Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

Circuit Hacking Monday

2013-08-25T23:53:07Z

Rolfvw:

[[Category:events]]

=== What? Where? ===

[[Image:CircuitHackingMonday_EricBoyd.jpg|thumb|right|Happy hardware hackers at Circuit Hacking Monday]]

'''What''': Weekly get-together to solder cool stuff! 
     You can easily learn all of the skills you need in one session. 
     Make a project tonight, and take it home with you! 
     If you have your own project (advanced or simple), 
     bring it by, and if you would like help, you can get it! 
'''When''': 7:30pm till 10pm or so -- every Monday 
           (Early start of 3:00pm on Monday holidays.)'' 
     Most projects take about 1.5 to 2 hours 
'''Where''': Noisebridge, 2169 Mission St., San Francisco, 94114 (at 18th St., near 16th St. BART station). 
     Map: [[Getting_Here]] 
'''Who''': You! It is fun to make things in the friendly community of Noisebridge. 
     Come join us. Everyone is welcome. 
'''Cost''': Instruction is free! We ask that people pay only for the cost of the parts used -- kit prices range from $10 to $35.
 
'''Instructors''': [[User:maltman23|Mitch]], when he's in town.
 

NOTE: Sorry, but there will be no instructor present on Monday August 26! 

Learn to solder! [[User:maltman23|Mitch]] and others will bring kits to make cool, practical, intriguing, hackable things that you can bring home after you make it. Of course, you can also bring your own projects to hack.

Plenty of '''cool kits''' are available to make, including: 
*'''''TV-B-Gone''''' (turn off TVs in public places!)
*'''''"Hello My Name Is" badge''''' (you may have seen me wearing mine)
*'''''Brain Machine''''' (Meditate, Hallucinate, and Trip Out!)
*'''''Mignonette Game''''' (make your own handheld game console!)
*'''''Trippy RGB Waves''''' (interactive blinky lights!)
*'''''LEDcube''''' (animated 3D cube!)
*'''''MiniPOV''''' (write messages in the air!)
*'''''MintyBoost''''' (charge your USB enabled gadgets!)
*'''''BoArduino''''' (make your own fully functional Arduino -- for solderless breadboards!)
*'''''Diavolino''''' (make your own shield-compatible Arduino!)
*'''''Open Heart''''' (animate fun patterns in the shape of a heart!)
*'''''Atari Punk Console''''' (make cool noise from an Altoids tin!)
*'''''Drawdio''''' (make noise by drawing lines with this pencil!)
*'''''LoL Shield''''' (Lots of LEDs! for your Arduino!)
*'''''microcontroller programmer (USBtinyISP)''''' (program all your AVR family chips!)
*And more. 
More info on many of these projects: 
http://www.CornfieldElectronics.com (click on the "maker faire" tab) 
http://www.adafruit.com 
http://www.jimmieprodgers.com 
http://www.mignonette-game.com 
http://www.evilmadscientist.com 
http://analogmachines.com/

Anyone can learn to solder! Even if you have never made anything in your life, you can learn this very useful and enjoyable skill. It really is fun! [[User:maltman23|Mitch]] has taught tens of thousands of people to solder all around the world, and he can teach you, too! Add yourself to the ever increasing community!

=== Topics ===
As interest warrants:
* soldering (everything from through-hole to SMD rework)
* breadboarding
* powering your circuit (bench power supplies, ATX hacking, batteries)
* making LEDs blink and fade
* programming microcontrollers
* using AVR / Arduino / Boarduino to make circuits easier
* using oscilloscopes / multimeters to debug circuits
* reverse engineering circuits
* Designing PCBs using GEDA and EagleCAD

=== Who? ===
Everyone is welcome, regardless of experience level or age. If you have never made a circuit before and have no idea where to start, bring a few dollars ($10 to $30 to cover materials costs of a Brain Machine kit or other cool kits) and build it. Everyone gets personal attention, and everyone will learn enough to complete their project. If you have experience, please come and enjoy working on your project with others -- and share what you know!

=== Why? ===
Learn and share with others of all skill levels! You can come with an idea, or a question, or a circuit you want to hack. You can research ideas on the Internet ahead of time and come put them into practice! Or, you can learn with a large selection of easy-to-make kits that are available each week.

=== What can I bring to help? ===
No need to bring anything -- just yourself and your desire to play, learn, and/or share. We have everything you need. But if you like, you can bring: 
* Your own tools (we have all you need, but you can bring your own)
* Arduino / clones
* USB - serial dongle for your Arduino
* breadboards
* If you bring your laptop, we can set it up to program microcontrollers
* 9V or AA or AAA or other batteries (a bulk donation would be great)
* parts for your own project(s)

=== I am a blank slate! What should I do? ===
* make one of the many easy kits that are available each week.
* make an Arduino fade an RGB LED in varying color patterns.
* make a microcontroller illuminate a 3x3 LED matrix in varying shapes.
* reverse engineer something you're curious about.
* come to Noisebridge and brainstorm!

Circuit Hacking Monday

2013-08-17T09:16:05Z

Rolfvw: remove old date reference

[[Category:events]]

=== What? Where? ===

[[Image:CircuitHackingMonday_EricBoyd.jpg|thumb|right|Happy hardware hackers at Circuit Hacking Monday]]

'''What''': Weekly get-together to solder cool stuff! 
     You can easily learn all of the skills you need in one session. 
     Make a project tonight, and take it home with you! 
     If you have your own project (advanced or simple), 
     bring it by, and if you would like help, you can get it! 
'''When''': 7:30pm till 10pm or so -- every Monday 
           (Early start of 3:00pm on Monday holidays.)'' 
     Most projects take about 1.5 to 2 hours 
'''Where''': Noisebridge, 2169 Mission St., San Francisco, 94114 (at 18th St., near 16th St. BART station). 
     Map: [[Getting_Here]] 
'''Who''': You! It is fun to make things in the friendly community of Noisebridge. 
     Come join us. Everyone is welcome. 
'''Cost''': Instruction is free! We ask that people pay only for the cost of the parts used -- kit prices range from $10 to $35.
 
'''Instructors''': [[User:maltman23|Mitch]], when he's in town.
 

Learn to solder! [[User:maltman23|Mitch]] and others will bring kits to make cool, practical, intriguing, hackable things that you can bring home after you make it. Of course, you can also bring your own projects to hack.

Plenty of '''cool kits''' are available to make, including: 
*'''''TV-B-Gone''''' (turn off TVs in public places!)
*'''''"Hello My Name Is" badge''''' (you may have seen me wearing mine)
*'''''Brain Machine''''' (Meditate, Hallucinate, and Trip Out!)
*'''''Mignonette Game''''' (make your own handheld game console!)
*'''''Trippy RGB Waves''''' (interactive blinky lights!)
*'''''LEDcube''''' (animated 3D cube!)
*'''''MiniPOV''''' (write messages in the air!)
*'''''MintyBoost''''' (charge your USB enabled gadgets!)
*'''''BoArduino''''' (make your own fully functional Arduino -- for solderless breadboards!)
*'''''Diavolino''''' (make your own shield-compatible Arduino!)
*'''''Open Heart''''' (animate fun patterns in the shape of a heart!)
*'''''Atari Punk Console''''' (make cool noise from an Altoids tin!)
*'''''Drawdio''''' (make noise by drawing lines with this pencil!)
*'''''LoL Shield''''' (Lots of LEDs! for your Arduino!)
*'''''microcontroller programmer (USBtinyISP)''''' (program all your AVR family chips!)
*And more. 
More info on many of these projects: 
http://www.CornfieldElectronics.com (click on the "maker faire" tab) 
http://www.adafruit.com 
http://www.jimmieprodgers.com 
http://www.mignonette-game.com 
http://www.evilmadscientist.com 
http://analogmachines.com/

Anyone can learn to solder! Even if you have never made anything in your life, you can learn this very useful and enjoyable skill. It really is fun! [[User:maltman23|Mitch]] has taught tens of thousands of people to solder all around the world, and he can teach you, too! Add yourself to the ever increasing community!

=== Topics ===
As interest warrants:
* soldering (everything from through-hole to SMD rework)
* breadboarding
* powering your circuit (bench power supplies, ATX hacking, batteries)
* making LEDs blink and fade
* programming microcontrollers
* using AVR / Arduino / Boarduino to make circuits easier
* using oscilloscopes / multimeters to debug circuits
* reverse engineering circuits
* Designing PCBs using GEDA and EagleCAD

=== Who? ===
Everyone is welcome, regardless of experience level or age. If you have never made a circuit before and have no idea where to start, bring a few dollars ($10 to $30 to cover materials costs of a Brain Machine kit or other cool kits) and build it. Everyone gets personal attention, and everyone will learn enough to complete their project. If you have experience, please come and enjoy working on your project with others -- and share what you know!

=== Why? ===
Learn and share with others of all skill levels! You can come with an idea, or a question, or a circuit you want to hack. You can research ideas on the Internet ahead of time and come put them into practice! Or, you can learn with a large selection of easy-to-make kits that are available each week.

=== What can I bring to help? ===
No need to bring anything -- just yourself and your desire to play, learn, and/or share. We have everything you need. But if you like, you can bring: 
* Your own tools (we have all you need, but you can bring your own)
* Arduino / clones
* USB - serial dongle for your Arduino
* breadboards
* If you bring your laptop, we can set it up to program microcontrollers
* 9V or AA or AAA or other batteries (a bulk donation would be great)
* parts for your own project(s)

=== I am a blank slate! What should I do? ===
* make one of the many easy kits that are available each week.
* make an Arduino fade an RGB LED in varying color patterns.
* make a microcontroller illuminate a 3x3 LED matrix in varying shapes.
* reverse engineer something you're curious about.
* come to Noisebridge and brainstorm!

Category:Events

2013-05-08T23:41:47Z

Rolfvw: /* Recurring Events edit */

Official, Semi-Official, one-off and other events at the Noisebridge space.

=Event Calendar=
Not all events make it onto this calendarMany events only make it to the Discussion or Announcements [[Mailinglist | mailing lists]], [[IRC]] or in person at [[:Category:Meeting_Notes | Tuesday meetings]]. Best of all, Noisebridge is about people getting together at the space in San Francisco to do stuff..like in person. Some events just happen. Pay attention!

If you'd like to host an event yourself, we recommend involving at least one Noisebridge member, and have advice on [[Hosting_an_Event|hosting an event]] at Noisebridge.

View the [https://www.google.com/calendar/embed?src=1uesj915rces4cbmcr8j3sg8t0%40group.calendar.google.com&ctz=America/Los_Angeles Google Calendar].

To post Google Calendar entries for your event or to gain access to do so for yourself, ask on the noisebridge-discuss mailing list.
<onlyinclude>
=== Upcoming Events [https://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Category:Events&action=edit&section=2 edit] ===



* '''Thursday, May 9, 7:30 pm''': [[Solving problems with software: how to manage an effective software project ]] Sam Ovens shares lessons learned from his experience effectively solving problems with software utilizing minimal resources through customer interviews and rapid iteration.
* '''Saturday, May 18, 6:00 pm''': [[Maker|Maker Faire Afterparty]], giving you as much fun as possible.
* '''Saturday, October 19, 7.15 pm''': [[Noisebridge Lit Crawl event]], an attempt at integrating Noisebridge into the semi-organized chaos that is the San Francisco Lit Crawl

=== Recurring Events [https://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Category:Events&action=edit&section=3 edit] ===




==== Monday ====
* 19:00 - 21:00 [[PWN|Post-Waste Nexus]] - Meets in Turing. Join in to create a not-for-profit cooperative (from nothingness!) that utilizes consensus decision making to address the problems of e-waste. We intend to give out computers to our communities with free and open source software, and responsibly recycle the rest. Meets every Monday EXCEPT for the 3rd Monday (Technoactivism Mondays).
* '''19:30 - 22:00 [[Circuit Hacking Mondays]]''' - Learn to solder! And make cool things with electronics. [[User:maltman23|Mitch]], Rolf, [[User:Miloh|Miloh]], and others will bring kits to make cool, hackable things for all skill levels that you can bring home after you make them! Bring your own projects to hack! Bring things to fix! All ages. All welcome!
* '''19:00 - 22:00 [[Gamebridge|Gamebridge Unityversity]]''' Unity3D Game Development mentoring group is back now that [[Code Hero]] is in alpha.

* '''20:00 - 22:00 [[Frontend Web Development]]''' - Learn HTML/CSS/JS. We'll cover the basics and then go in-depth on different topics every week. Recap of last week's material starts at '''19:30'''.
* [[House_Keeping#Trash_and_Recycling|Take Out the Trash Night]]

==== Tuesday ====
* 15:00 - 16:30 [[Linux System Administration class]] meets in the Turing classroom. This is a change of format from the [[Linux System Administration Study Group]] An instructor presents a topic of Linux system administration. You can follow along if you bring your own Linux computer. Command-line skills are assumed. The focus is primarily on server systems, less on workstation problems.
* 16:30 [[Intro to Databases]] Is on temporary hiatus as we just had our final please inquire via email using the link to the page(s) Database programming and design using MySQL and others. Every Tuesday in Turing classroom.

* 18:00 - 22:00 [[Advanced Python]] Slaying the web with Python 2.7 & 3.3. Instructed by Liz and Kellan in Church.
* 18:00 - 20:00 '''*ix''' [[Linux.BSD.UNIX Open Learning and Hacking]] Learning by doing in Linux/OpenBSD/FreeBSD/Unix/Others in Turing.
* '''19:00 - 21:00 [[Backend web dev in Ruby on Rails]]''' - Seminar and workshop for learning everything about Ruby, Rails, and web application development.
* '''19:00 - 21:00 [[Light Patterns with LEDs and Arduino]]''' - Learn how to make light dance and do your bidding! We will make Arduino sketches to control multicolor LED pixels.

* '''20:00 [[Meetings|Noisebridge Weekly Meeting]]''' - Introducing new people and events to the space, general discussion, and decision making.

==== Wednesday ====

* 18:00 - 20:00 [[Linux & BSDiscussion|Linux/BSDiscussion and Problem Solving]] - Linux/BSD meetup in the Turing classroom.
* 19:00 - 20:30 [[DreamTeam| Dream Team Neuro Hackery]] - EEG & sleep research / general interest neuroscience discussion - meeting in the Hackatorium.
* 19:00 - 21:00 [[PyClass]] - Intro to Python 7-9 in Church Classroom. Next Class starts on May 1, 2013.
* 19:30 - 22:00 [[BACE Timebank]] (2nd Wednesdays of the month) Next meeting in the Library Wed May 8th, 8pm - Help organize community mutual aid by trading in equal time credits To find out more and join go to [http://sfbace.org sfbace.org].
* 20:00 - 22:00 [[Noise~_Wednesday | Noise~ Wed]] - Graphical media programming with Max/MSP/Jitter

==== Thursday ====
* [[House_Keeping#Trash_and_Recycling|Trash Night]] - Take out the trash for Friday morning!
* 19:00 [https://tahoe-lafs.org/trac/tahoe-lafs/wiki Tahoe LAUGHS] Help build freedom Meetup this week: 2013-01-10!!
* 19:00 [[Tastebridge]] / [[Vegan Hacker]] Monthly Food Hacking, last Thursday of every month, 7pm http://www.veganhackersf.com
* 19:00 - 22:00 [[3D Thursday]] Weekly meetup at Noisebridge focusing on 3D Printers, CNC machines, FabLabs, and replicating machines of all kinds.


* 20:00 [[Frontend_Web_Development#Lab|Frontend Web Development Lab]] - Understand by doing! A recap of Monday's lecture in workshop form - and a good time for one-on-one help with the material.

==== Friday ====

==== Saturday ====

* 10:15 - 12:10 [[Juggling with Judy!]]
* 14:00 - 16:30 [[Drawing as Seeing]] in Turing. Hack your brain; learn to see; make purty pictures.
* 12:00 - 18:00 '''[[modular|Modular and Analog Synth Workshop]]''' Learn the basics of analog synthesis on a modular synth with Douglas. workshop will meet in the church. 1st workshop sat may 4th

==== Sunday ====
* 12:30 - 19:30 [[Dungeons and Dragons]] in Church, not currently looking for new players.
* 13:00 Lock Sport Collaboration: Come learn how to pick locks with the SF Bay Area chapter of TOOOL
* 14:00 - 22:00 [[World of Darkness]] Looking to run a biweekly game at Noisebridge. Talk with Melissa if interested
* 15:00 [[Go]] - Playing of the Go board game. On nice days we often take the boards to Dolores Park and play there.
*16:00 [[Elements_of_Image_Making]] Bi-Weekly Analogue and DIY film making meetup/hangout/nerdout
* 18:00 [[Plan 9]] class

</onlyinclude>

=== Orphaned Events ===
These events appear to be dormant or extinct.

