Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

Stove

2014-05-06T00:17:33Z

JohnyRadio:

Wikipedia[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooker] claims:
An '''induction cooker''' uses a type of induction heating for cooking. It is chiefly distinguished from other common forms of stovetop cooking by the fact that the heat is generated directly in the cooking vessel, as opposed to being generated in the stovetop by electrical coils or burning gas. To be used on an induction cooker, a cooking vessel must be made of a ferromagnetic material and be electrically conductive. 

In an induction stovetop, a coil of copper wire is placed underneath the cooking pot. An alternating current|alterna<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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ting electric current is made to flow through the coil, which produces an oscillating magnetic field which creates heat in the cooking vessel over it in two different ways. Principally, it induces an electric current in the pot, which produces resistive heating proportional to the square of the current and to the electrical resistance of the vessel. Secondly, it also creates magnetic hysteresis losses in the pot due to its ferromagnetic nature. The first effect dominates: hysteresis losses typically account for less than ten percent of the total heat generated.[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/an/AN/AN-9012.pdf] 

Induction cookers are faster and more energy-efficient than traditional electric cooktops; moreover, they allow instant control of cooking energy, which no energy source other than gas offers. Because induction heats the cooking vessel itself, the possibility of burn injury is significantly less than with other methods: only skin contact with the cooking vessel itself (or, when high heat has been used, the stovetop for a while after the vessel has been removed) can cause harm. There are not the high temperatures of flames or red-hot electric heating elements found in traditional cooking equipment, which generates heat independent of the cooking vessel. Further, induction cookers do not themselves warm the surrounding air, resulting in further energy efficiencies. 

It is possible to build an induction cooker that works with any pot that conducts electricity (a pot made of any metal, but not of an electrically insulating material such as glass or ceramic), even if the pot is not ferromagnetic, but the increased permeability of an iron or steel pot makes the system substantially more practical by increasing the inductance seen by the drive coil and by decreasing the skin depth of the current in the pot, which increases the AC resistance for the I2R heating.[http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/iel5/7757/21322/00989392.pdf?arnumber=989392] Most practical induction cookers are designed for ferromagnetic pots; users are advised that the cooker will work only with pots to which a magnet will stick. 

Since heat is being generated by an induced electric current, the unit can detect whether cookware is present (or whether its contents have boiled dry) by monitoring the voltage drop caused by resistance in the circuit (which reflects how much energy is being absorbed). That allows such functions as keeping a pot at minimal boil or automatically turning an element off when cookware is removed from it.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

No sleeping at Noisebridge

2014-05-06T00:17:30Z

JohnyRadio:

==Noisebridge is not your home, it is your hackspace==
[[File:Sleeping1.jpg|right]]
There is broad consensus that living at Noisebridge or sleeping overnight is not excellent. That means you should just not do it. Noisebridge is a place for hacking on creative uses of technology, materials, and/or consumables; not somewhere to live or crash out at. Our lease prohibits people from living here, and people living at Noisebridge reduce its utility for those who want to hack.

If you are sleeping at Noisebridge, anyone else present in the space has the complete right to ask you to wake up and hack or else request that you leave. As a community, we agree that it is not acceptable to argue, to be rude, or to go back to sleep after someone has asked that you <gallery mode="packed-hover">
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either wake up and hack or else leave. '''If''' you fail to wake up and hack or leave when asked, you should expect to have your behavior discussed at a [[community meeting]], and you could subject yourself to becoming permanently banned by [[consensus]] from the space. Unfortunately, there have been [[86 | notorious instances]] of this happening in the past for persons who have chosen to exhibit this type of behaviour.

People who sleep at Noisebridge may find themselves awakened by the [[Rooster Brigade]] or spontaneous renditions of the [[Hackernationale]]

If you'd like to talk about the issue of sleeping, please join Noisebridge's discuss list at: https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/noisebridge-discuss

==Resources instead of living at Noisebridge==

The nature of creative work means it doesn't always pan out financially. This is pretty serious in San Francisco due to its high cost of living. Noisebridge offers [[starving hackers|a list of resources for starving hackers]], both on dead trees in meatspace and on this wiki.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Signage

2014-05-06T00:17:26Z

JohnyRadio:

Signs and [[labels]] are some of the most advanced technology at Noisebridge. They allow users to communicate across the fourth dimension.

Signage is a great way to show people how things work or (more importantly) where they can get more information.
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'''Most important thing:''' Please print out sign and cover it with clear mailing tape so that it lasts. It's better to make one good sign that lasts instead of several cheap ones. Please don't write or add your own commentary to signs.

==nburl.net URL Shortening Service==

The http://nburl.net URL shortener is Noisebridge's url shortener. Often times these links will go to a wiki page. By putting a short URL on equipment and objects in the space, we provide a way for people to look up more info.

Ideally, the nburl url should reveal the following:

1. The instruction manual for this item, or any records related to it.

2. Where to put the object when you are done with it.

3. Any scheduling info related to this object, or if it is currently being used by someone else for a project.

==Sign Defacement==

Signs help point out stuff to people. Please don't deface the printed signs. The following people have agreed to donate towards a $1 a day fundraiser for Noisebridge for each day the printed signs go without being defaced:

Al

==Needed Signage==

* Fire escape "keep this door locked" sign. (up is locked)
* Record of when/who cleaned the bathrooms.
* Sign above the kitchen sinks about the leftover dirty dish policy
* Improved sign for the treechopper printer and how to use it.
* More "where's the bathroom" signs.
* Announcements section to the "now playing" white board.
* New "buy a tshirt signs" to replace the old ones.
* Giant, light up donation sign
* Signs for the bathroom doors
* Elevator/trash room signs
* NoiseFacts signs for the bathroom doors
* Pole 9
* Addressing scheme for the member shelves.
* Addresses for the daily use shelves. (4 x 4)
* T-shirt daily shelf sign. (Move all the t-shirts together. Put in a box that fits in there.
* Whiteboard calendar that can have things moved around on it?

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Shrink wrap

2014-05-06T00:17:23Z

JohnyRadio:

TODO: Add instructions for how to use the shrink wrap system here.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
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Project Shelves

2014-05-06T00:17:21Z

JohnyRadio:

There are several different types of shelves at Noisebridge.

=Member Shelves=
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Member shelves are for [[Noisebri<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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dge Membership | dues-paying members]] of Noisebridge to permanently store things. Do not take or move anything from another member's shelf area without their explicit permission.

If you are a dues-paying member, you can take any remaining shelf space by labeling the area of the shelf you want with masking tape. Please put your name and a contact email on the label.

=Hack Shelves=

Hack shelves are in the electronics area and contain spare parts that anyone can use in their projects.

=Daily Storage Shelves=

The square daily storage shelves are for people to temporarily keep their things while they are at Noisebridge. Please do not leave items in the daily storage shelves overnight.

=Lost & Found=

The lost and found box is located by the front desk station. Please do not use it as a "free stuff" box.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Sewing

2014-05-06T00:17:16Z

JohnyRadio:

= Sewing Machines =

== Latest News ==
There are a few sewing machines that are broken, and there are some that are not yet documented on this wiki.

I wanted to post this: I spent over the last few weeks hours trying to thread the machines and get them working. I purchased the needles and parts for the machines. However, they need to be sent to the shop and they might work. So sad about it and fru<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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strated. I had really spent my own money and time to fix them because I have a lot of experience with these machines but they are delicate. They need to be cared for. I wish there was more support at noisebridge because what a waste.

== Overview ==

We have sewing machines at Noisebridge

== Tips ==
* For both industrial machines, please DO NOT unthread them unless you must, to fix a snarl. Instead, to remove (say) your own thread, simply cut it close to the spool so that the next person can simply tie a knot with the next thread and pull it all the way through to the needle.

* Needles for these machines are NOT sold at most fabric stores. Both kinds take the same type of needle, luckily.
** The closest place to get them is at Apparel City, on Howard between 11th & 12th.
** Tell them you want needles for a Juki DDL 5550 and they'll give you the right kind. Needles come in sizes; size 10, 12, 14, 16 are good for most purposes.
** The higher numbers are heavier gauge needles suitable for thicker fabrics. Leather needles have a tiny blade at the tip; they aren't absolutely necessary for sewing on leather but they make it easier, especially for many layers. Don't use a leather needle for other fabrics, though, it will cut the threads rather than squeezing between them, leaving holes that may start rips.

* If you've never operated a sewing machine before, ask some people at Noisebridge such as Rachel, Rachel, Crutcher, Alex, Ariel. Or do some research online. You are very unlikely to damage the machines by simply messing around with them, but they are not completely self-explanatory and this page does assume a certain amount of prior general knowledge. A good time to get help is Wednesday evenings, when [[SCoW]] meets.

=== Repairing a Sewing Machine ===
* If a sewing machine is actually broken and non functional, as opposed to just you can't figure out how to make it work, please call Billy from Apparel City at 415-816-8645 (mobile) and schedule an appointment for him to come fix it.
** He usually charges around $80 per hour, plus parts.
** Email the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/sewing/|sewing list] and people will chip in to cover this. If you can't manage this process, email the sewing list and find someone else who can. Also, please put a note on the machine so people know what is going on with it.

= Sewing Work Area =

[[File:SewingMachineStack.jpg|Mystery Sewing Machines in a Stack|thumb]]

= Hardware =

== The industrial straight stitch Juki sewing machine DDL-5550-6 ==

=== Current Status of the Juki Sewing Machine ===
* Current Status: June 21, 2013 '''This machine is not currently working.''' ''The needle thread guides are being ordered and replaced. Also, the 'needle hook relationship' must be adjusted as described in the manual.''

* [[Juki Maintenance Notes]] is an ongoing project to document the repair of the Juki DDL-5550-6.

=== Overview ===
* General fabrics, light-weight materials and medium weight materials.
* '''Not for leather or book binding.''' Sorry, please use the right tool for the job.

==== Official Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 ====
PDF - Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 -- https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf

==== Official Product Page for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 ====
* http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/1needle_e/ddl5550n7.html

=== Tribal Knowledge Juki Sewing Machine ===

* The term 'industrial sewing machine' does not mean that it can poke a hole through anything. It means that it will work reliably on ordinary fabrics for years on end. Please do not sew heavy materials like leather on this machine.
* This machine does only straight stitches, no zig-zag (and no button holes).
* It can go very fast. It has an automatic thread cutter which is triggered by pushing down on the treadle with your heel, the opposite from how you push to have it make stitches. There's a set of buttons on a widget atop the machine which control automated backstitching. If the top light is lit, the machine will do a backstitch when you start a seam. If the bottom light is lit, it will do a backstitch prior to cutting the thread, when you push back on the treadle. Push the associated button to toggle the backstitching. If this isn't clear yet, take some scrap fabric and play around with it until it makes sense. There's scrap fabric in the wheeled canvas bins under the table by the window.

* Bobbins are kept in the drawer under the left side of the machine's table. Also in that drawer are thread snips, replacement needles, and a little screwdriver to change the needle with. Note that the needle faces to the left, instead of to the front, as on most home sewing machines. If you replace a broken needle and put it in facing forwards, nothing will break but the machine will not form stitches.

** To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel). Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle. Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside. Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt. While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the treadle to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine). Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it. If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew. When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.

The top speed of the machine can be adjusted using one of the knobs on a box under the table, next to the motor. It is the second knob down. Right is faster, left is slower. Feel free to adjust this -- use a scrap piece of fabric to determine a good top speed for your skill level and project needs.

Full manual: [[Media:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf]]

[[Juki Maintenance Notes]] - Replacing the counter knife, needle bar, thread guides, etc.

Recommended reading:

[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how About sewing machine needles]

[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/6847/perfect-machine-tension-every-time Understanding thread tension]

[http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25126&st=0 Sew heavy material]

[http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=2002000984&IA=US2001041173&DISPLAY=STATUS What is a thread wiper?]

== The industrial Juki serger ==

=== Overview of the Juki Serger ===
This machine does three kinds of stitches: a three-thread overlock, a chainstitch/overlock combination, or a four-thread overlock. Normally it is set up to do the three-thread overlock, which only requires one needle, and doesn't use the rear thread trace or the second upper thread trace.

This machine has a knife placed to cut the fabric as you sew, and it *is possible* to cut your finger badly on this knife if you are not careful. The location of the knife is pointed out in bright orange nail polish on the machine. BE CAREFUL. This machine also can go extremely, sometimes startlingly, fast.

==== Manual for the Juki Serger ====

* Full manua (pdf) for the Juki Sergerl: [[Media:JukiMO240424142416.pdf]]

=== Thread Tension on the Juki Serger ===
* Thread tension is controlled by the knobs on the right front of the machine. Mostly they're adjusted properly, and for most uses of serging the tension is not critical. If the serged stitching is really wonky, though, try messing with the tension dials - be sure the thread is caught properly between the tension plates, as it occasionally gets into the springs instead.

* DO NOT UNTHREAD THE SERGER. If you want different colored thread, simply cut off the current threads near the cone spools, and tie on a new thread. Then either pull the threads through from the needle area (this can be difficult as they are somewhat knotted and you'll have to pull one out through the guts of the machine), or serge for a few inches on some scrap until the new color is pulled through. You may or may not find that the knot catches on the hole in the needle. If it does, just cut it, rethread the needle, pull 6 or 8 inches of thread through, and keep serging for a bit.

* If a thread breaks and forms a tangle, or breaks somewhere in the middle of the threading, you can find a map of how to rethread it on the inside of a little door that opens up just to the right of the knife. It opens downwards and lets you get at the levers and such of the thread traces. Each thread trace is drawn in a different color, however note that the tension dials are of mismatched colors, so follow the guide not the tension dial coloring.

* If you have to replace the needle, the notch in the needle faces backwards and it threads front to back.

== The portable Necchi ==
This was the only one of our functional sewing machines that can make buttonholes. Unfortunately, it is not working properly at this time.
[http://www.instructables.com/id/Noisebridge-Sewing-Machine/ Instructions for the smaller Necchi sewing machine.]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

SEM

2014-05-06T00:17:12Z

JohnyRadio:

= The Scanning Electron Microscope at Noisebridge. =

* "TV Mini-SEM (R)" by ISI (International Scientific Instruments)
* lives in the room that used to house the laser cutter
* is tended by Alan Rockefeller, Jeff Miller, Chris Murphy and Jim and the rest of the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/sem SEM mailing list]

=== Warnings ===
# If you release the vacuum without venting the pump hose, pump oil will flood the chamber and contaminate the entire mechanism, requiring 10 hours of cleanup.
# If you vent air into the column without powering down the filament, you'll probably destroy the filament ($100). The filament has a design lifetime of about 25 hours, depending on the current put through it. Adjust the specimen stage and other controls at low current, reserve higher currents for final photos.
# Mike Kan has warned that if anyone asks him anything about the SEM, he's going to move it to another hackerspace. Jeff Miller has a MinI-SEM of his own, and knows its ins and outs pretty well.<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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=== Startup procedures ===
# If the power cord is not already present, ask around or post to the list a few days prior to using the 'scope.
# See PDFs on vacuum start up and operators manual linked below.

=== Todo list ===
Short Term:
# Isolate vibration from external sources; buses, people, etc. Mostly finished. (2013-6-20)
# Figure out what to do about the person(s) now "occupying" the clean room which houses the SEM. (2013-6-20)
# Design/build/find a sputter coater so the SEM can be used as a useful tool as well as a curiosity.
# Create/obtain specimen stage clamp or spring to prevent specimen vibration. (2010-12-12)
# Obtain some sputter coated specimens. (2010-12-12)

Medium Term:
# Build a forepump line vibration isolator. (2013-6-20)
# Relocate or otherwise isolate the forepump. (2013-6-20)
# Replace most of the rubber tubing with metal tubing to reduce outgassing and pump-down times. (2013-6-20)

Long Term:
# Column liner needs to be replaced. Larry may be able to provide a clean liner. (2010-06-15) (update: Larry has taken column liner to his lab for cleaning)(update: column liner is now clean) (2013-6-20)
# Integrate the digital capture and control unit Jeff built for his own Mini-SEM into the unit. (2013-6-20)
# Test repair of X Stigmator circuit. Replaced 741 op amp. (completed, work began 2010-11-20, tested 2010-12-10)
# Adjust vertical overscan of CRT (completed 2010-12-12, including hack sawing access port to overscan potentiometers in the CRT module)
# Fix 2x magnification toggle switch (2010-12-12)
# Diagnose and repair barrel distortion and occlusion at low magnification (2010-12-12)
# Sew dust cover (2010-12-12). Sew/heat seam new plastic dust cover, evidently the previous dust cover was destroyed. (2013-6-20)
# Rubber grommet around edge of CRT potentiometer port needed.
# Replace forepump with a (hopefully larger) pump that has a ballast port.
# Buy/find some real vacuum valves, turn simple spool pieces to serve as adapters, and electro-pneumatically interlock the valves so that valve sequencing is fool-proof.
# Evaluate air-cooled diffusion pump as source of vibration and contamination. Consider Santovac fluid and/or water-cooled pump and/or thermoelectric cold cap.
# Consider replacing filament with LaB6 cathode for brighter, sharper images and lower long-term per hour operating costs.

=== Repair and Enhancement Notes===
* Before repair, disable pumps and high voltage then put it into operation mode by placing a magnet on the operation relay.
* schematics framed behind SEM are to a similar, potentially slightly more modern model
* poorly designed wire harness may cause linear op amp and transistor on the J1 board of the power module to fail.
* camera mounting stage and bellows hood for slow-scan exposure. Proposed (2010-06-15), Completed by Mike, Miloh, and Chris (2010-11-06)
* CRT V. scan, V bias, H. frequency potentiometers are located on the underside of the CRT module.
* broken stigmator Y lock tab is in altoids tin in SEM kit box.

How to mitigate vibration:
# Measure and pinpoint vibration sources
# Dampen vibration from the rough pump-line by one of these methods: routing it through a concrete block and adding a hose extension, sandbag the existing line, or utilize water as a mass.
# Hang the column from the ceiling with bungee cord and platform
# Potentially relocate the microscope to the server room to diminish dust and increase distance from Mission St.
# Create spring clamping specimen slug to keep the specimen from moving.

=== Specifications ===
* Made in Japan
* Delivered in September, 1975
* magnifies up to 20,000x
* outputs to a CRT
* non-digital, non-NTSC, non-PAL, analog output signal

=== Documentation ===
[[Media: Vacuum_System_Operating_Instructions.pdf]] - How to start the pump

[[Media: ISI_Mini-TV_SEM_Manual-Troubleshooting-Reference_Guide.pdf]] - How to use and fix the SEM

[[Media: Specimen_Stage_Service_Request.pdf]] - Why the rotating stage is broken

[[Media: Cards.pdf]] - Historic docs

[[Media: Other_Docs.pdf]] - Repair notes

[[Media: Packing_Lists.pdf]] - Original Packing Lists, the contents of the shipping crate

=== Schematics ===

Overall schematics for the TV MINI-SEM (Model: MRS-2-2 WN76-7-01). These schematics are for a model of SEM that is perhaps newer than than the SEM at Noisebridge. It is still an invaluable reference to the technician. Note: This schematic is a mosaic of 9 images stitched together with [http://hugin.sourceforge.net/ Hugin 2010.2.0]. Some minor alignment issues exist in the content of the schematic. I think alignment can be guessed/interpreted accurately. Available in:
[[Media: TV_MINI-SEM_Schematics-Overall_MRS-2-2_WN76-7-01_Mosaic_v._1.0_Low-Res.jpg | LOW RES 1.5MB (4330 x 3109, posterized grayscale, JPEG)]] and
[[Media: TV_MINI-SEM_Schematics-Overall_MRS-2-2_WN76-7-01_Mosaic_v._1.0.jpg | HIGH RES 8MB (8680 x 6217, color, JPEG)]].

[[Media: Schematic_of_Photomultiplier.pdf‎]]

[[Media: Polaron_Pirani_Schematics-PE_Pir-SW_Issue_4_E5000.pdf]] - Polaron Pirani sputter coater schematics

[[Media: Polaron_Pirani_Gauge_Head_for_Sputter_Coater.pdf]]

=== Specimen Images ===

<gallery widths=200px heights=166px>
Image:IMG_0004.jpg|Image of mechanical pencil graphite smudge on an aluminum slug at approximately 20x magnification. The specimen is about 1 mm across. This is prior to repairing the X Stigmator. Magnification was limited. Imaged by Chris Murphy and Mike Kan.

Image:IMG_0652.jpg|Mechanical pencil graphite smudge on aluminum slug. 1000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Imaged by the Noisebridge SEM. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy.

Image:IMG_0655.jpg| Tip of mechanical pencil graphite on aluminum slug. 500x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Imaged by the Noisebridge SEM. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy.

Image:IMG_0654.jpg| Tip of mechanical pencil graphite on aluminum slug. 1000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Imaged by the Noisebridge SEM. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy.

Image:IMG_0656.jpg| Tip of mechanical pencil graphite on aluminum slug. 5000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Imaged by the Noisebridge SEM. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy.

Image:IMG_0657.jpg| Tip of mechanical pencil graphite on aluminum slug. 10,000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Specimen was moving on the slug due to mechanical vibration. Imaged by the Noisebridge SEM. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy.

Image:IMG_0624.jpg|Semiconductor ball grid array at 20x magnification prior to repairing the X Stigmator. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy

Image:IMG_0649.jpg|Snapped metal region of a box cutter razor blade. Imaged on the Noisebridge SEM. About 5000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy

Image:IMG_0007.jpg|Head of a small 2mm allen type machine screw. Less than 1000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy

Image:Allen_close_up.jpg|Head of a small 2mm allen type machine screw. About 1000x magnification. This is post repair of X Stigmator. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy

Image:IMG_0026.jpg|Diatom imaged in fast scan mode (lower resolution than slow scan photo mode). Magnification unrecorded. Mike Kan, Chris Murphy. 12/12/10

</gallery>

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Band Saw

2014-05-06T00:17:09Z

JohnyRadio:

==Intro==

The noisebridge band saw is a mixed use saw (see safety tip below) for cutting straight cuts in projects that can fit into it's short neck form. This tool doesn't preform scrolling cuts without patience and plenty of backing off to prevent the blades from twisting and breaking.

Use a blade with TPI, width,and blade materia<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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</gallery>
l that are appropriate for your cutting material.

==The Band_Saw==
SEARS 1/3 HP 10" Bandsaw, 56-7/8" blade, 1/8 - 1/4 inches wide.
Blades have 3 descriptive dimensions and a blade material, length, width, and TPI or teeth-per-inch. Different blade materials enhance cutting at different speeds and extend the life of the blades.

http://www.toolcenter.com/BLADES_TO_SIZE.html

Note: there are a couple spare 56-1/8" blades lying about, they *DO NOT* fit the working band saw.

==Broken Blades==
If you broke a blade, replace it by counting the TPI and width and purchasing a replacement according to the specs. Cost: less than $11.00. If you have a car, drive to the Sears in Colma and buy the blade 6-pack; that is the most economical option. Lowes and Discount Builders don't sell the right sized blade.

==Blade types==
* There are metal blades and wood blades for this saw.
* The saw is currently equipped with a wood blade.
* '''Do not try to cut metal with this blade.'''

==Shop Safety with the Band_Saw==
just a shop safety note regarding cutting metal in stationary tools... the shavings that come off the metal piece being cut (yes, even aluminum) are HOT. In a stationary tool that has been used on wood, there is typically a nice big thick bed of sawdust inside the tool. When the metal shavings fall into this bed of sawdust, an awesome smoldery fire can build up sight unseen inside of the tool. yay! Especially if you have a dust collection system you can get some pretty spectacular results this way.

Be aware of this phenomenon. When possible it is best to have two separate dedicated tools... and/or if one is going to be transfered over into metal service the inside should be vacuumed out first, and/or the operator should check inside the machine when they are done.

==Manual==

The band saw manual is online here:

http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/44547/

Try this one first, it's direct:
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/98070391.pdf

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Resources/Library/Dead Tree

2014-05-06T00:17:06Z

JohnyRadio:

[[Image:library.jpg|thumb|right|Our excellent library]]

==Books!==

If you use a book or like it, and want to make sure it doesn't get weeded, please write your name or something indicative of your interest on the inside front cover.
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Noisebridge has a lot of them, they're mostly sorted, mostly sitting on our South wall shelf.
Here's a rough description of what books can be found where.

Sections:

# Small black shelf on west side of library
## Kids' books
## RPG books
## General interest, how-to

# Taller shelf on west side
# Politics, philosophy, fiction, art

# North wall
## Graphics programming books at top and along the east side
## Math and science
## Computer and Internet culture
## Programming Languages, Hacking
## Computer Science books
## Operating systems
## Network

# North wall near electronics area
## Electronics books
## Parts catalogs

==Sorting==
The books are currently for the most part sorted thanks to Al. Proposed systems to help keep the books mostly organized:

* Color code or number shelves and books. Books that belong on the "Yellow" shelf will have a yellow sticker on it.
* Leave it chaos
* bar codes or QR codes or library of congress index numbers

==Library Catalog==
A library catalog system for Noisebridge would be awesome! Here are some requirements, adding items to this list doesn't actually mean anything.

Cataloging and checkout are separable problems.

====High Priority====
* Open source software with a nice license that wont fuck us over in the future.
* Web based.
* Quickly add books to the library via ISBN or bar code scan.
* Book search returns the last known location of a book (such as "Green Shelf" or "Book Case 8").
* Books can have a checked out status in addition to its last known location, date of check out should be displayed.
* Users can check out books without the need to register, as in when they check out a book it'll ask for a name and email, blank entries should be allowed as anonymous.
* Users who leave an email address will get a reminder email with a list of books they have checked out once a week.

====Low Priority====
* Integration with [http://openlibrary.org http://openlibrary.org].
* Book search returns results with descriptions and a cover scraped from some other part of the internet.
* Library database in an open format to easily export later on.
* Ability to use a barcode scanner.

