Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

Darkroom/E6 development

2011-08-08T06:11:50Z

Heroic: /* E6 examples and recommendations */

Hey folks, we have ordered the gear to do E6 color development by hand using the [[Darkroom/Resources#Developing_Stuff | chems Eric donated]]. This is a full 6 bath E6 kit (as opposed to [[Darkroom/Rapid_E-6_Film_Development | E6 Rapid]]). It's going to be awesome! And difficult! Join the party! Once we have this gear, we will also be able to process color negative film using C41 kits, but the current project underway is E6.

==E6 checklist==
*Large tub, translucent plastic preferred (think we have this)
*E6 chems (thanks Eric!)
*temp controller (see shopping list below)
*chem bottles, 1 qt x6 (see shopping list below)
*plastic reels, 35mm & 120 (ours are convertible)
*film tanks (check!)
*timer (check!)
*[[Darkroom]] (check!)

Most of this stuff is on the [[Darkroom/Resources#Developing_Stuff | Darkroom resources page]].

==Kelly's Shopping list==
*[http://www.amazon.com/Won-Brothers-Digital-Temperature-Controller/dp/B002RXDTSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1308936719&sr=8-1 Temperature controller] - $72.77
*[http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Air-Evacu-Collapsable-Photographic-Container/dp/B00009R828 Accordion chem bottles, 1qt] - $4.99 (x6)

'''Total: $102.71'''

===Donations===

*[[User:Hurtstotouchfire | Kelly]] - $20
**Subtotal: $80.71
*Rubin - $80.71
**Subtotal: $0

'''We have enough monies! Kelly is ordering stuff.'''

==Film==
===Development queue===
When we get this all together and actually mix up the chems, we will want to try to use them up within a week or so. Given this, it's good if we have a little backlog of slide film ready to develop before we mix up the chems. If you have slide film you've shot (or can commit to shoot soon, add a date) you can add yourself to the development queue here. (''I understand the batch should be good for ~15-20 rolls? Jas can probably comment.'' --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 17:58, 24 June 2011 (UTC)) Sounds about right for a 1 litre batch -- Jas

*[[User:Hurtstotouchfire | Kelly]] - 3 rolls
**2 rolls [http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-E100VS-Professional-Exposures-Transparency/dp/B000NK3T78/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308938006&sr=1-1 Kodak e100VS], shot.
**1 roll [http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Fujichrome-Velvia-Color-Slide/dp/B000A1ERX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308937979&sr=8-1 Fuji Velvia 100], shot last weekend in Indiana
*[[User:Heroic|Heroic]] 06:08, 8 August 2011 (UTC) - about eight rolls
**Various Velvia 50, Velvia 100, Digibase CR200, shot on the Big Island of Hawaii

===Donating film===

If you'd like to donate some slide film or $$ towards slide film that may be helpful for people who don't already have a backlog of E6 film to develop.

===E6 examples and recommendations===
If you're just looking for advice on what film to get, you can check out what other people have been shooting, above. Unfortunately slide film is a bit more expensive than color negative film, running about $8/roll for 36 exposures on 35mm. It's lovely though. I know that Joachim and Jas can probably provide more examples (links, guys?), but [http://www.flickr.com/photos/httf/tags/e6/ my flickr feed] has a few shots which were E6 processed slide film. --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 17:58, 24 June 2011 (UTC)

Here are some random shots on Velvia: [https://picasaweb.google.com/closeenoughforjas/MiscellaneousVelvia] [[User:Heroic|Heroic]] 06:11, 8 August 2011 (UTC)

Darkroom/E6 development

2011-08-08T06:09:15Z

Heroic: /* Development queue */

Darkroom/E6 development

2011-08-08T06:08:49Z

Heroic: /* Development queue */

Hey folks, we have ordered the gear to do E6 color development by hand using the [[Darkroom/Resources#Developing_Stuff | chems Eric donated]]. This is a full 6 bath E6 kit (as opposed to [[Darkroom/Rapid_E-6_Film_Development | E6 Rapid]]). It's going to be awesome! And difficult! Join the party! Once we have this gear, we will also be able to process color negative film using C41 kits, but the current project underway is E6.

==E6 checklist==
*Large tub, translucent plastic preferred (think we have this)
*E6 chems (thanks Eric!)
*temp controller (see shopping list below)
*chem bottles, 1 qt x6 (see shopping list below)
*plastic reels, 35mm & 120 (ours are convertible)
*film tanks (check!)
*timer (check!)
*[[Darkroom]] (check!)

Most of this stuff is on the [[Darkroom/Resources#Developing_Stuff | Darkroom resources page]].