* WED 20:00 - 22:00 [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/zine ZinesFromOuterSpace] - A biweekly (once every 2 weeks or twice a month) meetup for zinesters / printing hackers / DIY publishers, and brainstorming session for the next chapter of [[zine | ZiP]]. Next meeting is 1/30/13, followed by another in mid-Feb (TBA).
* THU 19:30 [[Machine_Learning|Machine Learning]] come in and learn about statistical learning techniques.
* THU 18:00 - 21:00 '''[[Privacy Bay]]''' - A monthly meetup for Bay Area folks interested in privacy. Meets in Church on the last Thursday of the month.
* FRI 19:00 - 21:00 [[Anarchy_101|Anarchy 101]] - a class/seminar on what anarchy is and is not, and how it impacts us as individuals and as discrete groups.
* SUN 13:00 [[Songbridge]]: (Bi-monthly) Learn how to make and record music with a computerWe cover midi and vst as well as multi-track recordingBring your laptop.
* SUN 14:00 [http://baha.bitrot.info/ Bay Area Hacker's Association - security meeting] (2nd Sundays)

=== Proposed Future Events and Classes ===
:'''(TBD)''': [[Sound Science]] A potential monthly lecture/demonstration series on the little known science behind sound reproductionTopics to include: Transducer Physics(speakers and mics), Room Acoustics, Signal Path and Cabling,Loudspeaker design 101, Music Production Tips for Big Sound, and How to make a small system sound HUGEEach session to include hands on projects like making speakers from stuff lying around, Non-Newtonian bass monsters, and ez speaker mods for anyoneIf interested contact the new guy-> MattLong8 at gmail dot com, 805 four five three - six zero nine seven
:'''(TBD)''': [[Modular Synthesis]] a bi-weekly (or monthly) group devoted to modular synthesizers> workshop will include modular sound synthesis styles and techniques, a study of different modules and their functions, ie voltage controlled oscillator, voltage controlled filter, low frequency oscillator, envelope generator ect and how these modules interact with each other, what control voltage and triggers are..... as well as one on one time for each student with the modular, which is a 60 space large format Moog style modular synthesizer with big knobs and 1/4 jacks including performance and other awesomeness by Douglas. contact Douglas at greenshoos at gmail dotcom
:'''(TBD)''': [[VideoHacking]] a weekly video/video art devoted hacker group, including experiments in the 3D vr realm...if interested contact julialc4@gmail.com
:Wednesdays at 21:00 [[Brewing Bridge]] - Malakkar Proposal: Learn how to make your drinks fun AND antibacterial, using yeastThis will be recurring if enough interest or need is presentAssociated items - what to do with brewing leftovers, and brewers sample hour, etc.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Fie: Failure is Eminent]] - [[User:MedianMajik|James]] wants to start a System Recovery class that will meet either bi-monthly or weekly for a couple hours to try various backup and recovery methods on drives and data.
:'''(TBD)''': [[101 Introduction to Linux]] - [[User:MedianMajik|James]] wants to start a 101 Introduction to Linux class where people can ask whatever questions they want and get them answered in 60 to 90 minutes Church would be the optimal location Looking for teachers.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Probability]] - Weekly probability study group based on [http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/electrical-engineering-and-computer-science/6-041-probabilistic-systems-analysis-and-applied-probability-spring-2006/related-resources/ Fundamentals of Applied Probability Theory] by Al Drake
:'''(TBD)''': [[Mandarin Corner|Mandarin]] - Learn or practice Mandarin, all levels. Also currently on hiatus. Get on the mailing list.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Movie Night!]] - [[User:ThOMG|Thom]] wants to build community through nerdy sci-fi! (+Bill+Ted+Excellence++) (how about a Friday hacker movie night? -[[User:Carl|Carl]])
:'''(TBD)''': [[Introduction to the AVR Microcontroller]] - [[User:Mightyohm|Jeff]] and [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]] are planning an introductory class for people wanting to make cool projects with AVRs.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Basic Chemistry Lab Techniques]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Cuddle Puddle for the Economy]] - Stress-hacking with informal massage exchange.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Milk and Cookies]] - Come read your favorite selections out loudWith Milk and Cookies (and yeah, probably beer too).
:'''(TBD)''': [[Processing Workshop 2]] - [[User:Scmurray|Scott]] is interested in teaching this, and is busy thinking about what, where, when, why, and how.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Hack your Hardware]] -- We call BS on "no user-serviceable parts inside"
:'''(TBD)''': [[Homebrew Instruction Class]] - The Wort (pt 1/3)
:'''(TBD)''': [[Trip to Shooting Range]] - Field trip to a shooting range, to shoot guns Express interest at [[Trip to Shooting Range]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Surface Mount Soldering Workshop]] - Learn how to solder cicuits with small surface mount parts [[User:maltman23|Mitch Altman]] and Martin Bogomolni and others will show their tricks [[User:maltman23|Mitch]] will bring hackable kits that uses surface mounts for you to solder<-YES!(mattlong8 at gmail dot com)
:'''(TBD)''' - [[Locksport and Lockpicking]]
:'''(TBD)''' - [[Version control tutorial]]
:'''(TBD)''' - [[Foreign language learning for rocket scientists]] - I'm near-native (fool people when I try) in (French and) Japanese, and a pro trans/terpreter and will share my shortcuts (skill-order, vocab, speed/articulation, translation≅grammar)No expertise on tonal languages yet..so if you know how to remember tones or how tone-sandhi interacts with speed and/or how nuances of speaker attitude are expressed in them (what we do with rythm/inflection/sentence-intonation and stress in Eng., and with particles and ??? in e.gCantonese) please chime in or call me (415-608-0564) so I can convey your wisdom[also looking for a from-scratch Arabic partner]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Getting started with Arduino]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Distributed Databases]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Node.js Beginners Session]] - Interested in learning about Node.js? I amMaybe these guys want to teach it: http://www.meetup.com/Joyent-Cloud-User-Group/events/81311542/

:'''(TBD)''': [[Scrum Club]] - I though I'd test the waters and see if anyone was interested in a noisebridge scrum club details are here http://scrumclub.org/scrum-clubs/ if inturested hit me up twitter: @theabcasian, facebook: http://www.facebook.com/theabcasian
:'''(TBD)''': [[CNC Mill Workshop]] - Who wants to make stuff on the [[MaxNCMill]]?
:'''(TBD)''': [[Math & Science Help]] - If you would like some math, science or engineering help, I'm down to lend a hand.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Cyborg Group|Cyborg Group / Sensebridge]] - Work on projects like artificial senses Someone needs to lead this!
:'''(TBD)''': [[OpenEEG]] - Brain techHas historically met on Sundays, at the behest of interested parties.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Programming_for_Poets | Programming for Poets]] - Gentle intro to programming using Processing
:'''(TBD)''': [[World Builders & Simgineers]] - Work together to create a beautiful & open virtual world & platform.
:'''(TBD)''': [[PlunderBridge]] - Metal detecting, detector technology & treasure hunting expeditions.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Ruby Mining]] - Ruby on Rails basics, interactive working group
:'''(TBD)''': [[MoinMoin Wiki]] - MoinMoin Wiki (details see there)
:'''(TBD)''': [[Noisebridge Fundraiser 2013]]

= Past Events =
===2012===
* '''December 20, Thursday, 20:00 - 22:00 - [[5MoF|5 Minutes of Fame]]''' - Following up on its triumphant return in November, 5MoF is back with another showcase of lightning talks & other good stuff, with your host Sir Danny O'Brien! Details TBA
*'''Tuesday Feb14th, 18:00 to 20:00''' ZiP MegaZine releases its inaugural issue with '''My Noisy Valentine''' Zine Release Microparty in the Noisebridge cafeFor more info follow [[zine | this]] link.
* '''Wednesday, Jan30, 20:00-22:00''' [[zine|ZiP]] meeting for zine-makers & others with an interest in printing & self-publishingThe meeting 1/30/13 is our first since mid-2012We plan to hold them regularly from now on at this time (Wednesday 8pm)This meeting will be informal & will probably take place in the printing/lasercutter area of the hackerspace.

===2011===

* '''September 11th 14:00 to 17:00''' - The San Francisco Chapter of the Open Organisation Of Lockpickers and Bay Area Hacker's Association present a joint meeting on [https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Locksport locksport]
*'''August 4, 7PM, Thursday''' - [http://zeidman.net Bob Zeidman] will be giving a talk on video games and intellectual property, hosted by TheMADEHe will also speak about IP infringement cases.
*'''August 9, 6:30PM, Tuesday''' - [http://www.meetup.com/makesf/events/26413241/ Make:SF] - Chris Jefferies will speak about the wireless sensor kit he is developing and we are bringing back our all star soldering kits.

* '''April 13th, 19:00''' - Kombucha fermentation class with [[BioBridge]]
*'''April 7th, 20:00''' - [[In-Depth|Noisebridge: In-Depth]] Our monthly lecture and round tableThis month's speaker will be Aragorn! his lecture will be "Anarchism & technology: An unbridgeable chasm"
*'''April 4th, 20:00''' - Camp KDE PartyCome and meet part of the KDE North America community and get a quick overview of this year's [http://camp.kde.org/ Camp KDE] conferenceThere will be beer
*'''April 3rd, 16:00''' - NoiseCaching: Meet-up to build some geocaches, and talk about making geocoinsThen we'll head out to find some local caches and place caches we made[http://www.geocaching.com More info about Geocaching here]
* '''March 20th, 19:00''' [[Hack Politics]] meetup -- the first meetup to figure out how we in the hacker community can effectively mobilize and create meaningful change in these interesting times
* '''March 12th, 12:00-18:00 - Noisebridge Hackathon!''' Second Saturday Hackathon is a casual monthly event dedicated to working on the space or relevant projects and building community This is a great time to get feedback or help on any projects you have been considering that center around the space, culture, and infrastructure of Noisebridge You can also help with existing projects and find out ways to get involved.
* '''March 10, Thursday, 19:00 - Group Grammar Clinic''' - Church Classroom - Donations gladly accepted - A clinic for grammar and writing evaluationPlease bring your web/social or technical writing for us to evaluateBring your laptop as well Collaboration groupware possibly provided(Please suggest groupware software to use if you wish)Constructive feedback from other group members is encouraged so that this clinic is a group process- Facilitator: [[User:Owen|Owen]] (opietro@yahoo.com)
* '''March 9th, 20:00''' - Ferment and filter a mash! [[fermentation logs]]

===2010===
* '''Sunday, August 22, 19:00 CLUB-MATE DROPOFF AND TASTING PARTY''' Nick Farr will be in town to drop off Club-Mate ordered by San Franciscans!
* '''June 5th, 12:00-19:00 - [[NoiseBridgeRehab]]''' - Help make the space more usable and accessible! Noisebridge needs your help!
* '''June 5th, 16:00-20:00 - [[Science For Juggalos]]''' - Science Fair in front of the Warfield Theater teaching magnetism to Juggalos
* '''June 6th, 15:00 - [[AVC Meetup]]''' - Entrepreneurial bonding & matchmaking
* '''June 9th, 21:00 - Your liver supports Noisebridge''' - Come to Elixir @ 16th & Guerrero anytime after 21:00 and drink, drink, drink! 50% of tips go to Noisebridge
* '''February 27th, 20:00 - [[Hacker EPROM]]''' - Noisebridge's first prom! Nice tie and a (robot) date requiredWe will have a DJ and punch.
* '''February 24th, 19:00, Wednesday - Joris Peels, of [http://www.shapeways.com Shapeways]''', and expert on 3D printing, will give a [[ShaperwaysPresentation | talk and demonstration]] at Noisebridge!.
* '''February 23rd, 18:00 - Cleaning day''' - Come and help clean Noisebridge, because everyone loves a clean hack space.
* '''February 12th, 21:00 - visit from Steve Jackson'''Game designer [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steve_Jackson_%28US_game_designer%29 Steve Jackson], founder of Steve Jackson Games, will visit Noisebridge.
* '''January 27th, 18:00-20:00 - [[beatrixjar event|Circuit Bending Workshop]]''' - [http://www.beatrixjar.com/ Beatrix*JAR] (contact [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] for more info)
* '''January 27th, 20:00-22:00 - [[beatrixjar event|Circuit Bending Performance]]''' - [http://www.beatrixjar.com/ Beatrix*JAR] - "Celebrate a night of new sound that will change your idea of music forever!"
* '''January 25th, 19:30 - [[Bag Porn]]''' - What's in your bag?
* '''January 20th, 19:00-21:00 - [http://groups.google.com/group/bacat/about Bay Categories & Types]''' - Categories, monoids, monads, functors and more! Held in the Alonzo Church classroom.
* '''January 20th, 19:00 - [[User Experience Book Club SF]]''' - Our book this month is "A Theory of Fun for Game Design" by Raph Koster - http://is.gd/6sEqw (meets in Turing)
* '''January 21st, 20:00 - [[Five Minutes of Fame]]''' - Monthly set of lightning talks on diverse topics
* '''January 22nd, 17:00 - [[CleaningParty| Cleaning Party]]''' - Come help clean up Noisebridge! Awsum fun!
* ...January 14th,16th, and 17th 1:00- ??? Build Out day for kitchen/bathroom/laundry bring yourself and a good attitude, learn a few things as well
* '''January 15th, 18:00 - [[CNC_Mill_Workshop]]''' - Learn to use the CNC mill for 2D engraving and circuit board routing
* Thursdays 17:00 [[ASL Group|American Sign Language]] - Learn how to talk without using your voice (or just come chat in ASL)[http://whenisgood.net/noisebridge/asl/generic click to reschedule]

===2009===
* '''November 18th, 19:30''' - [[Dorkbot_2009_11_18|Dorkbot]]
* '''November 19th, 18:00''' - [[Mesh meetup]]
* '''November 19th, 20:00''' - [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
* '''November 20th, 18:00''' - Loud Objects [http://www.flickr.com/photos/createdigitalmedia/3428249036/ Noise Toy workshop].
* '''November 20th, 20:00''' - Performance by [http://www.loudobjects.com/ Loud Objects], (featuring Tristan Perich and Lesley Flanigan) and [http://www.myspace.com/jibkidder Jib Kidder].
:'''2009-11-05''' - [http://www.server-sky.com/ Server Sky presentation: Internet and Computation in Orbit] by Keith Lofstrom
:'''2009-11-05''' - [[Mesh meetup]]
:'''2009-11-02''' - [[French]] book club meeting to discuss [http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/2842612892/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance Une Si Longue Lettre]
: ''' October 1st, 18:00''' - [[Wireless_Mesh_Network_Meetup | Mesh wireless meetup]]
: ''' October 1st, 19:00''' - [http://groups.google.com/group/bacat Bay Area Categories and Types]
: '''2009-10-03''' [[Year 1 Open Hacker House]]
:'''Friday''': [[CrazyCryptoNight]] - Discussion of cryptography for beginners through experts6-???
:'''Sunday''' : [[OpenEEG | OpenEEG Hacking]] Sundays, at 3-5pm.
:'''Monday''': [[German]] - Learn German, all levels7pm beginners, 8pm advancedRSVP 24 hours in advance for the benefit of the instructorEvents ran May-November 2009Currently on Thursdays at 8Get on the mailing list.
:'''Tuesday''': [[Haskell/Haschool]] - Learn Haskell with Jason Dusek 6PM - 7:30PM, from May until we're all experts.
:'''Wednesday''': [[Adobe_Lightroom|Adobe Lightroom]] - Become a more organized photographerWeekly class (mostly held off site).
:'''Thursday''': [[Professional VFX Compositing With Adobe After Effects]] - Taught by [[User:SFSlim|Aaron Muszalski]]7:30PM - 10PM, most Thursdays in May & June & ? (click through dammit)
:'''2009-09-17''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] 3D Edition
:'''2009-09-17''': [[Wireless Mesh Network Meetup | Mesh wireless meetup]]
:'''2009-08-20''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] One Dee Edition
:'''2009-07-16''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] Zero Dee
:'''2009-07-02 - 2009-07-05''': [http://toorcamp.org Toorcamp]
:'''2009-07-01''': Noisedroid meeting to discuss location logging on Android platform (and other stuff too, I'm sure)
:'''2009-06-30''': [[Powerbocking Class|Powerbocking class]]
:'''2009-06-30''': "Suing Telemarketers for Fun and Profit" (Toorcamp talk preview)
:'''2009-06-28''': "Meditation for Hackers" (Toorcamp workshop preview)
:'''2009-06-18''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
:'''2009-06-15''': [[Eagle Workshop]] Session two of the Eagle CAD workshop.
:'''2009-06-13''': [[RoboGames 2009]] Noisebridge had a booth staffed by vounteers, great fun!
:'''2009-05-21''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
:'''2009-04-27''': [[EagleCAD workshop]] -- learn to use this CAD tool for printed circuit board design
:'''2009-04-16''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] April showers & flowers edition
:'''2009-04-11''': [[RFID Hacking]] weekend workshop (this event moved from the original March date)
:'''2009-04-05''': [[First aid and CPR class]] Learning how to not only not die, but also reduce scarring!
:'''2009-04-03''': [[Sudo pop]] 2PM and onMaking the first batch of a Noisebridge label yerba mate-niated rootbrew, gratis and DIY
:'''2009-03-26''': [[OpenEEG | OpenEEG Hacking]] first meet up for this new group: 8 pm
:'''2009-03-19''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
:'''2009-03-12''': [[OpenBTS and GSM]] talk by David Burgess
:'''2009-02-14''': [[Open Heart Workshop]] Valentine's Day blinkyheart soldering party!
:'''2009-02-13''': [[Time-t_Party|<tt>time_t</tt> Party]] to celebrate 1,234,567,890 since the Unix epoch.
:'''2009-02-09''': [[Spanish learning at 8:30]]
:'''2009-02-05''': [[PGP Key Workshop]]
:'''2009-01-31''': [[Locksport and Lockpicking]]