===Possible Solutions===
* Writing it ourselves
* [http://koha.org/ Koha] Currently being used at [http://www.hackerbotlabs.com/ Hackerbot Labs]
* [http://www.librarything.com/ Librarything]
* Evergreen? http://open-ils.org/

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Housekeeping

2014-05-06T00:17:02Z

JohnyRadio:

=Weekly Chores=
The objective of having weekly chores at Noisebridge is the first minimize the amount of time need to pay for a 3rd party cleaning service to spend here, and secondly to make sure the space is tidy. The idea of having chores in the list doesn't mean that it's ok to be messy, please be excellent to others by cleaning up after yourself.

Feel like helping out Noisebridge? Great! Listed bellow are tasks that can be completed once a week. Pick a task and do it! Sign off when you're done so people don't do it again.

===Tasks===
''Items sorted in highest priority to lowest.''

* '''Take out trash''' - Empty all space cans into the street cans, replaces liners, take the street cans down to the street Monday and/or Thursday night (where applicable/if there's trash)
* '''Sweep common spaces floors''' - Common space<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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, main hall, library, electronics lab.

* '''Sweep kitchen, bathroom, classroom floors''' - Kitchen and both classrooms.
* '''Mop common spaces floors''' - Common space, main hall, library, electronics lab.
* '''Mop kitchen, bathroom, classroom floors''' - Kitchen and both classrooms.
* '''Clean bathrooms''' - Scrub the bowl and the sink, make sure there's soap and tp, empty trash.
* '''Clean kitchen''' - Scrub all work surfaces, return all dishes and cups to kitchen, send out a nasty email if there are unwashed dishes piled around, do remaining dishes because you're a saint.
* '''Tidy up work surfaces''' - Includes 3 work tables (across from the dirty shop and class rooms), coffee tables near the couches, greeting desk, electronic lab main table, library work tables, class room tables, put books back in the library.
* '''Gather up chairs''' - Stools go with tall bar tables, chairs go with short tables, electronics lab and class rooms. Clear off junk from couches.
* '''Clean up hack shelf''' - Make sure all donated hackable items are on the shelf, sort them out so they're easy to get to.

{| border="1"
| Tasks || 1st - 7th || 8th - 14th || 15th - 21st || 22nd - 28th || x
|-
| Take out trash ||| || || || ||
|-
| Sweep common spaces floors || || || || ||
|-
| Sweep kitchen, bathroom, classroom floors || || || || ||
|-
| Mop common spaces floors || || || || ||
|-
| Mop kitchen, bathroom, classroom floors || || || || ||
|-
| Clean bathrooms || || || || ||
|-
| Clean kitchen || || || || ||
|-
| Tidy up work surfaces || || || || ||
|-
| Gather up chairs || || || || ||
|-
| Clean up hack shelf || || || || ||
|}

=Services=

==Electricity==
We have a business account with PG&E to provide service to two meters for us.

The master switches for these meters are located in the basement, and are both labeled "3rd Floor". Their meter numbers 6331H5 for the back of the space (east side, away from Mission St.), and 703T78 for the front side (west side, against Mission St). The meters will have these numbers on them as well.

For details on our usage rates and the amount we spend, see [[Electricity]].

==Trash and Recycling==
We currently have bins from [[2169_Utilities|Sunset Scavenger]].

:''Trash pickup is Tuesday and Friday mornings!''

:''Please take the bins out '''Monday''' and '''Thursday''' nights by midnight as the trash truck comes between 1:30 to 2:30am so we can be sure they're out in time.''

====Compost====

Compost, at least according to the SF Department of the Environment definition, is basically any and all food, plus stuff that can biodegrade, like paper towels, coffee grounds, pizza boxes, "Compostable"-labeled plastic, etc.

Compost goes in the '''green''' bin.

====Recycling====

Recycling, broadly speaking, is non-food-soiled paper, alumin(i)um and tin cans, glass and PET(E) plastic. Please give food-soiled items a brief rinse before dropping them in the bin (food-soiled paper can be composted). For more information on what specific plastics can be recycled curbside in SF, check the Recology website.

*No plastic bags
*''Styrofoam is not curbside recyclable!''

Recycling goes in the '''blue''' bin.

====Trash====

Trash is basically everything else not specified above.

Landfill waste goes in the '''black''' bin.

===Street cans===

* 1 large bin for trash
* 1 large bin for recycling

Both bins live in the elevator room; please keep them there.

===Space cans===
The space has four large cans:
*2 landfill (black)
*1 recycling (blue)
*1 compost/food waste (green)

San Francisco mandates that waste be separated into the appropriate bin. Each has a graphical sticker placed on it by the garbage company denoting what is appropriate for which. When in doubt you can try checking the Recology site to see what can go in the [http://www.sunsetscavenger.com/commercialRecycling.htm blue can] or the [http://www.sunsetscavenger.com/commercialCompost.htm green can].

When the can gets full please tie off the bag and dump it into the large street cans living in the elevator room. Bag liners can be found in the kitchen, please put one back in the can when done.

==E-waste==
Got something that's e-waste? Desktop computer? Monitor? Electronics? Batteries? There's a space in the elevator room for all that. The pile should only be used for Noisebridge items and not a personal dumping ground.

==== Bay Area Hauling and Recycling ====

Jaime 415-290-5612

"We Recycle all kind of appliances, metals, auto parts, engines, refrigerators, and water heaters for free."
In addition to the above Jaime takes E-waste, and has been very responsive for pickups. He does not take wood.

==== Kim ====

Kim lives nearby, came by in summer 2011, and works as a recycler for metal and ewaste. Contact her at 2krandolph (at) gmail.com if you have electronic waste, metal desks, metal shelving, refrigerators, stoves, televisions, cell phones, and so on that need to be picked up.

==== Environmental Logistics Management ====

[http://elmars.org/ Environmental Logistics Management & Asset Recovery Services Corporation] does free picks up of 30lb or more. If you feel that the pile is large enough for a pick up, please go to their site and schedule a pickup then email the list stating the date and time.

==Cleaning Service==
Skyline Building Care used to come by once a month. Service was cancelled in November.

[[category:pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Radial Arm Saw

2014-05-06T00:16:59Z

JohnyRadio:

TODO: add instructions and safety tips for how to use the radial arm saw to this page.

http://woodworking.about.com/od/safetyfirst/p/RadialArmSafety.htm

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
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PyClass

2014-05-06T00:16:56Z

JohnyRadio:

== Noisebridge's Learning Python Classes ==
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'''Come learn [http://www.python.org/ Python]'''!! 
See our awesome website for both PyClasses at [http://pycourse.com/ Noisebridge Learning Python]

* Advanced Class, Tuesdays at 7:00 - 9:00 PM PST
* Introduction to Python, Wednesday, ditto (at 7-9 PM)

Intro to Python schedule is [http://pycourse.com/schedule/ here], see below to get the online texts for this Intro to Python class

The Advanced Class:
We are currently building a weekly schedule that you can peek at by clicking [[http://pycourse.com/advanced-class-schedule/ here]] 
In general, this is '''your''' class, peeps! We are here to serve '''you''', so any feedback is welcome.

After 9pm Tuesdays, we'll have open hacking time and time for questions for those that are kicking so much ass they just can't go home yet, or even for those that may have gone to Mondays' Front-end Web Development class and want to come back for more. If you have problems from work or home, feel free to bring them after 9 and everyone can help each other.

For redundancy, not 1 but 2(!) people will be helping run the Advanced Class. Please contact either of us with comments/questions:
* Elizabeth Leddy on IRC (#noisebridge/#plone) as eleddy or [http://twitter.com/eleddy @eleddy]
* Kellan Jacobs [http://twitter.com/kellanjacobs @kellanjacobs]

Cost: Free! That's right homies. Bring your good vibes and we are at your disposal!

=== Mailing List ===
Sign up for this now!
* [http://groups.google.com/group/pyclass Pyclass-Discussion]
Once you join the mailing list, send a request to join the PyClass organization to https://github.com/egonSchiele

=== Semi-Official Intro to Python Class Texts ===
* [http://www.greenteapress.com/thinkpython/ Think Python: How to Think Like a Computer Scientist]
* [http://learnpythonthehardway.org/ Learn Python The Hard Way] - A good introductory text with lots of exercises written by prolific programmer [http://zedshaw.com/ Zed Shaw]
* [http://www.python.org/dev/peps/pep-0008/ PEP 8 -- The '''highly''' recommended Style Guide for Python Code]

=== Other Intro to Python Texts ===
* [http://www.swaroopch.com/notes/python A Byte of Python]
* [http://www.learnpython.org/ Learn Python - Free Interactive Python Tutorial]
* [http://www.openbookproject.net/thinkcs/python/english2e/ How to Think Like a Computer Scientist: Learning with Python 2nd Edition]
* [https://docs.python.org/2/tutorial/ The Python Tutorial] - written by Guido van Rossum, creator of the Python programming language
** [https://docs.python.org/2/download.html Python 2.x.x Documentation download] - Contains Python Tutorial & other docs in various readable formats

=== PyClass Githubs===
* [https://github.com/PythonNinjas PyClass Organization]
* [https://github.com/PythonNinjas/InventWithPython Invent with Python Textbook Code] <404 Error>
* https://github.com/noisebridge/Intro-Python / Kellan Jacobs Notes
* https://github.com/noisebridge/web2py-noiselist
* https://github.com/noisebridge/flask-noiselist / E Leddy
* https://github.com/tachang/django_noiselist

=== [Old] Class Slides ===
* [http://egonschiele.github.com/pyclass Slides on Github]

=== Other Helpful PyClass links ===
* [https://www.python.org/ Main Python.org site]
* [http://oreilly.com/catalog/9780596100469/ Python in a Nutshell] - an older but handy reference
* [http://www.pygame.org Pygame]
* [http://inventwithpython.com Invent Your Own Computer Games with Python] - written by Noisebridger [[User:AlSweigart|Al Sweigart]], free to download [http://inventwithpython.com/IYOCGwP_book1.pdf here] or [https://dl.dropbox.com/u/11076239/IYOCGwP_book1.pdf here]

[[Category:Python]]
[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Preamble

2014-05-06T00:16:56Z

JohnyRadio:

=== Please Be Upstanding for the Noisebridge Preamble ===

If you hold an event, meeting or hackathon in our space, we ask you to precede it with this short one minute message from (and for) our sponsors. Thanks!
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<blockquote>Noisebridge is a space open to anyone interested in the creative uses of technology. You and anyone else are free to use the space and most of its contents at any time. Please introduce yourself to the person who lets you in.</blockquote>

<blockquote>Noisebridge is inspired by its fellow hackerspaces all around the world, from Alberta to Zurich. If you'd like to know more about how we work, and what we offer, visit the website at http://www.noisebridge.net/, or join the weekly Tuesday meeting at 8PM.</blockquote>

<blockquote>Noisebridge is solely supported by individual donations by its users. You can donate through PayPal on our site or in the donation bins at the front of the space. If you use Noisebridge regularly, set up a regular donation. A $10-$40 monthly subscription is a great way to ensure Noisebridge stays around. You can also become a member, which means you can take part in decisions about Noisebridge -- but you don't have to be one to use our space.
</blockquote>

<blockquote>
You can also keep Noisebridge running by helping out in the space. Noisebridge is a "do-ocracy": if you think something needs improving or fixing, feel free to go ahead and do it.
</blockquote>

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Payphone

2014-05-06T00:16:55Z

JohnyRadio:

=Project Payphone=

The payphone's number is 415-800-6786

==The Idea==

[[Image:Noisebridge_RedPayPhone1.png| Red Payphone graphic, circa 2011]]
[[Image:Noisebridge_RedPayPhone2.png| Red Payphone dialplan, circa 2011]]

==History of the Phone==

An awesome old red payphone was serendipitously discovered abandoned on Grand Avenue in Oakland. Our local hero picked it up and brought it to the space.
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We got it open to discover the following:

*The date of manufacture seems to be a very scribbly Aug. 1988.

*It is completely missing the coin counting and collecting mechanism.

*The keypad and hang-up switch look intact. The metal buttons on the outside actually just press against a standard little plastic keypad on the inside.

*The headset is not connected to anything, but terminates in four red, black, green and yellow wires that can be hooked up to a standard RJ11 (normal phone jack) connector.

*Out of the keypad/hang-up switch part there is a DB15 connector, equally hooked up to nothing. The assumption is that both this and the headset were connected to the coin counting mechanism which was the brains of the operation.

*We'll likely need to gut another phone for some missing parts, but how much surgery is needed will depend on what that DB15 connector can do for us. For that, we need someone to find a schematic for the pins, or someone who is a master reverse-engineer. If that's you, get to work!

''Well, Seth is a master reverse-engineer, and Steen is an old school phreaker, so one long night spent on this later:''

*We decoded the standard schema for DTMF that seems to apply at least to both the gutted landline phone and the payphone internals, and determined the pinouts for both the relevant bits. It turns out, a button on the keypad doesn't simply close a circuit to make a pin hot, it activates two pins, which then correspond to inputs on the DTMF encoder chip. In other words, Dual-Tone doesn't just mean the tones that are output, it also applies to the signals inside the phone circutry. Neat! So now we can connect the output pins from the payphone keypad to the DTMF inputs on the landline guts. Seth is (I think) planning on bringing in a db15 breakout box in order to manifest this. Please no one break it further before we get a chance to do so.

*We figured out the order of wires for the headset to operate, corresponding to the (somewhat arbitrary) aligator clip => rj11 cable we made for the purpose. We got this to connect to the guts of a functioning landline phone, and got a dialtone from the VoIP box, as well as a functioning mic. This mapping is complicated to format on the wiki, it's written on the inside of the old headset in sharpie. That counts as documentation.

==Photos==

I actually took more pictures but I strangely had a "Memory Card Error" (GRR!) and these were the two I recovered.

Post more if you got 'em.

[[Image:Opening_payphone.JPG|500px]]

[[Image:Opened_payphone.jpg|500px]]

http://flickr.com/photos/pvck/3101832241/in/photostream/

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Vending machine

2014-05-06T00:16:47Z

JohnyRadio:

This is the place to list any info about our vending machine. [[Image:VendingMachineInNoisebridge.JPG|frame| Widthpx = 400| This is OUR vending machine, yes!]]

As of July 2012 the machine is out of service. Something about it costs too much to power + keep soda/pop cold, or something. But the point is it's not plugged in and won't give you soda. So don't feed it your money. [[donate|Feed your money directly to Noisebridge]], instead!

= Current Beverages and Inventory =

As of 5/4/11:
* Slot 1: Coke (27)
* Slot 2: Sprite (13)
* Slot 3: Diet Coke (22)
* Slot 4: Mountain Dew throwback (16)
* Slot 5: Squirt (EMPTY)
* Slot 6: Diet Dr. Pepper (8)
* Slot 7: EMPTY (Don't buy more Pepsi, people don't buy enough)<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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* Slot 8: A&W Root Beer (2)

= Use =

===Making a Purchase===

Everything is $1.00. The machine accepts dollar bills, quarters, nickels and dimes. Insert money and make your selection by pressing its button. If the orange light is on it's sold out. If it doesn't vend, try holding the button in longer. If it still doesn't vend, then you can either chalk it up as a donation or open the machine to retrieve your selection.

===Opening the machine===

The key is on the top and the keyhole is right under the bill acceptor. This unlocks a handle which pops out. Unscrew that for a decent number of turns, then the front panel opens like a refrigerator door with the hinge on your left. You will need to lift the door to open it, and especially to close it.

===Stocking the machine===

If you open the machine door, there are 8 slots for stocking beverages. They are labeled 1 through 8 which correspond to the order of the 8 buttons on front used to select your beverage. Slots 1-4 are "wide" slots that hold 60 cans each, while slots 5-8 are narrow and only hold 34 cans each.

It helps to load in two cans at a time (stacked top to bottom) into each slot in order to be able to fill each slot to max capacity. For the narrow slots, each layer of two cans will stack almost perfectly atop the previous two. For the wide slots, each layer of two cans will stack atop but to the side of the previous layer, alternating to the left and right with each layer.

I've had one can get smashed up by the machine when I loaded a single lone can incorrectly last atop the stack. To avoid this, try to stock an even number of new cans at a time, so that you are always adding two cans at a time. If you end up with only one can for your last stack, just vend one can from that stack to make a pair for the top.

If you are just adding more product to partially stocked slot, you need only to stack it correctly atop the current stock. However if you've stocked up a slot that was previously emptied/sold-out, you need to vend that slot until something comes out to "prime" the slot if you will. (In other words, if you loaded something in the previously empty slot #6, you should take some quarters or a dollar or two from the machine and keep buying one until a can comes out the door. Once it's dispensing each time you can load back in the "test" sodas as normal.) Close the door all the way, lock it and return the key.

= Maintenance =

=== Purchase Support Info ===

We bought the Machine from Gary (not sure of his last name)

We have a 90 day warranty starting 1/4/2011

Gary's number:

cell: 510-300-4836
office: 510-710-9126

=== Service manual for our vending machine (Dixie-Narco model DNCB 368) ===
https://www.noisebridge.net/images/f/ff/S2d2btn.pdf

=== Lights ===
Lightbulbs are 5' fluorescent with a single prong on each side. Part # when ordering is F64T12/D. City Lights is the closest place to buy these.
They are on Folsom between 11th St. and 12th St. Phone number is (415) 863-2020. Neither Lowes nor Discount Hardware carries this type of bulb.

=== Ballast ===
On January 15, 2010, the ballast that came with the machine was tested and found to work. Ballast is located directly underneath
the drink dispenser tray. Ballast mounting plate is held in by three phillips-head screws

= Hacking =

Please hack this machine gently and with confidence. We'd like to keep it working and stocked so it can earn money for Noisebridge. Failed Hacks that result in us spending the vending profits to fix are not excellent.

Mitch added a connector to the vending counter which will switch 110V AC briefly whenever a can is vended.

The coin mech and bill validator may use the MDB vending machine protocol:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multidrop_bus

= Actual Problems and Possible Solutions =

* '''Problem:'''Electrical usage
** '''Is this even a real problem?'''
** '''Possible solution:''' a timer so we don't have to run the machine all the time:
*** I have one of these and they work ok: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=sylvania+timer&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=17676369476629548940&ei=oi4STeCEEILGsAOH8rXdAg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=image&resnum=7&ved=0CDYQ8gIwBg#
*** This won't really help. Because of basic thermodynamics, the compressor needs to run a certain amount: if the duty cycle is low enough to save energy, the drinks will be warm. Trust the thermostat! However, a timer could possibly shift the time the compressor runs to put the noise in the wee hours of the morning.
*** Also, make sure any timer switch you use is rated for at least 11 amps, and I would say 15 to be safe! [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 05:27, 5 January 2011 (UTC)
** '''Possible solution:''' The manual seems to describe timer features built in to the machine. More research needed.
** '''Solution:''' VendMiser... http://www.energymisers.com/ Turns the machine off when no-one walks past for 15 min, but will keep the compressor running at regular intervals so things stay cold. Typical energy savings is 46%.

* '''Problem:'''Noise. And not the good kind. The "gets-really-annoying-really-fast" kind.
** <strike>'''Possible solution:''' A high tech noise dampening leopard print slipper was placed between the noisy vibrating bits. Is the noise still offensive?</strike>
** '''Possible solution:''' The source of the noise is the fan for the compressor. It's really hard to get at the fan to try and correct the problem, but Jared and Robert carefully slide out the compressor assembly to try and accesss the fan. We didn't get total access to the fan but were able to remove enough screws to bend some of the metal around the fan further from the fan region... this seems to have helped with the noise......for now.... We didn't replace all the screws and bolts for fear of making the noise return but they are inside the money bin in the machine.

= How to contribute =

Buy some drinks and either leave them on top and they'll be loaded in or if you're feeling ambitious load them in yourself.

18
= Money log =
This is where we'll keep a record of the money 'earned' by the vending machine, the money spent on product, and the money donated to noisebridge and any other costs that come up. Please put "DONATION" in the list when you donate the stock of the vending machine to noisebridge.

1/17/11 - $65.00 plus loose change - Nick

1/17/11 - -$29.30 bought and stocked mountain dew(24pk), diet dr.pepper(24pk), coke(12pk), and sprite(24pk). -Nick

1/17/11 - diet dr. pepper(12pk) donated and stocked -Jared

1/17/11 - $39.70 plus loose change - Nick

1/2?/11 - diet coke(unknown amount) was donated and stocked - Anonymous

1/24/11 - -$3.00 bought and stocked Hansen's Mandarin Lime (8pk) - Jared

1/24/11 - Hansen's Mandarin Lime(x4) donated and stocked -Jared

1/26/11 - $105.35 including money in changer -Jared

1/28/11 - $123.85 including money in changer -Jared

1/28/11 - -$31.50 bought and stocked mountain dew throwback(24pk), pepsi(24pk), diet coke(24pk), coke(12pk), sprite(12pk) -Jared

1/28/11 - $92.35 including money in changer -Jared

1/30/11 - $106.35 including money in changer -Jared

1/30/11 - -$31.50 bought and stocked mountain dew throwback(36pk), coke(36pk), diet coke(12pk), sprite(12pk) -Jared

1/30/11 - $74.85 including money in changer -Jared

2/01/11 - $102.50 including money in changer -Jared

2/01/11 - -$80.00 DONATION to Noisebridge General Funds!!

2/01/11 - $22.50 including money in changer -Jared

2/07/11 - ???

2/07/11 - -$10.80 stocking 3 12 packs of coke(36) -Nick (for the sake of completeness I'm only adding 35 cokes because I drank one, but am adding a dollar to the machine and not taking a coke.

2/07/11 - $14.00 (not including money in changer) - Nick

2/08/11 - $81.50 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/08/11 - -$8.00 bought and stocked 23 Cokes and 24 Diet Cokes - Claudia

2/08/11 - $73.50 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/11/11 - $108.20 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/15/11 - $143.20 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/15/11 - -$25.75 bought and stocked Mt Dew throwback(48) and Dr Pepper throwback(24) - Jared

2/15/11 - $117.45 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/22/11 - $172.00 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/22/11 - -$100.00 DONATION to Noisebridge General Funds!! - Jared

2/22/11 - $72.00 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/23/11 - $97.50 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/23/11 - -$56.00 bought and stocked Mountain Dew Throwback(x23*), Diet Coke(x24), Coke(x12), A&W Root Beer (x24), Hansen's Mandarin Lime(x32) AND Huge Black Lawn Trash Bags for Noisekitchen(x18) (* one of the guys helping me carry everything in took a free Dew) - Jared

2/23/11 - $41.50 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/27/11 - $115.45 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/27/11 - -$17.15 bought and stocked Sprite(x24), Diet Coke(x12), Coke(x12) - Jared

2/27/11 - $98.30 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/28/11 - $123.30 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

2/28/11 - -$46.00 bought and stocked Mountain Dew Throwback(x24), A&W Root Beer(x24), Hansen's Mandarin Lime(x24), Coke(x12), Diet Coke(x12), Sprite(x12) - Jared

2/28/11 - $77.30 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

3/10/11 - $209.00 including rough count of money in changer - Nick & Jared

3/10/11 - -$132.00 DONATION to Noisebridge General Funds!! (transfered to noisebridge wells fargo account) - Nick

3/10/11 - $79 including rough count of money in changer - Nick

3/11/11 - $87 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

3/11/11 - -$46 bought and stocked Coke(x24), Diet Coke(x12), Hansen's Mandarin Lime(x32), Squirt(x24), A&W Root Beer(x24) - Jared

3/11/11 - $41 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

3/22/11 - $144 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

3/22/11 - -$23 bought and stocked Mt Dew Throwback(x24), Hansen's Mandarin Lime(x24) - Jared

3/22/11 - $121 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

3/22/11 - -$80.00 DONATION to Noisebridge General Funds!! (given to Miloh to deposit) - Jared

3/22/11 - $41 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

4/8/11 - $148 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

4/8/11 - -$53 stocked Coke(x48), Diet Coke(x24), Mt Dew(x36), and Hansen's Mandarin Lime(x16) - Jared

4/8/11 - $95 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

5/3/11 - $281.80?? (not including money actually in bill acceptor and change collector) - Nick

5/3/11 - -$236 DONATION deposited to noisebridge account through wells fargo by Nick. (transaction ID #IBEFWPQXV7)

5/3/11 - $45.80 left in machine for stocking (not including money actually in bill acceptor and change collector) - Nick

5/4/11 - $84.50 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

5/4/11 - -$14.00 stocked Coke(x34) - John

5/4/11 - $56.50 including rough count of money in changer - Jared

(Jared has already spent $15 of this on Hansen's but has not yet stocked them nor reimbursed himself)

5/18/11 -$25 (52 Cans Coke, Sprite, Mountain Dew) - PAID

5/23/11 -$12 (22 Cans, Diet Coke, Mountain Dew) - PAID

5/25/11 -$6.00 (12 Cans of Coke) - Eric - PAID

5/26/11 -$33.00 (58 Cans Coke, Diet Coke, Sprite) - PAID

5/28/11 -$20.00 (32 Cans, Dew & Ginger Ale) - John E - PAID

6/6/11 -$20 (29 Coke, 11 Diet Coke, - 1 Sprite) John E - PAID

7/5/11 -$192.15 Al S.

7/23/11 -$99.00 Al S.

9/1/11 -$63 Danny DONATION

9/22/11 -$74 Danny DONATION (not paid in yet)

10/23/11 -$14 (20 Coke, 6 Diet Coke, 6 Ginger Beer) - John E - PAID

11/22/11 -19.46 (2 Asstd Hansens Soda) - Kaya W - PAID

12/7/11 -41.54 (2 Coke, also purchased TP for bathrooms) - Kaya W - Not paid

== Initial Donations and funding ==

=== Commited donations ===

[[User:Nickthedude|Nickthedude]] $100 --PAID
 
also commiting to dealing with logistics, but looking for a volunteer or two to help with the heavy lifting and such.