==Kelly's Shopping list==
*[http://www.amazon.com/Won-Brothers-Digital-Temperature-Controller/dp/B002RXDTSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1308936719&sr=8-1 Temperature controller] - $72.77
*[http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Air-Evacu-Collapsable-Photographic-Container/dp/B00009R828 Accordion chem bottles, 1qt] - $4.99 (x6)

'''Total: $102.71'''

===Donations===

*[[User:Hurtstotouchfire | Kelly]] - $20
**Subtotal: $80.71
*Rubin - $80.71
**Subtotal: $0

'''We have enough monies! Kelly is ordering stuff.'''

==Film==
===Development queue===
When we get this all together and actually mix up the chems, we will want to try to use them up within a week or so. Given this, it's good if we have a little backlog of slide film ready to develop before we mix up the chems. If you have slide film you've shot (or can commit to shoot soon, add a date) you can add yourself to the development queue here. (''I understand the batch should be good for ~15-20 rolls? Jas can probably comment.'' --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 17:58, 24 June 2011 (UTC)) Sounds about right for a 1 litre batch -- Jas

*[[User:Hurtstotouchfire | Kelly]] - 3 rolls
**2 rolls [http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-E100VS-Professional-Exposures-Transparency/dp/B000NK3T78/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308938006&sr=1-1 Kodak e100VS], shot.
**1 roll [http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Fujichrome-Velvia-Color-Slide/dp/B000A1ERX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308937979&sr=8-1 Fuji Velvia 100], shot last weekend in Indiana
*[[User:Heroic|Heroic]] 06:08, 8 August 2011 (UTC) - about eight rolls
**Various Velvia 50, Velvia 100, Digibase CR200

===Donating film===

If you'd like to donate some slide film or $$ towards slide film that may be helpful for people who don't already have a backlog of E6 film to develop.

===E6 examples and recommendations===
If you're just looking for advice on what film to get, you can check out what other people have been shooting, above. Unfortunately slide film is a bit more expensive than color negative film, running about $8/roll for 36 exposures on 35mm. It's lovely though. I know that Joachim and Jas can probably provide more examples (links, guys?), but [http://www.flickr.com/photos/httf/tags/e6/ my flickr feed] has a few shots which were E6 processed slide film. --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 17:58, 24 June 2011 (UTC)

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T09:03:41Z

Heroic: /* Important Safety Tips */

C-41RA is a rapid, three-bath process for developing ordinary C-41 colour negative film. It comes as a kit; popular brands are Tetenal and Arista, and they're often called press kits because newspaper photographers used to use them. C-41RA chemistry is a lot like B&W in use, except that it doesn't last as long, hates oxygen, and needs accurate temperature control to work well. The chemistry only lasts about three weeks once mixed, and I get about twenty 135-36 filmsworth out of a one litre Tetenal press kit.

All C-41 film needs the same development, so there's no complicated film-specific developer time matrix of doom.

==Important Safety Tips==

C-41RA blix is toxic and nasty; don't get it on your hands, clothes, or in your eyes or mouth. The developer's pretty unpleasant too, but the blix is a special kind of assholish chemical. All three of the major components are probably carcinogenic, so yeah, you might want to wear gloves when handling them. You'd be a special kind of jerk to leave it, or things that have touched it, where people might be handling food. Keep chemistry away from food, animals and children.

When your chemistry's spent, dispose of it carefully; the developer is okay to pour down the drain with plenty of water, but the blix has silver compounds in it so needs to be de-silvered before disposal. The stabilizer has hydrazine and (when used) formaldehyde in it. Dispose carefully. Both the blix and the stabilizer will gradually off-gas in the bottle, so don't leave them on the shelf too long unless you want to see the bottle blow its top.

If you get any of these chemicals in your eyes, get someone to force your eye open and flush under running water for several minutes, and then get them to take you directly to the eye hospital. I am not even kidding.

Everything you use in this process needs to be totally free of grease, soap, and other impurities. Colour film is a complicated chemical system that revolves around selectively monkeying with dye molecules, and a couple dabs of soap on your processing drum will totally ruin the developer.

==Before You Start==

# Make up your chemistry according to the instructions. You'll need three bottles to put it in.
# Mark your bottles: Developer, Blix and Stabilizer. Don't mix them up.
# Make up a tempering bath and heat it to 100.3 degrees Fahrenheit.
# Put your chemistry bottles in the tempering bath and wait for them to get to temperature.
# Make sure your tank, spiral, and bottles are compatible with colour chemistry, because some plastics aren't. The Paterson tanks are. Glass bottles aren't. No, really.