===2008===
:'''2008-12-27''': [[25C3]] Chaos Computer Congress in Berlin
:'''2008-12-20 & 21''': [[Creme Brulee]] Workshop on creating a french dessert, with bonus propane torch.
:'''2008-12-17 20:00''': [[Machine Learning]] Birds-of-a-feather
:'''2008-11-24''': [[Circuit Hacking Monday]] circuit design workshop
:'''2008-11-21, 7pm''':[[Milk and Cookies]] -- [[User:Dmolnar|David Molnar]] hosts Milk and Cookies at 83CBring a short 5-7minute thing to read to othersBring a potluck cookie/snack/drink if you likeDavid will bring milk and cookies.
:'''2008-11-17, 7:30pm''': [[Basic Bicycle Maintain]] - [[User:rubin110|Rubin]] and [[User:rigel|rigel]] hate it when we see a bike that isn't maintainedScreechy chains and clacking derailleur can go to hellBasic bike tune up, sharing the smarts on simple things you can do at home to make your ride suck a whole lot less.
:'''2008-11-16, 5:00pm''': [[RepRap Soldering Party]] - help assemble RepRap! RSVPs required on wiki! [[User:Adi|adi]]
:'''2008-11-16, 3:00pm''': [[Oscilloscopes]] - Learn how to use this versatile tool to test electronic circuits Maximum 6 slots, please sign up ahead of time! [[User:dstaff|dstaff]]
:'''2008-10-31''': [[Halloween Open House]] - NoiseBridge's own [[PPPC]] threw an awesome open house/halloween galaPost pictures if you got 'em!
:'''2008-10-25''': [[Soldering Workshop]] and Pumpkin Hackin' - Learn to solder for total newbies (or learn to solder better!), including surface mountAdditionally, carve your halloween pumpkins and enjoy some experimental pumpkin pie and/or soup.
:'''2008-10-07''': (tuesday before meeting) - Etch a circuit boardI'll be trying a photo resist etching and a basic printed mask etchingThis is step 1/3 for a project called "annoying USB thingie" which will execute pre-defined keystrokes by sneaking a tiny USB dongle onto a victim^h^h^h^h^h buddy's computer.
:'''2008-09-13''': [[Processing Workshop]] — Learn this very easy-to-use programming language! - [[Processing Workshop Report]]
:'''2008-02-16''': [[Brain Machine Workshop|Brain Machine Making Workshop]]: Our first hardware sprint!

[[Category:Top level]]

Maker Faire 2013

2013-05-05T21:14:30Z

Rolfvw: /* Volunteer Sign-up And Time Scheduling! */

We are organizing our presence at Maker Faire 2013!

'''Maker Faire''' 
May 18 & 19, 2013 
Saturday 10am – 8pm 
Sunday 10am – 6pm 

see [http://makerfaire.com/ Maker Faire] for more info

 
Also note, Noisebridge is organizing an "afterparty" May 18, 6pm. See this page: 
[[Maker|2013 MakerFaire Afterparty]] 

 
[[Category:Events]]
[[File:Noisebridge-makerfaire2012.jpg|right|thumb|Map of where the Noisebridge booth is]]
== Noisebridge booth ==
 
[http://makerfaire.com/bayarea/2013/] is May 18 and 19 at the San Mateo County Expo Center. If you'd like to help set up/run the booth this year, please add your contact info below. NB should be getting several free passes for volunteers who work at least a 4-hour shift. First come, first served! 
 

====Projects/Items Displayed in the Booth====

I think we should put some focus into our set-up and make our booth look really amazing this year!

'''Requirements:'''

====Other Items to Bring====
* NB flyers
* NB stickers
* NB t-shirts?
* 15d printer! they are new and attract a lot of attention!
* the [[RoboConfessional]] Especially set up to hear allow the automat confession of sins from faire goers. Also serving as infoshopbot.
* [https://sudoroom.org/wiki/page/Sudomate sudomate] (5 gallons) Courtesy Max Klein of Sudo room

== Volunteer Sign-up And Time Scheduling!==
Maker Faire is a huge event with more than 100,000 people expected to attend. 
In case you have never been, or have never worked a booth at the Faire, this
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=39xX4xi0Uh8 video]
from our friends at Dangerous Prototypes is a nice introduction.
 

Then, after adding your name and time slot, please email me (neurofog AT gmail DOT com) as soon as you can with the following information:
1) The name (first and last) you want to give to the Maker Faire people when you arrive for your free "credentials" (as they're calling the passes for volunteers).
2) When you want to start working your 4 hour shift.

Folks who want to help staff the booth:

====Education Day, Thursday May 16th====
(Note: Currently, Noisebridge is not planning to be part of Education Day. If someone would like to do this, please enter your name here!)

====Setup Friday May 17th====
Setup times for the venue: 10am-8pm
 

12pm - 4pm: Rolf W - will be here for booth setup 
12pm - 4pm: John E - some flexibility for schedule, available.

====Set-up Saturday May 18th====
Set-up times: Saturday, May 18 7:30 a.m. – 10:00 a.m. 

====Event Saturday May 18th====
Saturday, May 18 10:00am - 8:00pm 

9am - 11am: Rolf W - setup & general booth duty 
9am - 4pm: John E - Setup & general booth duty

====Event Sunday May 19th====
Sunday, May 19 10:00am - 6:00pm 

Dan Cote terminationshok@gmail.com 
Tayopa Mogilner tayopa@gmail.com (as early as I can get a ride in. I am assuming it's 9:00am- and at least four hours (happily more if needed)). 
John E: 12:00PM - whenever Most likely until booth takedown at night.

====Take down Sunday May 19th====
''If you have a car that can transport projects, please state so''

==Members with Booths at Maker Faire==
"Going to Maker Faire with another group? Let us know where you'll be!"
 
Rock The Bike 
Type A Machines

BioBoard/Documentation/Temperature

2012-05-23T07:38:59Z

Rolfvw: /* Interfacing and measuring */

=Introduction to temperature measurements=

We are all familiar with the classic simple analog thermometer - the one with the resevoir of mercury or alcohol at the bottom. Unfortunately it is not very easy to convert the (optical) readings from this into a digital format so that we can datalog the information from our experiments. But with the Arduino we can take an analog ''electrical'' signal and turn it into a digital one that we can use. We have a number of choices so we need to choose the best ones for the BioBoard, where we'll be doing measurements on biological systems so the temperature range is generally the same as the one for liquid water. We want inexpensive, readily available, sensors that are easy to implement with the Arduino - and have the appropriate range, precision, and accuracy.

Some of the basic types of electronic temperature sensors include:
*thermocouple - excellent for very wide temperature ranges, up to 2300°C
*resistance temperature detector (RTD) - used up to 600°C, often for industrial applications
*thermistor - generally limited to <150°C, but inexpensive
*digital temperature sensor (DTS) - the output is linearly proportional to the temperature
[[File:Thermometer sizes.jpg|200px|thumb|right|relative sizes of the two sensors]]

The thermocouple may be seem to be the most versatile - the individual sensors can be quite inexpensive (but to make your own can mean buying enough materials for many probes) and the range large - but the millivolt output requires an amplifier (~$18) to make them compatible with the Arduino, and they have a greater range than we need. RTDs are becoming increasingly common for some applications but require a bridge circuit, and are not as inexpensive or commonly available as we would like. We chose to focus on ''both'' the thermistor and the DTS because they cover the temperature range of choice well, they are inexpensive, and they can be implemented on the Arduino easily - you get two choices, just in case you have a preference, or one is more easily available than the other. The photo shows the 2 sensors that we interfaced (the DTS is the 3 wire one), but note that the digital sensor also comes in a smaller surface mount configuration, and thermistors can be as small as a grain of sand.

=Building a thermometer=

Since your temperature probe will be exposed to moisture or liquid water, it is best to encase it in a waterproof sheath - a good way to do it might be to place it in a plastic tube and seal both the thermistor/DTS end and the wires coming out the far end with silicone aquarium sealant. Leave the tip of the thermistor or DTS exposed, so that you will have a good response time.

==Digital thermometer==

The digital temperature sensor is the new kid on the block - it is a chip made by such manufacturers as Maxim/Dallas, Philips, and Texas Instruments, and is made to run off a voltage from 3 to 5.5 VDC, just like the Arduino puts out. We used the [[Media:Maxim-temp-sensor-DS18B20.pdf|Maxim DS18B20]] (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry them for ~$4 but you can find them for less) and each sensor has unique 64 bit serial code stored in an onboard ROM - this allows you to use more than one sensor at a time. It is rated for the range -55°C to +125°C and has a stated accuracy of +/-.5°C in the range -10°C to +85°C.

[[File:DTS-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for DS18B20 DTS]]
[[File:DTSprobe1.jpg|200px|thumb|right|assembling the DTS probe]]
[[File:One_wire_address.JPG|200px|thumb|right|serial port results for the address finder]]
===What you need===

*digital temperature sensor such as the Maxim DS18B20
*1" / 25mm piece of acrylic tube
*Wire - you'll need 3 different colours; we suggest red for power, green for ground and white for signal
*Heat shrink tubing
*Aquarium / hot glue
*4.7kΩ resistor

===Assembling and waterproofing it===

We've been using this very good, easy-to-follow [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-tutorial.html DTS tutorial] from Hacktronics - it'll teach you everything you need to know about interfacing with your DTS. We'll give you a quick overview, and tell you how to waterproof your DTS for use in liquids. For the detailed how-to, please see the Hacktronics tutorial.

First, you have to solder the wires to the chip; remember to pull the heat shrink on ''before'' you solder the joints. Keep careful track of which of your wires goes to which legs on the sensor! Next, string the piece of acrylic tube on the wires, leaving the sensor sticking out about 1" / 25mm. Fill the tube with glue, then pull on the wires to drag the sensor into the tube until the leads are fully covered.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Use a solderless breadboard to build your circuit by connecting the ground / #1 leg of the DTS chip to the GND pin on your Arduino board and the VDD / #3 leg to the power strip on the breadboard. Then connect the DQ / #2 leg of the chip to an empty strip on your breadboard, and wire that to the Arduino's digital pin 3. Last, connect the strip to power / 5V using a 4.7kΩ resistor.

You'll need to download the [http://www.milesburton.com/?title=Dallas_Temperature_Control_Library Dallas Temperature Control] and [http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html Maxim/Dallas OneWire] libraries, and run the [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/one_wire_address_finder.zip One-Wire address finder] sketch on your Arduino board to retrieve the unique 64-bit serial code embedded in each device - follow this [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-address-finder.html tutorial] from the nice people at Hacktronics.

Once you have the address for the DTS, you can either upload the standard [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/arduino_ds18b20_temperature_sensor.zip One-Wire sketch] to your Arduino board to start measuring temperature, or use the [https://github.com/BioBridge/BioBoardArduinoCode/blob/master/temperature_sensor_NEW.pde modified version] we've made.

==Thermistor==

A thermistor is a type of resistor which has a very well known dependence of the resistance on temperature, and the change is quite steep so that we can resolve small differences in temperature. We are using them in place of traditional thermometers, and so they are sometimes referred to a "resistance thermometers" - they are inexpensive, easy to find, and are '''very''' easy to interface to the Arduino. They are specified mainly by their room temperature (25°C) resistance and a common value is 10 kOhms. If many models are available, like from a major electronics supply house, you can also specify the tolerance and you can choose from different shapes and sizes (the size of a match head is good for starters). As well, there are two general types of thermistors - ones that increase in resistance with increasing temperature (PTC) and those that decrease in temperature with increasing temperature (NTC).

===What you need===

Besides your thermistor, all you need for the circuit is a "standard" resistor with a value that is the same as the room temperature resistance of your thermistor. You'll be using the standard one to build a "resistive divider" so that you can use the 5 VDC output of the Arduino and have good resolution over the full temperature range of the thermistor (usually something like -40°C to +125°C, perfect for biological experiments). For our examples we'll be using a 10kΩ NTC thermistor (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry these) with a 10kΩ resistor for the bridge. [[File:Thermistor-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for the thermistor temperature sensor]]

===How to build it===

Solder on wires and waterproof it as described for the DTS above.

On a breadboard build your simple resistive divider circuit, following the schematic in the image insert.

===Things to keep in mind===

TH1 is the thermistor in the circuit, so your standard resistor (R1) is the one tied to the Arduino ground. When you buy the thermistor and matching resistor, buy ones with tight tolerances so that you don't have to worry about small errors in the temperature introduced by values which are off the stated values; and you might measure the actual values with a good digital multimeter, just to make sure. Take care when soldering, so that you don't expose the sensor to too high a temperature - you can fry it; before you waterproof, check the resistance one last time, just to make sure everything is still OK.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Remember that the Arduino has a analog to digital converter (ADC) with 10-bit (1024) resolution. So for the special case where TH1 is the same as R1 (that's our situation at room temperature) the voltage will be half of the Arduino's 5 VDC, so we can expect the digital value (see RawADC in code below) to be close to 1024/2 or 512.
The code looks like this:

double Thermistor(int RawADC) {
double Temp;
float resistance = (10240000/RawADC) - 10000; //calculate from voltage divider, for 10k resistor
Temp = log(resistance/10000);
// calculate the temperature, in K, using 4 thermistor model/material specific parameters A, B, C, D
// here we use the values for the Sparkfun/Hacktronics version of the Vishay 10k NTC thermistor (from datasheet)
Temp = 1 / (0.003354016 + 0.0002569850 * Temp + 0.000002620131 * Temp * Temp + 0.00000006383091 * Temp * Temp * Temp);
Temp = Temp - 273.15; // Convert Kelvin to Celsius
// Temp = (Temp * 9.0)/ 5.0 + 32.0; // Convert Celsius to Fahrenheit
return Temp;
}

The math part is the Steinhart-Hart equation, which is the relationship between the resistance and the temperature for a thermistor with certain materials properties ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation see here for a description]). On the manufacturer's datasheet for your specific resistor you will find a list of 4 materials constants - usually referred to as A, B, C, and D - that go with it. The most general equation is:

1/T= A + B*ln(R/Rt) + C*ln(R/Rt)2 + D*ln(R/Rt)3

but check which one is appropriate for the material constants on your datasheet (the ones in this example are for Vishay thermistors which come from Sparkfun).

=Calibrating a home-built thermometer=

[[File:Zero_C_noise.JPG|200px|thumb|right|results when the thermistor is immersed in ice water]] [[File:Temperaturebump.JPG|200px|thumb|right|response time of the two sensors]] [[File:Double_probe_baht.jpg|200px|thumb|right|example probes for the two sensors]]

Everybody needs to be convinced that your homemade instrument is reading what it should - it must be checked for calibration. Most of us only have two easily accessible, well known, temperatures in the biological region of interest that we can produce - the melting point of ice (0°C) and the boiling point of water (100°C, at sea leve)l - and these are good places to start. It can be helpful to use another reference temperature measurement technique which has already been calibrated, such as a commercial digital thermometer, in case or thermocouple (plus a reader for it - I use a Fluke instrument with an adjustable offset in case there is any error at your reference temperatures) is not available. This figure shows the results of a trial where I placed both the thermocouple and the thermistor in an ice+water bath (a double walled coffee mug) and recorded the Arduino output every 10 seconds - both instruments had an efective resolution of .1°C and we are looking at the ''noise'' at a fixed temperature.

It is not uncommon to see a peak-to-peak noise level of 3 times the resolution, and that is about what the experiment shows for both the thermistor and thermocouple. Note that for this experiment the Arduino output seems to be linear with the calculated temperature, and this what we expect for relatively small changes in temperature - if we are monitoring experiments where the temperature does not change much we can simplify the mathematical relationship between resistance and temperature, avoiding the calculation hassles of the Steinhart-Hart equation. The offset of ~1.3°C between the "Arduino temperature" and the expected value of 0°C -(the reference thermocouple does only a little better than this unless the 0°C offset voltage is very carefully tweaked - and remember that the literature indicates that we can expect up to about 1°C error due to instrument on-board cold junction compensation errors) - is likely because this particular thermistor only has a room temperature resistance tolerance of +/-5%. If measuring and then using the offset is not what you wish to do, you might have to buy one with a better tolerance and generally take extra-ordinary measures.

The DTS also showed an elevated temperature when in the ice bath - +2°C in this case. This time it is a little harder to understand, and because they are so new there is not much help out there on the web (and I doubt that the vendors have much real experience with them). With the software setting used it had a resolution of .25°C but this is user configurable (between 9 and 12 bits). In order to compare the response time of the two probes we can first immerse them in ice water then remove them and watch the temperature drift upwards towards room temperature - the results are shown in the figure on the right, and because of the construction method the sensor mass is very small compared to that of the probe. The two performed identically, but took ages to reach the new temperature - to get faster response you'll need to decrease the thermal mass of the whole probe ''significantly''.