[[User:Adi|Andy Isaacson]] $60 --PAID

[[User:Jof|jof]] $100 -- PAID

[[User:Hephaestus|Hephaestus]] $50 --PAID

[[User:rachel|Rachel McConnell]] $50 --PAID

[[User:Leif|Leif]] $50 --PAID

[[User:Turkshead|Shannon]] $50 --PAID

Rafi $40 --PAID

[[User:MCT|MCT]] $20 -PAID

[[User:citizenkeys|Patrick]] $35 - PAID (new lightbulbs)

'''Total = $520

'''Minimum Goal = $500

'''Difference = +$20'''

=== Money Spent ===

$400 the vending machine

$75 delivery

$8.74 20 pack of coke

$17.11 electrical timer to shut it off at night

$20.00 (40) cokes downstairs
--------

total spent = $520.85

= Goals and Future =

The goal of this project is to generate money to support noisebridge as well as give clarity and an obvious way to support to noisebridge to the "walk-in" crowd as well as the noisefolk.

Depending on the success of the soda machine it would be nice to have other premium vending machines that vend possibly healthy snacks, computer parts, arduinos etc.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

In-Depth

2014-05-06T00:15:58Z

JohnyRadio:

[[File:Noisebridge_In_Depth.jpg|frameless|‎text-top|left|]] __TOC__

==What is it?==
Noisebridge: In-Depth is a monthly lecture series and round table discussion.
==When and Where does it happen?==
Noisebridge: In-Depth takes place the first Thursday of every month at 8pm, at Noisebridge.
This means the next event will be on June 9th, 2011 at 7 pm. (thereafter normal scheduling will resume)

==Why are we doing this?==<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

There are many reasons:
* It provides a deeper look at what people are working on.
* This is the next step after [[Five_Minutes_of_Fame]].
* To expose new people to the space
* Most of the talks have a community outreach slant on them. There are lots of communities that could use skills that Noisebridgers can offer. This is a venue for them to come in, explain their project, and see if they can find help.
==How can I participate?==
Sign up to give a talk! Contact Zedd by email (zedd [@] HAT-Labs.com).
Include your name (or handle), talk title, your website/url, and a short description.
'''In your email, use the subject line "Noisebridge: In-Depth" '''
Speakers will be notified as to when their talks will be scheduled.
Talk topic will be finalized and released at least 1 week before the talk.
==How can I attend?==
Just show up!
If for any reason you're unable to attend, you can usually watch it live on our [http://www.ustream.tv/user/noisebridge UStream Channel].
==How can I help?==
We always need people to help with set up and tear down. We also need people to help us find people that are willing to come give a talk. If you know someone, point them at this page.
==The Next Lecture==
This month's talk is going to be "Anti-Censorship Best Practices for the Sex-Positive Publisher," ([https://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=141465195930408 Facebook], [http://www.indybay.org/newsitems/2011/06/28/18683178.php IndyBay], [http://fetlife.com/events/59650 FetLife]) and will be given by Social Justice Technologist and sexuality activist [[User:Maymay|maymay]]. Formerly an open source programmer “by day” and a sexual freedom advocate “by night,” Maymay has been an outspoken member of kinky, queer communities since 2002. Now a full-time activist, writer, and public speaker, he frequently examines cultural and political issues ranging from censorship to community building and beyond on his blog at http://maybemaimed.com. His multi-media seminars employ an interdisciplinary approach that treats sexuality as a lens on the rest of life. Come ready to watch a fast-paced slideshow and then participate in a far-reaching, informal discussion after the seminar.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Kinect

2014-05-06T00:15:58Z

JohnyRadio:

= Overview =
Grey donated a Kinect to Noisebridge under the terms that it never be used with an Xbox. Let the 3D vision hackfest begin!

= Hacking =

== Mobile Robotic Programming Toolkit (MRPT) ==
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

Joachim was demoing some impressive stuff with the Kinect using MRPT running under Debian. Running it in Ubuntu and Fedora seems well supported as well, however, running it on Mac OS X is "not yet working 100%". From what I saw on Tuesday, this is best way to play with the Kinect of those listed here.

== OpenKinect ==

This looks really easy on Ubuntu and other linux flavors. Windows looks like a nightmare as usual but is supported. Jared got it working for Mac OS X during a manual build but it was really unstable on his Leopard MacBookPro. Glview is useful for confirming that you have the drivers for Kinect working but not much else. Basically it just shows you the input to the IR camera and the Visual spectrum camera, but doesn't do anything fancy for showing you a 3D representation of the data like MRPT can.

http://openkinect.org/wiki/Getting_Started

== OpenNI ==

For the longterm this seems very promising. This is a open source project released by PrimeSense, whose technology was licensed to Microsoft for the Kinect. They released this in December and it sounds like it will provide some higher level apis for processing Kinect's data. Currently Linux and Windows are supported but Mac OS X is left out in the cold.

https://github.com/OpenNI/OpenNI

== Kinect 3D Viewer ==

This there is allegedly a free app for Snow Leopard in the Mac App Store, but unconfirmed. It seems to just be for viewing the data not providing an API.

http://downloadsquad.switched.com/2011/01/18/kinect-3d-viewer-now-available-in-mac-app-store-but-dont-get-t/

= Where it lives =

The kinect is mounted on [[Noise-Bot|MC Hawking -- The Wheelchair Robot]], using hot-glue to hold it onto a piece of plywood. The plywood is screwed to the frame of the LCD monitor which is part of the robot.

For people wanting to use the kinect for things like 3D scanning of objects or pretty much anything else, they are encouraged to try to use it without removing it from the robot. The robot has a linux machine for a brain and much open-source kinect software is installed, but if folks want to use the kinect on their own machine they can just unplug the kinect from the robot brain and plug it into their machine. The robot can also be moved to wherever is convenient for these tasks.

Leaving the kinect on the robot is a good way to keep it from disappearing. If it needs to be removed for whatever reason, the screws can be taken out of the wood, but the wood piece should remain stuck to the kinect (indeed it may be very difficult to get it off without breaking it) -jake

== Kinect Hacking Linux Box ==

Andy was working on setting up a desktop/shuttle box in the space that can be more or less dedicated for Kinect use. The idea being that if we focus our efforts on getting tons of Kinect hacking tools in place on that box (once complete), then folks can hack and play with the Kinect without having to install all the tools from scratch on their laptop.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2014-05-06T00:15:52Z

JohnyRadio:

= Latest News =

* Right now we need more vinyl, please donate to Casey.

= Lasercutter =
'''[[Lasercutter/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W|Full Sp<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
ectrum Laser 4th Generation 40W CO2 Laser Engraver - Deluxe Model]]'''

* [[FSLaser Unofficial manual|Unofficial manual]] (maintained on this wiki)
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laserv2-40w.html Product Site]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/ Forums]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/lasersetupv2.html V4 Laser Download Page]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual] [[File:FSL 40w Hobby Laser Manual.pdf]]
* Drivers should be thrown onto Pony and the cutter machine once we get that setup.
* [https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9dVau9GfnKxRVZCUVBPbnU3YjQ Driver Download]

== Safety information and training ==
We should have a bunch of helpful information here on safe operation of the device and who to go to to be trained on its use here.

Please visit [http://www.z136.org/ ANSI Z136 Safe Use of Lasers] and [http://www.laserinstitute.org/PDF/Z136_1_s.pdf Copy of ANSI Z136.1] for laser safety information.

''Here are [[Lasercutter/Notes | notes on Laser Cutter Use]] uploaded on March 9, 2012''

* Please speak to one of the people who is experienced with this laser cutter before using it so we can show you where everything is, how to setup the software, how to use it without breaking it, basic safety tips, etc.

* Read the instructions first. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual]

* Never turn the current up above 15 milliamps, that will fry the laser tube quickly. Usually just a few milliamps is more than enough power to do what you want. Using too much power on wood or paper will start a fire. Instead of turning up the power, turn down the speed and/or use multiple passes. Always use the minimum power you can do to the job to prevent unsightly burn marks and extend the life of the laser tube.

* Never operate the laser cutter unattended because sometimes things catch fire. A squirt bottle with water is kept next to the laser to put out small fires. A fire extinguisher is in the corner of the room for larger issues.

* If little flames shoot up off of your material, turn down the power. Little flames can start fires and will fog up the lens, which is difficult to clean.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. This causes an awful noise and must be very bad for the gears. If the laser cutter makes a banging noise, stop it immediately and reposition the laser head before the next cut, or resize the artwork.

* Do not cut plastics which create hazardous fumes when burned. Acrylic is ok. PVC and vinyl releases the very toxic gas phosgene when heated. As a general rule, chemical resistant plastics should not be put in the laser cutter.

* Be very careful with the silver honeycomb, especially when removing it from the machine to clean little bits of debris off of it. It bends very easily and once bent can not be straightened out completely. It is mostly a cosmetic issue, but pressing your thumb in the wrong place will cause permanent marks.

* Do not laser materials that make an excessive amount of smoke. A little smoke is ok, but a large amount can fog up the lens. If it is making a lot of smoke, use more passes at a lower power.

* When cutting paper, turn down the power to a couple milliamps, or it will catch fire.

* The proper operation of the laser requires you to start your cut with the energy nob set to the minimum setting, never turning it past half... If you turn it past half way... about 10-12mw the laser will die within the first few passes of printing

== Software - Windows - RetinaEngrave ==

Any program can print to the laser cutter, I had success using Inkscape and Gimp. Gimp is not very good for doing vector cuts, a major limitation. Inkscape is not the easiest software to learn but it is not difficult either.

==== Requirements ====

Windows XP or Windows 7

==== How to install ====

# Download and install USB drivers
# Download and install RetinaEngrave
# Download and install Direct Print drivers

==== How to use ====

'''Raster'''

# Get an image, any format
# Load the image into The Gimp and make any necessary changes
# Start RetinaEngrave
# Print the image to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Set the speed to 75% or less. Press Go.

'''Vector'''

# Get an image, any format
# Start Inkscape and create a new A4 Landscape document
# Drag the image icon from Winows Explorer into the new document
# Select all. Go to the Path menu and select Trace Bitmap
# Print the image. Select the printer "Full Spectrum Engineering Driver"
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Select the Vector tab.
# Set the speed on the right hand side. Press Go.

== Software - CUPS Driver ==
Amir Hassan and Marius Kintel are working on open source laser cutter drivers through the CUPS interface. Primarily they're working on getting it operational with an Epilog cutter, but would like to expand past that soon. [https://github.com/Metalab/ctrl-cut ctrl-cut]

== Software - OS X Driver - VisiCut ==
A possible OS X driver for our laser cutter.
https://amedeo.informatik.rwth-aachen.de/groups/visicut/

== Quirks ==

* Vector fonts with lots of curves can take a long time for RetinaEngrave to process before it starts cutting. For instance, a single 5 letter word in Arial takes only 3 seconds to start in raster but 30 seconds to start in vector. The same word in the Pokimon font takes just 5 seconds to start.

* If your PC is connected to the laser cutter with the usb cable, and you have the RetinaEngrave software and drivers installed, and you still can't get the machine to acknowledge you (e.g. you try to press the "jog" buttons and the laser head doesn't move) try these things:
** There is a button between the "jog right" and "jog left" button. It shifts between UNLOCK and LOCK. Togge it and try again!
** There is a big red emergency stop button on top of the laser cutter. It might be pressed down, which means the machine won't work. ''Twist'' the button to unpress it.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. Don't let it do that.

* If you are doing a raster engrave, you can not set the speed too high. Here is some artwork on paper, raster engrave, 250 dpi 85% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0190.jpg]. Here is the same image at 71% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0192.jpg]
At 500 dpi, 75% speed was too much. 72% was also too fast.
I also saw the problem at 250 dpi 71% and 1000 dpi 65%. Full spectrum engineering said on Feb 25 that this problem is caused by the belt being too tight. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=310]

* You don't need to watch the laser every single second, but you should at least stay in the little room while it's on and keep a general eye on it. Why? Because if you're using something burnable, there's a chance it can catch fire. Which is bad.

* Turn off the machine when not in use. The air pump gets hot if left on for long periods. It is not quite hot enough to cause a problem, but it will last longer if it is not always on, and turning it off will keep dust from accumulating inside the laser unnecessarily.

== Things you can put in the laser cutter ==

* Paper (cardstock could have additives that should not go in the cutter, test a sample)
* Acrylic and several other plastics
* Wood (careful of fire, treated wood could have additives)
* Cotton
* Many other fabrics (not moleskin books because they can have high chlorine content)
* Cell phones (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Laptops (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Leather
* Glass
* Anodized/coated metal
* Chocolate
* Linoleum
* "Speedy-cut" rubber

== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
| Any powder
|
| the compressed air will blow it away
|-
| Bare metal
|
|
|-
| Animals
|
|
|-
| People
|
|
|-
| Butane lighters
|
|
|-
| Gasoline or other liquids
|
|
|}

== Tips ==

* Before putting your material into the laser cutter, test your image on paper. If you don't test on paper first you will ruin a lot of the material you are cutting. Once it looks good on paper you can place your material on the paper so you know it is positioned properly, and refocus if the material is thick.

* When engraving raster images, they go much faster if you use a lower DPI. The lowest setting is 250 DPI and that is enough for most things. Use higher DPI only with high resolution images and with materials that show the difference.

== To Do ==

* Build a table and shelves for the laser and laser materials
* Collect images that are good to use with the laser cutter

== Cutting power / speeds ==
''[http://wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Laser_Power NYCR's Laser Power table]''

* Typing paper - 100% speed, 3 milliamps
* 2mm acrylic - 25% speed, 8 milliamps
* 5/8ths inch acrylic - 1% speed, 12 milliamps, 2 passes
* Plastic with metalic coating - 5 - 7 milliamps rastor, 3 ma vector
* Linen - 70% speed, 4 milliamps, 1 pass
* 1/8″ plywood: Regulate the current to just a pinch under 15mA and use 3 Passes / 18.75% Speed / 100% power. The reduced speed (25% to 18.75% – a 25% reduction) seems to account for the needed power, while the reduced number of passes (also a 25% and thus proportional reduction) reduces the excess char that is produced by the laser. (figured out by elijah at noisebridge)
* "Speedy-cut" rubber - Raster: 15% speed, 3 milliamps, 1 pass.
* 1/16 inch basswood, to cut through: 34% speed, 14% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 7 passes
* basswood to etch: 20% speed, 10% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 1 pass

== Specifications ==

* Maximum material size: 13" x 16"
* Maximum engravable area: 9.5" x 14.5"
* Maximum material thickness: 2.75"
* CO2 Laser Wavelength: 10.6um
* Maximum Laser Power: 40W

== [[Talk:Lasercutter|Discussion]] ==
'''[[Talk:Lasercutter|On the Discussion page!]]'''

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Lathe

2014-05-06T00:15:41Z

JohnyRadio:

[[File:Cummins_7x12_miniLathe.jpg]]

[http://www.mini-lathe.com/]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

MaxNCMill

2014-05-06T00:15:33Z

JohnyRadio:

[[File:MaxNC.jpg]]

Hereby known as "That Goddamned Mill (TGDM-"POS" for short)"

* [http://032568b.netsolhost.com/page13.html Max NC 10 CL-B Specifications]
* [http://www.maxnc.net/product_p/maxnc10.htm MaxNC 10 Product]
* [http://www.ximotion.com/ Ximotion Company]

A good primer on CNC machining: http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/guerrilla_cnc1.shtml

== IMPORTANT! ==

Improperly used, the mill can destroy its<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
elf, its tools, and parts of you. Please know what you are doing and don't be afraid to ask questions.

* RTFM! Know how to home each axis, and what tools to use, how to shut down, etc. http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/

* Always check limits by manually running outside your mill area with the tool at a safe Z height.

* DO NOT UPGRADE THE UBUNTU 8.04 OR THE KERNEL ON THE HOST MACHINE!

* DO NOT MILL PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH STEEL TOOLS! (Carbide only, see [[#Tooling | Tooling]] )

* USE EYE PROTECTION unless you like tweezering pieces of shattered carbide mill tools out of them

* USE VACUUM TO PREVENT DUST EVERYWHERE WHILE MAXNC IS MILLING! '''ESPECIALLY AVOID DUST GOING INTO PC!'''

Though we have implemented basic safety shutoffs, we should be watching it all the time. It will very happily mill through itself without stopping.

If it appears to be getting out of hand, the F1 key should toggle Emergency Stop in the software. This will power down the spindle and stop it where it is immediately.

If it REALLY IS getting out of hand, turn the power switch off (the one on the side of the control box). Note however that after doing this you'll probably need to restart the software because it will be out of sync with the controller (it gets out of sync).

== Software ==

We are using http://linuxcnc.org EMC2 and AXIS software to drive the mill. We had to hack the config files considerably and reverse-engineer the pinout. See here for documentation: http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/

We have installed EMC2 and AXIS and some other software on the driver PC. This depends on a custom kernel and Ubuntu 8.04 -- PLEASE DON'T UPGRADE!

The EMC2/AXIS software takes GCode as motion control input files. More info here: http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/
We have figured out several Gcode [[#Toolchains]] for your CNC enjoyment

===Local Installation===

To experiment with EMC2/Axis machine on your personal Ubuntu/Debian setup, you may not want to apt-get emc2 because that depends on a special rtai kernel and Ubuntu 8.04. Here's a way to apt-get the pure simulator: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?EMC2_Pure_Simulator

If you are badass, you can compile the code in simulation mode following the instructions here:
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Installing_EMC2#Building_emc2_simulator

The resulting binary should run and give you a UI on your system. There's actually nothing machine-specific that you need at this point: your UI will look pretty much exactly what we have now. Select the "axis.ini" config file.

You should now just be able to:

*open one of the sample gcode files
*power the machine 'on' (unset emergency stop [red X], and set power [orange square] buttons)
*'home' the various axes (must home all axes, use radio buttons to select)
*'run' the gcode. (blue "play" triangle)

For most of the configurations there is a smaller window w/ an inverted cone representing the spindle (this is the default view). This will show the progress of your milling run. You can change the view and pan/zoom/tilt with the mouse.

For a sanity check, try simulating a run of the NB logo gcode from [[Identity]]

Then try gcode from the [[#Toolchains | toolchain ]] of your choice.

== Login ==

username: nb
password: nb

== Toolchains ==

Many tools exist for generating/converting to gcode. Here's a good list: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Cam

In particular, here's how you generate gcode from

===Bitmaps, Images===

The EMC2/Axis application will import most image formats and create a raster scan tool path with milling depth proportional to image intensity. Haven't tried this but it looks very cool!

=== Text /TrueType ===
text / truetype : http://www.timeguy.com/cradek/truetype

Hershey Stroke Fonts for Inkscape from EMSL: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/hershey

===DXF/QCAD===

DXF is a standard file format used by many CAD programs (as well as exportable from inkscape and Adobe Illustrator). It's a good choice, especially as gcode export from Inkscape seems to be buggy.

QCAD is an open-source 2d CAD program. Linux users can apt-get qcad, there is open-source executable for Windows as well (but it's hard to find as Ribbonsoft took it closed-source (wtf?) and most searches end up at their page.) QCAD is very solid and a great place to start with CAD, especially if you can't afford/don't need Autodesk/Solidworks.

The scale feature in QCAD is counterintuitive at first. To scale your object, select all, then select Modify -> Scale. Click the right arrow on the bottom of the toolbar on the left side. It will then ask for a reference point, click on the lower left corner of your image. It will then ask for the scale factor and will scale your object.

===Dxf2gcode===

We use a DXF-GCode conversion called, unsurprisingly, dxf2gcode http://www.christian-kohloeffel.homepage.t-online.de/dxf2gocde.html [URL is not a typo]. In the /home/nb/dxf2gcode directory, run the dxf2gcode_v01.py command.

Open your dxf file from File->Read DXF. It sometimes barfs on DXF exported from Inkscape (works fine for me), but is fine with QCAD, so a workaround is to load the Inkscape dxf in QCAD and save it from QCAD (it's also easy to scale and rotate if necessary).

I am still working through the various dxf2gcode options but setting "infeed depth" to the same value as "mill depth" gives you a one-pass toolpath (otherwise it seems to do it in two passes.)

Coordinate units are kind of a crapshoot and don't make much sense right now.

Note that it may be doing a lot of math without benefit of the numpy library so it can be SLOW. It has no progress indication, and doesn't redraw the screen, so it may look like it crashed. Sometimes it actually does. But be patient!

Sometimes it gives the error "Failure reading like stopped at line X. Please check/correct line in dxf file." If X is the number of lines in your DXF, don't worry, it read the whole thing.

By default it lifts the tool up unnecessarily high, you can improve cutting speed by setting the Z retraction area and Z safety margin to a lower number than the default of 15.

=== EagleCAD ===
Cadsoft [http://www.cadsoft.de/ EagleCAD ] is a schematic editor and PCB layout tool. It's not open source, but there's a
free version that is very decent and limited only to the size of board you can lay out.

To generate GCode from your Eagle layout, get the scripts from http://www.pcbgcode.org/. These do "Isolation routing," that is, they will generate GCode to mill away copper outside the traces you laid out on a copper-covered PCB (as well as drill it).

I've added MAXCNC mill-specific commands to the pcbgcode config stuff, including setting the spindle speed to maximum and turning on the motor. (Config file is /home/nb/eagle-5.6.0/ulp/gcode-defaults.h on the mill PC).

First experiments milling PCBs = success! [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 23:57, 17 October 2009 (PDT)

I used .01 carbide end mills from here:
http://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Cutter-059918-Overall-Carbide/dp/B000N477OK/

On 1-sided copper-plated (1-oz) circuit boards from here: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=14868+DT

To start, create a layout in Eaglecad. To work best, use one layer (which can make routing a pain), and use a minimum trace size of 0.012 inches. Make sure you do a DRC check with 10 mil isolation spacing (thouugh I have found it misses trace-pad distances).

From the Eagle command line,

run pcb-gcode-setup

This creates several gcode .ngc file in the same directory as your eagle .brd file. They have suffixes like
"top" "bot" and "d" for top copper, bottom copper, and drill. Run AXIS2 and load the appropriate file. Look CAREFULLY at the tool path. Does it really isolate everything you want it to? If not, you may have to increase spacing and re-run. Check especially places of small pitch and tight clearances, especially between traces and pads.

Milling the copper is a tradeoff between quality and speed. At fast speeds, the copper tends to get rough at the milled edges. Slow speed rates help a lot but can lead to impractically long milling times.

2.5 ips gives beautiful results, but a good compromise is something like 5 - 8 ips (set in the pcb-gecode setup). If you look at File->properties in the EMC2-Axis tool it will give you a rough idea of the milling time.

Setting the Z home at precisely zero (at the board surface) is very important, because we are working at depths of hundredths of an inch. After several attempts I don't think you can do this well with just the manual jog, and risk breaking the tool. Here's what I did that worked:

# Raise the head so you can put the tool in the collet. Put it in as far as you can.
# Tighten gently, only enough to keep from falling out.
# Drop the head to about 1/4 an inch above the workpiece. Don't touch!
# Loosen the mill tool in the collet
# GENTLY let the mill tool drop to touch the workpiece surface
# finger-tighten the collet -- tightly!
# Home the Z axis VERY IMPORTANT DON'T FORGET!!
# Raise the head and wrench-tighten the collet

I think the default Z Down dimension of -0.01 may be too much given that 1-oz copper is supposed to be only 1.4 mils thick (0.0014 inches). I've had good results with -0.008; .0.005 led to problems because I think the PCB I used was not perfectly flat at at some places this depth did not hit "bottom." With further experiments this may be because the clamps are compressing the PCB: at least it seemed to work fine more than 1/2 inch away from them.

====Drilling vias====

For through-hole components, you'll need to drill vias. Doing this is a multi-step, involved process. Because etching is sensitive to the trueness/truing of your board's surface, you only want to etch the board when it's mated directly to a metal block, but you need a plastic sacrificial stop for drilling. So, etch as normal, then add two registration marks to the top of the board. Unmount it, add the plastic backing, change tools, remount, and rezero, respecting the registration. From there, you can run the drill program after suitable modification (you need to manually comment out all M06/tool change commands).

Generating the drill file:

Settings specific to drilling:
* Machine:
** Tool Change: you can't actually change tools at the moment, so this is just to expedite your cutting process, and stay within the limits of the mill
*** X: 0.0
*** Y: 0.0
*** Z: 0.2
** Drill depth: Measure your board with calipers, then add 10mil for good measure (I used -0.100" for the single-sided board I did yesterday)
** GCode Options:
*** Ensure "Do tool change with zero step" is UNCHECKED. If this is checked, EMC hangs. No, really, you don't want to deal with this problem. It's awful close to "EMC hangs, you have to hard kill it, and then rezero the whole setup."

Once you've got the GCode files for etching and drilling generated, you need to tweak the drill file. As it's currently configured, our milling rig doesn't handle tool changes well (the CNC doesn't support automatic tool change, but the EMC software thinks it does, so the whole setup gets Very Unhappy when it runs into these commands). To remove these, open your drill ngc/tap file in a Text Editor Of Your Choice, and comment out all lines containing the tool change command M06. In GCode, comments are parenthesized lines, and they cannot be nested.

Cheat sheet:
<pre>
sed: 's/^$M06.*$$/( \1 )/;'
vim: :g/^M06/s/^$.*$$/( \1 )/
emacs: M-% ^$M06.*$$ <enter> ( \1 )
</pre>

Open your drill file in EMC and make sure it looks sane. There will be a bunch of tool change steps, where it runs itself back to (0,0,0.2), then goes back to work. This is the tool change position specified above; you may want adjust the point to be closer to the centroid of your drill pads, to shave off a minute or two.

After your etch file looks good, and your drill files look reasonably good, go ahead and set up for etching as above. When etching is completed, don't take the board out! We need to add registration marks for the remounting. Manually walk the head down to (0,0,0.5). Once you're there, turn on the spindle, and gently lower the head til it just bites the copper. Personally, I went to (0,0,-0.008), which is the depth used for etching. Leave the spindle on, and raise the head back to (0,0,0.5). You can turn the spindle off if you'd like, then slew over to (1,1,0.5). Once there, turn the spindle back on, and go down to (1,1,-0.008) to make the second registration mark. Raise the head out of the board, then turn off the spindle. I'd also recommend slewing back to (0,0) at this point, to make re-registration easier.

Next, load up the drill file in EMC. You should still have the outline of the paths the head just etched on the display, with the drill file overlaid. This is a good chance to sanity check the line-up of things, etc. Once that looks right, move to adding a plastic backstop and re-rigging the board.

