cisco Aironet 1100 series (above the supply closet)
* .14 - ap4 - Cisco Aironet 1100 series (above the Eastern windows)
* .15 - switch3 - Juniper EX-2200-24P-4G (donated by [[User:Jof|jof]] and J-iNet Solutions)
* .16 - wlan1 - A Ruckus Wireless Zone Director 1000
* .17 - Cisco Aironet 1220B (wbr1)
* .18 - Cisco Aironet 1220B (wbr2)
* .19 - switch5 - Cisco Catalyst 3550-12T - DECOMMISSIONED
* .20 - D-Link DIR-615 AP (ap5, in Turing)
* .21 - Reserving for Door-duino -- [[User:Jof|jof]]
* .30 - [[Pony]], main sandbox server
* .31 - [[Touch_Panels|Touchpanel]] by the door
* .32 - [[Touch_Panels|Touchpanel]] by the bar
* .33 - [[Touch_Panels|Touchpanel]] by the turing
* .34 - Linux Study Group Linksys BBEFS41 Router
* .35 - Cisco IP Phone
* .36 - Red Payphone (Linksys PAP2)
* .41 - [[Zebra]], Rebar and jukebox, Brother print server
* .42 - [[Ass]], greeting terminal
* .43 - Cisco SIP Phone
* .44 - [[Horsy]]. media center
* .48 - [[s3]]
* .49 - [[s3]] BMC
* .50 - [[Noise-Bot|MC Hawking -- The Wheelchair Robot]]
* .51 - Noise-Bot-Server; back-end computing for Noise-Bot
* .52 - bunny (on the roof)
* .53 - ronin (works with bunny, lives in Susan the Rack)
* .54 - st01-noisebridge-sfo (sfwireless.org Ubiquiti Nanobridge M5 on the roof. Currently aimed at Twin Peaks.)
* .55 - [[HP DesignJet 650C]]
* .56 - Brother HL-2070N ( by laser cutter)

====172.30.0.128/25, 172.30.1.0/24, 172.30.2.0/24, 172.30.3.0/24====
* DHCP-assigned, user-access IP space

===172.30.4.0/24 (Tor-ified network)===

Note that 172.30.4.1 transparently proxies TCP connections via privoxy to tor.

* .1 - "torbridge" interface on pony
* .2 - "noisebridge-tor" access point.
* .10 - .254 -- Tor-ified clients (served by DHCP)

===172.31.0.0/24===

This is a separate NAT-ed network for Monkeybrains-only traffic. It's served by "bikeshed".

* .1 - wlan0.bikeshed.noise
* .100 - .199 -- DHCP pool for clients.

=== 10.100.4.0/23 ChaosVPN Range ===
* Network in the ChaosVPN
** Has yet to be setup. In the future, we may join the network so that we can route to other hackerspaces
* [http://wiki.hamburg.ccc.de/index.php/ChaosVPN#ip_ranges ChaosVPN Wiki]

=== IPv6 ===

We have IPv6 support on the DSL circuit via a tunnel provided by sonic.net. Some details on how to get the OpenBSD-based flashrd distribution on the routers to tunnel correctly can be found on the [[Flashrd]] page.

Note that using IPv6 in some situations can result in people knowing what model of computer you have and the network card's serial number, because of the way IPv6 stateless address configuration works. If this is a concern, tell your computer not to use IPv6. Ask around Noisebridge if you need help or want more details.

==== 2001:5a8:4:5630::/60 ====

This is the IPv6 subnet assigned to us by sonic. We only use the bottom /64 of this /60 so automatic address configuration works right; the other 15/16s of the address space are intentionally wasted. r00ter hands out IPv6 router advertisements for this subnet directly. They're directly routable, but unsolicited incoming traffic is blocked by the firewall to protect the users. This means you can't run an IPv6 server on our IPv6 subnet, but you can connect to other machines on the IPv6 Internet just fine. If you really need to run an IPv6 server for some reason, consider using Teredo.