If we need to investigate the calibration over a narrower range we can play tricks like add ice to hot water and watch the temperature on both our Arduino output and our reference thermometer slowly drift up/down together - to see how your DIY measurements compare with the calibrated ones.

=Making it cooler=

The acrylic tube we used for waterproofing the sensors is a little on the large size, partly because of the large gauge lead wires used - you can customize your specific raw sensor so that it is encapsulated differently and suits your application more closely. You might want to skip the tube method altogether, just waterproofing the sensor alone with something like epoxy.

=Geeking out=

If you want to hack just a little more then you might choose to use a thermistor that you find out in the world, using ''obtainium'' can be particularly satisfying - such as from a BBQ probe or other similar digital thermometer. These will have a to-be-determined room temperature (25°C) resistance and materials constants, so you will need to measure the resistance at at least 3 different temperatures (some people ignore the "C" constant, so 3 might be enough) and solve the multiple equations to get the constant values. Luckily, websites exist to help you with this process.

=Links=

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor] thermistor description - suggested for beginners
*[http://www.specsensors.com/ntc-engineering.asp] general thermistor reference
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation] description of the Steinhart-Hart equation, for thermistors
*[http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Steinhart-Hart-Thermistor-Calculator.phtml] assorted online calculators for thermistors

BioBoard/Documentation/Temperature

2012-05-23T07:38:06Z

Rolfvw: /* Things to keep in mind */

=Introduction to temperature measurements=

We are all familiar with the classic simple analog thermometer - the one with the resevoir of mercury or alcohol at the bottom. Unfortunately it is not very easy to convert the (optical) readings from this into a digital format so that we can datalog the information from our experiments. But with the Arduino we can take an analog ''electrical'' signal and turn it into a digital one that we can use. We have a number of choices so we need to choose the best ones for the BioBoard, where we'll be doing measurements on biological systems so the temperature range is generally the same as the one for liquid water. We want inexpensive, readily available, sensors that are easy to implement with the Arduino - and have the appropriate range, precision, and accuracy.

Some of the basic types of electronic temperature sensors include:
*thermocouple - excellent for very wide temperature ranges, up to 2300°C
*resistance temperature detector (RTD) - used up to 600°C, often for industrial applications
*thermistor - generally limited to <150°C, but inexpensive
*digital temperature sensor (DTS) - the output is linearly proportional to the temperature
[[File:Thermometer sizes.jpg|200px|thumb|right|relative sizes of the two sensors]]

The thermocouple may be seem to be the most versatile - the individual sensors can be quite inexpensive (but to make your own can mean buying enough materials for many probes) and the range large - but the millivolt output requires an amplifier (~$18) to make them compatible with the Arduino, and they have a greater range than we need. RTDs are becoming increasingly common for some applications but require a bridge circuit, and are not as inexpensive or commonly available as we would like. We chose to focus on ''both'' the thermistor and the DTS because they cover the temperature range of choice well, they are inexpensive, and they can be implemented on the Arduino easily - you get two choices, just in case you have a preference, or one is more easily available than the other. The photo shows the 2 sensors that we interfaced (the DTS is the 3 wire one), but note that the digital sensor also comes in a smaller surface mount configuration, and thermistors can be as small as a grain of sand.

=Building a thermometer=

Since your temperature probe will be exposed to moisture or liquid water, it is best to encase it in a waterproof sheath - a good way to do it might be to place it in a plastic tube and seal both the thermistor/DTS end and the wires coming out the far end with silicone aquarium sealant. Leave the tip of the thermistor or DTS exposed, so that you will have a good response time.

==Digital thermometer==

The digital temperature sensor is the new kid on the block - it is a chip made by such manufacturers as Maxim/Dallas, Philips, and Texas Instruments, and is made to run off a voltage from 3 to 5.5 VDC, just like the Arduino puts out. We used the [[Media:Maxim-temp-sensor-DS18B20.pdf|Maxim DS18B20]] (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry them for ~$4 but you can find them for less) and each sensor has unique 64 bit serial code stored in an onboard ROM - this allows you to use more than one sensor at a time. It is rated for the range -55°C to +125°C and has a stated accuracy of +/-.5°C in the range -10°C to +85°C.

[[File:DTS-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for DS18B20 DTS]]
[[File:DTSprobe1.jpg|200px|thumb|right|assembling the DTS probe]]
[[File:One_wire_address.JPG|200px|thumb|right|serial port results for the address finder]]
===What you need===

*digital temperature sensor such as the Maxim DS18B20
*1" / 25mm piece of acrylic tube
*Wire - you'll need 3 different colours; we suggest red for power, green for ground and white for signal
*Heat shrink tubing
*Aquarium / hot glue
*4.7kΩ resistor

===Assembling and waterproofing it===

We've been using this very good, easy-to-follow [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-tutorial.html DTS tutorial] from Hacktronics - it'll teach you everything you need to know about interfacing with your DTS. We'll give you a quick overview, and tell you how to waterproof your DTS for use in liquids. For the detailed how-to, please see the Hacktronics tutorial.

First, you have to solder the wires to the chip; remember to pull the heat shrink on ''before'' you solder the joints. Keep careful track of which of your wires goes to which legs on the sensor! Next, string the piece of acrylic tube on the wires, leaving the sensor sticking out about 1" / 25mm. Fill the tube with glue, then pull on the wires to drag the sensor into the tube until the leads are fully covered.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Use a solderless breadboard to build your circuit by connecting the ground / #1 leg of the DTS chip to the GND pin on your Arduino board and the VDD / #3 leg to the power strip on the breadboard. Then connect the DQ / #2 leg of the chip to an empty strip on your breadboard, and wire that to the Arduino's digital pin 3. Last, connect the strip to power / 5V using a 4.7kΩ resistor.

You'll need to download the [http://www.milesburton.com/?title=Dallas_Temperature_Control_Library Dallas Temperature Control] and [http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html Maxim/Dallas OneWire] libraries, and run the [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/one_wire_address_finder.zip One-Wire address finder] sketch on your Arduino board to retrieve the unique 64-bit serial code embedded in each device - follow this [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-address-finder.html tutorial] from the nice people at Hacktronics.

Once you have the address for the DTS, you can either upload the standard [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/arduino_ds18b20_temperature_sensor.zip One-Wire sketch] to your Arduino board to start measuring temperature, or use the [https://github.com/BioBridge/BioBoardArduinoCode/blob/master/temperature_sensor_NEW.pde modified version] we've made.

==Thermistor==

A thermistor is a type of resistor which has a very well known dependence of the resistance on temperature, and the change is quite steep so that we can resolve small differences in temperature. We are using them in place of traditional thermometers, and so they are sometimes referred to a "resistance thermometers" - they are inexpensive, easy to find, and are '''very''' easy to interface to the Arduino. They are specified mainly by their room temperature (25°C) resistance and a common value is 10 kOhms. If many models are available, like from a major electronics supply house, you can also specify the tolerance and you can choose from different shapes and sizes (the size of a match head is good for starters). As well, there are two general types of thermistors - ones that increase in resistance with increasing temperature (PTC) and those that decrease in temperature with increasing temperature (NTC).

===What you need===

Besides your thermistor, all you need for the circuit is a "standard" resistor with a value that is the same as the room temperature resistance of your thermistor. You'll be using the standard one to build a "resistive divider" so that you can use the 5 VDC output of the Arduino and have good resolution over the full temperature range of the thermistor (usually something like -40°C to +125°C, perfect for biological experiments). For our examples we'll be using a 10kΩ NTC thermistor (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry these) with a 10kΩ resistor for the bridge. [[File:Thermistor-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for the thermistor temperature sensor]]

===How to build it===

Solder on wires and waterproof it as described for the DTS above.

On a breadboard build your simple resistive divider circuit, following the schematic in the image insert.

===Things to keep in mind===

TH1 is the thermistor in the circuit, so your standard resistor (R1) is the one tied to the Arduino ground. When you buy the thermistor and matching resistor, buy ones with tight tolerances so that you don't have to worry about small errors in the temperature introduced by values which are off the stated values; and you might measure the actual values with a good digital multimeter, just to make sure. Take care when soldering, so that you don't expose the sensor to too high a temperature - you can fry it; before you waterproof, check the resistance one last time, just to make sure everything is still OK.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Remember that the Arduino has a analog to digital converter (ADC) with 10-bit (1024) resolution. So for the special case where R1 is the same as R2 (that's our situation at room temperature) the voltage will be half of the Arduino's 5 VDC, so we can expect the digital value (see RawADC in code below) to be close to 1024/2 or 512.
The code looks like this:

double Thermistor(int RawADC) {
double Temp;
float resistance = (10240000/RawADC) - 10000; //calculate from voltage divider, for 10k resistor
Temp = log(resistance/10000);
// calculate the temperature, in K, using 4 thermistor model/material specific parameters A, B, C, D
// here we use the values for the Sparkfun/Hacktronics version of the Vishay 10k NTC thermistor (from datasheet)
Temp = 1 / (0.003354016 + 0.0002569850 * Temp + 0.000002620131 * Temp * Temp + 0.00000006383091 * Temp * Temp * Temp);
Temp = Temp - 273.15; // Convert Kelvin to Celsius
// Temp = (Temp * 9.0)/ 5.0 + 32.0; // Convert Celsius to Fahrenheit
return Temp;
}

The math part is the Steinhart-Hart equation, which is the relationship between the resistance and the temperature for a thermistor with certain materials properties ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation see here for a description]). On the manufacturer's datasheet for your specific resistor you will find a list of 4 materials constants - usually referred to as A, B, C, and D - that go with it. The most general equation is:

1/T= A + B*ln(R/Rt) + C*ln(R/Rt)2 + D*ln(R/Rt)3

but check which one is appropriate for the material constants on your datasheet (the ones in this example are for Vishay thermistors which come from Sparkfun).

=Calibrating a home-built thermometer=

[[File:Zero_C_noise.JPG|200px|thumb|right|results when the thermistor is immersed in ice water]] [[File:Temperaturebump.JPG|200px|thumb|right|response time of the two sensors]] [[File:Double_probe_baht.jpg|200px|thumb|right|example probes for the two sensors]]

Everybody needs to be convinced that your homemade instrument is reading what it should - it must be checked for calibration. Most of us only have two easily accessible, well known, temperatures in the biological region of interest that we can produce - the melting point of ice (0°C) and the boiling point of water (100°C, at sea leve)l - and these are good places to start. It can be helpful to use another reference temperature measurement technique which has already been calibrated, such as a commercial digital thermometer, in case or thermocouple (plus a reader for it - I use a Fluke instrument with an adjustable offset in case there is any error at your reference temperatures) is not available. This figure shows the results of a trial where I placed both the thermocouple and the thermistor in an ice+water bath (a double walled coffee mug) and recorded the Arduino output every 10 seconds - both instruments had an efective resolution of .1°C and we are looking at the ''noise'' at a fixed temperature.

It is not uncommon to see a peak-to-peak noise level of 3 times the resolution, and that is about what the experiment shows for both the thermistor and thermocouple. Note that for this experiment the Arduino output seems to be linear with the calculated temperature, and this what we expect for relatively small changes in temperature - if we are monitoring experiments where the temperature does not change much we can simplify the mathematical relationship between resistance and temperature, avoiding the calculation hassles of the Steinhart-Hart equation. The offset of ~1.3°C between the "Arduino temperature" and the expected value of 0°C -(the reference thermocouple does only a little better than this unless the 0°C offset voltage is very carefully tweaked - and remember that the literature indicates that we can expect up to about 1°C error due to instrument on-board cold junction compensation errors) - is likely because this particular thermistor only has a room temperature resistance tolerance of +/-5%. If measuring and then using the offset is not what you wish to do, you might have to buy one with a better tolerance and generally take extra-ordinary measures.

The DTS also showed an elevated temperature when in the ice bath - +2°C in this case. This time it is a little harder to understand, and because they are so new there is not much help out there on the web (and I doubt that the vendors have much real experience with them). With the software setting used it had a resolution of .25°C but this is user configurable (between 9 and 12 bits). In order to compare the response time of the two probes we can first immerse them in ice water then remove them and watch the temperature drift upwards towards room temperature - the results are shown in the figure on the right, and because of the construction method the sensor mass is very small compared to that of the probe. The two performed identically, but took ages to reach the new temperature - to get faster response you'll need to decrease the thermal mass of the whole probe ''significantly''.

If we need to investigate the calibration over a narrower range we can play tricks like add ice to hot water and watch the temperature on both our Arduino output and our reference thermometer slowly drift up/down together - to see how your DIY measurements compare with the calibrated ones.

=Making it cooler=

The acrylic tube we used for waterproofing the sensors is a little on the large size, partly because of the large gauge lead wires used - you can customize your specific raw sensor so that it is encapsulated differently and suits your application more closely. You might want to skip the tube method altogether, just waterproofing the sensor alone with something like epoxy.

=Geeking out=

If you want to hack just a little more then you might choose to use a thermistor that you find out in the world, using ''obtainium'' can be particularly satisfying - such as from a BBQ probe or other similar digital thermometer. These will have a to-be-determined room temperature (25°C) resistance and materials constants, so you will need to measure the resistance at at least 3 different temperatures (some people ignore the "C" constant, so 3 might be enough) and solve the multiple equations to get the constant values. Luckily, websites exist to help you with this process.

=Links=

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor] thermistor description - suggested for beginners
*[http://www.specsensors.com/ntc-engineering.asp] general thermistor reference
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation] description of the Steinhart-Hart equation, for thermistors
*[http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Steinhart-Hart-Thermistor-Calculator.phtml] assorted online calculators for thermistors

BioBoard/Documentation/Temperature

2012-05-23T07:37:01Z

Rolfvw: /* Interfacing and measuring */

=Introduction to temperature measurements=

We are all familiar with the classic simple analog thermometer - the one with the resevoir of mercury or alcohol at the bottom. Unfortunately it is not very easy to convert the (optical) readings from this into a digital format so that we can datalog the information from our experiments. But with the Arduino we can take an analog ''electrical'' signal and turn it into a digital one that we can use. We have a number of choices so we need to choose the best ones for the BioBoard, where we'll be doing measurements on biological systems so the temperature range is generally the same as the one for liquid water. We want inexpensive, readily available, sensors that are easy to implement with the Arduino - and have the appropriate range, precision, and accuracy.

Some of the basic types of electronic temperature sensors include:
*thermocouple - excellent for very wide temperature ranges, up to 2300°C
*resistance temperature detector (RTD) - used up to 600°C, often for industrial applications
*thermistor - generally limited to <150°C, but inexpensive
*digital temperature sensor (DTS) - the output is linearly proportional to the temperature
[[File:Thermometer sizes.jpg|200px|thumb|right|relative sizes of the two sensors]]

The thermocouple may be seem to be the most versatile - the individual sensors can be quite inexpensive (but to make your own can mean buying enough materials for many probes) and the range large - but the millivolt output requires an amplifier (~$18) to make them compatible with the Arduino, and they have a greater range than we need. RTDs are becoming increasingly common for some applications but require a bridge circuit, and are not as inexpensive or commonly available as we would like. We chose to focus on ''both'' the thermistor and the DTS because they cover the temperature range of choice well, they are inexpensive, and they can be implemented on the Arduino easily - you get two choices, just in case you have a preference, or one is more easily available than the other. The photo shows the 2 sensors that we interfaced (the DTS is the 3 wire one), but note that the digital sensor also comes in a smaller surface mount configuration, and thermistors can be as small as a grain of sand.

=Building a thermometer=

Since your temperature probe will be exposed to moisture or liquid water, it is best to encase it in a waterproof sheath - a good way to do it might be to place it in a plastic tube and seal both the thermistor/DTS end and the wires coming out the far end with silicone aquarium sealant. Leave the tip of the thermistor or DTS exposed, so that you will have a good response time.

==Digital thermometer==

The digital temperature sensor is the new kid on the block - it is a chip made by such manufacturers as Maxim/Dallas, Philips, and Texas Instruments, and is made to run off a voltage from 3 to 5.5 VDC, just like the Arduino puts out. We used the [[Media:Maxim-temp-sensor-DS18B20.pdf|Maxim DS18B20]] (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry them for ~$4 but you can find them for less) and each sensor has unique 64 bit serial code stored in an onboard ROM - this allows you to use more than one sensor at a time. It is rated for the range -55°C to +125°C and has a stated accuracy of +/-.5°C in the range -10°C to +85°C.

[[File:DTS-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for DS18B20 DTS]]
[[File:DTSprobe1.jpg|200px|thumb|right|assembling the DTS probe]]
[[File:One_wire_address.JPG|200px|thumb|right|serial port results for the address finder]]
===What you need===

*digital temperature sensor such as the Maxim DS18B20
*1" / 25mm piece of acrylic tube
*Wire - you'll need 3 different colours; we suggest red for power, green for ground and white for signal
*Heat shrink tubing
*Aquarium / hot glue
*4.7kΩ resistor

===Assembling and waterproofing it===

We've been using this very good, easy-to-follow [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-tutorial.html DTS tutorial] from Hacktronics - it'll teach you everything you need to know about interfacing with your DTS. We'll give you a quick overview, and tell you how to waterproof your DTS for use in liquids. For the detailed how-to, please see the Hacktronics tutorial.