With those two registration marks in place, you can re-rig the board with a sacrificial plastic backstop underneath of it. There's a few of these in the document trays next to the mill. Change out to your PCB drill-end, re-zero as for etching, and ensure you have good registration (make sure the drill-end is sitting on the 0,0 mark when you insert it, raise to (0,0,0.1), and slew to (1,1,0.01) to eyeball the match up. If you want to be totally certain, you can turn the spindle on and just bite the board, but, in doing so, you're likely to obliterate your registration mark, so I'd advise against that.

Make sure you're happy with everything, and, assuming you are, hit Run. Keep an eye on things and be ready to hit the kill switch (if babysitting feels tedious, just imagine yourself doing all these holes on the drill press, and then try not to hug your newfound robot slave/friend). -- [[User:Jbm]] 2010-05-07 13:20; a big thank-you to [[User:jtfoote]] for all his help in familiarizing me with the setup.

===[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape ] ===

This just in, plugin with fix for dxf export. Haven't tried it:

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/big-blue-saws-dxf-export-for-inkscape.html

Latest: the gcode export from Inkscape is buggy. It's python so could possibly fix, but it looks kind of involved.
Workaround: File->Save As-> .dxf, then use the QCAD->DXF toolchain.

For Inkscape 0.46, use this: http://bitbucket.org/jst/inkscape-gcode/
(Do "get source", put all files in /usr/share/inkscape/extensions/)

IMPORTANT: Read the "Help" tab when you Effect->Export->Export as Gcode
This tells you how to set the origin, and how to name your layers for different tools.

In the exported GCode, you need to add/change the following lines:

Set the cut height to -0.01 (for example, YMMV)
#2=-0.0100 (Height to cut at)

Add commands to turn on the motor after the first line:

G00 Z#1
S 1000 (set motor speed to 1000 RPM)
M3 (turn spindle motor on)

And you are good to go.
---

This is cool but only works for Inkscape 0.43: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?InkscapeHowto

== Tooling ==

Cutting fiberglass (PCB) will eventually destroy any kind of steel cutting tool. The glass in the resin matrix is much harder than steel. You need carbide tooling. Note that carbide is too brittle for most metals and will just snap.

Suppliers:
* http://www.precisebits.com/applications/pcbtools.htm
* http://thinktink.com/
* [http://www.smallparts.com/b/256305011 smallparts.com] carries Niagara carbide end mills in fine pitches suitable for circuit boards. Available via Amazon as well.
* http://www.ottofrei.com/ also sells carbide tooling locally, which you can pick up at their store on 760 Market street #905
* High Speed Stainless (HSS) tooling available here: http://littlemachineshop.com/
* Spring loaded tool holders account for warped PCBs and mills: [http://www.2linc.com/spring_loaded_engraving_tool.htm 2linc] <-- expensive. Cheap ones exist.
* Really small end mills [http://bitsbits.com/ bitsbits]

Search for "small parts inc" on amazon.com. They have reasonable prices and reasonable shipping for endmills. (You can also search for endmills) I believe we have a 1/4" and 1/8" collet for the mill, so you're looking for tools with a 1/4" or 1/8" shank. I mostly bought HSS for cutting plastic, but I have some harder ones with exotic coatings for aluminum and brass. --lamont

== Parallel port DB-25 pinout ==

* One pinout from http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1319.0;attach=891)
* http://www.super-tech.com/root/drawings/gif/SuperCam_pinouts.gif "setptype = user1" (confusingly not labeled MAXNC10)

OK, got a definitive pinout, seem to conform to those above. [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 23:11, 28 September 2009 (PDT)

Pin 1: Tool speed PWM, active low
Pin 2,3: A quad input
Pin 4,5: Y quad input
Pin 6,7: X quad input
Pin 8,9: Z quad input

Pin 10: 7420 quad nand output (motion complete ack?)
Pin 11: NC
Pin 12: X,Y,Z limit (or'ed active high when at limit)
Pin 13: spare digital (unused header labeled "probe")
Pin 14: Enable, active high
Pin 15: NC
Pin 16: input to 4x PICs: enable, active low (reset?)
Pin 17: Enable, active high
Pin 18: GND
Pin 19-25 - NC

== Misc other info ==

Manual:
http://engineering.purdue.edu/AAE/Academics/Courses/Raisbeck/images/resources/cnc/MAXNCmanual.pdf

This guy rebuilt his, has derogatory things to say: http://hans-w.com/cnc.htm

This other guy has some interesting upgrades. Especially notable is the new motor mount, and appropriate dxf http://www.timeguy.com/cradek/cnc/motor-mount

[[User:seph]] was hacking on one. Some notes from him are at http://www.directionless.org/tmp/maxnc/
There's a pinout, and an emc2 config. He also recommends thinking about eventually upgrading a lot of the components. Seph's work is what I (mikew) based the current functional HAL and INI files on.

Here's the link to how to drive the mill with a pc joystick:
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Using_A_Joypad_To_Move_Your_CNC_Machine

Here is a link to the manufacturer's available accessories:
http://www.positiveflow.com/maxacess.htm

== Workshop notes, 1.15.2010 ==
'''Machine parts and geometry'''
*The '''bed''' is the blue anodized aluminum extrusion to which the workpiece is affixed.
*The '''collet''' is mounted at the end of the motor. It holds the milling bit. '''Note:''' do not lose the collet, as it is basically impossible to obtain a replacement.
*The '''milling bit,''' which superficially resembles a drill bit, is used to machine the workpiece. To setup the machine, bits are inserted into the collet and then tightened with two wrenches.
*The '''workpiece''' is whatever you're milling - copper-clad board for PCBs, aluminum, acrylic, etc.
*'''Workpiece holders''' are small threaded rods with metal "clips" that are designed to hold the workpiece firmly to the bed. They should not be over-tightened, as it can cause workpiece distortion.
*'''Backing material''' is a piece of scrap material used between the bed and workpiece. It's important to use backing material to protect the bed.
*'''Limit switches''' are located at the end of each axis. These act as safeties in case the milling machine reaches the end of its travel. '''Note:''' if you're milling and manage to trip a limit switch, the mill shuts off, in which case you'll need to redo your work. Be diligent.

*The X axis runs side to side; e.g. the "width" of the bed.
*The Y axis runs forward and back; e.g. the "depth" of the bed.
*The Z axis runs up and down; e.g. the space between the bed and collet.

'''Affixing the workpiece to the mill'''
*Use a piece of aluminum stock between the PCB and the bed.
*Use adjustable wrenches to cinch down the workpiece holders to the PCB. You only want the bolts to be finger-tight; the fiberglass substrate can actually be compressed if too much pressure is used, causing distortions in the milled part. '''Do not use pliers.'''
*The collet faces ''upwards'' (like the tip of a rocket) into the spindle.
*Keep the plastic guard attached to the milling bit. Place the bit into the collet, and bolt the collet into the spindle.

'''Zeroing the machine'''
*'''Note:''' In the MaxNC control program, it's important to zero the mill - to set it to 0,0,0 - before routing a board. Occasionally, the milling machine will not home to 0,0,0 in the MaxNC control program. To fix this, go to ''Machine > Zero Coordinate System > P1 G54.''
*In AXIS' ''Manual Control'' tab, adjust the X, Y, and Z axis feed controls until the tool is at the upper right corner of the circuit board.
*Chuck the bit, finger-tight.
*It is critical to zero the Z axis correctly. The idea is to drop the bit down onto the surface of the copper, with zero force, and then zero the axis. Use the manual controls to drop the bit, step by step, until it is about 1/4" above the surface of the PCB.
*Loosen the collet so that the bit drops onto the board. Tighten the collet.
*Immediately zero the Z axis.

'''Milling'''
*Controls for starting / stepping / stopping milling operations are located in AXIS' top toolbar.
*At this point, all of the axes should be zeroed.
*Click the Go button in the toolbar to start milling.

== Upgrade ==
I'd like to upgrade the maxnc. Right now its a bit sloppy. I want to (1) fix it up, (2) make a locating system for two-sided PCBs, (3) make a sweet document with tons of pictures so its easy. -moo

Hey moo, who are you?
The mill seems plenty accurate for our purposes, are you finding it isn't? (though a pcb jig would be sweet).
I think someone bent the X spindle through misuse, if we fix anything let's fix that... [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 05:37, 13 May 2010 (UTC)

I recently stopped by and was told that the CNC was dead, or at least not working right, so I took it upon myself to dismantle the motor and spindle, re-oil everything, fix the belt tension, etc. It mills aluminum just fine now, as long as you don't try to take too heavy of a cut. I'm going to start working on a PCB mount system as well. - cole

Guys, I'd like to start using MaxNC for making PCB now, but I didn't see any PCB mount system around here. Are you guys still hanging out here? [[User:Azureviolin | Hao]] 16:09, 9 June 2012

=== host pc upgrading notes ===

[[User:Azureviolin | Hao]] just made MaxNC work with a dell latitude laptop (thanks Carlos for the donation of this laptop) on LinuxCNC 2.5, Ubuntu 10.04 Lucid, so he is planning to upgrade the desktop pc which was hosting the MaxNC machine before.

Here's two problem Hao met when he use LinuxCNC 2.5 with MaxNC

------------------------

2. emc2 doesn't run - missing lapic
This happens most usually on Ubuntu 10.04 LTS + emc2. Error messages like this:

....
Realtime system did not load
....
Debug file information:
insmod: error inserting '/usr/realtime-2.6.32-122-rtai/modules/rtai_hal.ko': -1 Operation not permitted

Additional the following lines are found in dmesg:

....
[ 0.000000] Local APIC disabled by BIOS -- you can enable it with "lapic"
....
[ 54.798391] RTAI[hal]: ERROR, LOCAL APIC CONFIGURED BUT NOT AVAILABLE/ENABLED.

This means your computer has a Local APIC, but it is not enabled. RTAI however expects it to be present and enabled to be able to work. You can force it to on by editing:

in /etc/default/grub, change

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash"

to

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash lapic"

afterwards run "sudo update-grub" and restart.

1.1. emc.nml changes
For configurations that have not customized emc.nml, remove the inifile line NML_FILE = emc.nml. This will cause the most up to date version of emc.nml to be used.

For configurations that have customized emc.nml, a change similar to this one is required.

Failure to do this can cause an error like "libnml/buffer/physmem.cc 143: PHYSMEM_HANDLE: Can't write 10748 bytes at offset 60 from buffer of size 10208."

--------------------------------------------------

12:21 PM, 5 Aug 2012

=== Ideas for maxnc accuracy improvement ===
In order of utility and least cost
* tear-down + lube, wax x-y interface
* inspect replace x-axis gib
* replace set-screws, with hex cap with nut to lock down
* x-axis motor mount (stiffer)
* do swivel ball bearing set screws. (make sense with a gib? ) (anyways grease + locktite)
* add bearings at ends of lead-screws to stabilie (original MaxNC has these... )
* z-motor mount (plans at http://www.timeguy.com)
* spindle replacement

=== dual layer PCB fixture & locating system ===
''' Part 1 ''' work plate for prepared pcbs (i.e. has holes for locating)
* make pin indexed work plate that attaches with t-nuts (no need to drill holes in the maxnc)
* add large dowel pins for indexing PCBs with pre drilled holes.
* release pockets to scoop under pcb

''' part 2 prep work-plate'''
* something sacrificial with indexing corner, to drill holes in PCBs needed to locate in dowel pins above
* Face mill both to get '''flat surface'''.

This could make it really easy to get good dual sided pcbs.
Process would be:

# load prep pate, clamp down pcb in corner
# home
# run pre-written g-code
# swap plates
# home.
# Place pcb in dowel pins, glue, mill side 1
# Flip pcb (release, reglue)
# Mill side 2
# Remove, release CA glue with acetone

------------------------

UPDATE: 4/25/14

Machinist from 23b Shop checked out the mill. Settings have been tweaked, worlds have been reversed. X and Y axis flipped, .INI file adjusted to allow for a higher MAX_VELOCITY (15 IPM now, up from 6, not sure the original control hardware can do much more than that)

Seems like the mill prefers to have all the XY coordinates in the positive quadrant in relation to the G54 origin.

Simplified G code worked just fine

Gibs on the Y axis need adjustment, no limit switches or end stops are installed at the moment, so use the mill with extreme caution.

two sample programs exist in the nc_code folder, noise.txt and nyan.txt, both will run on a 3.5" tall, 4.5" wide piece of stock, with the origin at the front left corner. Use a 1/8" engraving bit.

------------------------

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Makerbot

2014-05-06T00:15:12Z

JohnyRadio:

= Makerbot Overview =

June 2013

There is a lot of great history in this wiki but it's frankly confusing. I'm going to rewrite the overview from a beginner's perspective.

* Please check out [[3DPrintBeginners|3D Printing f<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
or Beginners at Noisebridge]] wiki for more details

= Current Events =
== The Makerbots are not working (2013-05-16) ==

Some of the Makerbots are working.

=== MakerBot Cupcakes Not Working Because ReplicatorG Software is too Old===

* You have to use and older version ReplicatorG with these Makerbot Cupcakes. As of Replicator G ~version30 the newest versions are incompatible with the firmware these guys use.
ReplicatorG link: http://replicat.org/

* It is not obvious where to download versions older than 30 - the links seem to have been taken down. Maybe you can get it off the github repo?

There are three filament spools in operation now, with red, black and white ABS. Just pull out a bit of filament, guide it into the extruder of your chosen Makerbot (making sure to avoid any sharp turns), feed it through (with the nozzle heated), and print!

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG v29 software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG version 29, run it, press Generate G-Code, select the profile you will use, press Locate, and find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. It should work fine with the default profiles for a Cupcake with a Heated Build Platform (but do make the change described above). It works very well with ReplicatorG v29.

Scotch has a extruder mount made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced. Scotch is not working now, it is waiting for a new extruder nozzle.

Another bot in the space is Andrew Rutter's Super Cupcake. This one is heavily modified and should under no circumstances be used without consulting Andrew.

Tip 'O The Day:

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* You can make STL files in your browser! http://www.tinkercad.com/

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG version 2.9 for Mac doesn't work - the control panel is missing, so it heats the platform and uploads stl files but doesn't heat or control the extruder. Use 2.7 instead!

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Find the file(s) called end.gcode, and if they do not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit them to look like this (you can just add them to the end - it doesn't hurt if they are repeated):

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0 (extruder to temperature 0)
M109 S0 (heated build platform to temperature 0)
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire up the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Project Log =
Below are some early usage examples. For a more complete catalogue with more depth, visit [[Noisebridge 3D Printing Member Projects]].
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----
[[File:Bunny_and_vases.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|Tron Bunny watches over two sake carafes. The one on the left was printed before major mods to the XY axis, the one on right after. Note that the "ringing" effect is gone. [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 01/20/13 ==

Printer status
# Thing-O-Maric work with http://replicat.org/download version 0040, printing a octopus for reference.
# pp3dp plugged on laser MS Windows station, can print using Up v1.18 software. Printed some Glass frame and raspberry pi box
# Cupcake CNC not tested

Incident
# The Thing-O-Maric stoped to deliver plastic on the extruder, see octopus result

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

== 2011-04-07 ==

Over the last few days:
Centrated the Z axis quartet on Scotch. Found a bad bearing and replaced it. Shimmed the bearings into place as the wood was starting to wear. The Z axis is much improved by performing this maintenance. If the rods are quite parallel and straight, the Z stage can also be shimmed into place to reduce side to side slop.

The modified Z axis mount needed more clearance from the Z stage, so I replaced the mounting plates with a single piece of 1/8" laser cut acrylic.

I also upgraded the pinchwheel on Scotch with Gian-Pablo's old pinchwheel mounting. It's the same part, but with low-friction delrin plates and a plunger along the filament path. The old one can be rehabilitated by cutting out the same 1/8" delrin parts.

The power went out on Nutjob today. Assessing the problem tomorrow.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 03:17, 8 April 2011 (UTC)

[[category:pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

== 2013-05-16 ==

As of today, NONE of the Makerbots are functioning. I did a rough test and found this.
-) The Thing-o-Matic connects, is recognized, moves, but the nozzle doesn't heat up.
-) The right Cupcake machine is detected and registers a serial port, but Replicatorg can't connect to the firmware(Either that or the usb plug on the bot side was inverted :p) Same with the one on the desk.
-) The last time I tried to use the Type A Machine, it was detected, connected, but didn't want to start printing(This was a while ago, I didn't do extensive testing.
On a side note, there is a PP3DP Up! Printer to the right of the monitor, I've used it perfectly fine before, but upon visiting today, I found that the Z axis calibration is a little off, making it so that the nozzle is around 10-15mm above the platform, causing the plastic to curl. In the little testing I did, I have found no way to software way to recalibrate it correctly. Though if you really need to use it, light percussive maintenance can be applied. All you need to do is start printing, wait for the nozzle to start applying the plastic, then start tapping the bottom bottom of the platform lightly but with moderate force until the platform comes just into contact with the nozzle, I recommend using the raft if you do this.

These are what I've found, the wiki page hasn't been updated in two years. Hopefully someone can take a look at the problems I've listed, and take the troubleshooting further sometime during this or next week, as I usually don't appear until Thursday.

[[User:zzarzzur|zzarzzur]] 04:22, 17 May 2013 (UTC)

Learn You A Origami!

2014-05-06T00:15:12Z

JohnyRadio:

[[Image:Origami_isocahedron.jpg|right|thumb|Isocahedron (twenty-sided platonic solid) made from 30 pieces of paper.)]]

[[Image:Origami_bunnies.jpg|right|thumb|Some inflatable bunnies and an omega star.]]

Origami interest group at Noisebridge. Led by Al Sweigart.

The origami group is currently on hiatus. Email Al if you are in<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
terested in starting it up again

==Step By Step Web App==

Here is Al's YouTube video step-by-step web app for some origami videos: [http://coffeeghost.net/origami/ http://coffeeghost.net/origami/]

==Some Good Origami Folding Videos==

Listed roughly in the order that you should attempt them, but they are all easy enough.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSijU52XJ7w Crane]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZbZJEgFEDw Flapping Bird]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSMLk_zGzf4 Balloon]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo9pQmOYkZw Inflatable Bunny]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IzUXJSvB_g Ninja Star]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4L5nDDgEEk Butterfly]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAwDT1VWYcY Square Gift Box]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1bv0RoJjzY Rocketship]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoFTcjVzI7k Pentagon Gift Box]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkCWqYOTn6c Cube]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7qE_Tc8e4g Icosahedron (d20 die)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nROdA_wAQU Peacock]

[http://www.youtube.com/user/jonakashima JonAkashima has some great videos.]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

MaxNCMill

2014-05-06T00:15:08Z

JohnyRadio:

[[File:MaxNC.jpg]]

Hereby known as "That Goddamned Mill (TGDM-"POS" for short)"

* [http://032568b.netsolhost.com/page13.html Max NC 10 CL-B Specifications]
* [http://www.maxnc.net/product_p/maxnc10.htm MaxNC 10 Product]
* [http://www.ximotion.com/ Ximotion Company]

A good primer on CNC machining: http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/guerrilla_cnc1.shtml

== IMPORTANT! ==

Improperly used, the mill can destroy its<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
elf, its tools, and parts of you. Please know what you are doing and don't be afraid to ask questions.

* RTFM! Know how to home each axis, and what tools to use, how to shut down, etc. http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/

* Always check limits by manually running outside your mill area with the tool at a safe Z height.

* DO NOT UPGRADE THE UBUNTU 8.04 OR THE KERNEL ON THE HOST MACHINE!

* DO NOT MILL PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH STEEL TOOLS! (Carbide only, see [[#Tooling | Tooling]] )

* USE EYE PROTECTION unless you like tweezering pieces of shattered carbide mill tools out of them

* USE VACUUM TO PREVENT DUST EVERYWHERE WHILE MAXNC IS MILLING! '''ESPECIALLY AVOID DUST GOING INTO PC!'''

Though we have implemented basic safety shutoffs, we should be watching it all the time. It will very happily mill through itself without stopping.

If it appears to be getting out of hand, the F1 key should toggle Emergency Stop in the software. This will power down the spindle and stop it where it is immediately.

If it REALLY IS getting out of hand, turn the power switch off (the one on the side of the control box). Note however that after doing this you'll probably need to restart the software because it will be out of sync with the controller (it gets out of sync).

== Software ==

We are using http://linuxcnc.org EMC2 and AXIS software to drive the mill. We had to hack the config files considerably and reverse-engineer the pinout. See here for documentation: http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/

We have installed EMC2 and AXIS and some other software on the driver PC. This depends on a custom kernel and Ubuntu 8.04 -- PLEASE DON'T UPGRADE!

The EMC2/AXIS software takes GCode as motion control input files. More info here: http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/
We have figured out several Gcode [[#Toolchains]] for your CNC enjoyment

===Local Installation===

To experiment with EMC2/Axis machine on your personal Ubuntu/Debian setup, you may not want to apt-get emc2 because that depends on a special rtai kernel and Ubuntu 8.04. Here's a way to apt-get the pure simulator: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?EMC2_Pure_Simulator

If you are badass, you can compile the code in simulation mode following the instructions here:
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Installing_EMC2#Building_emc2_simulator

The resulting binary should run and give you a UI on your system. There's actually nothing machine-specific that you need at this point: your UI will look pretty much exactly what we have now. Select the "axis.ini" config file.

You should now just be able to:

*open one of the sample gcode files
*power the machine 'on' (unset emergency stop [red X], and set power [orange square] buttons)
*'home' the various axes (must home all axes, use radio buttons to select)
*'run' the gcode. (blue "play" triangle)

For most of the configurations there is a smaller window w/ an inverted cone representing the spindle (this is the default view). This will show the progress of your milling run. You can change the view and pan/zoom/tilt with the mouse.

For a sanity check, try simulating a run of the NB logo gcode from [[Identity]]

Then try gcode from the [[#Toolchains | toolchain ]] of your choice.

== Login ==

username: nb
password: nb

== Toolchains ==

Many tools exist for generating/converting to gcode. Here's a good list: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Cam

In particular, here's how you generate gcode from

===Bitmaps, Images===

The EMC2/Axis application will import most image formats and create a raster scan tool path with milling depth proportional to image intensity. Haven't tried this but it looks very cool!

=== Text /TrueType ===
text / truetype : http://www.timeguy.com/cradek/truetype

Hershey Stroke Fonts for Inkscape from EMSL: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/hershey

===DXF/QCAD===

DXF is a standard file format used by many CAD programs (as well as exportable from inkscape and Adobe Illustrator). It's a good choice, especially as gcode export from Inkscape seems to be buggy.

QCAD is an open-source 2d CAD program. Linux users can apt-get qcad, there is open-source executable for Windows as well (but it's hard to find as Ribbonsoft took it closed-source (wtf?) and most searches end up at their page.) QCAD is very solid and a great place to start with CAD, especially if you can't afford/don't need Autodesk/Solidworks.

The scale feature in QCAD is counterintuitive at first. To scale your object, select all, then select Modify -> Scale. Click the right arrow on the bottom of the toolbar on the left side. It will then ask for a reference point, click on the lower left corner of your image. It will then ask for the scale factor and will scale your object.

===Dxf2gcode===

We use a DXF-GCode conversion called, unsurprisingly, dxf2gcode http://www.christian-kohloeffel.homepage.t-online.de/dxf2gocde.html [URL is not a typo]. In the /home/nb/dxf2gcode directory, run the dxf2gcode_v01.py command.

Open your dxf file from File->Read DXF. It sometimes barfs on DXF exported from Inkscape (works fine for me), but is fine with QCAD, so a workaround is to load the Inkscape dxf in QCAD and save it from QCAD (it's also easy to scale and rotate if necessary).

I am still working through the various dxf2gcode options but setting "infeed depth" to the same value as "mill depth" gives you a one-pass toolpath (otherwise it seems to do it in two passes.)

Coordinate units are kind of a crapshoot and don't make much sense right now.

Note that it may be doing a lot of math without benefit of the numpy library so it can be SLOW. It has no progress indication, and doesn't redraw the screen, so it may look like it crashed. Sometimes it actually does. But be patient!

Sometimes it gives the error "Failure reading like stopped at line X. Please check/correct line in dxf file." If X is the number of lines in your DXF, don't worry, it read the whole thing.

By default it lifts the tool up unnecessarily high, you can improve cutting speed by setting the Z retraction area and Z safety margin to a lower number than the default of 15.

=== EagleCAD ===
Cadsoft [http://www.cadsoft.de/ EagleCAD ] is a schematic editor and PCB layout tool. It's not open source, but there's a
free version that is very decent and limited only to the size of board you can lay out.

To generate GCode from your Eagle layout, get the scripts from http://www.pcbgcode.org/. These do "Isolation routing," that is, they will generate GCode to mill away copper outside the traces you laid out on a copper-covered PCB (as well as drill it).

I've added MAXCNC mill-specific commands to the pcbgcode config stuff, including setting the spindle speed to maximum and turning on the motor. (Config file is /home/nb/eagle-5.6.0/ulp/gcode-defaults.h on the mill PC).

First experiments milling PCBs = success! [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 23:57, 17 October 2009 (PDT)

I used .01 carbide end mills from here:
http://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Cutter-059918-Overall-Carbide/dp/B000N477OK/

On 1-sided copper-plated (1-oz) circuit boards from here: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=14868+DT

To start, create a layout in Eaglecad. To work best, use one layer (which can make routing a pain), and use a minimum trace size of 0.012 inches. Make sure you do a DRC check with 10 mil isolation spacing (thouugh I have found it misses trace-pad distances).

From the Eagle command line,

run pcb-gcode-setup

This creates several gcode .ngc file in the same directory as your eagle .brd file. They have suffixes like
"top" "bot" and "d" for top copper, bottom copper, and drill. Run AXIS2 and load the appropriate file. Look CAREFULLY at the tool path. Does it really isolate everything you want it to? If not, you may have to increase spacing and re-run. Check especially places of small pitch and tight clearances, especially between traces and pads.