== OOB Management ==

{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5"
!Device
!Where
!Settings
|-
|gorilla
|ops /dev/ttyS0
|9600
|-
|r00ter
|ops /dev/ttyS1
|9600
|-
|Maybe this port doesn't work?
|ops /dev/ttyS2
|
|-
|stallion
|ops /dev/ttyS3
|
|-
|s2
|ops /dev/ttyS4
|
|-
|modem
|ops /dev/ttyS5
|
|-
|}

=== Dial Backup ===

There is a modem connected to 415 800 6786 which you can call to talk to an mgetty process on the ops machine. This may be handy if the upstream Internet connections aren't working or you locked yourself out by accident. Please don't dial out on the modem, it costs money. Inbound calls on that circuit are free.

The modem is a [http://www.usr.com/support/product-template.asp?prod=2806 US Robotics 56K Corporate Analog Modem]. If you don't have a modem in your computer, you might be able to call it using your mobile phone. Just tether your phone to your computer like you normally would, but call our modem instead of calling the number to start the tethering connection.

The modem has its remote access feature enabled. Read the manual for details.

== IP PDU ==

There is an IP PDU (model "IP 9258") at 172.30.0.7 which can be used to power cycle some of the devices in Susan the Rack.

To change the state of the power ports, you'll need to telnet in and run "setpower=11000000". Each index represents a port, "1" is on and "0" is off. Port 1 sometimes doesn't turn on unless you use the web interface, and it might take a couple requests. Just keep clicking the apply button until it looks like power has been applied.

Changing some settings on the IP 9258 in the web interface may result in the power being cycled on some of the ports. Don't change settings unless you're prepared to deal with machines spontaneously resetting.

{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5"
!Port
!Device
|-
|1
|s2
|-
|2
|pony
|-
|3
|Power Strip with: Stallion, Sonic.net DSL Modem, and r00ter
|-
|4
|gorilla
|}

== Machine Rack ==

The rack of machines and switches is counted by U, from the bottom, starting from "1".

{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5"
!"U"/Unit
!Device
|-
|22-24
|small stuff shelf
|-
|19-21
|EMPTY
|-
|18
|NEW switch1 (Linksys SRW2048 - 48 port gige)
|-
|16-17
|patch panel
|-
|11-15
|EMPTY
|-
|7-10
|pony
|-
|5-6
|rack support for pony
|-
|4
|EMPTY
|-
|1-3
|APC
|}

== Switch Ports ==
=== switch1 ===
'''Linksys 48 port gige'''

This switch is all for vlan 1 (172.30.0.0/22)

The yellow cable is the uplink to switch2

===switch2===
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5"
!Port
!Far end
|-
|Fa0/1
|Sonic DSL modem (VLAN 20)
|-
|Fa0/2
|Monkeybrains Wireless CPE (VLAN 10)
|-
|Fa0/3
|r00ter eth0 (VLAN 20)
|-
|Fa0/4
|r00ter eth1 (gateway for vlan1) (VLAN 1)
|-
|Fa0/5
|minotaur.noisebridge.net (VLAN 20)
|-
|Fa0/6
|pony.noisebridge.net (VLAN 20)
|-
|Fa0/7
|EMPTY (VLAN 1)
|-
|Fa0/8
|Linksys uplink (VLAN 1)
|-
|Gi0/1
|Linksys uplink fiber (TODO) (VLAN 1)
|}

== Network Diagram ==
OBSOLETE
[[Image:2169_network_diagram-2010-04-09.png]]

== KVM ==

There is no KVM, but there are monitors and a keyboard dedicated to the machines in the rack. You can easily recognize it because it's covered in nail polish and you can't see the keycaps. The delete key is in the upper-right corner of the keyboard, which is handy to know if you want to get into the BIOS of the machines.