First, you have to solder the wires to the chip; remember to pull the heat shrink on ''before'' you solder the joints. Keep careful track of which of your wires goes to which legs on the sensor! Next, string the piece of acrylic tube on the wires, leaving the sensor sticking out about 1" / 25mm. Fill the tube with glue, then pull on the wires to drag the sensor into the tube until the leads are fully covered.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Use a solderless breadboard to build your circuit by connecting the ground / #1 leg of the DTS chip to the GND pin on your Arduino board and the VDD / #3 leg to the power strip on the breadboard. Then connect the DQ / #2 leg of the chip to an empty strip on your breadboard, and wire that to the Arduino's digital pin 3. Last, connect the strip to power / 5V using a 4.7kΩ resistor.

You'll need to download the [http://www.milesburton.com/?title=Dallas_Temperature_Control_Library Dallas Temperature Control] and [http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html Maxim/Dallas OneWire] libraries, and run the [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/one_wire_address_finder.zip One-Wire address finder] sketch on your Arduino board to retrieve the unique 64-bit serial code embedded in each device - follow this [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-address-finder.html tutorial] from the nice people at Hacktronics.

Once you have the address for the DTS, you can either upload the standard [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/arduino_ds18b20_temperature_sensor.zip One-Wire sketch] to your Arduino board to start measuring temperature, or use the [https://github.com/BioBridge/BioBoardArduinoCode/blob/master/temperature_sensor_NEW.pde modified version] we've made.

==Thermistor==

A thermistor is a type of resistor which has a very well known dependence of the resistance on temperature, and the change is quite steep so that we can resolve small differences in temperature. We are using them in place of traditional thermometers, and so they are sometimes referred to a "resistance thermometers" - they are inexpensive, easy to find, and are '''very''' easy to interface to the Arduino. They are specified mainly by their room temperature (25°C) resistance and a common value is 10 kOhms. If many models are available, like from a major electronics supply house, you can also specify the tolerance and you can choose from different shapes and sizes (the size of a match head is good for starters). As well, there are two general types of thermistors - ones that increase in resistance with increasing temperature (PTC) and those that decrease in temperature with increasing temperature (NTC).

===What you need===

Besides your thermistor, all you need for the circuit is a "standard" resistor with a value that is the same as the room temperature resistance of your thermistor. You'll be using the standard one to build a "resistive divider" so that you can use the 5 VDC output of the Arduino and have good resolution over the full temperature range of the thermistor (usually something like -40°C to +125°C, perfect for biological experiments). For our examples we'll be using a 10kΩ NTC thermistor (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry these) with a 10kΩ resistor for the bridge. [[File:Thermistor-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for the thermistor temperature sensor]]

===How to build it===

Solder on wires and waterproof it as described for the DTS above.

On a breadboard build your simple resistive divider circuit, following the schematic in the image insert.

===Things to keep in mind===

R1 is the thermistor in the circuit, so your standard resistor (R2) is the one tied to the Arduino ground. When you buy the thermistor and matching resistor, buy ones with tight tolerances so that you don't have to worry about small errors in the temperature introduced by values which are off the stated values; and you might measure the actual values with a good digital multimeter, just to make sure. Take care when soldering, so that you don't expose the sensor to too high a temperature - you can fry it; before you waterproof, check the resistance one last time, just to make sure everything is still OK.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Remember that the Arduino has a analog to digital converter (ADC) with 10-bit (1024) resolution. So for the special case where R1 is the same as R2 (that's our situation at room temperature) the voltage will be half of the Arduino's 5 VDC, so we can expect the digital value (see RawADC in code below) to be close to 1024/2 or 512.
The code looks like this:

double Thermistor(int RawADC) {
double Temp;
float resistance = (10240000/RawADC) - 10000; //calculate from voltage divider, for 10k resistor
Temp = log(resistance/10000);
// calculate the temperature, in K, using 4 thermistor model/material specific parameters A, B, C, D
// here we use the values for the Sparkfun/Hacktronics version of the Vishay 10k NTC thermistor (from datasheet)
Temp = 1 / (0.003354016 + 0.0002569850 * Temp + 0.000002620131 * Temp * Temp + 0.00000006383091 * Temp * Temp * Temp);
Temp = Temp - 273.15; // Convert Kelvin to Celsius
// Temp = (Temp * 9.0)/ 5.0 + 32.0; // Convert Celsius to Fahrenheit
return Temp;
}

The math part is the Steinhart-Hart equation, which is the relationship between the resistance and the temperature for a thermistor with certain materials properties ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation see here for a description]). On the manufacturer's datasheet for your specific resistor you will find a list of 4 materials constants - usually referred to as A, B, C, and D - that go with it. The most general equation is:

1/T= A + B*ln(R/Rt) + C*ln(R/Rt)2 + D*ln(R/Rt)3

but check which one is appropriate for the material constants on your datasheet (the ones in this example are for Vishay thermistors which come from Sparkfun).

=Calibrating a home-built thermometer=

[[File:Zero_C_noise.JPG|200px|thumb|right|results when the thermistor is immersed in ice water]] [[File:Temperaturebump.JPG|200px|thumb|right|response time of the two sensors]] [[File:Double_probe_baht.jpg|200px|thumb|right|example probes for the two sensors]]

Everybody needs to be convinced that your homemade instrument is reading what it should - it must be checked for calibration. Most of us only have two easily accessible, well known, temperatures in the biological region of interest that we can produce - the melting point of ice (0°C) and the boiling point of water (100°C, at sea leve)l - and these are good places to start. It can be helpful to use another reference temperature measurement technique which has already been calibrated, such as a commercial digital thermometer, in case or thermocouple (plus a reader for it - I use a Fluke instrument with an adjustable offset in case there is any error at your reference temperatures) is not available. This figure shows the results of a trial where I placed both the thermocouple and the thermistor in an ice+water bath (a double walled coffee mug) and recorded the Arduino output every 10 seconds - both instruments had an efective resolution of .1°C and we are looking at the ''noise'' at a fixed temperature.

It is not uncommon to see a peak-to-peak noise level of 3 times the resolution, and that is about what the experiment shows for both the thermistor and thermocouple. Note that for this experiment the Arduino output seems to be linear with the calculated temperature, and this what we expect for relatively small changes in temperature - if we are monitoring experiments where the temperature does not change much we can simplify the mathematical relationship between resistance and temperature, avoiding the calculation hassles of the Steinhart-Hart equation. The offset of ~1.3°C between the "Arduino temperature" and the expected value of 0°C -(the reference thermocouple does only a little better than this unless the 0°C offset voltage is very carefully tweaked - and remember that the literature indicates that we can expect up to about 1°C error due to instrument on-board cold junction compensation errors) - is likely because this particular thermistor only has a room temperature resistance tolerance of +/-5%. If measuring and then using the offset is not what you wish to do, you might have to buy one with a better tolerance and generally take extra-ordinary measures.

The DTS also showed an elevated temperature when in the ice bath - +2°C in this case. This time it is a little harder to understand, and because they are so new there is not much help out there on the web (and I doubt that the vendors have much real experience with them). With the software setting used it had a resolution of .25°C but this is user configurable (between 9 and 12 bits). In order to compare the response time of the two probes we can first immerse them in ice water then remove them and watch the temperature drift upwards towards room temperature - the results are shown in the figure on the right, and because of the construction method the sensor mass is very small compared to that of the probe. The two performed identically, but took ages to reach the new temperature - to get faster response you'll need to decrease the thermal mass of the whole probe ''significantly''.

If we need to investigate the calibration over a narrower range we can play tricks like add ice to hot water and watch the temperature on both our Arduino output and our reference thermometer slowly drift up/down together - to see how your DIY measurements compare with the calibrated ones.

=Making it cooler=

The acrylic tube we used for waterproofing the sensors is a little on the large size, partly because of the large gauge lead wires used - you can customize your specific raw sensor so that it is encapsulated differently and suits your application more closely. You might want to skip the tube method altogether, just waterproofing the sensor alone with something like epoxy.

=Geeking out=

If you want to hack just a little more then you might choose to use a thermistor that you find out in the world, using ''obtainium'' can be particularly satisfying - such as from a BBQ probe or other similar digital thermometer. These will have a to-be-determined room temperature (25°C) resistance and materials constants, so you will need to measure the resistance at at least 3 different temperatures (some people ignore the "C" constant, so 3 might be enough) and solve the multiple equations to get the constant values. Luckily, websites exist to help you with this process.

=Links=

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor] thermistor description - suggested for beginners
*[http://www.specsensors.com/ntc-engineering.asp] general thermistor reference
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation] description of the Steinhart-Hart equation, for thermistors
*[http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Steinhart-Hart-Thermistor-Calculator.phtml] assorted online calculators for thermistors

BioBoard/Documentation/Temperature

2012-05-23T07:17:27Z

Rolfvw: /* Interfacing and measuring */

=Introduction to temperature measurements=

We are all familiar with the classic simple analog thermometer - the one with the resevoir of mercury or alcohol at the bottom. Unfortunately it is not very easy to convert the (optical) readings from this into a digital format so that we can datalog the information from our experiments. But with the Arduino we can take an analog ''electrical'' signal and turn it into a digital one that we can use. We have a number of choices so we need to choose the best ones for the BioBoard, where we'll be doing measurements on biological systems so the temperature range is generally the same as the one for liquid water. We want inexpensive, readily available, sensors that are easy to implement with the Arduino - and have the appropriate range, precision, and accuracy.

Some of the basic types of electronic temperature sensors include:
*thermocouple - excellent for very wide temperature ranges, up to 2300°C
*resistance temperature detector (RTD) - used up to 600°C, often for industrial applications
*thermistor - generally limited to <150°C, but inexpensive
*digital temperature sensor (DTS) - the output is linearly proportional to the temperature
[[File:Thermometer sizes.jpg|200px|thumb|right|relative sizes of the two sensors]]

The thermocouple may be seem to be the most versatile - the individual sensors can be quite inexpensive (but to make your own can mean buying enough materials for many probes) and the range large - but the millivolt output requires an amplifier (~$18) to make them compatible with the Arduino, and they have a greater range than we need. RTDs are becoming increasingly common for some applications but require a bridge circuit, and are not as inexpensive or commonly available as we would like. We chose to focus on ''both'' the thermistor and the DTS because they cover the temperature range of choice well, they are inexpensive, and they can be implemented on the Arduino easily - you get two choices, just in case you have a preference, or one is more easily available than the other. The photo shows the 2 sensors that we interfaced (the DTS is the 3 wire one), but note that the digital sensor also comes in a smaller surface mount configuration, and thermistors can be as small as a grain of sand.

=Building a thermometer=

Since your temperature probe will be exposed to moisture or liquid water, it is best to encase it in a waterproof sheath - a good way to do it might be to place it in a plastic tube and seal both the thermistor/DTS end and the wires coming out the far end with silicone aquarium sealant. Leave the tip of the thermistor or DTS exposed, so that you will have a good response time.

==Digital thermometer==

The digital temperature sensor is the new kid on the block - it is a chip made by such manufacturers as Maxim/Dallas, Philips, and Texas Instruments, and is made to run off a voltage from 3 to 5.5 VDC, just like the Arduino puts out. We used the [[Media:Maxim-temp-sensor-DS18B20.pdf|Maxim DS18B20]] (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry them for ~$4 but you can find them for less) and each sensor has unique 64 bit serial code stored in an onboard ROM - this allows you to use more than one sensor at a time. It is rated for the range -55°C to +125°C and has a stated accuracy of +/-.5°C in the range -10°C to +85°C.

[[File:DTS-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for DS18B20 DTS]]
[[File:DTSprobe1.jpg|200px|thumb|right|assembling the DTS probe]]
[[File:One_wire_address.JPG|200px|thumb|right|serial port results for the address finder]]
===What you need===

*digital temperature sensor such as the Maxim DS18B20
*1" / 25mm piece of acrylic tube
*Wire - you'll need 3 different colours; we suggest red for power, green for ground and white for signal
*Heat shrink tubing
*Aquarium / hot glue
*4.7kΩ resistor

===Assembling and waterproofing it===

We've been using this very good, easy-to-follow [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-tutorial.html DTS tutorial] from Hacktronics - it'll teach you everything you need to know about interfacing with your DTS. We'll give you a quick overview, and tell you how to waterproof your DTS for use in liquids. For the detailed how-to, please see the Hacktronics tutorial.

First, you have to solder the wires to the chip; remember to pull the heat shrink on ''before'' you solder the joints. Keep careful track of which of your wires goes to which legs on the sensor! Next, string the piece of acrylic tube on the wires, leaving the sensor sticking out about 1" / 25mm. Fill the tube with glue, then pull on the wires to drag the sensor into the tube until the leads are fully covered.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Use a solderless breadboard to build your circuit by connecting the ground / #1 leg of the DTS chip to the GND pin on your Arduino board and the VDD / #3 leg to the power strip on the breadboard. Then connect the DQ / #2 leg of the chip to an empty strip on your breadboard, and wire that to the Arduino's digital pin 3. Last, connect the strip to power / 5V using a 4.7kΩ resistor.

You'll need to download the [http://www.milesburton.com/?title=Dallas_Temperature_Control_Library Dallas Temperature Control] and [http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html Maxim/Dallas OneWire] libraries, and run the [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/one_wire_address_finder.zip One-Wire address finder] sketch on your Arduino board to retrieve the unique 64-bit serial code embedded in each device - follow this [http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-address-finder.html tutorial] from the nice people at Hacktronics.

Once you have the address for the DTS, you can either upload the standard [http://www.hacktronics.com/code/arduino_ds18b20_temperature_sensor.zip One-Wire sketch] to your Arduino board to start measuring temperature, or use the [https://github.com/BioBridge/BioBoardArduinoCode/blob/master/temperature_sensor_NEW.pde modified version] we've made.

==Thermistor==

A thermistor is a type of resistor which has a very well known dependence of the resistance on temperature, and the change is quite steep so that we can resolve small differences in temperature. We are using them in place of traditional thermometers, and so they are sometimes referred to a "resistance thermometers" - they are inexpensive, easy to find, and are '''very''' easy to interface to the Arduino. They are specified mainly by their room temperature (25°C) resistance and a common value is 10 kOhms. If many models are available, like from a major electronics supply house, you can also specify the tolerance and you can choose from different shapes and sizes (the size of a match head is good for starters). As well, there are two general types of thermistors - ones that increase in resistance with increasing temperature (PTC) and those that decrease in temperature with increasing temperature (NTC).

===What you need===

Besides your thermistor, all you need for the circuit is a "standard" resistor with a value that is the same as the room temperature resistance of your thermistor. You'll be using the standard one to build a "resistive divider" so that you can use the 5 VDC output of the Arduino and have good resolution over the full temperature range of the thermistor (usually something like -40°C to +125°C, perfect for biological experiments). For our examples we'll be using a 10kΩ NTC thermistor (Sparkfun and Hacktronics carry these) with a 10kΩ resistor for the bridge. [[File:Thermistor-schematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|schematic for the thermistor temperature sensor]]

===How to build it===

Solder on wires and waterproof it as described for the DTS above.

On a breadboard build your simple resistive divider circuit, following the schematic in the image insert.

===Things to keep in mind===

R1 is the thermistor in the circuit, so your standard resistor (R2) is the one tied to the Arduino ground. When you buy the thermistor and matching resistor, buy ones with tight tolerances so that you don't have to worry about small errors in the temperature introduced by values which are off the stated values; and you might measure the actual values with a good digital multimeter, just to make sure. Take care when soldering, so that you don't expose the sensor to too high a temperature - you can fry it; before you waterproof, check the resistance one last time, just to make sure everything is still OK.

===Interfacing and measuring===

Remember that the Arduino has a digital input with 10 bit (1024) resolution so for the special case where R1 is the same as R2 (that's our situation at room temperature) the voltage will be half of the Arduino's 5 VDC, so we can expect the digital output to be 1024/2 or 512. The code looks like this:

double Thermistor(int RawADC) {
double Temp;
float resistance = (10240000/RawADC) - 10000; //calculate from voltage divider, for 10k resistor
Temp = log(resistance/10000);
// calculate the temperature, in K, using 4 thermistor model/material specific parameters A, B, C, D
// here we use the values for the Sparkfun/Hacktronics version of the Vishay 10k NTC thermistor (from datasheet)
Temp = 1 / (0.003354016 + 0.0002569850 * Temp + 0.000002620131 * Temp * Temp + 0.00000006383091 * Temp * Temp * Temp);
Temp = Temp - 273.15; // Convert Kelvin to Celsius
// Temp = (Temp * 9.0)/ 5.0 + 32.0; // Convert Celsius to Fahrenheit
return Temp;
}

and the math part is the Steinhart-Hart equation, which is the relationship between the resistance and the temperature for a thermistor with certain materials properties ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation see here for a description]). On the manufacturer's datasheet for your specific resistor you will find a list of 4 materials constants - usually referred to as A, B, C, and D - that go with it. The most general equation is:

1/T= A + B*ln(R/Rt) + C*ln(R/Rt)2 + D*ln(R/Rt)3

but check which one is appropriate for the material constants on your datasheet (the ones in this example are for Vishay thermistors which come from Sparkfun).