Milling the copper is a tradeoff between quality and speed. At fast speeds, the copper tends to get rough at the milled edges. Slow speed rates help a lot but can lead to impractically long milling times.

2.5 ips gives beautiful results, but a good compromise is something like 5 - 8 ips (set in the pcb-gecode setup). If you look at File->properties in the EMC2-Axis tool it will give you a rough idea of the milling time.

Setting the Z home at precisely zero (at the board surface) is very important, because we are working at depths of hundredths of an inch. After several attempts I don't think you can do this well with just the manual jog, and risk breaking the tool. Here's what I did that worked:

# Raise the head so you can put the tool in the collet. Put it in as far as you can.
# Tighten gently, only enough to keep from falling out.
# Drop the head to about 1/4 an inch above the workpiece. Don't touch!
# Loosen the mill tool in the collet
# GENTLY let the mill tool drop to touch the workpiece surface
# finger-tighten the collet -- tightly!
# Home the Z axis VERY IMPORTANT DON'T FORGET!!
# Raise the head and wrench-tighten the collet

I think the default Z Down dimension of -0.01 may be too much given that 1-oz copper is supposed to be only 1.4 mils thick (0.0014 inches). I've had good results with -0.008; .0.005 led to problems because I think the PCB I used was not perfectly flat at at some places this depth did not hit "bottom." With further experiments this may be because the clamps are compressing the PCB: at least it seemed to work fine more than 1/2 inch away from them.

====Drilling vias====

For through-hole components, you'll need to drill vias. Doing this is a multi-step, involved process. Because etching is sensitive to the trueness/truing of your board's surface, you only want to etch the board when it's mated directly to a metal block, but you need a plastic sacrificial stop for drilling. So, etch as normal, then add two registration marks to the top of the board. Unmount it, add the plastic backing, change tools, remount, and rezero, respecting the registration. From there, you can run the drill program after suitable modification (you need to manually comment out all M06/tool change commands).

Generating the drill file:

Settings specific to drilling:
* Machine:
** Tool Change: you can't actually change tools at the moment, so this is just to expedite your cutting process, and stay within the limits of the mill
*** X: 0.0
*** Y: 0.0
*** Z: 0.2
** Drill depth: Measure your board with calipers, then add 10mil for good measure (I used -0.100" for the single-sided board I did yesterday)
** GCode Options:
*** Ensure "Do tool change with zero step" is UNCHECKED. If this is checked, EMC hangs. No, really, you don't want to deal with this problem. It's awful close to "EMC hangs, you have to hard kill it, and then rezero the whole setup."

Once you've got the GCode files for etching and drilling generated, you need to tweak the drill file. As it's currently configured, our milling rig doesn't handle tool changes well (the CNC doesn't support automatic tool change, but the EMC software thinks it does, so the whole setup gets Very Unhappy when it runs into these commands). To remove these, open your drill ngc/tap file in a Text Editor Of Your Choice, and comment out all lines containing the tool change command M06. In GCode, comments are parenthesized lines, and they cannot be nested.

Cheat sheet:
<pre>
sed: 's/^$M06.*$$/( \1 )/;'
vim: :g/^M06/s/^$.*$$/( \1 )/
emacs: M-% ^$M06.*$$ <enter> ( \1 )
</pre>

Open your drill file in EMC and make sure it looks sane. There will be a bunch of tool change steps, where it runs itself back to (0,0,0.2), then goes back to work. This is the tool change position specified above; you may want adjust the point to be closer to the centroid of your drill pads, to shave off a minute or two.

After your etch file looks good, and your drill files look reasonably good, go ahead and set up for etching as above. When etching is completed, don't take the board out! We need to add registration marks for the remounting. Manually walk the head down to (0,0,0.5). Once you're there, turn on the spindle, and gently lower the head til it just bites the copper. Personally, I went to (0,0,-0.008), which is the depth used for etching. Leave the spindle on, and raise the head back to (0,0,0.5). You can turn the spindle off if you'd like, then slew over to (1,1,0.5). Once there, turn the spindle back on, and go down to (1,1,-0.008) to make the second registration mark. Raise the head out of the board, then turn off the spindle. I'd also recommend slewing back to (0,0) at this point, to make re-registration easier.

Next, load up the drill file in EMC. You should still have the outline of the paths the head just etched on the display, with the drill file overlaid. This is a good chance to sanity check the line-up of things, etc. Once that looks right, move to adding a plastic backstop and re-rigging the board.

With those two registration marks in place, you can re-rig the board with a sacrificial plastic backstop underneath of it. There's a few of these in the document trays next to the mill. Change out to your PCB drill-end, re-zero as for etching, and ensure you have good registration (make sure the drill-end is sitting on the 0,0 mark when you insert it, raise to (0,0,0.1), and slew to (1,1,0.01) to eyeball the match up. If you want to be totally certain, you can turn the spindle on and just bite the board, but, in doing so, you're likely to obliterate your registration mark, so I'd advise against that.

Make sure you're happy with everything, and, assuming you are, hit Run. Keep an eye on things and be ready to hit the kill switch (if babysitting feels tedious, just imagine yourself doing all these holes on the drill press, and then try not to hug your newfound robot slave/friend). -- [[User:Jbm]] 2010-05-07 13:20; a big thank-you to [[User:jtfoote]] for all his help in familiarizing me with the setup.

===[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape ] ===

This just in, plugin with fix for dxf export. Haven't tried it:

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/big-blue-saws-dxf-export-for-inkscape.html

Latest: the gcode export from Inkscape is buggy. It's python so could possibly fix, but it looks kind of involved.
Workaround: File->Save As-> .dxf, then use the QCAD->DXF toolchain.

For Inkscape 0.46, use this: http://bitbucket.org/jst/inkscape-gcode/
(Do "get source", put all files in /usr/share/inkscape/extensions/)

IMPORTANT: Read the "Help" tab when you Effect->Export->Export as Gcode
This tells you how to set the origin, and how to name your layers for different tools.

In the exported GCode, you need to add/change the following lines:

Set the cut height to -0.01 (for example, YMMV)
#2=-0.0100 (Height to cut at)

Add commands to turn on the motor after the first line:

G00 Z#1
S 1000 (set motor speed to 1000 RPM)
M3 (turn spindle motor on)

And you are good to go.
---

This is cool but only works for Inkscape 0.43: http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?InkscapeHowto

== Tooling ==

Cutting fiberglass (PCB) will eventually destroy any kind of steel cutting tool. The glass in the resin matrix is much harder than steel. You need carbide tooling. Note that carbide is too brittle for most metals and will just snap.

Suppliers:
* http://www.precisebits.com/applications/pcbtools.htm
* http://thinktink.com/
* [http://www.smallparts.com/b/256305011 smallparts.com] carries Niagara carbide end mills in fine pitches suitable for circuit boards. Available via Amazon as well.
* http://www.ottofrei.com/ also sells carbide tooling locally, which you can pick up at their store on 760 Market street #905
* High Speed Stainless (HSS) tooling available here: http://littlemachineshop.com/
* Spring loaded tool holders account for warped PCBs and mills: [http://www.2linc.com/spring_loaded_engraving_tool.htm 2linc] <-- expensive. Cheap ones exist.
* Really small end mills [http://bitsbits.com/ bitsbits]

Search for "small parts inc" on amazon.com. They have reasonable prices and reasonable shipping for endmills. (You can also search for endmills) I believe we have a 1/4" and 1/8" collet for the mill, so you're looking for tools with a 1/4" or 1/8" shank. I mostly bought HSS for cutting plastic, but I have some harder ones with exotic coatings for aluminum and brass. --lamont

== Parallel port DB-25 pinout ==

* One pinout from http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1319.0;attach=891)
* http://www.super-tech.com/root/drawings/gif/SuperCam_pinouts.gif "setptype = user1" (confusingly not labeled MAXNC10)

OK, got a definitive pinout, seem to conform to those above. [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 23:11, 28 September 2009 (PDT)

Pin 1: Tool speed PWM, active low
Pin 2,3: A quad input
Pin 4,5: Y quad input
Pin 6,7: X quad input
Pin 8,9: Z quad input

Pin 10: 7420 quad nand output (motion complete ack?)
Pin 11: NC
Pin 12: X,Y,Z limit (or'ed active high when at limit)
Pin 13: spare digital (unused header labeled "probe")
Pin 14: Enable, active high
Pin 15: NC
Pin 16: input to 4x PICs: enable, active low (reset?)
Pin 17: Enable, active high
Pin 18: GND
Pin 19-25 - NC

== Misc other info ==

Manual:
http://engineering.purdue.edu/AAE/Academics/Courses/Raisbeck/images/resources/cnc/MAXNCmanual.pdf

This guy rebuilt his, has derogatory things to say: http://hans-w.com/cnc.htm

This other guy has some interesting upgrades. Especially notable is the new motor mount, and appropriate dxf http://www.timeguy.com/cradek/cnc/motor-mount

[[User:seph]] was hacking on one. Some notes from him are at http://www.directionless.org/tmp/maxnc/
There's a pinout, and an emc2 config. He also recommends thinking about eventually upgrading a lot of the components. Seph's work is what I (mikew) based the current functional HAL and INI files on.

Here's the link to how to drive the mill with a pc joystick:
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Using_A_Joypad_To_Move_Your_CNC_Machine

Here is a link to the manufacturer's available accessories:
http://www.positiveflow.com/maxacess.htm

== Workshop notes, 1.15.2010 ==
'''Machine parts and geometry'''
*The '''bed''' is the blue anodized aluminum extrusion to which the workpiece is affixed.
*The '''collet''' is mounted at the end of the motor. It holds the milling bit. '''Note:''' do not lose the collet, as it is basically impossible to obtain a replacement.
*The '''milling bit,''' which superficially resembles a drill bit, is used to machine the workpiece. To setup the machine, bits are inserted into the collet and then tightened with two wrenches.
*The '''workpiece''' is whatever you're milling - copper-clad board for PCBs, aluminum, acrylic, etc.
*'''Workpiece holders''' are small threaded rods with metal "clips" that are designed to hold the workpiece firmly to the bed. They should not be over-tightened, as it can cause workpiece distortion.
*'''Backing material''' is a piece of scrap material used between the bed and workpiece. It's important to use backing material to protect the bed.
*'''Limit switches''' are located at the end of each axis. These act as safeties in case the milling machine reaches the end of its travel. '''Note:''' if you're milling and manage to trip a limit switch, the mill shuts off, in which case you'll need to redo your work. Be diligent.

*The X axis runs side to side; e.g. the "width" of the bed.
*The Y axis runs forward and back; e.g. the "depth" of the bed.
*The Z axis runs up and down; e.g. the space between the bed and collet.

'''Affixing the workpiece to the mill'''
*Use a piece of aluminum stock between the PCB and the bed.
*Use adjustable wrenches to cinch down the workpiece holders to the PCB. You only want the bolts to be finger-tight; the fiberglass substrate can actually be compressed if too much pressure is used, causing distortions in the milled part. '''Do not use pliers.'''
*The collet faces ''upwards'' (like the tip of a rocket) into the spindle.
*Keep the plastic guard attached to the milling bit. Place the bit into the collet, and bolt the collet into the spindle.

'''Zeroing the machine'''
*'''Note:''' In the MaxNC control program, it's important to zero the mill - to set it to 0,0,0 - before routing a board. Occasionally, the milling machine will not home to 0,0,0 in the MaxNC control program. To fix this, go to ''Machine > Zero Coordinate System > P1 G54.''
*In AXIS' ''Manual Control'' tab, adjust the X, Y, and Z axis feed controls until the tool is at the upper right corner of the circuit board.
*Chuck the bit, finger-tight.
*It is critical to zero the Z axis correctly. The idea is to drop the bit down onto the surface of the copper, with zero force, and then zero the axis. Use the manual controls to drop the bit, step by step, until it is about 1/4" above the surface of the PCB.
*Loosen the collet so that the bit drops onto the board. Tighten the collet.
*Immediately zero the Z axis.

'''Milling'''
*Controls for starting / stepping / stopping milling operations are located in AXIS' top toolbar.
*At this point, all of the axes should be zeroed.
*Click the Go button in the toolbar to start milling.

== Upgrade ==
I'd like to upgrade the maxnc. Right now its a bit sloppy. I want to (1) fix it up, (2) make a locating system for two-sided PCBs, (3) make a sweet document with tons of pictures so its easy. -moo

Hey moo, who are you?
The mill seems plenty accurate for our purposes, are you finding it isn't? (though a pcb jig would be sweet).
I think someone bent the X spindle through misuse, if we fix anything let's fix that... [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 05:37, 13 May 2010 (UTC)

I recently stopped by and was told that the CNC was dead, or at least not working right, so I took it upon myself to dismantle the motor and spindle, re-oil everything, fix the belt tension, etc. It mills aluminum just fine now, as long as you don't try to take too heavy of a cut. I'm going to start working on a PCB mount system as well. - cole

Guys, I'd like to start using MaxNC for making PCB now, but I didn't see any PCB mount system around here. Are you guys still hanging out here? [[User:Azureviolin | Hao]] 16:09, 9 June 2012

=== host pc upgrading notes ===

[[User:Azureviolin | Hao]] just made MaxNC work with a dell latitude laptop (thanks Carlos for the donation of this laptop) on LinuxCNC 2.5, Ubuntu 10.04 Lucid, so he is planning to upgrade the desktop pc which was hosting the MaxNC machine before.

Here's two problem Hao met when he use LinuxCNC 2.5 with MaxNC

------------------------

2. emc2 doesn't run - missing lapic
This happens most usually on Ubuntu 10.04 LTS + emc2. Error messages like this:

....
Realtime system did not load
....
Debug file information:
insmod: error inserting '/usr/realtime-2.6.32-122-rtai/modules/rtai_hal.ko': -1 Operation not permitted

Additional the following lines are found in dmesg:

....
[ 0.000000] Local APIC disabled by BIOS -- you can enable it with "lapic"
....
[ 54.798391] RTAI[hal]: ERROR, LOCAL APIC CONFIGURED BUT NOT AVAILABLE/ENABLED.

This means your computer has a Local APIC, but it is not enabled. RTAI however expects it to be present and enabled to be able to work. You can force it to on by editing:

in /etc/default/grub, change

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash"

to

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash lapic"

afterwards run "sudo update-grub" and restart.

1.1. emc.nml changes
For configurations that have not customized emc.nml, remove the inifile line NML_FILE = emc.nml. This will cause the most up to date version of emc.nml to be used.

For configurations that have customized emc.nml, a change similar to this one is required.

Failure to do this can cause an error like "libnml/buffer/physmem.cc 143: PHYSMEM_HANDLE: Can't write 10748 bytes at offset 60 from buffer of size 10208."

--------------------------------------------------

12:21 PM, 5 Aug 2012

=== Ideas for maxnc accuracy improvement ===
In order of utility and least cost
* tear-down + lube, wax x-y interface
* inspect replace x-axis gib
* replace set-screws, with hex cap with nut to lock down
* x-axis motor mount (stiffer)
* do swivel ball bearing set screws. (make sense with a gib? ) (anyways grease + locktite)
* add bearings at ends of lead-screws to stabilie (original MaxNC has these... )
* z-motor mount (plans at http://www.timeguy.com)
* spindle replacement

=== dual layer PCB fixture & locating system ===
''' Part 1 ''' work plate for prepared pcbs (i.e. has holes for locating)
* make pin indexed work plate that attaches with t-nuts (no need to drill holes in the maxnc)
* add large dowel pins for indexing PCBs with pre drilled holes.
* release pockets to scoop under pcb

''' part 2 prep work-plate'''
* something sacrificial with indexing corner, to drill holes in PCBs needed to locate in dowel pins above
* Face mill both to get '''flat surface'''.

This could make it really easy to get good dual sided pcbs.
Process would be:

# load prep pate, clamp down pcb in corner
# home
# run pre-written g-code
# swap plates
# home.
# Place pcb in dowel pins, glue, mill side 1
# Flip pcb (release, reglue)
# Mill side 2
# Remove, release CA glue with acetone

------------------------

UPDATE: 4/25/14

Machinist from 23b Shop checked out the mill. Settings have been tweaked, worlds have been reversed. X and Y axis flipped, .INI file adjusted to allow for a higher MAX_VELOCITY (15 IPM now, up from 6, not sure the original control hardware can do much more than that)

Seems like the mill prefers to have all the XY coordinates in the positive quadrant in relation to the G54 origin.

Simplified G code worked just fine

Gibs on the Y axis need adjustment, no limit switches or end stops are installed at the moment, so use the mill with extreme caution.

two sample programs exist in the nc_code folder, noise.txt and nyan.txt, both will run on a 3.5" tall, 4.5" wide piece of stock, with the origin at the front left corner. Use a 1/8" engraving bit.

------------------------

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Meeting Notes 2012 07 31

2014-05-06T00:15:06Z

JohnyRadio:

http://piratepad.net/WyQ4H0S47o

http://nburl.net/july31

= Agenda =<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

[[:Category:Meeting Notes|The 227th Meeting of Noisebridge]]

Note-taker: [[User:Malaclyps|Danny]] and the hordes on the etherpad

Moderator: [[User:Zephyr|Zephyr]]

== Introduction and Names ==
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to explain''' [[Noisebridge_Vision|what Noisebridge is about]]:
<blockquote>Noisebridge is a 501c3 nonprofit that provides a space for creation, collaboration, and learning about technology and creative projects. Noisebridge provides space, power tools, and infrastructure to help the public learn new skills and create cool things. Noisebridge continues to exist through and depends entirely on membership fees and donations. Our code of conduct is 'Be excellent to each other'."</blockquote>
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to give '''[[Consensus Process|a brief primer on consensus process]]: We agree and so should you! Only paid-up members can block consensus.
* Introduce any new or unusual moderation techniques that you may be using during the meeting like: direct responses, limited speaking time, orderless stack, &c.
* Round of introductions (remember, announcements come later):
** What's your name,
** are you a member,
** what do you do, and
** if you are new: how did you hear about Noisebridge?
* Zephyr
* Eric -- makes 16mm films! Maybe teach a 16mm film collective! Workshops!
* Justin -- moved here about 5 months ago. I live in the mission!
* Carlos -- I'm working on libnotify
* Isis -- I'm still battling with the Great Firewall of China. Great firewalL WILL MAKE TOTAL DESTROY
* (The Man They Call) Za -- I'm interested in authority (the least amounts of it)
* Nick -- I'm using a javascript database.
* Liz -- I just made cute mintyboost charging kit. Helping Malaclyps with killer robot.
* Steffen (spook)-- I iOS program, and getting interested in Node.js. In and out of Noisebridge, I was curious about the radiation detector project. Everyone agrees that jake@spaz.org would know.
* Eric -- He is the guy who edits wikipedia. Also interested in non-English language Dr Seuss
* Snail -- I don't remember what I do. Always starting projects, sometimes going back to them.
* Steve -- BRAINZZZ computer interface. Rebuilding brain interface for MC Hawking.
* Alex -- makes Code Hero.
* Danny -- I'm a retired trial lawyer. Heard there was an electron microscope. Interested in joining a
* Danny -- I'm writing this sentence.
* Leif -- I'm interested in counterantidisintermediation.
* Andrew -- UI designer.
* Mike -- work with leif on [[deep hack]], digital spelunking for the 21st century, getting down and dirty with the insides of computers. Also technowander, not a quartermaster, or ombudsman.
* Elyane -- a filmaker. Interested to do a workshop in film.
* Bruno -- from Vienna, doing startup with seven other people. Wants to talking about delegated voting.
* Evan -- says don't use ArchLinux, whatever you do. A CONTENTIOUS POINT OF DISCUSSION.
* Ryan -- lives in the mission. Startups. Crypto-Anarchy. I Pseudonymous reputation. Secure encrypted cloud backends. Bitcoin.

== Short Announcements ==

[[Toorcamp]]! Toorcamp! Toorcamp! We are still collecting people for Toorcamp. There is a bus going to Toorcamp! It's a hacker thing in the woods.
Some discussion ensues about the Magic Seatless Occubus that is going to Toorcamp. There will be ham radio.

== New or Stale Events ==

== [[Membership Binder]] ==
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to describe''' [[membership]], and the application process.
<blockquote>Being a member of Noisebridge is not like being a member of a gym or your local chess club. Anyone can come to Noisebridge to hack and learn: you don't need to be a member for that. At Noisebridge, membership is something different: it means taking responsibility and committing to help to maintain, improve, and govern Noisebridge. As a member of Noisebridge, you don't just come here to hack and learn, you actively work to improve what you see around you, help to deal with problems, and make this community better than it is today.</blockquote>
<blockquote>If you want to show your commitment to Noisebridge and the community here without becoming a capital-M-Member, consider being a Noisebridge associate. Associates pay their dues to the treasurer just like members, use the space just like members, and are valued participants in the community just like members. The difference is that associate membership doesn't involve consensus: there's no need to go through consensus to become an associate, but associates don't get to block consensus either.</blockquote>

== Financial Report ==
* Funds in bank: I think we're doing okay.
* Noisetor (See the bulletpoints at the bottom of http://noisetor.net/finances/#summary):
** There are $1974.25 earmarked NoiseTor funds
** Colo service has been paid through Jul 7, 2012
** There are enough funds to pay for an additional 2 months of colo
** This information was updated at Tue Jul 31 20:30:03 2012
== Consensus items ==
You may wish to '''invite a knowledgeable volunteer to repeat '''[[Consensus Process|a brief primer on the consensus process]].
=== Proposals from last week ===
''(Add any items which pass or are blocked to the [[Consensus Items History]] page.)''

Malaclyps: I would be worried if we spent 10K on party + sent someone to Singapore (like last time), I would feel guilty because I work w/ foundation. So this 10 grand will go to our prudent reserve. So I wouldn't want to spend it on specific projects, just two months' rent. The other objection that had been cited was that the Thiel foundation connected to Peter Thiel, and Peter Thiel connected to Palantir, which datamines for the state.

Leif: Not the problem that Palantir datamines for the state, but that it was mentioned in the Bank of America-connected attack on journalists reporting on Wikileaks. He is also not a fan of the source of Thiel's wealth: PayPal + Facebook. He agreed long ago at last meetings to stand aside but thinks we really, really shouldn't do this. It's not as no-strings-attached as it's being made to sound. I understand we can pay rent, but if they wanted to sue, which he doesn't think they do, they could. It's important to understand that we are entering into a contract that says this $10,000 is only for operating expenses and we can give them a receipt, but that doesn't make me feel any better about this.

Ben: Doesn't see a problem. That's what they ''want'' us to spend it on.

Leif: But we're ALREADY paying our rent.

Malaclyps: I've worked w/ Thiel fund a lot in past couple of years. I'm not sure he can speak to all the connections, but I can really say they would be totally happy spending this on rent, I'm totally happy being the person saying we spent it on rent, I have a continuing relationship with them so I would lose a lot more than just getting sued as a board member, so willing to put a lot more than that on the line for this, including my current job.

Alex: Have had dealings with "PayPal mafia." At [[Hackmeet]] a while ago, a friend of his "hazed" him for wearing a T-shirt which has a Palantir logo on it. Feels bad being associated with Palantir on the face of it, but the shirt is for an organization called Hack the Future and a bunch of people who work at Palantir help with that, are just hackers like us who happen to work for a shady company. Met the CEO of Palantir and asked him right out, "How do you explain your own actions?" said they wanted to make this software to make sure no one would abuse software like it But there's also the thing this is about, which is the 20 Under 20... speaking tomorrow at Hackademic camp. unschooling folks...was originally asked by Danielle about coming to Noisebridge. Hasn't seen contract till tonight but only has obligation of one 501(c)3 to another. The Thiel fellowship is just a bunch of smart kids under 20, and we should welcome them. I hope when someone says, "I heard about this from the Thiel fellowship," that we don't attack those newcomers. There's the utopian positive arm of Thiel's work, and then there's the evil capitalist arm, but the utopians are awesome.

Lizzard: That touches on the other thing brought up, you mention your T-shirt as an example; people felt that the fact that you're wearing it "excuses them" because they are using Alex' social capital to deflect from their negative image.

Malaclyps: Just to be explicit, Thiel Foundation is different from Palantir. And I also don't think TF is particularly interested in riding off Noisebridge's social capital. They have plenty from other eccentric hacker projects.

Alex: When there's a direct "this is going into bed with this group," but here it's enough places removed it shouldn't be an issue.
Used to black-marker all Microsoft logos off his shirts but hasn't gotten around to it with Hack the Future tees.

Malaclyps: Proposes putting up for consensus.

Carlos: Asks what Leif would do if it passed consensus.

Leif: Would not block, but would stop paying Noisebridge dues for 1 year. Will probably spend his personal surplus on nb projects

Moderator: Proposals for next week...

Malaclyps: No, no, no! Consensus! You need to do the magic words.

Stand aside? Block?

As such, it is the consensus of Noisebridge that we are taking this money.

Malaclyps: Yuck! Does everyone *really* feel okay with this?

Snail: Asks whether consensus has do-overs.

Malaclyps: Is that consensus? I don't think it is. Is anybody enthusiastic about taking this money?

(Murmurs of assent)

Malaclyps: We should formally note what it is spent for in consensus.

Snail: So we don't have long discussions on what it's spent on

Malaclyps: Trying to find wording that makes us feel better about taking the money. Worried Leif + Carlos aren't happy.

Carlos: Agrees with Leif.

Alex: Missed last discussion, doesn't want to rehash, but what in particular about Peter Thiel?

Carlos: Feels like it's another individual who's washing their money with a non-profit. Happens a lot in the Bay. I cannot assure to you that Peter does that, I don't have time nor info for that, but as an individual who wants to defend himself with the facts, and know what is really going on?

Malaclyps: Heard last meeting that it was a sort of money-laundering tax dodge; this isn't how tax dodges work, he doesn't pay any less tax.

Leif: A charitable foundation is very much a tax shelter; that may be pejorative, it is legal, but it's true. He's a wealthy libertarian. All billionaries have nonprofits and it's not because they're all really nice people. The rule is they have to spend 5% of total value and don't pay taxes on profit from investments so he can give away and invest in for-profit enterprises.