= Other uplink possibilities =
* Metro fiber
** [[User:Jof|jof]] called IPN for a rough estimate for construction of fiber to 83c. The sales representative's estimate would be between 90,000USD - 100,000USD for the initial buildout.

* Sonic.net ADSL2
** We have this, woot.

* WiMax
** Currently this hasn't been very seriously researched

* SFLan

''We may have line of sight to a node if we can bounce off of a local building. This hasn't been seriously researched. We may want to try to get roof access for antennas and should talk to our very quiet neighbors.''

''I was contacted by Matt Peterson about connecting. I would be happy to do a site survey to see if you can hit the SFLAN or City wirless deployment from the Valencia Gardens development. That could get you 40Mb/s up and down. - Tim Pozar''

New Network

2013-10-04T05:53:59Z

Zzarzzur: Added links

== Status ==
Getting [[Stallion2]] up and running 
[===>_________________] 35% Complete

== New Network? ==
On 2013-10-03, the network went down.
We spent 2 hours of troubleshooting the equipment, before we managed to get a patch going from the MonkeyBrains antennae to the WiFi.
As of 17:02 2013-10-03, there is a lame D-Link router in between.

With the patch in place, and the WiFi being up regardless of whether or not any of the switches are online, I proposed we redo ALL the network infrastructure. Here's how I plan to do it.

== Logistics ==
Simply put, I want there to be 3 internal networks.
* Stallion/Minotaur
* Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers
* User Network

=== Network Information ===

==== Stallion/Minotaur ====
This network will be what it says it's for. On this network, all essential equipment will be on this network.

==== Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers ====
All the dedicated terminals will be on this network, and possibly the classrooms

==== User Network ====
The user network will be anyone that connects to the WiFi, or plugs into the Ethernet. The user network will be locked down, throttled, and filtered.

=== Steps/ToDo List ===
Y) Locate antennae connection
Y) Go up on the roof
Y) Find the antennae
Y) Follow the cord down into the space
Y) Locate it's connection to the switch
Y) Create temporary patch independent of switches for WiFi
Y) Disconnect WiFI from switch
Y) Disconnect Antennae from switch
Y) Install a temporary firewall in front of the Antennae
Y) Patch the Antennae through to the WiFi
Y) Connect a LAN Port from the firewall to the switch(To keep Ethernet lines live)
=) Equip [[Stallion2]]
=) Add Network Interfaces
Y) Add to server rack
*) Configure [[Stallion2]]
Y) Root it/Reimage
*) Install/Configure
*) DHCP
*) DNS
*) Internet Filter
*) IP router
*) Bandwidth throttler
*) Disconnect all networking except for patch
*) Down with the switches!
*) Migrate all equipment to a single rack
*) Either the one up top, or the one Pony is on
*) Route the MonkeyBrains antennae through en0 of Stallion2
*) Simply unplug and plug into a new server
*) Organize all Ethernet cables
*) Sort by where they are going to
*) Ziptie groups together
*) Label
*) Plug everything in
*) Connect all the Ethernet cables
*) Deploy [[Stallion2]]
*) Press the power button
*) TaDa!
*) Enjoy new and improved internet!

Stallion2

2013-10-04T05:52:00Z

Zzarzzur: Initial Page

== Stallion2 ==
Stallion2 was originally a rack server that was sitting underneath the networking equipment on the top rack. It was not connected to anything, not even power.
I took it down and plugged it in, Ubuntu server came up.
Tried all the usual passwords such as 'noisebridge' and other variations, nothing.
Booted into recovery, dropped to a root shell, took a look at the shadow files, found that root didn't have a password; the only user with a password was 'superq'.
As of now, I have access to it.