=Calibrating a home-built thermometer=

[[File:Zero_C_noise.JPG|200px|thumb|right|results when the thermistor is immersed in ice water]] [[File:Temperaturebump.JPG|200px|thumb|right|response time of the two sensors]] [[File:Double_probe_baht.jpg|200px|thumb|right|example probes for the two sensors]]

Everybody needs to be convinced that your homemade instrument is reading what it should - it must be checked for calibration. Most of us only have two easily accessible, well known, temperatures in the biological region of interest that we can produce - the melting point of ice (0°C) and the boiling point of water (100°C, at sea leve)l - and these are good places to start. It can be helpful to use another reference temperature measurement technique which has already been calibrated, such as a commercial digital thermometer, in case or thermocouple (plus a reader for it - I use a Fluke instrument with an adjustable offset in case there is any error at your reference temperatures) is not available. This figure shows the results of a trial where I placed both the thermocouple and the thermistor in an ice+water bath (a double walled coffee mug) and recorded the Arduino output every 10 seconds - both instruments had an efective resolution of .1°C and we are looking at the ''noise'' at a fixed temperature.

It is not uncommon to see a peak-to-peak noise level of 3 times the resolution, and that is about what the experiment shows for both the thermistor and thermocouple. Note that for this experiment the Arduino output seems to be linear with the calculated temperature, and this what we expect for relatively small changes in temperature - if we are monitoring experiments where the temperature does not change much we can simplify the mathematical relationship between resistance and temperature, avoiding the calculation hassles of the Steinhart-Hart equation. The offset of ~1.3°C between the "Arduino temperature" and the expected value of 0°C -(the reference thermocouple does only a little better than this unless the 0°C offset voltage is very carefully tweaked - and remember that the literature indicates that we can expect up to about 1°C error due to instrument on-board cold junction compensation errors) - is likely because this particular thermistor only has a room temperature resistance tolerance of +/-5%. If measuring and then using the offset is not what you wish to do, you might have to buy one with a better tolerance and generally take extra-ordinary measures.

The DTS also showed an elevated temperature when in the ice bath - +2°C in this case. This time it is a little harder to understand, and because they are so new there is not much help out there on the web (and I doubt that the vendors have much real experience with them). With the software setting used it had a resolution of .25°C but this is user configurable (between 9 and 12 bits). In order to compare the response time of the two probes we can first immerse them in ice water then remove them and watch the temperature drift upwards towards room temperature - the results are shown in the figure on the right, and because of the construction method the sensor mass is very small compared to that of the probe. The two performed identically, but took ages to reach the new temperature - to get faster response you'll need to decrease the thermal mass of the whole probe ''significantly''.

If we need to investigate the calibration over a narrower range we can play tricks like add ice to hot water and watch the temperature on both our Arduino output and our reference thermometer slowly drift up/down together - to see how your DIY measurements compare with the calibrated ones.

=Making it cooler=

The acrylic tube we used for waterproofing the sensors is a little on the large size, partly because of the large gauge lead wires used - you can customize your specific raw sensor so that it is encapsulated differently and suits your application more closely. You might want to skip the tube method altogether, just waterproofing the sensor alone with something like epoxy.

=Geeking out=

If you want to hack just a little more then you might choose to use a thermistor that you find out in the world, using ''obtainium'' can be particularly satisfying - such as from a BBQ probe or other similar digital thermometer. These will have a to-be-determined room temperature (25°C) resistance and materials constants, so you will need to measure the resistance at at least 3 different temperatures (some people ignore the "C" constant, so 3 might be enough) and solve the multiple equations to get the constant values. Luckily, websites exist to help you with this process.

=Links=

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor] thermistor description - suggested for beginners
*[http://www.specsensors.com/ntc-engineering.asp] general thermistor reference
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhart%E2%80%93Hart_equation] description of the Steinhart-Hart equation, for thermistors
*[http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Steinhart-Hart-Thermistor-Calculator.phtml] assorted online calculators for thermistors

Category:Events

2011-05-14T20:24:38Z

Rolfvw: /* Upcoming Events edit */

Official, Semi-Official, one-off and other events at the Noisebridge space.

=Event Calendar=
Not all events make it onto this calendar. Many events only make it to the Discussion or Announcements [[Mailinglist | mailing lists]], [[IRC]] or in person at [[:Category:Meeting_Notes | Tuesday meetings]]. Best of all, Noisebridge is about people getting together at the space in San Francisco to do stuff... like in person. Some events just happen. Pay attention!

If you'd like to host an event yourself, we have advice on [[Hosting_an_Event | hosting an event]] at Noisebridge.

Event posters are encouraged to crosspost to the Google Calendar. View the [http://www.google.com/calendar/embed?src=vo3i3c0qtjnkjr2ojasd0ftt8s%40group.calendar.google.com&ctz=America/Los_Angeles Google Calendar], view the [http://www.google.com/calendar/feeds/vo3i3c0qtjnkjr2ojasd0ftt8s%40group.calendar.google.com/public/basic Google Calendar in XML], or the [http://www.google.com/calendar/ical/vo3i3c0qtjnkjr2ojasd0ftt8s%40group.calendar.google.com/public/basic.ics Google Calendar in ical] format.

To post Google Calendar entries for your event, contact a Noisebridge member for access.

(Wouldn't it be great if there were a gCal mediawiki plugin so crossposting wasn't needed? Do you know of a good one? Help us!) <- working on this, need to upgrade Mediawiki in order to use some plugins.
<onlyinclude>
=== Upcoming Events [https://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Category:Events&action=edit&section=2 edit] ===

*'''May 13th, 19:00''' - Build a Contact Mic with Hackerspace Rock Band CMKT 4. All the way from Chicago, the band is eager to teach you the art of contact microphone building. Here is our standard class description:
**At our workshops, everyone who buys a kit ($15 per workshop attendee, includes a kit; $10 apiece for additional kits) will learn to solder. They will also work with hot glue, zip ties, shielded cable, a piezo electric disc and recycled bottle-caps to make a fully functioning Bottle-Cap Contact Microphone. These microphones pick up physical vibrations and transduce the vibrations into an electrical audio signal. Students are encouraged to bring instruments and found objects to listen to through the microphones.
**There is a dry-time involved in the materials we use, however, during that time, we will put on a brief performance for the attendees. For the performance, we will require the use of a PA.
**You can hear more about us at http://www.facebook.com/cmkt4 http://www.myspace.com/cmkt4 and http://cmkt4.bandcamp.com/, we have performance videos at http://www.vimeo.com/channels/cremedementia. Follow us on twitter @cmkt4.

*'''May 18th, 6:30-9pm''' - Gephi Workshop in the main area. Gephi is an open-source software for network visualization and analysis. It helps data analysts to intuitively reveal patterns and trends, highlight outliers and tells stories with their data. Bring your own laptop. More info: http://www.meetup.com/VisualizeMyData/events/17216797/

*'''May 21-22, 10am-6pm (approx)''' - Maker Faire! While not held at Noisebridge, many of our members will be there. Noisebridge will have a booth in the Hackerspace area. More info: http://makerfaire.com/bayarea/2011/

*'''UPDATE: June 5 or 6, 2:00pm - 5:00pm''' - The San Francisco Chapter of [http://toool.us The Open Organisation Of Lockpickers] invite you to join us to learn about the history, styles, features, and techniques for using Bogota wave rakes. This meeting focuses on the unique characteristics and effectiveness of Bogota tools. Christina Palmer will demonstrate both picking and how to make your own set of Bogota rakes from stainless steel windshield wiper blade inserts. Afterward, she'll entertain Bogota-related Q&A and, for those new to lockpicking, questions about basic tools and techniques. Final date available shortly.

=== Recurring Events [https://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Category:Events&action=edit&section=3 edit] ===

* '''Monday'''
** [[House_Keeping#Trash_and_Recycling|Trash Night]] - Take out the trash and compost for Tuesday morning!
** 18:00 [[iPhone OS developer weekly meetup]] - UPDATE!!! moved to Sandbox suites pending bedbug issue. We make teh applukashuns, joyn us 2 make dem 2! [http://meetup.com/iphonedevsf meetup page]
** 18:30 [[PyClass]] - Learn how to program using the Python programming language. [NO PYCLASS MAY 9th]
** '''19:00 [[Circuit Hacking Mondays]]''' - Learn to solder! Mitch will bring kits to make cool, hackable things that you can bring home after you make them. Bring your own projects to hack! There's now an Audio Hacking Adjunct group that meets along with the Circuit Hackers.
* '''Tuesday'''
** 12:30 [[Django Study Group]] - install and use the Django Python-based web framework, Turing classroom
** 15:00 [[Linux System Administration Study Group]] wiki page - Study Linux admining in the Turing classroom.
** 18:00 [[Tastebridge]] Last Tuesday of every month: Vegan Cooking Class. Looking for people to host additional, regular classes.
** 19:00 [[german_corner|German Corner]] Learn and practice speaking German.
** 19:00 [[ruby_class|Ruby Class]] 7pm-9pm



** '''20:00 [[#Meetings|Noisebridge Weekly Meeting]]''' - Introducing new people and events to the space, general discussion, and decision making.
* '''Wednesday'''
** 18:00 [[LinuxDiscussion|Linux Discussion]] - Play with Linux in the Turing classroom.

** 18:00 [[BioBridge]] Practical microbiology - we culture microbes for baking, brewing, fermentation and other yummy purposes. Come play and learn!
** 19:00 [[SCoW]] - Sewing, Crafting, Or Whatever! Come make cool stuff with geeks.
** 19:30 [[Machine Learning]] - Teach computers to learn stuff using artificial intelligence and other techniques.
** 20:00 [[BACE Timebank]] (1st Wednesdays) - Help organize community mutual aid by trading in equal time credits. For more info email mira (at) sfbace.org or to join go to [http://timebank.sfbace.org timebank.sfbace.org].
* '''Thursday'''
** [[House_Keeping#Trash_and_Recycling|Trash Night]] - Take out the trash for Friday morning!
** 19:00 [[Noisedroid/Nights]] - An Android-Themed Co-working Night.
** '''20:00 [[Five_Minutes_of_Fame | Five Minutes of Fame]]''' (3rd Thursdays)
** '''20:00 [[In-Depth]]''' (1st Thursdays)
* '''Friday'''
** 12:30 [[Django Study Group]] - install and use the Django Python-based web framework, Turing classroom
** 15:00 [[Linux System Administration Study Group]] wiki page - Study Linux admining in the Turing classroom.
* '''Saturday'''

** 12:00-18:00 - Noisebridge Hackathon! Second Saturday Hackathon is a casual monthly event dedicated to building community and working on the space or relevant projects. This is a great time to get feedback or help on any projects you have been considering that center around the space, culture, and infrastructure of Noisebridge. You can also help with existing projects and find out ways to get involved. (2nd Saturday)
* '''Sunday'''
** 14:00 [[Schemers]] - Explore the scheme programming language & fundamental CS concepts using the classic [http://mitpress.mit.edu/sicp/ SICP].
** 14:00 [http://baha.bitrot.info/ Bay Area Hacker's Association - security meeting] (2nd Sundays)
** 15:00 [[Go]] - Playing of the Go boardgame. On nice days we often take the boards to Dolores Park and play there.
** 15:00 [[Locks!]] - Lock sport, sundays when there is demand. ( See [[locks!]] for more information. )

** 18:00 [[Spacebridge]] - Noisebridge's space program
** 19:00 [[Hack Politics]] -- 1st and 3rd Sundays of the month. Hack the political systems.
</onlyinclude>

=== Proposed Future Events and Classes ===

:'''(TBD)''': [[Probability]] - Weekly probability study group based on [http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/electrical-engineering-and-computer-science/6-041-probabilistic-systems-analysis-and-applied-probability-spring-2006/related-resources/ Fundamentals of Applied Probability Theory] by Al Drake
:'''(TBD)''': [[German]] - Learn German, all levels. 7pm beginners, 8pm advanced. RSVP 24 hours in advance for the benefit of the instructor. Events ran May-November 2009 on Mondays. Currently on hiatus. Get on the mailing list.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Mandarin Corner|Mandarin]] - Learn or practice Mandarin, all levels. Also currently on hiatus. Get on the mailing list.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Movie Night!]] - [[User:ThOMG|Thom]] wants to build community through nerdy sci-fi! (+Bill+Ted+Excellence++)
:'''(TBD)''': [[Introduction to the AVR Microcontroller]] - [[User:Mightyohm|Jeff]] and [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]] are planning an introductory class for people wanting to make cool projects with AVRs.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Basic Chemistry Lab Techniques]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Cuddle Puddle for the Economy]] - Stress-hacking with informal massage exchange.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Milk and Cookies]] - Come read your favorite selections out loud. With Milk and Cookies (and yeah, probably beer too).
:'''(TBD)''': [[Processing Workshop 2]] - [[User:Scmurray|Scott]] is interested in teaching this, and is busy thinking about what, where, when, why, and how.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Hack your Hardware]] -- We call BS on "no user-serviceable parts inside"
:'''(TBD)''': [[Homebrew Instruction Class]] - The Wort (pt 1/3)
:'''(TBD)''': [[Trip to Shooting Range]] - Field trip to a shooting range, to shoot guns. Express interest at [[Trip to Shooting Range]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Surface Mount Soldering Workshop]] - Learn how to solder cicuits with small surface mount parts. [[User:maltman23|Mitch Altman]] and Martin Bogomolni and others will show their tricks. [[User:maltman23|Mitch]] will bring hackable kits that uses surface mounts for you to solder.
:'''(TBD)''' - [[Locksport and Lockpicking]]
:'''(TBD)''' - [[Version control tutorial]]
:'''(TBD)''' - [[Foreign language learning for rocket scientists]] - I'm near-native (fool people when I try) in (French and) Japanese, and a pro trans/terpreter and will share my shortcuts (skill-order, vocab, speed/articulation, translation≅grammar). No expertise on tonal languages yet... so if you know how to remember tones or how tone-sandhi interacts with speed and/or how nuances of speaker attitude are expressed in them (what we do with rythm/inflection/sentence-intonation and stress in Eng., and with particles and ??? in e.g. Cantonese) please chime in or call me (415-608-0564) so I can convey your wisdom. [also looking for a from-scratch Arabic partner]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Getting started with Arduino]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Distributed Databases]]
:'''(TBD)''': [[Scrum Club]] - I though I'd test the waters and see if anyone was interested in a noisebridge scrum club details are here http://scrumclub.org/scrum-clubs/ if inturested hit me up twitter: @theabcasian, facebook: http://www.facebook.com/theabcasian
:'''(TBD)''': [[CNC Mill Workshop]] - Who wants to make stuff on the [[MaxNCMill]]?
:'''(TBD)''': [[Math & Science Help]] - If you would like some math, science or engineering help, I'm down to lend a hand.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Cyborg Group|Cyborg Group / Sensebridge]] - Work on projects like artificial senses. Someone needs to lead this!
:'''(TBD)''': [[OpenEEG]] - Brain tech. Has historically met on Sundays, at the behest of interested parties.
:'''(TBD)''': [[Programming_for_Poets | Programming for Poets]] - Gentle intro to programming using Processing

= Past Events =
===2011===
* '''April 13th, 19:00''' - Kombucha fermentation class with [[BioBridge]]
*'''April 7th, 20:00''' - [[In-Depth|Noisebridge: In-Depth]] Our monthly lecture and round table. This month's speaker will be Aragorn! his lecture will be "Anarchism & technology: An unbridgeable chasm"
*'''April 4th, 20:00''' - Camp KDE Party. Come and meet part of the KDE North America community and get a quick overview of this year's [http://camp.kde.org/ Camp KDE] conference. There will be beer.
*'''April 3rd, 16:00''' - NoiseCaching: Meet-up to build some geocaches, and talk about making geocoins. Then we'll head out to find some local caches and place caches we made. [http://www.geocaching.com More info about Geocaching here]
* '''March 20th, 19:00''' [[Hack Politics]] meetup -- the first meetup to figure out how we in the hacker community can effectively mobilize and create meaningful change in these interesting times
* '''March 12th, 12:00-18:00 - Noisebridge Hackathon!''' Second Saturday Hackathon is a casual monthly event dedicated to working on the space or relevant projects and building community. This is a great time to get feedback or help on any projects you have been considering that center around the space, culture, and infrastructure of Noisebridge. You can also help with existing projects and find out ways to get involved.
* '''March 10, Thursday, 19:00 - Group Grammar Clinic''' - Church Classroom - Donations gladly accepted - A clinic for grammar and writing evaluation. Please bring your web/social or technical writing for us to evaluate. Bring your laptop as well. Collaboration groupware possibly provided. (Please suggest groupware software to use if you wish). Constructive feedback from other group members is encouraged so that this clinic is a group process. - Facilitator: [[User:Owen|Owen]] (opietro@yahoo.com)
* '''March 9th, 20:00''' - Ferment and filter a mash! [[fermentation logs]]