Eric: It doesn't actually work that way. For instance if I'm a 501(c)3 and you decide you're going to invest in a non-profit, there is intense shit you have to go through with the board. No, he doesn't pay taxes, but it's not really his money anymore, the board controls it, even if he gets a director's salary. What Leif says, on multigenerational level, has merit but in single generation doesn't work that way.

Moderator: Have we arrived at any new conclusions about our stance?

Carlos: Nothing against ... but believes Noisebridge can really succeed independently.

Malaclyps: I do, too... I've been wavering on this too, and I think the thing that convinced me is to push this more was that we get a fair bit of our money that we use on a regular basis from checks of this size - maybe not quite, but one month ago we got one for $5,000 from a Silicon Valley charity, so it's my feeling that this money, aside from this contract that we have to sign, is pretty much part of the ebb and flow of money that we get, and how we get money is to get donations like this. Agrees we need to maintain independence, but our independence depends on the sporadic charity of individuals like this and doesn't really change how we work.

Alex: It's not a great outcome if everyone feels like this is dirty money and these are bad people. There are all these super-science save-the-world type of projects and I don't think they're evil. I think if a bunch of people from 20 Under 20 show up, it's a good source of new awesome hackers, and there's a bunch of people from Palantir who already show up to use Noisebridge.

Leif: They're as welcome as anyone else to use Noisebridge, and they're welcome to be members but that's not related to the grant.

Malaclyps: Would like to try to retry the consensus, reworded to say we're going to use money exclusively for paying rent (later operating expenses)

Leif: Thinks we should write down how many people are standing aside: at least 2 + maybe more... There were 4 two weeks ago, and Danny withdrew it.

Malaclyps: Because if there were 4 stand asides we should talk about it some more. Not saying this as a threat, but he's only doing it this week because there was a strong consensus that he should do it one more week, but he's not going to bring this up again. And the foundation is totally fine either way.

Standing aside: Leif, Carlos, El Presidente - doesn't want her executive powers to present a conflict of interest.

----

Wording of the consensus: It is consensus of Noisebridge that the grant be accepted, and the money be used exclusively for paying operating expenses.

----

Standing aside: Leif, Carlos, Snail.

=== Proposals for next week ===
''(Add any new items for consensus to the [[Current Consensus Items]] page.)''
God forbid

Does anyone think a fundraiser with a goal? Alex's roommates think a big giant cartoon thermometer is the way to go

== Discussion Items ==
If an item of discussion drags on too long, further discussion may be postponed until after the meeting ends.
During discussion, it is not necessary to write down exact what each person says. Record the topics of discussion, and any items of consensus or controversy here. Detailed descriptions of the conversation should go on the discuss page for this meeting.

Praveen proposed that Noisebridge fiscally sponsor the new Oakland hackerspace's fundraising activities. We deferred until Kelly the Treasurer had a chance to chip in with her opinion.

== End of Meeting ==
* [[PGP|PGP Key Signing]] could happen now, check the [[PGP|list]] to enable the giant web of trust built on lies.
* Return the [[membership binder]] to its rightful location.
* Clean and tidy the meeting notes, then save them to the wiki.
* Send a summary of the meeting notes to the discussion list.
* Enjoy the company of your fellow hacker or robot.
[[Category:Meeting Notes]]
[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

User:Michiexile/Departure

2014-05-06T00:15:01Z

JohnyRadio:

DrSyzygy, aka Michiexile, aka Mikael Vejdemo Johansson, and his wife are now leaving the Bay area. Since [[Noisebridge]] has been the hub of our social lives here, and such an awesome place we want everyone we know to know about it, it's the perfect place for people to gather for a last party before we go.

Checking the [[Noisebridge]] events list and calendar, we settled on:
* '''April 23, 15:00'''

Come, spend time with us, taste weird things weird people mix up in the kitchen, and make sure we see you before we leave.

Facebook details page: [http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=206129919410801]

Google Calendar event: [https://www.google.com/calendar/event?action=TEMPLATE&tmeid=XzZkMGoyaDFwNm9vNDhiYTU2OTMzOGI5azZrb2oyYjlvODhyM2FiYTY3MHBqaWNoazhvcjM0ZGEyODggbWljaGlleGlsZUBt&tmsrc=michiexile%40gmail.com]

If you haven't been to [[Noisebridge]] you may need to take a look at [[Getting Here]].
If you haven't heard of [[Noisebridge]], and you ar<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
e curious, ask at the party or take a peek at [[Noisebridge Vision]].
It might be worthwhile sneaking an eye at [[Visitor advice]] too, especially if you have children.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Miter Saw

2014-05-06T00:14:57Z

JohnyRadio:

TODO: Improve instructions and safety tips for using the Miter Saw.

== The good ==
We have a miter saw. It is fast, efficient, and accurate. You could use it to make something!

== The bad ==
* It is extremely easy to cut your human fingers off using this saw. '''Don't reach in until the saw has stopped moving'''. It only takes 10 seconds to come to a complete stop, and a trip to the ER will take you 10 hours. Slow down. What are you rushing for, anyways?
* It has a wood blade in it. Don't use it to cut metal.
* There was a blade-brake that would stop the blade when the saw reached the top, but that has been flaky. Repairing it is almost certainly more trouble than it's worth.

== The ugly ==
* Sometimes the sawdust catcher falls off, covering the dirty shop in sawdust.
* You should use the shop-vac to clean up after yourself, even if you only cut one thing.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

Maps of 2169 Mission

2014-05-06T00:14:41Z

JohnyRadio:

Note: Some things have been moved around since these maps were made.

__TOC__

== January 2013 map by [[User:Hicksu|Jarrod Hicks]] ==

Here is an updated drawing of the Noisebridge space, based on measurements done from 01/17/2013 to 01/20/2013. I have included a PDF for quick plotting, scaled for 36x24 paper and the original CAD file for future updates. I have been careful in my measuring but the walls of the space are not straight. Always verify measurements if tolerances for new projects are going to be tight.

[[File:Noisebridge Floorplan 36x24.jpg]]

[[File:Noisebridge Floorplan 36x24.pdf]]<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

[[File:Noisebridge Floorplan.dwg]]

== December 2011 map by [[User:Tony Longshanks|Tony Longshanks LeTigre]] ==

'''DIGITAL BLUEPRINT of the Noisebridge hackerspace'''

[[Image:NoiseMap.jpg]]

Method of creation: Photoshop

Created on: Monday, Dec. 26, 2011

Additional data: Happy New Year and Buckle Your Safety Belts, it's Going to be a Bumpy Night

== June 2010 map by [[User:AlSweigart|Al Sweigart]] ==

[[image:Noisebridge_map.png|750px]]

== August 2009 3D view by [[User:Bjepstein|Bjepstein]] ==

[[File:Overview w invisible wall RR.jpg|750px]]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
[[Category:InTheSpace]]

Music/Choose Your Own Adventure

2014-05-06T00:13:57Z

JohnyRadio:

__NOTOC__ __NOEDITSECTION__
=Where do you want to play the music from?=
{| width="800px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12" style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="25%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Pony_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Pony_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F|'''<big><center>Pony</center></big>'''The Music I want to play is already on Pony, our majestic file server]]
|width="25%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_How_do_you_want_get_your_music_to_the_speakers.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_How_do_you_want_get_your_music_to_the_speakers.3F|'''<big><center>Laptop</center></big>'''I have music files on my personal laptop]]
|width="25%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F|'''<big><center>Mobile Device</center></big>'''My mobile media device, Android, iPod, iPhone or 8 Track has tunes]]
|width="25%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Internet_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Internet_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F|'''<big><center>The Internets</center></big>'''The songs I want to listen to are hosted on the moon]]
|}

 

=Pony - Where do you want music to happen?=
{| width="400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12"<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Pony_-_Hackitorium]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Pony_-_Hackitorium|'''<big><center>Hackitorium</center></big>'''Near entrance, next to electronics benches, 3D printers, sewing tables]]
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Pony_-_Hack_Cafe]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Pony_-_Hack_Cafe|'''<big><center>Hack Cafe</center></big>'''Next to darkroom, library, kitchen, classrooms]]
|}

 

=Laptop - How do you want get your music to the speakers?=
{| width="600px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12" style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="33%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F|'''<big><center>Plug In</center></big>Easy but lame''' I just want to physically plug into the sound system]]
|width="33%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Upload_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Upload_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F|'''<big><center>Upload</center></big>More work but cooler''' I want to upload my music to Pony so I can play it remotely]]
|width="33%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Stream_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Stream_-_Where_do_you_want_music_to_happen.3F|'''<big><center>Stream</center></big>Complicated but awesome''' I want to stream music from my laptop wirelessly]]
|}

 

=Laptop/Mobile Device - Physical - Where do you want music to happen?=
{| width="400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12" style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Hackitorium]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Hackitorium|'''<big><center>Hackitorium</center></big>'''Near entrance, next to electronics benches, 3D printers, sewing tables]]
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Hack_Cafe]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop.2FMobile_Device_-_Physical_-_Hack_Cafe|'''<big><center>Hack Cafe</center></big>'''Next to darkroom, library, kitchen, classrooms]]
|}

 

=Laptop - Upload - Where do you want music to happen?=
{| width="400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12" style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Upload_-_Hackitorium]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Upload_-_Hackitorium|'''<big><center>Hackitorium</center></big>'''Near entrance, next to electronics benches, 3D printers, sewing tables]]
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Upload_-_Hack_Cafe]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Upload_-_Hack_Cafe|'''<big><center>Hack Cafe</center></big>'''Next to darkroom, library, kitchen, classrooms]]
|}

 

=Laptop - Stream - Where do you want music to happen?=
{| width="400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12" style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Stream_-_Hackitorium]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Stream_-_Hackitorium|'''<big><center>Hackitorium</center></big>'''Near entrance, next to electronics benches, 3D printers, sewing tables]]
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Stream_-_Hack_Cafe]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Laptop_-_Stream_-_Hack_Cafe|'''<big><center>Hack Cafe</center></big>'''Next to darkroom, library, kitchen, classrooms]]
|}

 

=Internet - Where do you want music to happen?=
{| width="400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="12" style="margin:6px auto 6px auto;padding:0px;font-size:100%;"
|-valign="top"
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Internet_-_Hackitorium]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Internet_-_Hackitorium|'''<big><center>Hackitorium</center></big>'''Near entrance, next to electronics benches, 3D printers, sewing tables]]
|width="50%"| [[Image:Pissingponynb-131.png|center|link=Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Internet_-_Hack_Cafe]]
[[Music/Choose_Your_Own_Adventure#Internet_-_Hack_Cafe|'''<big><center>Hack Cafe</center></big>'''Next to darkroom, library, kitchen, classrooms]]
|}

 

=Pony - Hackitorium=
'''MPD Web Interface: http://172.30.0.30'''

===Web Interface===
# Go to the AV shelf
# Make sure the amplifier is on and set to WHATEVER INPUT, volume at about -20
# Make sure the computer [[Resources/Horsy|Horsy]] (found above the amplifier) is on and running
# Get your laptop onto the Noisebridge network through wired or wifi
# Open a browser and go to http://172.30.0.30
# Use the web interface to load songs and edit the playlist

===MPD Client===
You can use a more rich native MPD client to interface with Horsy. Noisebridge recommends...
* Linux: [http://ario-player.sourceforge.net/ Ario] <code>sudo apt-get install ario</code>
* Mac: [http://theremin.amd.co.at/0.6.2.3/Theremin_0.6.2.3.tbz Theremin]
* Windows: [http://www.thejavashop.net/bjj/ BJJ]

MPD on Horsy:
* IP Address: 172.30.0.30
* Port: 6600 (default)

 

=Pony - Hack Cafe=
''Make sure playing music isn't going to disrupt any classes occurring at the same time!''

'''MPD Web Interface: http://172.30.0.41'''

===Web Interface===
# Go to the Hack Cafe and find the table to the Reverse Engineering Bar display mounted onto the column next to it
# Make sure the amplifier sitting under the table, is on and set to WHATEVER INPUT, volume at about -20
# Make sure the computer [[Resources/Zebra|Zebra]] behind the Reverse Engineering Bar display is on and running
# Get your laptop onto the Noisebridge network through wired or wifi
# Open a browser and go to http://172.30.0.41
# Use the web interface to load songs and edit the playlist

===MPD Client===
You can use a more rich native MPD client to interface with Horsy. Noisebridge recommends...
* Linux: [http://ario-player.sourceforge.net/ Ario] <code>sudo apt-get install ario</code>
* Mac: [http://theremin.amd.co.at/0.6.2.3/Theremin_0.6.2.3.tbz Theremin]
* Windows: [http://www.thejavashop.net/bjj/ BJJ]

MPD on Zebra:
* IP Address: 172.30.0.41
* Port: 6600 (default)

 

=Laptop/Mobile Device - Physical - Hackitorium=
# Go to the AV shelf
# Make sure the amplifier is on and set to WHATEVER INPUT, volume at about -20
# Find the extremely long audio cable labeled AUX, ziptied to the also extremely long display cables for the projector
# Plug it into your laptop or device
# Be weary of volume levels before playing music

 

=Laptop/Mobile Device - Physical - Hack Cafe=
''Make sure playing music isn't going to disrupt any classes occurring at the same time!''

# Go to the Hack Cafe and find the table to the Reverse Engineering Bar display mounted onto the column next to it
# Make sure the amplifier sitting under the table, is on and set to WHATEVER INPUT, volume at about -20
# Find the audio cable labeled AUX, ziptied to the bundle of cables coming out from the back of the table up to the display
# Plug it into your laptop or device
# Be weary of volume levels before playing music

 

=Laptop - Upload - Hackitorium=
===Web===
# Go to the AV shelf
# Make sure the amplifier is on and set to WHATEVER INPUT, volume at about -20
# Make sure the computer [[Resources/Horsy|Horsy]] (found above the amplifier) is on and running
# Get your laptop onto the Noisebridge network through wired or wifi
# Open a browser and go to http://172.30.0.44
# Click on the Upload tab
# ?
# Use the web interface to load songs and edit the playlist

===SSH===
# Get an account on [[Resources/Pony|Pony]]
# Open some sort of SCP/SFTP client and connect to Pony
# Create a directory for yourself in /d2/music
# Upload music to that directory
# SSH into Pony
# run: <code>mpc-update-all</code>
# Wait about 2 minutes
# Your tunes should be available now to add to a playlist through the web interface

 

=Laptop - Upload - Hack Cafe=
''Make sure playing music isn't going to disrupt any classes occurring at the same time!''

===Web===
# Go to the Hack Cafe and find the table to the Reverse Engineering Bar display mounted onto the column next to it
# Make sure the amplifier sitting under the table, is on and set to WHATEVER INPUT, volume at about -20
# Make sure the computer [[Resources/Zebra|Zebra]] behind the Reverse Engineering Bar display is on and running
# Get your laptop onto the Noisebridge network through wired or wifi
# Open a browser and go to http://172.30.0.41
# Use the web interface to load songs and edit the playlist

===SSH===
# Get an account on [[Resources/Pony|Pony]]
# Open some sort of SCP/SFTP client and connect to Pony
# Create a directory for yourself in /d2/music
# Upload music to that directory
# SSH into Pony
# run: <code>mpc-update-all</code>
# Wait about 2 minutes
# Your tunes should be available now to add to a playlist through the web interface

 

=Laptop - Stream - Hackitorium=
===Linux===
Setup PulseAudio, most modern linux distros have already switched over to it. Remember to enable ''Make discoverable PulseAdio network sound devices available locally'' in <code>paprefs</code>, to have avahi running. Using <code>pavucontrol</code>, switch your output sink to Horsy.

Sink name: Internal Audio Analog Stereo on mpd@horsy

===Mac===
http://www.rogueamoeba.com/nicecast/

===Windows===
?

 

=Laptop - Stream - Hack Cafe=
''Make sure playing music isn't going to disrupt any classes occurring at the same time!''

===Linux===
Setup PulseAudio, most modern linux distros have already switched over to it. Remember to enable ''Make discoverable PulseAdio network sound devices available locally'' in <code>paprefs</code>, to have avahi running. Using <code>pavucontrol</code>, switch your output sink to Zebra.

Sink name: Internal Audio Analog Stereo on mpd@zebra

===Mac===
===Windows===

 

=Internet - Hackitorium=

 

=Internet - Hack Cafe=
''Make sure playing music isn't going to disrupt any classes occurring at the same time!''

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

NBTV

2014-05-06T00:13:47Z

JohnyRadio:

==Spec==
The NBTV is a >40 inch strange emission (not LED?) TV that was donated to Noisebridge with the directive to tell the person who donated it how it was fixed.
It had switch and OSD problems, which were all fixed by Zach
[[Image:TvControlSwitch.jpg|This is a repair schematic|350px|right]]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

NetLiteII

2014-05-06T00:13:37Z

JohnyRadio:

*Symon NetLite II [http://symondacon.com/content/view/122/267/]

*Has DHCP client and grabs an IP address with no problem

<pre>
Starting Nmap 4.85BETA8 ( http://nmap.org ) at 2009-05-09 20:40 PDT
Interesting ports on 192.168.3.157 (old: 172.30.0.107):
Not shown: 997 closed ports
PORT STATE SERVICE
23/tcp open telnet
80/tcp open http
700/tcp open unknown
</pre>

<pre>
Starting Nmap 4.20 ( http://insecure.org ) at 2009-09-25 19:18 PDT
Interesting ports on 192.168.3.157:
Not shown: 1485 closed ports
PORT STATE SERVICE
69/udp open|filtered tftp<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

137/udp open|filtered netbios-ns
161/udp open|filtered snmp
MAC Address: 00:00:E0:BC:2C:9B (Quadram)
</pre>

*Telnet port is open and connects without password. Once connected, typing "Logon=" gives you access to more settings.
<pre>
SYMON NetLite II, Ver 2.60(181.21) 16x128 (Boot:175.01-S3d.BFE.fd13)
System up time = 01:55:23
Waiting On Connection
Statistics: Memory: 31195120
recvd packets = 0 used = 1324544( 4.2%)
bad packets = 0 free = 29870576( 95.7%)
queued packets = 0 blks = 4/264
bytes received = 4 Msgs = 8

Refresh = 63Hz
Serial Number = 00.00.E0.BC.2C.9B Name = Llama
IP Address = 172.30.0.107 DHCP = 172.30.0.1
Subnet Mask = 255.255.255.0 DNS = 172.30.0.1
Default Gateway = 172.30.0.1

CMD:
</pre>

*"help" (after "logon=") outputs:
<pre>
CMD's = Set Ip=n.n.n.n, Set SubNetMask=n.n.n.n, Set DHCP
Set Gateway=n.n.n.n, Set WINS=n.n.n.n[, n.n.n.n], Set DNS=n.n.n.n,
Set Name=name, Set Password=password,
Help Wireless, Help SNTP, LogOff, Exit, Reset, Help
Show BOOT|FONT|APPL|ANIMATION|SNTP|WIRELESS
Ping n.n.n.n, Arp, Clear
CTRL-R = refresh display, CTRL-S = switch statistics, CTRL-D = exit
</pre>

*Communication with the sign is over port 700, but protocol is unknown and probably proprietary
*Appears to require proprietary [http://symon.com/index.asp?bid=146 Symon Enterprise Server software] in order to display messages.
*It is running a TFTP server
*It's running a web server for configuring things. Running Micro-Web

*Outdated setup manual for an old model: [http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:C969mUrZIagJ:foorum.hinnavaatlus.ee/download.php%3Fid%3D1984%26sid%3Da8c3da9e2b2d42e480e01fcb23ce502a+Symon+NetLIte+II+sign+hack&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us]

*Other Mentions: [http://www.avayausers.com/showthread.php?t=16300] [http://groups.google.com/group/symon-digital-signage/msg/6b7f54362da8125e?pli=1] (already emailed user)

== Hardware ==

* Running on an ARM-based Sharp SOC (Sharp LH7A400-N0B)
* Marked "Symon Communications / 201-1700-A01 / Rev D / 12/03/03"
* 20-pin header marked "JTAG" -- presumably regular 20-pin ARM JTAG.
* Some photos of the board [http://www.flickr.com/photos/thejof/tags/symon/ here] from [[User:Jof|jof]]
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/edrabbit/sets/72157617917163530/ Photos from edrabbit]
* On-board flash -- 2x Sharp LH28F320BFE. Datasheet: [[Image:SharpLH28F320BFE.pdf]]
* On-board SDRAM -- 2x Samsung K4S281632F. Datasheet: [[Image:SamsungK4S281632F.pdf]]

== Observations ==
* The sign appears to reboot if you write a null byte '\x00' to port 700
* The read only snmp community is "public".

== Location ==
It's on the shop wall next to the mooninite. It has a network address and a usb cable hanging down next to the SIP phone. You can see the IP address on the display. Pwn it.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Noise-Bot

2014-05-06T00:13:26Z

JohnyRadio:

:''Not to be confused with [[Noisebot]].''

Hereby known as "MC Hawking - The Wheelchair Robot"

UPDATE: MC Hawking has moved to [http://www.sudoroom.org sudoroom]!

[[User:Azureviolin|Hao]] is working on an opensource robot project [http://www.dorabot.com DORA Project], and have already mount a robotic arm on Noise-Bot/McHawking, and he refers to it as "DoraBot".

== Photos ==
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

[[File:DoraBot_2012_08_25.jpg|thumb|center|550px|DoraBot on Aug.25,2012, [http://www.dorabot.com DORA Project]]]
[[File:Noise-bot-sideview-2011.jpg|thumb|center|350px|McHawking in 2011]]
[[File:20_Noisebot.jpg|thumb|center|550px|Old Picture]]

== Videos ==
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJKXFENEDdE rachel driving rachel]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI_19brMqUU attacks a wheelchair]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-5oosZ_wq4 driving around noisebridge]

== IMPORTANT! ==

Improperly used, the robot can destroy itself, its suroundings, and run you over. Please know what you are doing and don't be afraid to ask questions.

* RTFI! Know how to engage / disengage wheel clutches, and where the power <S>switch</S> is incase it goes crazy. These instructions are found below.

* DO NOT UNPLUG THE ARDUINO IF THE WHEELCHAIR CONTROLS HAVE POWER AND THE CLUTCHES ARE ENGAGED. THE ROBOT WILL MOVE AT THE HIGHEST SPEED IN A RANDOM DIRECTION.

* Always warn humans nearby that the robot could lose control and run them over.

* DO NOT "UPGRADE" UBUNTU OR THE KERNEL ON THE HOST MACHINE! (unless you are going to stick around and make everything work with it...)

* if someone is sitting in the chair when it is on, warn them that the robot could go crazy and kill them, it has almost happened.

* We have not implemented even basic safety shutoffs, so you should be watching it all the time. It will very happily drive through its operator and the wall without stopping.

* <S>'''If it appears to be getting out of hand, the power switch is just behind the joystick, where you turned it on.''' This will power down the motors and stop it where it is immediately, with the brakes on. At this point you can disconnect the parallel-port interface and drive it home with the joystick, or </S>disengage the wheel clutches and push it home manually. [there is no longer a manual power switch for the drive. jake is looking for a STOP button]

* If it REALLY IS getting out of hand, use furniture to try to stop its movement <S>so you can get at the power switch.</S> DO NOT try to use your body to stop it, it's heavier and stronger than you are and it doesn't feel pain.

== People who have worked on it ==

* [[User:Jake|Jake]]
* Lilia
* [[User:Dr jesus|Dr. Jesus]]
* Evan
* [[User:Azureviolin|Hao]]
* [[User:Flipzagging|Neil]]

== Hardware ==

M.C. Hawking the Wheelchair Robot, AKA Noise-Bot, uses an electric wheelchair (Action Arrow Storm Series). This is a mid-sized electric wheelchair which can be dis-assembled without tools and transported in a car, which is how it got to noisebridge. It uses two 12-volt lead-acid batteries such as car batteries. The batteries are wired in series for 24 volts, and it is necessary that they are matched so that one doesn't wear-out the other during use and charging.

At this time (April 2011) the batteries have been replaced with full-size gel-cells with decent capacity.

An Arduino has been added to monitor battery voltage, and has the ability to turn off power to everything except itself and the wheelchair joystick (but that is coming soon). If the battery voltage drops below 18 volts for 25 consecutive seconds, the Arduino will turn off the computer until the batteries go above 24 volts - when the charger is hooked up.
There is also a DB25F connector wired to the Arduino so that the wheelchair's joystick interface board can plug into the Arduino instead of the PC parallel port. It is wired so that the four directions connect to four PWM-capable outputs of the Arduino.

The Arduino program is written to watch for direction commands sent by the computer through the serial interface as a two-byte sequence. Case-sensitive F B L R for the four directions, followed by a byte corresponding to the magnitude of thrust in that direction. The left-right axis is independant of the forward-backward axis. To stop, send SS (Capital S twice). All direction commands expire after one second and so must be re-sent often enough to prevent auto-cancellation. All this is moot if you have not sent a "Pz" lately, which is the command to activate the wheelchair-power-enable relay. It must be a capital-P followed by a lowercase z. This command expires after 2000 milliseconds, so your software has to send it over and over or the power relay will click off and you won't go anywhere. Read the latest version of robotpower?.pde.

'''The arduino's FTDI chip is a USB serial port, accessed at /dev/arduino1 OR at /dev/ttyUSB0'''
This was set in some udev config file, and it corresponds to this arduino's FTDI chip serial number.

You can hopefully find the latest version of the robotpower arduino program in the home directory of mchawking. This program is where things like low battery shutoff voltage, and the timeout period for motion commands, are set.
[http://spaz.org/~jake/robot-emc/robotpower8.pde | Arduino program as of September 2011]

Note that the Arduino program can't see the arduino's serial port (/dev/ttyUSB0) unless it is run by root.

[http://spaz.org/~jake/robot-emc/IMG_0602.JPG | Robot Arduino without DB25 yet]

The battery charger consists of a voltage-regulated power-supply connected to the battery pack through a large Diode. The robot has an AC power plug mounted on a bracket in between the front wheels and facing foward. There is an electrical outlet mounted on a wooden bracket at the appropriate height for electrical docking. There is a USB camera (with built-in LED lights) on the robot which allows for visual alignment of the electrical connection. In the future, the robot will be able to plug itself in by driving up to its special socket, so that the onboard computer does not have to be shut down or manually plugged into mains AC to avoid draining the batteries.