== Functions ==
Stallion2 is supposed to have these major functions
* DHCP server
* DNS server
* IP Routing
* Bandwidth throttler

== Hacking ==
'''DO NOT TOUCH IT''' 
'''STAY AWAY''' 
Stallion2 is going to be the most important thing on the network, without it, there will be no network. 
'''STAY AWAY!!!! '''

New Network

2013-10-04T05:40:26Z

Zzarzzur: Initial Page

== Status ==
Getting Stallion2 up and running 
[===>_________________] 35% Complete

== New Network? ==
On 2013-10-03, the network went down.
We spent 2 hours of troubleshooting the equipment, before we managed to get a patch going from the MonkeyBrains antennae to the WiFi.
As of 17:02 2013-10-03, there is a lame D-Link router in between.

With the patch in place, and the WiFi being up regardless of whether or not any of the switches are online, I proposed we redo ALL the network infrastructure. Here's how I plan to do it.

== Logistics ==
Simply put, I want there to be 3 internal networks.
* Stallion/Minotaur
* Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers
* User Network

=== Network Information ===

==== Stallion/Minotaur ====
This network will be what it says it's for. On this network, all essential equipment will be on this network.

==== Computer Terminals for Laser Cutter/3D Printers ====
All the dedicated terminals will be on this network, and possibly the classrooms

==== User Network ====
The user network will be anyone that connects to the WiFi, or plugs into the Ethernet. The user network will be locked down, throttled, and filtered.

=== Steps/ToDo List ===
Y) Locate antennae connection
Y) Go up on the roof
Y) Find the antennae
Y) Follow the cord down into the space
Y) Locate it's connection to the switch
Y) Create temporary patch independent of switches for WiFi
Y) Disconnect WiFI from switch
Y) Disconnect Antennae from switch
Y) Install a temporary firewall in front of the Antennae
Y) Patch the Antennae through to the WiFi
Y) Connect a LAN Port from the firewall to the switch(To keep Ethernet lines live)
=) Equip Stallion2
=) Add Network Interfaces
Y) Add to server rack
*) Configure Stallion2
Y) Root it/Reimage
*) Install/Configure
*) DHCP
*) DNS
*) Filter
*) Bandwidth throttler
*) Disconnect all networking except for patch
*) Down with the switches!
*) Migrate all equipment to a single rack
*) Either the one up top, or the one Pony is on
*) Route the MonkeyBrains antennae through en0 of Stallion2
*) Simply unplug and plug into a new server
*) Organize all Ethernet cables
*) Sort by where they are going to
*) Ziptie groups together
*) Label
*) Plug everything in
*) Connect all the Ethernet cables
*) Deploy Stallion2
*) Press the power button
*) TaDa!
*) Enjoy new and improved internet!

User:Zzarzzur

2013-09-08T04:26:15Z

Zzarzzur:

User:Zzarzzur

2013-05-17T04:24:45Z

Zzarzzur:

I am Omar. I'm a 15 year old with an extremely broad knowledge as noted by the people I talk to at NoiseBridge. Usually, I'm at NoiseBridge on Thursdays at around 3:30-5:30.

Makerbot

2013-05-17T04:23:37Z

Zzarzzur: Added some more info on the current status of the Bots

= The Makerbots are not working (2013-05-16) =

Some of the Makerbots are working. You have to use and older version ReplicatorG with these Makerbot Cupcakes. As of Replicator G ~version30 the newest versions are incompatible with the firmware these guys use.
ReplicatorG link: http://replicat.org/

There are three filament spools in operation now, with red, black and white ABS. Just pull out a bit of filament, guide it into the extruder of your chosen Makerbot (making sure to avoid any sharp turns), feed it through (with the nozzle heated), and print!

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG v29 software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG version 29, run it, press Generate G-Code, select the profile you will use, press Locate, and find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. It should work fine with the default profiles for a Cupcake with a Heated Build Platform (but do make the change described above). It works very well with ReplicatorG v29.

Scotch has a extruder mount made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced. Scotch is not working now, it is waiting for a new extruder nozzle.

Another bot in the space is Andrew Rutter's Super Cupcake. This one is heavily modified and should under no circumstances be used without consulting Andrew.