===2010===
* '''Sunday, August 22, 19:00 CLUB-MATE DROPOFF AND TASTING PARTY''' Nick Farr will be in town to drop off Club-Mate ordered by San Franciscans!
* '''June 5th, 12:00-19:00 - [[NoiseBridgeRehab]]''' - Help make the space more usable and accessible! Noisebridge needs your help!
* '''June 5th, 16:00-20:00 - [[Science For Juggalos]]''' - Science Fair in front of the Warfield Theater teaching magnetism to Juggalos
* '''June 6th, 15:00 - [[AVC Meetup]]''' - Entrepreneurial bonding & matchmaking
* '''June 9th, 21:00 - Your liver supports Noisebridge''' - Come to Elixir @ 16th & Guerrero anytime after 21:00 and drink, drink, drink! 50% of tips go to Noisebridge
* '''February 27th, 20:00 - [[Hacker EPROM]]''' - Noisebridge's first prom! Nice tie and a (robot) date required. We will have a DJ and punch.
* '''February 24th, 19:00, Wednesday - Joris Peels, of [http://www.shapeways.com Shapeways]''', and expert on 3D printing, will give a [[ShaperwaysPresentation | talk and demonstration]] at Noisebridge!.
* '''February 23rd, 18:00 - Cleaning day''' - Come and help clean Noisebridge, because everyone loves a clean hack space.
* '''February 12th, 21:00 - visit from Steve Jackson'''. Game designer [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steve_Jackson_%28US_game_designer%29 Steve Jackson], founder of Steve Jackson Games, will visit Noisebridge.
* '''January 27th, 18:00-20:00 - [[beatrixjar event|Circuit Bending Workshop]]''' - [http://www.beatrixjar.com/ Beatrix*JAR] (contact [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] for more info)
* '''January 27th, 20:00-22:00 - [[beatrixjar event|Circuit Bending Performance]]''' - [http://www.beatrixjar.com/ Beatrix*JAR] - "Celebrate a night of new sound that will change your idea of music forever!"
* '''January 25th, 19:30 - [[Bag Porn]]''' - What's in your bag?
* '''January 20th, 19:00-21:00 - [http://groups.google.com/group/bacat/about Bay Categories & Types]''' - Categories, monoids, monads, functors and more! Held in the Alonzo Church classroom.
* '''January 20th, 19:00 - [[User Experience Book Club SF]]''' - Our book this month is "A Theory of Fun for Game Design" by Raph Koster - http://is.gd/6sEqw (meets in Turing)
* '''January 21st, 20:00 - [[Five Minutes of Fame]]''' - Monthly set of lightning talks on diverse topics
* '''January 22nd, 17:00 - [[CleaningParty| Cleaning Party]]''' - Come help clean up Noisebridge! Awsum fun!
* ...January 14th,16th, and 17th 1:00- ??? Build Out day for kitchen/bathroom/laundry bring yourself and a good attitude, learn a few things as well
* '''January 15th, 18:00 - [[CNC_Mill_Workshop]]''' - Learn to use the CNC mill for 2D engraving and circuit board routing
* Thursdays 17:00 [[ASL Group|American Sign Language]] - Learn how to talk without using your voice (or just come chat in ASL). [http://whenisgood.net/noisebridge/asl/generic click to reschedule]

===2009===
* '''November 18th, 19:30''' - [[Dorkbot_2009_11_18|Dorkbot]]
* '''November 19th, 18:00''' - [[Mesh meetup]]
* '''November 19th, 20:00''' - [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
* '''November 20th, 18:00''' - Loud Objects [http://www.flickr.com/photos/createdigitalmedia/3428249036/ Noise Toy workshop].
* '''November 20th, 20:00''' - Performance by [http://www.loudobjects.com/ Loud Objects], (featuring Tristan Perich and Lesley Flanigan) and [http://www.myspace.com/jibkidder Jib Kidder].
:'''2009-11-05''' - [http://www.server-sky.com/ Server Sky presentation: Internet and Computation in Orbit] by Keith Lofstrom
:'''2009-11-05''' - [[Mesh meetup]]
:'''2009-11-02''' - [[French]] book club meeting to discuss [http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/2842612892/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance Une Si Longue Lettre]
: ''' October 1st, 18:00''' - [[Wireless_Mesh_Network_Meetup | Mesh wireless meetup]]
: ''' October 1st, 19:00''' - [http://groups.google.com/group/bacat Bay Area Categories and Types]
: '''2009-10-03''' [[Year 1 Open Hacker House]]
:'''Friday''': [[CrazyCryptoNight]] - Discussion of cryptography for beginners through experts. 6-???
:'''Sunday''' : [[OpenEEG | OpenEEG Hacking]] Sundays, at 3-5pm.
:'''Tuesday''': [[Haskell/Haschool]] - Learn Haskell with Jason Dusek. 6PM - 7:30PM, from May until we're all experts.
:'''Wednesday''': [[Adobe_Lightroom|Adobe Lightroom]] - Become a more organized photographer. Weekly class (mostly held off site).
:'''Thursday''': [[Professional VFX Compositing With Adobe After Effects]] - Taught by [[User:SFSlim|Aaron Muszalski]]. 7:30PM - 10PM, most Thursdays in May & June & ? (click through dammit)
:'''2009-09-17''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] 3D Edition
:'''2009-09-17''': [[Wireless Mesh Network Meetup | Mesh wireless meetup]]
:'''2009-08-20''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] One Dee Edition
:'''2009-07-16''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] Zero Dee
:'''2009-07-02 - 2009-07-05''': [http://toorcamp.org Toorcamp]
:'''2009-07-01''': Noisedroid meeting to discuss location logging on Android platform (and other stuff too, I'm sure)
:'''2009-06-30''': [[Powerbocking Class|Powerbocking class]]
:'''2009-06-30''': "Suing Telemarketers for Fun and Profit" (Toorcamp talk preview)
:'''2009-06-28''': "Meditation for Hackers" (Toorcamp workshop preview)
:'''2009-06-18''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
:'''2009-06-15''': [[Eagle Workshop]] Session two of the Eagle CAD workshop.
:'''2009-06-13''': [[RoboGames 2009]] Noisebridge had a booth staffed by vounteers, great fun!
:'''2009-05-21''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
:'''2009-04-27''': [[EagleCAD workshop]] -- learn to use this CAD tool for printed circuit board design
:'''2009-04-16''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]] April showers & flowers edition
:'''2009-04-11''': [[RFID Hacking]] weekend workshop (this event moved from the original March date)
:'''2009-04-05''': [[First aid and CPR class]] Learning how to not only not die, but also reduce scarring!
:'''2009-04-03''': [[Sudo pop]] 2PM and on. Making the first batch of a Noisebridge label yerba mate-niated rootbrew, gratis and DIY
:'''2009-03-26''': [[OpenEEG | OpenEEG Hacking]] first meet up for this new group: 8 pm
:'''2009-03-19''': [[Five Minutes of Fame]]
:'''2009-03-12''': [[OpenBTS and GSM]] talk by David Burgess
:'''2009-02-14''': [[Open Heart Workshop]] Valentine's Day blinkyheart soldering party!
:'''2009-02-13''': [[Time-t_Party|<tt>time_t</tt> Party]] to celebrate 1,234,567,890 since the Unix epoch.
:'''2009-02-09''': [[Spanish learning at 8:30]]
:'''2009-02-05''': [[PGP Key Workshop]]
:'''2009-01-31''': [[Locksport and Lockpicking]]

===2008===
:'''2008-12-27''': [[25C3]] Chaos Computer Congress in Berlin
:'''2008-12-20 & 21''': [[Creme Brulee]] Workshop on creating a french dessert, with bonus propane torch.
:'''2008-12-17 20:00''': [[Machine Learning]] Birds-of-a-feather
:'''2008-11-24''': [[Circuit Hacking Monday]] circuit design workshop
:'''2008-11-21, 7pm''':[[Milk and Cookies]] -- [[User:Dmolnar|David Molnar]] hosts Milk and Cookies at 83C. Bring a short 5-7minute thing to read to others. Bring a potluck cookie/snack/drink if you like. David will bring milk and cookies.
:'''2008-11-17, 7:30pm''': [[Basic Bicycle Maintain]] - [[User:rubin110|Rubin]] and [[User:rigel|rigel]] hate it when we see a bike that isn't maintained. Screechy chains and clacking derailleur can go to hell. Basic bike tune up, sharing the smarts on simple things you can do at home to make your ride suck a whole lot less.
:'''2008-11-16, 5:00pm''': [[RepRap Soldering Party]] - help assemble RepRap! RSVPs required on wiki! [[User:Adi|adi]]
:'''2008-11-16, 3:00pm''': [[Oscilloscopes]] - Learn how to use this versatile tool to test electronic circuits. Maximum 6 slots, please sign up ahead of time! [[User:dstaff|dstaff]]
:'''2008-10-31''': [[Halloween Open House]] - NoiseBridge's own [[PPPC]] threw an awesome open house/halloween gala. Post pictures if you got 'em!
:'''2008-10-25''': [[Soldering Workshop]] and Pumpkin Hackin' - Learn to solder for total newbies (or learn to solder better!), including surface mount. Additionally, carve your halloween pumpkins and enjoy some experimental pumpkin pie and/or soup.
:'''2008-10-07''': (tuesday before meeting) - Etch a circuit board. I'll be trying a photo resist etching and a basic printed mask etching. This is step 1/3 for a project called "annoying USB thingie" which will execute pre-defined keystrokes by sneaking a tiny USB dongle onto a victim^h^h^h^h^h buddy's computer.
:'''2008-09-13''': [[Processing Workshop]] — Learn this very easy-to-use programming language! - [[Processing Workshop Report]]
:'''2008-02-16''': [[Brain Machine Workshop|Brain Machine Making Workshop]]: Our first hardware sprint!

Maker Faire 2011

2011-05-14T20:10:30Z

Rolfvw: /* Noisebridge booth */

[[Category:Events]]
== Noisebridge booth ==
[http://makerfaire.com/bayarea/2011/] is May 21 and 22 at the San Mateo County Expo Center. If you'd like to help set up/run the booth this year, please add your contact info below. NB should be getting 12-15 free passes for volunteers who work at least a 4-hour shift. First come, first served! 
 
[[User:maltman23|Mitch]] will be setting up a huge '''[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Maker_Faire_2011_HHA Hardware Hacking Area]''' again this year. If the NB volunteer quota is full, consider working at HHA - you're free to mill about once your shift is done. The HHA wiki also has good directions to the Faire.
 
Rikke, Rolf, Sean C, and others will be showing off the BioBoard, our project for the Global Hackerspace Challenge that recently finished. We expect this will be part of the Noisebridge booth but probably on a separate table. If all goes well, we will have a large vat of Kombucha with various sensor probes immersed in it, and showing some live graphs of what is going on.

====Projects/Items Displayed in the Booth====

This is the section where we outline projects, demos, talks, etc. and when/how often they might occur.

If you'd like to bring something to show in the Noisebridge booth, please list it here and contact emprameen at gmail.com

capacative touch suitcase - a suitcase with LEDs inside that light up when you touch it. -rachelyra

====Other Items to Bring====
* NB flyers
* NB stickers
* NB t-shirts?
* easel
* whiteboard
* trashbags
* snacks for booth
* 3 or 4 camp chairs that can be folded up when booth is crowded

== Volunteer Sign-up And Time Scheduling!==
After adding your name and time slot, please email me (emprameen AT gmail DOT com) as soon as you can with the following information:
1) The name (first and last) you want to give to the Maker Faire people when you arrive for your free "credentials" (as they're calling the passes for volunteers).
2) When you want to start working your 4 hour shift.

Folks who want to help staff the booth:
Elise,
Adit,
Al,
Rikke,
Stefano,
Rameen,
Danny
Ken & Max,
Sean C,
[[User:rachel|Rachel M]],
Rachelyra

====Setup Friday May 20th====
Setup times for the venue: 10am-8pm

People who have agreed to help with transportation:
Stafano, [[User:rachel|Rachel McConnell]], Ken & Max

Can help with setup if needed: rachelyra

super awesome Makers-only programming/reception : approx 2-8pm friday may 20

====Planned Transport Cars ====

[[User:StefanoMaffulli|Stef]] has offered a truck to transport people and materials.
[[User:turbclnt|Sean C]] can bring the focus. Its not too huge, but it holds a lot :).

====Set-up Saturday May 21st====
Set-up times: Saturday, May 21 7:30 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

====Event Saturday May 21st====
* Ken & Max Available in the afternoon
* [[User:Lizzard|Liz]] & [[User:malaclyps|Danny]]
* [[User:rubin110|Rubin]]

====Event Sunday May 22nd====
Ken & Max Available all day
* John Gentilin around 12:00 for rest of the day, friend of Ken & Max
* [[User:rubin110|Rubin]] - Available after 2ish, greeting someone at SFO around noon.
* Rachelyra, not sure when but much of the day.

====Take down Sunday May 22nd====
''If you have a car that can transport projects, please state so''

* Ken & Max can help with a car if necessary
* [[User:rubin110|Rubin]] - I've got a bike and some panniers

==Members with Booths at Maker Faire==
"Going to Maker Faire with another group? Let us know where you'll be!"

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T07:00:12Z

Rolfvw: /* Arduino Sample Code */

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because there is one more thing we need to do-- that is, to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

=Arduino Sample Code=
Here are two Arduino sketches that implement the BioBoard Protocol.
The first simply reads the temperature probe.
The second reads from two probes and outputs data packets with
their values.

*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/sketches/temperature_sensor_NEW-110429a.zip] temperature_sensor_NEW-110429a.zip - sketch that uses TC probe only
*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/sketches/bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip] bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip - sketch that uses TC and NIR probes

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T06:59:18Z

Rolfvw: /* Arduino Sample Code */

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because there is one more thing we need to do-- that is, to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

=Arduino Sample Code=
Here are two Arduino sketches.
The first simply reads the temperature probe.
The second is an Arduino sketch that reads from two probes and outputs data packets with
their values, using the BioBoard Protocol.

*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/sketches/temperature_sensor_NEW-110429a.zip] temperature_sensor_NEW-110429a.zip - sketch that uses TC probe only
*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/sketches/bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip] bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip - sketch that uses TC and NIR probes

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T06:52:16Z

Rolfvw:

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because there is one more thing we need to do-- that is, to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

=Arduino Sample Code=
Here is an Arduino sketch that reads from two probes and outputs data packets with
their values, using the BioBoard Protocol.

*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/sketches/bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip] bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip - sketch that uses TC and NIR probes

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T06:51:06Z

Rolfvw: /* Arduino Sample Code */

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because there is one more thing we need to do-- that is, to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

=Arduino Sample Code=
Here is an Arduino sketch that reads from two probes and outputs data packets with
their values, using the BioBoard Protocol.

*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip] bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip - sketch that uses TC and NIR probes

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T06:49:29Z

Rolfvw:

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because there is one more thing we need to do-- that is, to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

=Arduino Sample Code=
Here is an Arduino sketch that reads from two probes and outputs data packets with
their values.

*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip] bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip - sketch that uses TC and NIR probes

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T06:48:37Z

Rolfvw:

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because there is one more thing we need to do-- that is, to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

==Arduino Sample Code==
Here is an Arduino sketch that reads from two probes and outputs data packets with
their values.

*[http://www.tokyostation.com/projects/bioboard/bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip] bioboard_all_sensors-110502a.zip - sketch that uses TC and NIR probes

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T04:35:57Z

Rolfvw: /* Getting Started */

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T04:33:06Z

Rolfvw: /* Getting Started */

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because we first need to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@NIR:0:0.99$
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube!

Also, you might have noticed that there are more TC packets than NIR packets.
There is no restriction on how often each probe reports its data. In fact, the Arduino sketch, depending on how it is coded, will determine how often each type of data packet is output.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T04:19:13Z

Rolfvw: /* Getting Started */

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino, with all its cool sensors connected, to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
great data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
the Arduino sends the following packet:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

Here is a list of tags that we currently use:
*TC temperature in degrees C
*NIR near-infrared transmission (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00, where 1.0 is full transmission)
*PH pH (the range is from 0.0 [strongest acid] to 14.0 [strongest base])
*DO dissolved oxygen (the range is from 0.00 to 1.00)

==Getting Started==
All protocols need a way to get started. The BioBoard protocol is no different.

For starters, we first output a packet that is different than any of the other packets.
You'll notice that we also include a version number.
<code>
!BIOBOARD:0.1
</code>

Immediately after the "starter packet" we output the project name. This can be anything, but you shouldn't use any of the reserved characters described above. But, letters, numbers, and spaces are fine.

<code>
@PROJ:TESTLIQUID5$
</code>

Ok, we are still not outputting any data packets, because we first need to declare which probes are active.

<code>
@PR:TC:0$
@PR:NIR:0$
@PREND$
</code>

Here, we have declared two probes, TC probe 0, and NIR probe 0.
At the end of the declarations, we output a PREND tag.

Finally, we are ready to output data packets! This is the fun part of the protocol.

<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
@TC:0:25.25$
@TC:0:24.75$
@TC:0:24.25$
@TC:0:23.0$
</code>

As you can see, these packets seem to indicate that the temperature is dropping.
Maybe an ice cube was dropped near the probe? Actually, we just made up the numbers,
but it might as well have been an ice cube.