There is a computer (separate from the wheelchair controller which technically has a computer in it) which is in a stamped aluminum case just like the media server. It uses a model [http://spaz.org/~jake/robot-emc/MS-9642-Manual.pdf | MS-9642] mini-motherboard and a [http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply?sc=8&category=981 | Mini-Box M3-ATX power supply]

The box is currently powered by a custom voltage regulator made by jake. It accepts up to 40 or so volts, but will never deliver more than 23 to the M3-ATX which is hard-limited to 25 volts. If the voltage is at or below 23 volts, its FETs are in full conduction and there is zero dropout. Once on, the M3-ATX will keep the computer running unless voltage goes below 7 volts, at which point the 24-volt battery array of the wheelchair is being seriously damaged.

The voltage regulator's input plugs into a connector coming from the wheelchair controller's blue power connector, which is connected through a T-splitter going to the charger and to the batteries. '''This is where the voltage regulator gets disconnected when the computer is being worked on, so there are no shocking "surprises".''' The output of the voltage regulator goes to three tab terminals and a cord to the LCD monitor, to provide the computer's power supply with constant voltage, ground, and a second positive terminal for the unused on/off switch function of the power supply. Read up on the M3-ATX linked above.

A circuitboard zip-tied to the arm-rest interfaces the parallel port of the computer to the joystick. This circuit uses transistors to trick the wheelchair controlbox into thinking that the joystick is somewhere other than at-rest in the center. Of the eight bits of the parallel port, two make the chair go forward, two to the right, two to the left, and two backwards. For each direction, there is one bit causing low speed and another causing medium speed. Both bits cause full speed. This "speed" is separate from the speed control function of the two switches (one of which also controls on/off). A steady-state on the parallel port is not ignored by the circuit, so a computer crash will cause the chair to go out of control. In the future, the Arduino will connect instead of the PC parallel port, and it contains software to "expire" any direction command not refreshed by the PC.

Sensors have been installed on the motor which allow the computer to track movement and speed. An old ball-mouse has been disassembled and its sensors mounted on wires, and these sensors were placed at the open end of the drive motors. An optical interruptor is attached to the end of the motors' driveshafts, so the "mouse" reports movement on the x and y axes of the mouse when the left and right wheelmotors turn. The "mouse" is DB9 serial, and is seen by the computer as a serial accessory rather than as an actual Human Interface Device to move a mouse cursor (this would not be the case if a USB serial adaptor were used). The serial port corresponding to this "mouse" (which uses standard serial mouse protocol to report "movement") is '''/dev/odometry''' as set in udev config files.

An LCD monitor has been mounted permanently as the seatback. '''The ON/OFF switch for the monitor and its built-in amplified speaker-system is a pushbutton switch on the left (as you look at it) "shoulder" of the robot. Sometimes the speakers enter a feedback loop and power to the screen should be shut off to cease this irritation.''' The monitor is an [[Inexio]] touchscreen but we have not implemented the touchscreen function yet.

A robot arm made of mostly aluminum and animated by air-cylinders was fitted to the robot, but few electronic valves and no air compressor or tank have been acquired. Someone will have to invest time and energy to get the arm to do more than make the thing look more menacing. As of 11/15/2010 the arm was removed to make the robot more wieldy/less unwieldy.

Several electrically-operated linear actuators were acquired and would make great "muscles" for a large robot arm made from scratch. The air-powered arm is not a good match though, so a new arm should be made with those linear actuators causing magnified movement at joints such as elbows and a shoulder.

== Software ==

The PC is running a stock Ubuntu with PyParallel being used by the controller program to access the parallel port. All the software from the home directory as of 11/15/'''2010''' is here:

http://spaz.org/~jake/robot-emc/

As of April 2011 the software has been moved around and a lot of projects are in the works. Contact Lilia Kai at gmail or Jake at spaz if you want to get involved in reading or writing programming for the robot.

As of September 2011 the latest motor-control firmware for the Arduino is here:

http://spaz.org/~jake/robot-emc/robotpower8.pde

'''As always, the latest software is actually on the robot, in ~mchawking/ or ~mchawking/trunk/ or ~mchawking/trunk/scripts/ etc..'''

=== Login ===

username: mchawking
password: [redacted]

== Network Connection ==
The embedded PC is using a '''Cisco Aironet 1220B''' which was hardware-hacked by Jake to accept power from the ATX power supply of the computer. This consists of 3.3V and 5.0V which, plus ground, come into it with a custom three-terminal connector. A '''Generic Realtek USB 802.11b''' interface, which is sub-excellent, is also available in case the Cisco is not working or if the robot needs to access an 802.11b network.

The Cisco Aironet 1220B named wbr2 on the wheelchair associates to a matching Cisco 1220B named wbr1 at 2169 Mission. They use 802.11a to communicate on a dedicated channel. They use the default username and password for that platform. The embedded PC uses its ethernet port '''eth1''' to talk to the Noisebridge network via a connection to wbr2's ethernet port.

The embedded PC is configured from '''/etc/networks/interfaces''' Also, Network-Manager which is the gui-compatible 21st century newschool network configuration system is been pushed to the side, possibly for good. The embedded PC is now configured to find the wireless network called '''noisebridge''' and take the internal IP below.

=== Noisebridge internal IP address ===

The robot's USB wireless interface has claimed an IP on the internal network of

172.30.0.50

=== Access from outside 2169 Mission ===

Configuration of the firewall is done (thanks Jof), so that connections to the machine can be initiated from the outside world. This is important if people are expected to log in and drive it around from Germany or Singapore.

=== DNS entry ===

In the future someone will assign that IP address a '''DNS entry''' like

robot.noisebridge.net

== Local Operation ==

The electric wheelchairs' controller brain will not allow movement unless the joystick is at rest for a second when power is switched on. If the computer has not initialized the parallel port to the "stop" bitpattern, and the switch is flipped on, the green LED will flash endlessly because it thinks you are leaning on the joystick and don't intend to do so.

The drive-wheels have clutches which can be disengaged from their motors (and brakes) by pressing a button and rotating a collar until it can be pulled outwards. When the clutches are disengaged, the robot can be pushed around like a shopping cart, and the motors can be activated without actually causing movement. Sometimes the robot must be pushed forward or backward in order to engage or disengage the wheel clutches, because they are like gears and only fit together in some positions.

'''Disengaging the clutches before testing movement software is highly recommended, as you will be able to see the motors trying to run you over without the robot being able to actually do it.''' This is like taking the laser off of Johnny Five before sending him to the lightning-prone recharging booth.

== Operation Outside 2169 Mission ==

The robot has been successfully field tested at a local convention. The procedure to convert the robot for operation outside Noisebridge is:

* Connect to the Cisco Aironet 1220B wireless device behind the monitor with an RS232 to RJ45 cable, wired to the Cisco pinout, and set your computer's terminal to the appropriate baud rate and settings. The following instructions assume familiarity with the programming of Cisco wireless devices through a serial connection.
* Log into wbr2 and say "enable". Enter the password.
* Say "copy nvram:outside-config nvram:startup-config", then "reload".
* Once wbr2 has restarted, there will be an 802.11a wireless network named "robots" you can associate to.
* Secure any loose items on the robot. Put a garbage bag or something over the rest to protect connectors from splashes.
* Inflate the tires and check for leaks.
* Charge the robot's batteries fully, just in case.
* Power down the robot and move it to wherever it needs to go. Follow the instructions under "local control" if you'll be driving.
* Once at the destination, if your computer has 802.11a (5.8GHz) wifi (many Macbook Pros have this), you can log into 172.30.0.50 over the "robots" wireless network to do whatever you need to do.

When ready to return:
* Charge the robots batteries fully.
* Put a splash guard on the robot's exposed bits again.
* Secure any loose items on the robot.
* Inflate the tires and check for leaks.
* Power down the robot and move it back to 2169. Do not do this in a hurry. Take note of public transit instructions for wheelchair users BEFORE arriving at the station or stop.
* Once back at 2169, clean the robot.
* Log into wbr2 and say "enable". Enter the password.
* Say "copy nvram:noisebridge-config nvram:startup-config", then "reload".

=== Autonomous Behaviors ===
==== Face Following ====
# Switch on monitor & grab wireless keyboard.
# Switch on wheelchair (on low speed!) and
# As user mchawking, open a terminal window in home directory.
# <S>./botsetup.sh </S>
# cd trunk/scripts/lilia/
# python noise-bot.py

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

NoiseScooter

2014-05-06T00:13:05Z

JohnyRadio:

The scooter is publicly available for people to use around the Noisebridge space or run nearby errands. Please don't take it home with you or use it when the space is crowded.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
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File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

Now Playing

2014-05-06T00:12:49Z

JohnyRadio:

The "Now Playing" whiteboard at the entrance to Noisebridge lists the day's current events.

When updating the Now Playing whiteboard, remember to:
* Put the day and date (e.g. Saturday, June 5th)
* List the events, the times they occur, and where (e.g. Weekly Meeting, 8pm-9pm, Couch Area)

If you see that the whiteboard is out of date, please erase it.

Please leave the marker and eraser by the whiteboard.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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</gallery>

Front door latch buzzer interface

2014-05-06T00:12:41Z

JohnyRadio:

The front door latch buzzer is controlled by an optoisolator hooked up the parallel port of a laptop

the front door latch automation won't work unless this laptop is running

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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</gallery>

Espressomaker

2014-05-06T00:12:25Z

JohnyRadio:

The Espresso Machine needs some tlc.

We bypassed the leaky milk frother and the machine rose from the ashes to make 1 shot of espresso before dying again. It now blinks as if it were heating the water. The heater does get hot, and putting a hi-pot on the heater thermistor to simulate a higher temperature does not work.

It is on a cart in the kitchen with the milk frother parts. We will mess with it again soon.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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</gallery>

Elevator Buzzer

2014-05-06T00:12:15Z

JohnyRadio:

As of 11-02-01 there is a second button installed by the first floor elevator call button. This second button triggers a very loud buzzer installed over the main door on the third floor. Please push this button if you need to use the elevator but the call button is not working (see explanation for this at [[Elevator]]).

If you hear this buzzer, which is much louder and more obnoxious than the front door buzzer, please immediately go get in the elevator and ride it down to the first floor. Someone needs it there and is unable to come up and get it.

Possible improvements to the system include flashing light, swapping it out for an intercom, making it buzz continuously until turned off by someone taking the elevator down, etc. If you are inspired to do any of these things, <gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
or anything else you think of, go for it! Ask [[User:rachel|Rachel McConnell]] or Jake (spaz not Appelbaum) if you want more details on the buzzer system.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Ryobi drill press

2014-05-06T00:12:06Z

JohnyRadio:

TODO: add instructions and safety tips for how to use the drill press to this page.

= Current Status =

= Overview =

* Official Website - http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/power_tools/benchtop/DP102L
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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</gallery>

The Ryobi 10' Drill press is used to drill holes ''([and other tasks|http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_press#Drill_press])''.

= Manual =

* PDF: Ryobi Drill Press Manual http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/591/DP102L_641_trilingual_08.pdf
* Ryobi Drill Press Repair Sheet - http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/38/DP102L_641_r.pdf

== Tips ==

=== Safety Tips ===

* Page 5 of the Manual has a number of safety tips

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Dishwasher

2014-05-06T00:11:57Z

JohnyRadio:

Darkroom/Resources/Prinz Film Dryer

2014-05-06T00:11:48Z

JohnyRadio:

==Does it work?==
Yes!

==Where does it live?==
When stored its on top of the shelf above the sink. '''Please be sure to zip the bag up and not expose the inside to any surfaces!'''

When in use it sits on the two screws outside and to the right of the darkroom door.

[[File:Prinz-film-dryer.jpg|300px]]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

Darkroom/Resources/HP Scanjet G4010

2014-05-06T00:11:38Z

JohnyRadio:

==Does it work==

Not really, it leaves a 10-20mm stripe of light and black vertically pretty much at the middle of the scan area. Sometimes it hangs too, causing some scanning software to crash. The USB cable that came with it was kinda broken but changing it didn't fix anything.

I recommend using it with xsane on any recent version of Linux. It works out of the box and is able to cope with the errors from the scanner (until the thing totally refuses to scan).

==What does it scan==
Flatbed things, 35mm

==Where does it live==
Currently on top of the black help in the darkroom.

==What belongs to the scanner==
*Scanner!
*AC/DC adapter (labeled)
*USB cable
*Built in 35mm loader
*Replacement loaders for 35mm, slides, medium format

==Loaders==
The built in loader is white, it's built in, you'll know what I mean when see it. This particular loader I found to be about 2-4mm too skinny, so I took a Dremel to it. That was a dumb idea and it's kind of crap tastic now.

I ordered a replacement loader from a site that said should work, words from HP apparently. When I got the loader, loaders actually, they're totally not specifically made for the G4010, but it lines up right, it just might work. Haven't tested.

==Manual==
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DocumentIndex.jsp?contentType=SupportManual&lang=en&cc=us&docIndexId=64179&taskId=135&prodTypeId=15179&prodSeriesId=3236364

==Drivers==
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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</gallery>
DriverDownload.jsp?prodNameId=3236365&lang=en&cc=us&taskId=135&prodTypeId=15179&prodSeriesId=3236364

Should work with Sane under Linux.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Darkroom

2014-05-06T00:11:27Z

JohnyRadio:

==About==
The darkroom is located on the east side in between the emergency exit and the bathrooms. This room may also be used for silk screening, general chemistry that requires a sink and moderate ventilation (but not a hood) and any light-sensitive work.

* '''[https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ Mailing List]''' - Participate in discussion, please join and tell us about your cool photog projects.
* '''[https://www.google.com/calendar/embed?src=starset.net_tkhoabssh632d7rdvm3t2p25bg@group.calendar.google.com&ctz=America/Los_Angeles&gsessionid=OK Google Calendar]''' - [http://www.google.com/calendar/feeds/starset.net_tkhoabssh632d7rdvm3t2p25bg%40group.calendar.google.com/public/basic XML] - [http://www.google.com/calendar/ical/starset.net_tkhoabssh632d7rdvm3t2p25bg%40group.calendar.google.com/public/basic.ics iCal] - [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ Email our discussion list] to be added to the calendar.

{{buglink|25}} is about improving the darkroom.

==How Do I Use The Darkroom=<gallery mode="packed-hover">
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=
Anyone is welcome to use the darkroom just as long as our general rule of being excellent to each other is followed! Here are some other guidelines you might find useful.

===General Usage Guidelines===
# '''Introductions and project discussion''' - Have you met anyone else using the darkroom? If not we'd love to meet you and see what awesome things you're wanting to work on. Please make a [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ post to our discussion list] and introduce yourself to the group. By doing this you basically get free help from a fairly well size community to folks on how to be utilized the space and equipment, and also by communicating purpose and resource needs we all can get a better idea of how to have our projects coexist in the space.
# '''Check the darkroom calendar and schedule time''' - [https://www.google.com/calendar/embed?src=starset.net_tkhoabssh632d7rdvm3t2p25bg@group.calendar.google.com&ctz=America/Los_Angeles&gsessionid=OK We have a calendar], it contains dates of times when people are going to use the darkroom. This is great as it allows for collaboration and also helps with scheduling conflicts (it's a small space :P). Email our discussion list to be added to the calendar.
# '''Keep the space just as neat and clean as before you found it''' - Many of us use the space, and only have limited time to do so. When the space is dirty, or resources aren't where we expect them, life sucks. Please be kind of help to make sure the darkroom is just as neat and organized as you found it (or even better, cleaner then it was before!).
# '''Bring up discussion about changes to the darkroom''' - Want to change something in the darkroom for the better? Already changed something? Great! Bring it up on the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ mailing list] so we all can bask in the new founded value of your alterations!
# '''Communicate to the group when equipment breaks or supplies run dry''' - Many of the equipment we have is old and hand me downs, just in the brink of utter self destruction. Things are bound to break and run out, if this happens, fret not, most likely not your fault. Even if it was, please [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ email our discussion list] and notify the rest of the community. We don't care who did what, but are more concerned with replacing whatever needs replacing. :)
# '''Personal projects and the Darkroom''' - Noisebridge doesn't not provide any guaranty on personal projects kept in the space, this also includes tools and consumables. Personal projects generally belong on the user/members shelves on the other side of the space which is out of the way of others doing projects. People from time to time do keep personal photo projects that make logical sense to be kept in the darkroom, there. Note that it's not the proper place but if you do use the darkroom please keep your items out of the way, and well labeled with your email address and a date. If your items in the space are a problem to someone, they'll do something about it. Consumables will most likely get mistaken for general donated items and be used. Keep things in the darkroom and Noisebridge in general at your own risk, you've been warned.
# '''Have fun!''' - Make cool things, have fun doing it!

===Film Development Guidelines===
*[[Darkroom/BW_Film_Development| Basic BW Film Development Guidelines]]
*[[Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development|Rapid C41 Film Development]]
*[[Darkroom/Rapid E-6 Film Development|Rapid E6 Film Development]]
*[[Darkroom/E6 development]] - We are getting together supplies to do E6 development. If you have slide film you'd like to develop, add yourself to [[Darkroom/E6 development#Development_queue | the queue]]!
*We hope to be able to do automated C41 processing. We have an [[Agfa FP200 Color Film Developer]] which has yet to be polished up and tested.

==Classes and Learning==
Anyone is welcome to teach a workshop or class using the darkroom. Just email the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ mailing list] and add the time to our [https://www.google.com/calendar/embed?src=starset.net_tkhoabssh632d7rdvm3t2p25bg@group.calendar.google.com&ctz=America/Los_Angeles&gsessionid=OK Google Calendar].

* General 35mm film processing class, TBA --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 19:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* Lightroom, TBA --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 19:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* Scanning yo film, sucka, TBA --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 19:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* [[Darkroom/Lightning Talks | Lightning Talks]] - [[User:Hurtstotouchfire | hurtstotouchfire]] is attempting to get together a night of lightning talks. Small doses of awesome for your ADD enjoyment!

==[[Darkroom/Resources|Resources]]==
*Check out the [[Darkroom/Resources|Resources]] page for a list of all of our gear.
*[[Darkroom/Chemical Purchasing | Chemical Wishlist]] - We are looking into getting a purchasing account with a chemical supply company, please list items you want to buy on this page so we can accumulate an initial shopping list.

==Images==
There is a [http://www.flickr.com/groups/nb-optics/ flickr pool] that showcases members' photohacking endeavors, including some that have been done at Noisebridge and in the darkroom. Maybe one day we will get around to [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:RSS_Reader aggregating those images here on the wiki].

==To Do: Construction and Organization==
* Address light leaks over the door, under the wall, fan area, possibly put up a curtain
* Fixer waste judge --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* Negative scanners - Get rid of them
* Color processor
* Chemical audit
** Write note about leaving tick marks on jug after useage
* General house keeping
* Moving the the film dryer into the Darkroom, away from metal things --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* Make a smarter darkroom in use light --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* Fix the water heater --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:23, 17 May 2012 (UTC)
* Integrate the awesomeness that is [[Nburl]] into the darkroom, tag everything

===Things that could be bought===
* White masking tape
* More jugs
* Dish strainer
* Wire shelves for drying this in the black shelves

==Seeking Donations==
*Cartridge for Minolta film scanner
*film frames for enlarger (make?)
*print washer
*Print squeegeeing surface
*Color print developer (also, a hasselblads, kthx) oh and a SCSI card! fr rls!
*contact print frames
*UV lights
*conductive glass / ITO/FTO
*Sump box and pump for drain & chems
*Chemwaste jug for fixer

==Meetings==
We had a meeting! There have been others, but we didn't take notes. Maybe we'll take notes again someday.

Agenda and meeting notes...

* [[Darkroom/Meetings/20091020|October 20th, 2009]]
* [[Darkroom/Meetings/20120516|May 16th, 2012]]

==Web cam==

A web cam has been installed in the dark room to provide a live feed:

[[File:Darkroomwebcam.gif]]

[[category:pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Classrooms

2014-05-06T00:11:17Z

JohnyRadio:

Noisebridge has two classrooms.

===Turing===
The Turing classroom is set up for software development and hacking. It is named after [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Turing Alan Turing].

===Church===
The Church classroom is in the back and slightly larger than Turing. It is named after [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alonzo_Church Alonzo Church].

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge T<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
iny URL]]

[[image:Noisebridge_map.png|1000px]]

ChangeLog

2014-05-06T00:11:07Z

JohnyRadio:

If you make a change to the space that would require a lot of work to reverse (or you would rather people didn't reverse), record it here.
Just hit "edit" at the top of the page, and add away. Don't worry too much about formatting, I'll fix it.

If you put click on the signature button in the editor, (the squiggle button next to the crossed out W and the horizontal line) you'll leave your name and a time and date.

Separate entries with "----", precede them with --. See other entries for examples. Add them to the top.

If you see something that needs to be fixed, record it on [[Bugs]]

----
--[[User:Azureviolin|Hao]] 15:19, 25 Augus<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
t 2012 (PDT)
* Put the noisebridge flag back to the gate!

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] ([[User talk:Malaclyps|talk]]) 04:36, 25 August 2012 (UTC)
* Put up LCD connected to [[Minotaur]], strawman screen showing at https://minotaur.noisebridge.net/status/display/

--[[User:Eric Vinyl|Eric Vinyl]] 17:00, 11 August 2012 (PDT)
* Moved some accessories near Pole 1 to relevant spaces in [[Shelves|Hacker Alley]]

----

--[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]]
* Installed some USB audio gear into Stallion with hopes of some day having audio controlled directly from that machine.

--[[Special:Contributions/67.188.9.5|67.188.9.5]] 05:29, 22 June 2012 (UTC)
* improved captchas on the wiki. Details on the wiki machine's changelog, Let me know if it breaks anything.

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 06:22, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
* Rebooted asterisk on pony -- it gave up calling one of our SIP services, I think in the DNS failure.

--[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 01:51, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
* Putting the speakers and juke box back together in the Hack Cafe area.

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 19:42, 6 June 2012 (UTC)
* Miloh got us internet archive bandwidth.

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 01:32, 6 June 2012 (UTC)
* Minotaur upgraded to 12.04, /etc/resolvconf disabled for dnsmasq (on /etc/default/dnsmasq ) as it was misbehaving

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 21:38, 4 June 2012 (UTC)
* Got OKI 5200C printer working (ethernet was out, was getting DHCP ip rather than one on label). Not sure if IP will stick. Have set it up so that I gets told if it stops working again.

--[[User:Flamsmark|Flamsmark]] 02:18, 20 May 2012 (UTC)
* Adjusted blue ocean patten curtain on West wall with a small pin into the window-frame so that it protects the Hackatorium tables from sunlight for more of the day. Please revert or improve if desired.

-- Lilia 18:28, 5 May 2012 (UTC)
* Installed Noisemachine on wall between Turing doorway and first aid box.

--[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:50, 5 May 2012 (UTC)
* fixed doorbell electronic latch so it didn't stick and keep buzzing..

--[[Special:Contributions/216.239.45.4|216.239.45.4]] 22:03, 4 May 2012 (UTC) (asheem)
* Replaced corroded doorbell switches, restored doorbell functionality.
* Noted malfunction from gate control that causes the gate to stay open/buzzing.

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 01:09, 29 April 2012 (UTC)
* [[User:SuperQ|SuperQ]] layed out conduit to bring permanent lights to Church

--[[User:Hipe|Hipe]] 00:51, 29 April 2012 (UTC)
* Kitchen cabinets moved to improve compact-ness and reduce eyesore.
* Beginnings of labelling every cupboard, making sure contents correspond to labels
* Extraneous kitchen utensils and cookware moved to storage (including 12 un-paired pan lids)

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 23:41, 27 April 2012 (UTC)
* Fruit-fly attracting fruit vinegar excess moved out.

--[[User:Rayc|Rayc]] 21:53, 27 April 2012 (UTC)
* Installed a light fixture inside of the Church class room with a switch that is plugged into the outlet connected to the outside of the SEM room wall, adjacent to the back stairwell.
* In addition, I also rotated the florescent fixture that was parallel to the East Wall 180 degrees so that it also illuminates the Church class room as well. Fixes Bug #3.

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 03:09, 26 April 2012 (UTC)
* Delivery of USB enclosures, Francisco, Catherine helped.
* Probed at broken buzzer at top -- no wires seem loose within the main door/listen/talk box.
* Replicator Wednesday livestreamed http://www.ustream.tv/channel/noisebridge

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 19:22, 23 April 2012 (UTC)
* Martin cleaned up lasercutter, taught Rayc tips on how to clean it.

--[[Special:Contributions/199.188.193.145|199.188.193.145]] 02:03, 22 April 2012 (UTC)
* Working lights in Turing!

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 19:09, 21 April 2012 (UTC)
* Air compressor for laser cutter needed new brass fitting, fixed by Martin B. (who also cleaned around)
* RetinaEngrave downloaded and re-installed, printer driver now working from InkScape
** Remember! RetinaEngrave must be running in order to use it as a printer driver. Windows will not run the 'driver' for you. **

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 05:29, 21 April 2012 (UTC)
* The noisebridge-api now installs as its own Debian package on pony.

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 00:12, 21 April 2012 (UTC)
* Wood brought in by [[User:miloh]] for third electronics bench. Woohoo!
----
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 22:41, 20 April 2012 (UTC)
* We now have [[Dead Drop]] in the gatephone, courtesy of James
----

--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 20:47, 20 April 2012 (UTC)
* Cleaned out tar in gateway entry callbox.

* Filed bug report via discuss re: broken buzzer

----

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Bugs

2014-05-06T00:10:56Z

JohnyRadio:

Hit edit, and add your bug to the bottom. See the other bugs for the template. To sign your name with time and date, type "--&tilde;&tilde;&tilde;&tilde;". It'll be expanded to your username and the time when you save the page.