Tip 'O The Day:

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* You can make STL files in your browser! http://www.tinkercad.com/

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG version 2.9 for Mac doesn't work - the control panel is missing, so it heats the platform and uploads stl files but doesn't heat or control the extruder. Use 2.7 instead!

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Find the file(s) called end.gcode, and if they do not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit them to look like this (you can just add them to the end - it doesn't hurt if they are repeated):

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0 (extruder to temperature 0)
M109 S0 (heated build platform to temperature 0)
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire up the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Project Log =
Below are some early usage examples. For a more complete catalogue with more depth, visit [[Noisebridge 3D Printing Member Projects]].
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----
[[File:Bunny_and_vases.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|Tron Bunny watches over two sake carafes. The one on the left was printed before major mods to the XY axis, the one on right after. Note that the "ringing" effect is gone. [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 01/20/13 ==

Printer status
# Thing-O-Maric work with http://replicat.org/download version 0040, printing a octopus for reference.
# pp3dp plugged on laser MS Windows station, can print using Up v1.18 software. Printed some Glass frame and raspberry pi box
# Cupcake CNC not tested

Incident
# The Thing-O-Maric stoped to deliver plastic on the extruder, see octopus result

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

== 2011-04-07 ==

Over the last few days:
Centrated the Z axis quartet on Scotch. Found a bad bearing and replaced it. Shimmed the bearings into place as the wood was starting to wear. The Z axis is much improved by performing this maintenance. If the rods are quite parallel and straight, the Z stage can also be shimmed into place to reduce side to side slop.

The modified Z axis mount needed more clearance from the Z stage, so I replaced the mounting plates with a single piece of 1/8" laser cut acrylic.

I also upgraded the pinchwheel on Scotch with Gian-Pablo's old pinchwheel mounting. It's the same part, but with low-friction delrin plates and a plunger along the filament path. The old one can be rehabilitated by cutting out the same 1/8" delrin parts.

The power went out on Nutjob today. Assessing the problem tomorrow.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 03:17, 8 April 2011 (UTC)

[[category:pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

== 2013-05-16 ==

As of today, NONE of the Makerbots are functioning. I did a rough test and found this.
-) The Thing-o-Matic connects, is recognized, moves, but the nozzle doesn't heat up.
-) The right Cupcake machine is detected and registers a serial port, but Replicatorg can't connect to the firmware(Either that or the usb plug on the bot side was inverted :p) Same with the one on the desk.
-) The last time I tried to use the Type A Machine, it was detected, connected, but didn't want to start printing(This was a while ago, I didn't do extensive testing.
On a side note, there is a PP3DP Up! Printer to the right of the monitor, I've used it perfectly fine before, but upon visiting today, I found that the Z axis calibration is a little off, making it so that the nozzle is around 10-15mm above the platform, causing the plastic to curl. In the little testing I did, I have found no way to software way to recalibrate it correctly. Though if you really need to use it, light percussive maintenance can be applied. All you need to do is start printing, wait for the nozzle to start applying the plastic, then start tapping the bottom bottom of the platform lightly but with moderate force until the platform comes just into contact with the nozzle, I recommend using the raft if you do this.

These are what I've found, the wiki page hasn't been updated in two years. Hopefully someone can take a look at the problems I've listed, and take the troubleshooting further sometime during this or next week, as I usually don't appear until Thursday.

[[User:zzarzzur|zzarzzur]] 04:22, 17 May 2013 (UTC)

User:Zzarzzur

2013-04-04T05:34:43Z

Zzarzzur: Created page with "I am Omar. I'm a 15 year old with an extremely broad knowledge as noted by the people I talk to at NoiseBridge. Usually, I'm at NoiseBridge on Wednesdays at around 3:30-5:30."

I am Omar. I'm a 15 year old with an extremely broad knowledge as noted by the people I talk to at NoiseBridge. Usually, I'm at NoiseBridge on Wednesdays at around 3:30-5:30.