Finally, the BioBoard protocol is line-oriented, meaning that a newline or carriage return is sent after each packet. This makes it easier to view the data or to make up sample data in a simple text editor.
Also, the communication speed is 19,200 baud. The Arduino, including older models, can easily handle this speed. Of course, this can be changed,
but it would need to be adjusted on the receiving end as well.
Remember, a protocol is an agreement between two sides of a communication link!

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T04:09:34Z

Rolfvw:

BioBoard/Documentation/Arduino protocol

2011-05-04T03:43:15Z

Rolfvw: Created page with '=The BioBoard Protocol= In order for the Arduino with all its sensors connected to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. …'

=The BioBoard Protocol=
In order for the Arduino with all its sensors connected to communicate to the outside world, there needs to be an agreement on how that data should look. Otherwise, all that
interesting data would be lost. Hence, the BioBoard Protocol.

==An Example==
The best way to explain the details of the protocol is with some examples.
If we want to tell the server that the current temperature is 25.5 degrees C,
we send the following packet from the Arduino:
<code>
@TC:0:25.5$
</code>
TC is the tag for "temperature in degrees C". It is a floating point number (i.e. has a decimal point).
Besides that, the rest is really just syntactic sugar.
Here are some simple rules:
*All packets begin with @ and end with $ characters.
*Fields are separated with a : character.
*After the @ character, is a tag for the type of packet. The tags are typically in all capitals.
*If the tag indicates a type of probe or sensor, it is followed by a probe number. This is always an integer.

File:PH-probe-schematic.jpg

2011-05-04T03:05:41Z

Rolfvw: pH amplifier schematic

pH amplifier schematic

File:DTS-schematic.jpg

2011-05-04T03:01:46Z

Rolfvw: Digital Temperature Sensor schematic

Digital Temperature Sensor schematic

File:Thermistor-schematic.jpg

2011-05-04T02:59:30Z

Rolfvw: Thermistor schematic

Thermistor schematic

BioBoard/Documentation/pH

2011-05-03T06:42:44Z

Rolfvw: /* How to build it */

=Introduction to pH=
A pH measurement of a medium is a measure of how acidic or how basic it is. Lemon juice or vinegar for example are acidic, whereas bleach or sodium bicarbonate are basic (the opposite of acidic).
pH can be imagined as a measure of the presence of hydrogen ions or H+ in the medium or the ability of the medium to produce H+ ions. An acid produces H+ ions whereas a base absorbs H+ ions.
In more technical terms pH is defined as a negative decimal logarithm of the hydrogen ion activity in a solution. Using this definition, a pH value of 7 corresponds to a neutral solution, neither acid nor basic. A pH value < 7 corresponds to an acidic medium, and a pH value > 7 corresponds to a basic solution. Anyways, the reason you care about all this is that biological systems are very sensitive the pH of their environment. Whether or not fish survive in a lake or whether your fermentation goes well for your latest beer batch depends on the pH. So it it is kinda important. You can read a lot more about pH by googling around.

=Building a pH probe=

==Glass electrode==
I can across a paper where they described how to make a home made pH probe using a Christmas glass ornament and some simple materials. This is a great way to make a pH probe on the cheap at home.

===What you need===
So what you'll need to make this thing are:

1. A Christmas glass bulb, the smaller, the better

2. Some household bleach

3. some plastic tubing, plastic straw or similar

4. some epoxy glue or even better, aquarium glue

5. Some silver wire. I got some from my neighborhood hobby store

6. Potassium chloride, this is available as low sodium salt or as vitamin capsules. Very easy to find.

7. Water

In addition to the glass pH probe, you'll need a reference probe. The pH probe by itself is only a half cell. In order to complete the circuit, you'll need the other half of the cell. The trick with the reference electrode is that it must provide a steady voltage, so that the pH can be measured. Otherwise your measurements will jump all over the place and you will never get a result.

To make the reference electrode, you will need:

1. A piece of plastic tubing or straw

2. Some silver wire (see above)

3. Potassium chloride (see above)

4. Water

5. Agar Agar - from the supermarket

===How to build it===
[[File:DIY-pH-electrode-110501_500.jpg|200px|thumb|right|DIY glass pH electrode]]
1. To make the glass electrode, you first need to remove all the coating and junk that they use to decorate it. This is accomplished boiling it in bleach for a couple of hours. You'll notice the the covering peel off. Let it cool, and carefully take it out and scrape off the paint. If it is still difficult to remove, dunk it back in the bleach in and boil it some more. eventually it will all come off. You should have a clear glass bulb. It must then be conditioned. I did this by soaking it in a dilute vinegar solution for a couple of hours, followed by dipping in dilute bleach solution for another couple of hours, and then rinsing it in water. When not in use, the glass bulb must be kept wet at all times. Just leave it in jar of water.

2. Now to make the rest of the probe I used a plastic pipette, but a piece of plastic tubing, glass tubing or plastic straw of the right size should work fine. Cut the tubing to the desired length and glue it to the open end of the glass bulb. This is basically the probe housing.

3. To make the silver chloride wire, simply dunk some silver wire into bleach for a few hours. I did this overnight. You'll notice the silver wire turn brownish. This is the coating of silver chloride (AgCl) that develops on the surface of the wire.

4. Insert the silver chloride wire into the probe, and fill it with saturated potassium chloride solution (KCl). To make a saturated solution, keep dissolving potassium chloride in water until no more disolves and you have some KCl crystals hanging around.

5. Thats pretty much it! you have a pH probe. I capped mine off with a rubber stopper to keep liquid in. And you should have something that looks like this:

The reference electrode. Making the reference electrode was much harder. Not because it was hard to make, but because there is very little written about it. Couple of nice posts on the web were helpful in helping me hack one together.

1. The big trick with the reference probe is the fact that it is also in contact with the medium of interest via a porous membrane of some sort that is not glass. Glass is used to measure pH. the reference just provide a steady voltage for the measurement. Most commercial electrodes available use vycor tubing. This stuff is a little expensive and not the easiest thing to come by.

2. A cleaver alternative was to make a membrane out of agar agar and some potassium chloride.

To prepare this, dissolve up some agar agar in KCl solution. Cut a piece of glass tubing, seal off one end and dip in the hot solution. Let cool and set. I then dipped a small piece of cotton on silver chloride and inserted it into the tube. Top off the rest of the tube with agar solution.

3. Similarly to the pH probe, insert a piece of silver chloride wire into the the length of the tube but above the cotton piece. Let it sit for a while and the agar should solidify. you then have a functional reference electrode. It should look something like this:

===Things to keep in mind===
1. The agar in the reference elctrode may not withstand harsh pH environments (very acid or very basic).

2. The agar melts at ! 80C

3. Be careful with the type of tubing used to make these probes. Some plastics such as PVC may not survive harsh pH conditions.

==Membrane electrode==

===What you need===

===How to build it===

===Things to keep in mind===

==pH amplifier circuit==

===List of components===

===Assembly===

=Interfacing and measuring=

=Calibrating a home-built pH probe=

==Glass electrode==

==Membrane electrode==

=Making it cooler=

=Geeking out=

=Links=

BioBoard/Documentation/pH

2011-05-03T06:42:07Z

Rolfvw: /* How to build it */

=Introduction to pH=
A pH measurement of a medium is a measure of how acidic or how basic it is. Lemon juice or vinegar for example are acidic, whereas bleach or sodium bicarbonate are basic (the opposite of acidic).
pH can be imagined as a measure of the presence of hydrogen ions or H+ in the medium or the ability of the medium to produce H+ ions. An acid produces H+ ions whereas a base absorbs H+ ions.
In more technical terms pH is defined as a negative decimal logarithm of the hydrogen ion activity in a solution. Using this definition, a pH value of 7 corresponds to a neutral solution, neither acid nor basic. A pH value < 7 corresponds to an acidic medium, and a pH value > 7 corresponds to a basic solution. Anyways, the reason you care about all this is that biological systems are very sensitive the pH of their environment. Whether or not fish survive in a lake or whether your fermentation goes well for your latest beer batch depends on the pH. So it it is kinda important. You can read a lot more about pH by googling around.

=Building a pH probe=

==Glass electrode==
I can across a paper where they described how to make a home made pH probe using a Christmas glass ornament and some simple materials. This is a great way to make a pH probe on the cheap at home.

===What you need===
So what you'll need to make this thing are:

1. A Christmas glass bulb, the smaller, the better

2. Some household bleach

3. some plastic tubing, plastic straw or similar

4. some epoxy glue or even better, aquarium glue

5. Some silver wire. I got some from my neighborhood hobby store

6. Potassium chloride, this is available as low sodium salt or as vitamin capsules. Very easy to find.

7. Water

In addition to the glass pH probe, you'll need a reference probe. The pH probe by itself is only a half cell. In order to complete the circuit, you'll need the other half of the cell. The trick with the reference electrode is that it must provide a steady voltage, so that the pH can be measured. Otherwise your measurements will jump all over the place and you will never get a result.

To make the reference electrode, you will need:

1. A piece of plastic tubing or straw

2. Some silver wire (see above)

3. Potassium chloride (see above)

4. Water

5. Agar Agar - from the supermarket

===How to build it===
[[File: DIY-pH-electrode-110501_500.jpg|200px|thumb|right|DIY glass pH electrode]]
1. To make the glass electrode, you first need to remove all the coating and junk that they use to decorate it. This is accomplished boiling it in bleach for a couple of hours. You'll notice the the covering peel off. Let it cool, and carefully take it out and scrape off the paint. If it is still difficult to remove, dunk it back in the bleach in and boil it some more. eventually it will all come off. You should have a clear glass bulb. It must then be conditioned. I did this by soaking it in a dilute vinegar solution for a couple of hours, followed by dipping in dilute bleach solution for another couple of hours, and then rinsing it in water. When not in use, the glass bulb must be kept wet at all times. Just leave it in jar of water.

2. Now to make the rest of the probe I used a plastic pipette, but a piece of plastic tubing, glass tubing or plastic straw of the right size should work fine. Cut the tubing to the desired length and glue it to the open end of the glass bulb. This is basically the probe housing.

3. To make the silver chloride wire, simply dunk some silver wire into bleach for a few hours. I did this overnight. You'll notice the silver wire turn brownish. This is the coating of silver chloride (AgCl) that develops on the surface of the wire.

4. Insert the silver chloride wire into the probe, and fill it with saturated potassium chloride solution (KCl). To make a saturated solution, keep dissolving potassium chloride in water until no more disolves and you have some KCl crystals hanging around.

5. Thats pretty much it! you have a pH probe. I capped mine off with a rubber stopper to keep liquid in. And you should have something that looks like this:

The reference electrode. Making the reference electrode was much harder. Not because it was hard to make, but because there is very little written about it. Couple of nice posts on the web were helpful in helping me hack one together.

1. The big trick with the reference probe is the fact that it is also in contact with the medium of interest via a porous membrane of some sort that is not glass. Glass is used to measure pH. the reference just provide a steady voltage for the measurement. Most commercial electrodes available use vycor tubing. This stuff is a little expensive and not the easiest thing to come by.

2. A cleaver alternative was to make a membrane out of agar agar and some potassium chloride.

To prepare this, dissolve up some agar agar in KCl solution. Cut a piece of glass tubing, seal off one end and dip in the hot solution. Let cool and set. I then dipped a small piece of cotton on silver chloride and inserted it into the tube. Top off the rest of the tube with agar solution.

3. Similarly to the pH probe, insert a piece of silver chloride wire into the the length of the tube but above the cotton piece. Let it sit for a while and the agar should solidify. you then have a functional reference electrode. It should look something like this:

===Things to keep in mind===
1. The agar in the reference elctrode may not withstand harsh pH environments (very acid or very basic).

2. The agar melts at ! 80C

3. Be careful with the type of tubing used to make these probes. Some plastics such as PVC may not survive harsh pH conditions.

==Membrane electrode==

===What you need===

===How to build it===

===Things to keep in mind===

==pH amplifier circuit==

===List of components===

===Assembly===

=Interfacing and measuring=

=Calibrating a home-built pH probe=

==Glass electrode==

==Membrane electrode==

=Making it cooler=

=Geeking out=

=Links=

BioBoard/Documentation/pH

2011-05-03T06:41:12Z

Rolfvw: /* How to build it */

=Introduction to pH=
A pH measurement of a medium is a measure of how acidic or how basic it is. Lemon juice or vinegar for example are acidic, whereas bleach or sodium bicarbonate are basic (the opposite of acidic).
pH can be imagined as a measure of the presence of hydrogen ions or H+ in the medium or the ability of the medium to produce H+ ions. An acid produces H+ ions whereas a base absorbs H+ ions.
In more technical terms pH is defined as a negative decimal logarithm of the hydrogen ion activity in a solution. Using this definition, a pH value of 7 corresponds to a neutral solution, neither acid nor basic. A pH value < 7 corresponds to an acidic medium, and a pH value > 7 corresponds to a basic solution. Anyways, the reason you care about all this is that biological systems are very sensitive the pH of their environment. Whether or not fish survive in a lake or whether your fermentation goes well for your latest beer batch depends on the pH. So it it is kinda important. You can read a lot more about pH by googling around.

=Building a pH probe=

==Glass electrode==
I can across a paper where they described how to make a home made pH probe using a Christmas glass ornament and some simple materials. This is a great way to make a pH probe on the cheap at home.

===What you need===
So what you'll need to make this thing are:

1. A Christmas glass bulb, the smaller, the better

2. Some household bleach

3. some plastic tubing, plastic straw or similar

4. some epoxy glue or even better, aquarium glue

5. Some silver wire. I got some from my neighborhood hobby store

6. Potassium chloride, this is available as low sodium salt or as vitamin capsules. Very easy to find.

7. Water

In addition to the glass pH probe, you'll need a reference probe. The pH probe by itself is only a half cell. In order to complete the circuit, you'll need the other half of the cell. The trick with the reference electrode is that it must provide a steady voltage, so that the pH can be measured. Otherwise your measurements will jump all over the place and you will never get a result.

To make the reference electrode, you will need:

1. A piece of plastic tubing or straw

2. Some silver wire (see above)

3. Potassium chloride (see above)

4. Water

5. Agar Agar - from the supermarket

===How to build it===
[[File:File.png|200px|thumb|right|DIY glass pH electrode]]
1. To make the glass electrode, you first need to remove all the coating and junk that they use to decorate it. This is accomplished boiling it in bleach for a couple of hours. You'll notice the the covering peel off. Let it cool, and carefully take it out and scrape off the paint. If it is still difficult to remove, dunk it back in the bleach in and boil it some more. eventually it will all come off. You should have a clear glass bulb. It must then be conditioned. I did this by soaking it in a dilute vinegar solution for a couple of hours, followed by dipping in dilute bleach solution for another couple of hours, and then rinsing it in water. When not in use, the glass bulb must be kept wet at all times. Just leave it in jar of water.

2. Now to make the rest of the probe I used a plastic pipette, but a piece of plastic tubing, glass tubing or plastic straw of the right size should work fine. Cut the tubing to the desired length and glue it to the open end of the glass bulb. This is basically the probe housing.

3. To make the silver chloride wire, simply dunk some silver wire into bleach for a few hours. I did this overnight. You'll notice the silver wire turn brownish. This is the coating of silver chloride (AgCl) that develops on the surface of the wire.

4. Insert the silver chloride wire into the probe, and fill it with saturated potassium chloride solution (KCl). To make a saturated solution, keep dissolving potassium chloride in water until no more disolves and you have some KCl crystals hanging around.

5. Thats pretty much it! you have a pH probe. I capped mine off with a rubber stopper to keep liquid in. And you should have something that looks like this:

The reference electrode. Making the reference electrode was much harder. Not because it was hard to make, but because there is very little written about it. Couple of nice posts on the web were helpful in helping me hack one together.

1. The big trick with the reference probe is the fact that it is also in contact with the medium of interest via a porous membrane of some sort that is not glass. Glass is used to measure pH. the reference just provide a steady voltage for the measurement. Most commercial electrodes available use vycor tubing. This stuff is a little expensive and not the easiest thing to come by.

2. A cleaver alternative was to make a membrane out of agar agar and some potassium chloride.

To prepare this, dissolve up some agar agar in KCl solution. Cut a piece of glass tubing, seal off one end and dip in the hot solution. Let cool and set. I then dipped a small piece of cotton on silver chloride and inserted it into the tube. Top off the rest of the tube with agar solution.

3. Similarly to the pH probe, insert a piece of silver chloride wire into the the length of the tube but above the cotton piece. Let it sit for a while and the agar should solidify. you then have a functional reference electrode. It should look something like this:

===Things to keep in mind===
1. The agar in the reference elctrode may not withstand harsh pH environments (very acid or very basic).

2. The agar melts at ! 80C

3. Be careful with the type of tubing used to make these probes. Some plastics such as PVC may not survive harsh pH conditions.

==Membrane electrode==

===What you need===

===How to build it===

===Things to keep in mind===

==pH amplifier circuit==

===List of components===

===Assembly===

=Interfacing and measuring=

=Calibrating a home-built pH probe=

==Glass electrode==

==Membrane electrode==

=Making it cooler=

=Geeking out=

=Links=

File:DIY-pH-electrode-110501 500.jpg

2011-05-03T06:38:44Z

Rolfvw: DIY glass pH electrode

DIY glass pH electrode