{{bug|1}}
We need a better bug tracker than this. [[User:Miloh]] has been looking at [http://roundup.sourceforge.net/ Roundup] as a solution, as recommended by [[User:Malaclyps]]
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 21:00, 20 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|2}}
FIXED The downstairs buzzer is broken. I'll ping the gate hackers.
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 21:<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
00, 20 April 2012 (UTC)

Still broken. Jake's back on Saturday, maybe will check it then.
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 05:46, 29 April 2012 (UTC)

Asheem fixed --[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 19:23, 4 May 2012 (UTC)

----

{{bug|3}}
Lighting in Church is non-operational.
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 21:46, 20 April 2012 (UTC)

Temporary fix -- fluorescent lights now powered through outlet --[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 21:56, 28 April 2012 (UTC)

[[User:SuperQ|SuperQ]] is working on putting on the pipes this Saturday --[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 20:54, 23 April 2012 (UTC)

----

{{bug|4}}
FIXED
<del>We need a CO2 extinguisher for the lasercutter. The current one will destroy the machine.</del>
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 19:12, 21 April 2012 (UTC)

Bought one on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ECQ5MA ) will arrive within the week. --[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 20:59, 23 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|5}}

<del>LED lights out on the laser cutter. Might just be me. Forgot where the switch is.</del> WORKSFORME
--[[User:miloh|miloh]] [[Special:Contributions/50.0.133.59|50.0.133.59]] 16:37, 23 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|6}}

FIXED <strike>https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/neuro [[User:EmbeddedLinuxGuy|Jesse Zbikowski]] 08:19, 5 June 2012 (UTC)

openeeg needs to be deleted or renamed to a more general neural list</strike>
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 05:16, 25 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|7}}

FIXED <strike>floor between hackitorium and EE benches is muddy <strike>
--[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 05:23, 25 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|8}}

<del>broken sofa in the library, needs throwing out</del> "I fixed the couch." -RAYC
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 21:58, 27 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|9}}

FIXED <strike>Wiki needs a better anti-spam captcha on the new user page<strike>

----
{{bug|10}}

311 needs to be revamped, better publicised
----
{{bug|11}}

FIXED <del>one of the 8 ft ladders has been borrowed, getting it back</del>
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 07:58, 30 April 2012 (UTC)

Borrower has returned it
--[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 09:54, 30 April 2012 (UTC)

----
{{bug|12}}

FIXED <strike>MCHawking needs a IP tunnel so that it can be reached from the outside world.<strike>

Jof and SuperQ are working on this. --[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 03:51, 2 May 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|13}}

Other 8 ft ladder still missing. --[[User:Malaclyps|Malaclyps]] 19:23, 4 May 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|14}}
FIXED for now <strike>spammers keep creating users on the noisebridge.net wiki. It's making me crazy, and making the 'recent changes' page abs useless. The gentle anarchist maker is redirected to [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Combating_spam combating spam on mediawiki installs], perhaps it's time for mediawiki extensions that abate spam with [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:SpamBlacklist blacklists]. </strike>
--[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 22:53, 5 May 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|15}}

FIXED <strike>Membership shelf fell over in 5mof. No blame. Can someone carefully pick it up?</strike>

--[[Special:Contributions/50.131.248.193|50.131.248.193]] 06:21, 18 May 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|16}}

Dead drop located in the bottom of the payphone had the USB 2.0 cable cut by some jerk. Needs to be re-spliced with a new connector.
-[[User:jsnb|James]]

{{bug|17}}

FIXED <strike>Elevator: no access. Call it to any floor, it resets to first floor. Cannot open gate on first floor.</strike> --˜˜˜˜

{{bug|18}}

Calling 311 needs improvement. You can't really use it in an emergency.

{{bug|19}}

Get some touch panel system setup through out the space to provide information and event times, possibly to show when a classroom is reserved. Android tablets seem like a more cost effective choice then getting the older clunky touch screens going. --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:50, 22 June 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|20}}

The "AV Center" is kind of a mess, would be better if it was cleaned up and integrated into some thing a little more permanent. --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:50, 22 June 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|21}}

Music in the space is a mess, it would be great if it all ran off of a single machine. --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:50, 22 June 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|22}}

Lighting in the space is fucked, would be great if we had even lighting and it was all control through some system (like the mentioned touch panels). --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:50, 22 June 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|23}}

It's hard to diagnose a problem with the "internet" at Noisebridge, it would be great if there was a display next to the wall-o-tubes which provided clear stats on how well the internet is working. --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 18:50, 22 June 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|24}}

Noisebridge API doesn't send a consenso TTS through pulseaudio setup when 'opengate' is triggered on pony.noise. It currently only sends TTS notifications of door-status to the system audio on horsy.noise
https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/API [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 21:09, 27 June 2012 (UTC)

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

{{bug|25}}

Noisebridge [[darkroom]] is not finished [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] ([[User talk:Miloh|talk]]) 20:21, 10 September 2012 (UTC)
This list is not complete nor in optimized order
door needs to be framed.
fan vent needs to be finished
fan vent switch needs to be wired up

{{bug|26}}
Facility closet is not finished [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] ([[User talk:Miloh|talk]]) 20:21, 10 September 2012 (UTC)
This list is not complete nor in optimized order
Facility closet needs roof.
Facility closet needs floor
Facility closet needs wirup

{{bug|27}}
Shelves at Noisebridge fell over on my shit.
My shit (well, my friend's stuff) was under a shelf that fell over. The stuff got crushed. The shelves were lashed to a column by [[User:miloh|miloh]] and a very intoxicated [[User:jbm|jbm]], but this is only a temporary repair. I want reparations to the friend's damaged goods and shelves to get replaced with shelves that don't fall over.
[[Category:Shelving]]

{{bug|28}}
FIXED <del>Typing a valid code into the payphone causes the blue light to go on, but the gate does not open.</del>
 RESOLUTION: [[User:MCT|mct]] & [[User:flamsmark|tom]] repaired this. Additional documentation is provided at [[gate]].

{{bug|29}}
There is no power running to any of the sockets on the East wall, including those in and around the DJ booth. Temporarily mitigated by running an extension from the box behind the fridge to the DJ booth.

{{bug|30}}
FIXED <del>The doorbell buzzer is not working. Observed October 23, 2012 [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] ([[User talk:Miloh|talk]]) 17:55, 25 October 2012 (UTC)</del>
 The gate open button next to the upstairs door is not working.[[Special:Contributions/199.188.193.145|199.188.193.145]] 19:19, 12 November 2012 (UTC)

{{bug|31}}
The downstairs door electrically-releaseable strike-plate device is not working well enough. It needs to be oiled periodically or the door doesn't latch when closed, it just rests on the latch, unlocked. This will be helped by fixing bug #32, broken door latch assembly. It would also be helped by increasing the door closer strength either by adjusting or replacing the door closer. Observed November 30, 2012 [[User:Jake|Jake]]

{{bug|32}}
The downstairs door latch assembly is broken. This is the part that sticks out of the swinging gate and sticks into the electrically-releaseable strike-plate device. The problem is that the [http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n238/UWSDWF/deadlatch1.jpg deadlatch] component of the [http://www.masterdoorlock.com/images/illustrations/large/deadlatch.gif door latch assembly] is gone, and so the latch bolt flops around loosely. People have been penetrating our security using a BART card or whatever they want. We need to replace the latch assembly. It is a Schlage. This is not the landlords' job, as we make 99% of the traffic through that door and 100% of the tampering with it. Observed November 30, 2012 [[User:Jake|Jake]]

FIXED Gate latch assembly has been replaced, Robert (not RayC) bought a new one and wants to be reimbursed. Electrical actuator now secured to fastening plate with bolts & nuts. Additionally, hydralic dampener has been adjusted; gate now gently closes & locks. 12/29/12 robb

User:Creativetaboo

2014-05-06T00:10:37Z

JohnyRadio:

[[Category:Members]] [[Category:Council]]
== About ==

I am a social engineer, hacker, maker, geek.

Talk to me via email: mmartiniere at gmail dot com or IRC @creativetaboo
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

By day, I work with community organizations, hackerspaces, coworking spaces, hackathons, technology startups, and R&D labs to help them create a collaborative, sustainable, and scalable communities. By night I like to play with microcontrollers and small-scale robotics. Sometimes I write articles about wearable technology and bio-hacking.

Been in and around hackerspaces since 2009. I worked on this documentary on hackerspaces [http://electromagnate.com/], help out Power Racing Series [http://www.powerracingseries.org/] and have had a part with PS: One [http://pumpingstationone.org/] , Freeside ATL [https://wiki.freesideatlanta.org/], Dallas Makerspace [http://dallasmakerspace.org/], and Idea Engine (founder, R&D lab).

Let's collaborate and make something awesome!

== Skills ==
If you want to know how to do any of the below, don't hesitate. I love to teach.

Web development 
Wearable technology 
Basic electronics 
Community development 
Life and mind hacks 
Fiber Arts (Sewing, Knitting, Crochet, Embroidery, etc.) 
Home Brewing and liquor infusions 

== Interests ==
Things I know a bit about, but would love someone to help me learn more!

Arduino 
Raspberry Pi 
Ruby on Rails 
Robots 
"Internet of things" 
Biology/ecology/SCIENCE 

== Projects ==
[[Noisebridge Monthly Cleanup]]

== Membership Sponsors ==

Council Member as of 1/14/2014 [https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2014_01_14#Madalynn.27s_Membership]

* ''Strong support for membership'' --[[User:Deeplyuncertain|Deeplyuncertain]] ([[User talk:Deeplyuncertain|talk]]) 21:03, 28 November 2013 (UTC)
*[[User:Thex|thex]] ([[User talk:Thex|talk]]) 19:48, 3 December 2013 (UTC)
*[[User:Dana|Dana]] ([[User talk:Dana|talk]]) 21:16, 3 December 2013 (UTC)
* [[User:MadCap|MadCap]] ([[User talk:MadCap|talk]]) 02:19, 8 December 2013 (UTC)

Board/History

2014-05-06T00:10:26Z

JohnyRadio:

== 2014 ==

* [[User:Tensory|Ari Lacenski]]
* [[User:Nthmost|Naomi Most]]
* [[User:Creativetaboo|Madelynn Martinierre]]
* [[User:AlSweigart|Al Sweigart]]
* [[User:Flamsmark|Tom Lowenthal]]

== 2013 ==

=== Board ===

* [[User:MCT|MCT]]<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>

* [[User:Leif|Leif]]
* [[User:Merlin|Merlin]]
* [[User:Ping|Ping]]
* [[User:Yan|Yan]]

The 2013 board of Noisebridge was decided at the [[Meeting Notes 2013 03 05|Tuesday, March 5th meeting]].

=== Officers ===

* Snail (President)
* Danny O'Brien (Chief Financial Officer) - Contact: treasurer@noisebridge.net
* Tom Lowenthal (Secretary) - Contact: secretary@noisebridge.net

== 2012 ==

[[Board meeting 2012-05-16]]

=== Board ===
* [[User:Miloh|Miloh Alexander]]
* [[User:Malaclyps|Danny O'Brien]]
* [[User:Snail|Snail]]
* [[User:Lizzard|Liz Henry]]
* [[User:adi|Andy Isaacson]]

The 2012 board of Noisebridge was decided at the [[Meeting Notes 2012 02 07|Tuesday, February 7th meeting]].

=== Officers ===

* Snail (President)
* Kelly Buchanan (Chief Financial Officer) - Contact: treasurer@noisebridge.net
* Danny O'Brien (Secretary) - Contact: secretary@noisebridge.net

== 2011 ==

[[Board meeting 2011-12-24]]

=== Board ===
* [[User:Miloh|Miloh Alexander]]
* Rachel Lyra Hospodar
* [[User:Malaclyps|Danny O'Brien]]
* [[User:jof|Jonathan Lassoff]]
* [[User:AlSweigart|Al Sweigart]]

The 2011 board of Noisebridge was decided at the [[Meeting Notes 2011 01 18|Tuesday, January 18th meeting]].

=== Officers ===
* Jonathan Lassoff (President)
* Kelly Buchanan (Chief Financial Officer) - Contact: treasurer@noisebridge.net
* Danny O'Brien (Secretary) - Contact: secretary@noisebridge.net

== 2010 ==

[[Board meeting 2010-12-14]]

=== Board ===
* Miloh Alexander
* Ani Niow
* Shannon Lee
* Andy Isaacson
* Rachel McConnell

=== Officers ===
* Jake Appelbaum (Executive Director)
* Jeffrey Malone (Treasurer)
* Seth Schoen (Secretary)

== 2009 ==
[[board meeting 2009-10-15]]

=== Board ===
* Mitch Altman
* Jake Appelbaum
* Rachel McConnell
* Andy Issacson
* Shannon Lee (replaced Noah Balmer)

=== Officers ===
* Jake Appelbaum (Executive Director)
* Mitch Altman (Treasurer)
* David Molnar (Secretary)

The initial board and officers of Noisebridge were decided at the [[Meeting Notes 2008 06 17|Tuesday 2008-06-17]] meeting.

== 2008 ==
* initial real meeting [[board meeting 2008-09-07]]

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Big LED Screen

2014-05-06T00:10:14Z

JohnyRadio:

= The Big LED Screen =

=== Overview ===

* Dimensions (in pixels) are 128 by 48
* The buffer board stores data into a couple memory chips, which are then accessible to the daughterboards which drive the actual LEDs.
* There are four daughterboards, in two chains of length two. Each of these daughterboards is connected to a single "section" of LEDs (ie: there are four big "sections" of LEDs). Each daughterboard runs a section of 32 by 48 pixels.

=== History ===

* Originally controlled by a 386; mobo is shot.
* The 386 connects via ISA to a "buffer board" which looks to be a memory buffer and power conditioner.
* The "buffer board" has most traces terminating to a socket with a missing chip, so we don't know what happened here.

==== Buffer board ====

Tonight (2008-12-30) Josh worked from the backend up a bit, but eventually gave up. He then moved to the ISA frontside and worked down, which was far more productive.

The device appears to sit at ISA IO por<gallery mode="packed-hover">
File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:047.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
</gallery>
ts 0x180 through 0x183. The addresses are decoded by U51 (74688 comparator), which then hits the OE2 on U52-19 (74541 driver iirc). This is then used to feed U53 and U54 (both 74574 D-flip-flops). These appear to be there to combat fan-out. He's not entirely certain where these go, but it seemed like they were going into the RAMs.

The low bits of the ISA address selection sit on the rightmost two pins on the top row of the header, SA1 and SA0, in that order (Just hook the connector up and use the multimeter if that's nonsensical). I haven't traced them through yet; I was in the middle of it when my time ran out. They look to run over to the empty chip socket on the right side of the board. Most traces tend to terminate at this chip socket, so most likely we won't be able to use the display logic on the buffer board.

==== Daughterboards ====

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/31848713@N00/3430719610/ Picture of a daughterboard]

The daughterboards each have qty 3 UCN5832A ([[Image:Ucn5832.pdf]]) 32-bit shift registers (for a total of 96 bits) which drive an array of 32 by 48 pixels (for a total of 1536). The theory is the other end of the LEDs are connected to 16 different power sources, making all the LEDs addressable (96 * 16 = 1536). (The shift register does a current sink)

The daughterboards receive serial based on the following:

* The long 10-pin pigtails are as follows:
1 - UCN-40 CLK (serial clock)
2 - GND
3 - UCN-4 STROBE (latch driver)
4 - GND
5 - UCN-2 SIN (serial in)
6 - GND
7 - UCN-3 GND
8 - GND
9 - GND

Pin 1 is marked red. When looking into the end of the connector, when the red-marked wire is on the left, odd pins are on top. The keyed edge of the connector is also on top. The top left pin is pin 1.

Per Josh, the grounds do not need to be connected for now.

The serial is daisy chained together. There are two sets of two daughterboards (four daughterboards total) with 3 shift registers on each daughterboard. So, each chain of shift registers includes 6 shift registers for a total of 192 bits per chain.

* The 10-pin ports between the daughterboards (J3 and J2) are wired differently. J3 is:
1 -
2 -
3 -
4 -
5 - ground
6 -
7 - clock
8 -
9 - serial out (j2) / serial in (j3)
10 -

(The existing logic shifts out 200 bits instead of 192; we don't know why).

Looking at the sign doing STROBE: sequences 130us apart, within each sequence, 5 peaks @+5V, 4us each high, otherwise the signal is low.

Looking at CLK: We do a bunch of lcokign, the strobe, etc. 8 CLKs in 5us, entire process takes 125us, appx 200CLKs. This gives an input rate of 1.6MHz(!)

The shift register is rated for 3.3Mhz, so we could conceivably drive it faster than the 1.5Mhz that it's currently running.

== Current Operation ==

=== Overview ===

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/31848713@N00/3430728760/in/photostream/ Overview of the inside of the screen (picture)]

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/31848713@N00/3429916211/in/photostream/ Detail of our breadboard (picture)]

==== LED Hardware ====

The sign is currently driven by two boarduinos on a solderless breadboard. One controls the left half of the sign, and the other controls the right half.

The old hardware buffer board has 16 power sources that it cycles through in sequence. It goes through each cycle of 16 power sources at about 500 Hz. (So it changes power sources every 1/8000th of a second).

Each boarduino shifts bits out along a serial line controlling 192 shift registers. These shift registers act as controllable current-limited drains.

The LEDs on the display have their anodes connected to the power sources. Each anode is shared by 192 LEDs.

The LEDs on the display have their cathodes connected to the shift registers. Each shift register pin is shared by 16 LEDs.

This gives us 3072 LEDs per half of the display, which are arranged into an array 64 LEDs wide by 48 LEDs tall.

The boarduinos have connections to the preexisting circuitry to tell which power source is in use at any time, and send the respective data to the shift registers for display.

We also have an xbee series 1 (802.15.4) wireless chip onboard so we don't have to open up the sign to talk to it.

==== Software ====

Though we are using arduino compatible hardware, we are using AVR-GCC to compile native code directly for the atmel mega168 chip on the boarduino. The arduino framework does not perform well enough nor allow us good access to the atmega168 integrated chip features such as SPI and TWI.

We are using lady ada's arduino bootloader. This acts like an atmel stk500 programmer, and allows us to upload software over the wireless connection.

The XBEE wireless chip has virtual transparenet pins configured so we can control the reset pins of the two boarduinos independently, and upload new code to each half of the sign at a time.

The two halves talk to each other using the TWI interface on the atmega168.

=== Pin connections ===

[[Image:ledscreen-schematic.png|500px]]

Here are the pins that need to be connected other than power and ground:

* MOSI (PB3) - this sends serial data to the daughterboard
* SCK (PB5) - this sends lcock signal to the daughterboard
* PB1 - this should be connected to the latch/strobe signal from the old buffer board
* PB0 - this should be connected to the latch/strobe signal going to the daughterboard
* PD7 - this should be hooked up to the left side of one of the power sources on the buffer board through a voltage divider (and small capacitor to stabilize the signal) to bring the 15 volts down to 5 volts. Do not use the output of the power source, since it's not nearly as stable.

It uses the existing STROBE (latch) signal from the buffer board for timing, and reads the state of one of the buffer board's output powers to synchronize where in the sequence of 16 power sources. It captures the latch signal and re-emits it to the daughterboard.

It ignores the serial clock and serial data from the buffer board.

Unfortunately this has very little processor time to spare since it's spending all its time clocking out the serial data. We're probably limited to very basic patterns on here.

== Usage ==

=== Getting the source ===

The source is in a mercurial repository on [[pony]]. Point your mercurial client at http://pony.local/d3/nils/bigledscreen to pull down a copy of it.

=== Programming the xbee ===

To control the sign wirelessly, you will want to program an xbee chip to interface with it. I recommend the "xbee explorer" from sparkfun. To program your new xbee, you will need to make sure your xbee has a recent enough firmware (10A5 is recommended). Unfortunately firmware upgrade must be done using Digi/MaxStream's "X-CTU" application which runs under windows. This can be performed with wine and linux. See [http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/XBee_configuration paparazzi's]xbee config page and [http://www.libelium.com/squidbee/upload/3/31/Data-sheet-max-stream.pdf digi's xbee AT command set] for information about using x-ctu or minicom with your xbee.

The Xbee on the computer side needs to have a small hardware modification to work: pins AD0 and AD1 need to be shorted, and pins AD2 and AD3 need to be shorted. This is because the xbee connected to your computer toggles pins 0 and 2 to control the state of pins 1 and 3, and pins 1 and 3 are mirrored by the xbee connected to the sign. If you use a stock xbee, you'll still be able to talk to the sign with it but you won't be able to flash new firmware.

Once you have your xbee connected to your computer, you can use xbee-pgm.pl to set it up to talk to the sign such as the following:

./xbee-pgm.pl /dev/cu.usbserial.A12345 program-computer-side

where /dev/cu.usbserial.A12345 is the serial port for your xbee.

If your xbee was configured to use the original 9600 baud rate, you will need to run this twice to actually write the new baud rate to flash. Your xbee will now talk at 19200 baud, and is now configured to talk to the sign.

=== Uploading new sign code ===

To compile new sign code, simply "make" in the bigledscreen directory. This will produce a "ledlife.hex" file that you can upload to the sign. If you are unfamiliar with AVR programming and avrdude, you should go through one of the tutorials on the internet first. This is not a good first project.

To upload new sign code, you must upload to each half of the sign separately. First, activate the reset pins on both halves of the sign:

./xbee-pgm.pl /dev/cu.usbserial.A12345 all-high

Now, release the reset pin on half of the sign. This allows the left half of the sign to boot up:

./xbee-pgm.pl /dev/cu.usbserial.A12345 3-high

The atmega168 will now start the Lady Ada's bootloader, which acts just like a stk500.

Immediately, start your "avrdude" to upload code. If you do not do this fast enough, you will need to toggle the reset pin again.

avrdude -F -b 19200 -c stk500v1 -p m168 -P /dev/cu.usbserial-A12345 -e -U flash:w:ledlife.hex

Sometimes this will fail. If it fails repeatedly, reposition your xbee closer to the sign, or reorient it, and try again.

Once this half is done, you can upload the right half:

./xbee-pgm.pl /dev/cu.usbserial.A12345 1-high
avrdude -F -b 19200 -c stk500v1 -p m168 -P /dev/cu.usbserial-A12345 -e -U flash:w:ledlife.hex

Then you can release the reset pin on the left half so it can boot up, and both halves can run:

./xbee-pgm.pl /dev/cu.usbserial.A12345 all-low

=== Controlling a running sign ===

You can use the "sendcmd.pl" script to send bytes to the sign. The usage is similar to xbee-pgm.pl:

./sendcmd.pl <serial port> <byte code>

<byte code> is the decimal value of the byte to send. You should not send bytes too fast, and sometimes bytes get missed. Hopefully this will change in the future.

You can address one or both of the halves by sending one of the following values:

0 - address left
1 - address right
2 - address both

If you want to send a data value from 0 to 3 (inclusive) and don't want to address a screen, you can first send a "3", which indicates that the next byte should be treated as a data byte instead of an address byte.

Immediately after you address a screen, you send a command:

64 - Turn on life, and randomly occasionally reset
65 - Turn on life without the periodic random reset
66 - Run test pattern
67 - Act as single-buffered framebuffer
68 - Act as double-buffered framebuffer

70 - clear framebuffer, home cursor
71 - set x coordinate of cursor
72 - set y coordinate of cursor
73 - for double-buffered framebuffer, swap front and back buffers
74 - for double-buffered framebuffer, do a single round of life and swap front and back buffers

When setting an x or y coordinate of the cursor, follow the command with the cursor position added to 128. The cursor is 8 pixels wide horozontally and 1 pixel tall. Valid values for setting the X cursor coordinate are 128 through 135. Valid values for setting the Y cursor coordinate are 128 through 175.

After you have issued attention and a command, any further bytes you send will be placed on the screen at the cursor, and then the cursor will go to the next 8 pixels. It scans in the standard left-to-right, top-to-bottom order.

An example script, "gliders.sh", will place a bunch of gliders on the display. (You may need to change the "port" variable to match your local serial port). Note that it has several times where it stops and asks you if everything is ok; use ctrl-c to abort if any bytes got missed in transit, and then start over.

For further information, UTSL.

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

Adafruit

2014-05-06T00:10:04Z

JohnyRadio:

[http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2010/06/01/big-news-all-hacker-spaces-in-the-world-get-adafruit-reseller-pricing-starting-today/ Adafruit Industries is offering reseller prices to hackerspaces.]

Al Sweigart has signed up to coordinate orders. They request only making bulk orders (>$250). I'll have them shipped to my office (it's safe and I can easily move them to Noisebridge afterwards).

Reseller prices offer up to a 40% discount. This would count as "unrelated income" for Noisebridge as a 501c3. Al is currently looking into how this would affect our tax filings.

To place an order, send an email to adafruit@noisebridge.net with the item and quantity. I will place the order with Adafruit after the total amount has reached over $250 and Al/Noisebridge has received the money.

This is open to members in good standing.
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File:Ct3-06.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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File:048.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

2011 Director Elections

2014-05-06T00:09:52Z

JohnyRadio:

We should probably fill this page in more.

==Results==

2011 Board Members are: Miloh, Rachel Lyra, Danny, jof, Al

<tt>Candidates: Miloh Rachel Andy JonL JonM Danny Leif Jim Al

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File:044.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:045.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
File:046.jpg|''[[commons:Psetta maxima|Psetta maxima]]'' (Turbot)
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8 7

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1 4 7 8 5 2 6 9 3</tt>

==Ballot Instructions==

(todo: instructions will be posted soon)

==Nominations==

https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Board_Nominations_2011

Al Sweigart, Miloh, Rachel Hospodar, Bill Paul, Jim Stockford, Jonathon Lassoff, Andy Isaacson, Leif, Jonathan Moore, Danny O'Brien,

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

User talk:JohnnyRadio

2014-05-06T00:09:32Z

JohnyRadio: Created page with "<gallery mode="packed-hover"> File:Ct3-06.jpg|''Psetta maxima'' (Turbot) File:044.jpg|''Psetta maxima'' (Turbot) File:045.j..."