==Basic Instructions==

# In complete darkness, roll your film into a tank.
# Turn on safelight or house lights, as your paranoia permits.
# Fill your tank with water at the process temperature, and let it sit for a minute or two. Agitate it a bit. This, and all following steps save the wash stage, should be done with the tank sitting in the tempering bath.
# Empty the water out; marvel at the funny colour it went.
# Add developer to tank. Knock it on the table, then stand it in the tempering bath. Agitate for the first thirty seconds, then do four inversions every thirty seconds. You'll soup your film for a total of three minutes and thirty seconds.
# Pour developer back into your stock bottle.
# Add blix to tank. Agitate it the same way as the developer, but this time for six and a half minutes.
# As your film is blixing, it will produce a little sulfur dioxide. You will have to burp your tank a couple times.
# Pour the blix back into the bottle. It stinks of ammonia and sulfur dioxide: don't breathe this.
# Immediately rinse with running water at process temperature, for three minutes. (at this point you can take your time and expose the film to light if you need to. or want to.)
# Empty out the wash water, and add stabilizer. Agitate continuously for thirty seconds to a minute.
# Return stabilizer to the bottle.
# You might want to do a very, very quick dunk in photo-flo, to make the film dry more evenly, but it's against the instructions; I always do it anyway.
# Drying and praying against the anti-dust gods. You may also want to use the [[Darkroom/Resources/Prinz Film Dryer | film dryer]].
# Before you put your chemistry away, squirt some Dust-Off into each bottle to displace the oxygen that will destroy the chemistry while you sleep.

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T09:00:05Z

Heroic:

C-41RA is a rapid, three-bath process for developing ordinary C-41 colour negative film. It comes as a kit; popular brands are Tetenal and Arista, and they're often called press kits because newspaper photographers used to use them. C-41RA chemistry is a lot like B&W in use, except that it doesn't last as long, hates oxygen, and needs accurate temperature control to work well. The chemistry only lasts about three weeks once mixed, and I get about twenty 135-36 filmsworth out of a one litre Tetenal press kit.

All C-41 film needs the same development, so there's no complicated film-specific developer time matrix of doom.

==Important Safety Tips==

C-41RA blix is toxic and nasty; don't get it on your hands, clothes, or in your eyes or mouth. The developer's pretty unpleasant too, but the blix is a special kind of assholish chemical. All three of the major components are probably carcinogenic, so yeah, you might want to wear gloves when handling them. You'd be a special kind of jerk to leave it, or things that have touched it, where people might be handling food. Keep chemistry away from food, animals and children.

When your chemistry's spent, dispose of it carefully; the developer is okay to pour down the drain with plenty of water, but the blix has silver compounds in it so needs to be de-silvered before disposal. The stabilizer has hydrazine and (when used) formaldehyde in it. Dispose carefully. Both the blix and the stabilizer will gradually off-gas in the bottle, so don't leave them on the shelf too long unless you want to see the bottle blow its top.

If you get any of these chemicals in your eyes, get someone to force your eye open and flush under running water for several minutes, and then get them to take you directly to the eye hospital. I am not even kidding.

==Before You Start==

# Make up your chemistry according to the instructions. You'll need three bottles to put it in.
# Mark your bottles: Developer, Blix and Stabilizer. Don't mix them up.
# Make up a tempering bath and heat it to 100.3 degrees Fahrenheit.
# Put your chemistry bottles in the tempering bath and wait for them to get to temperature.
# Make sure your tank, spiral, and bottles are compatible with colour chemistry, because some plastics aren't. The Paterson tanks are. Glass bottles aren't. No, really.

==Basic Instructions==

# In complete darkness, roll your film into a tank.
# Turn on safelight or house lights, as your paranoia permits.
# Fill your tank with water at the process temperature, and let it sit for a minute or two. Agitate it a bit. This, and all following steps save the wash stage, should be done with the tank sitting in the tempering bath.
# Empty the water out; marvel at the funny colour it went.
# Add developer to tank. Knock it on the table, then stand it in the tempering bath. Agitate for the first thirty seconds, then do four inversions every thirty seconds. You'll soup your film for a total of three minutes and thirty seconds.
# Pour developer back into your stock bottle.
# Add blix to tank. Agitate it the same way as the developer, but this time for six and a half minutes.
# As your film is blixing, it will produce a little sulfur dioxide. You will have to burp your tank a couple times.
# Pour the blix back into the bottle. It stinks of ammonia and sulfur dioxide: don't breathe this.
# Immediately rinse with running water at process temperature, for three minutes. (at this point you can take your time and expose the film to light if you need to. or want to.)
# Empty out the wash water, and add stabilizer. Agitate continuously for thirty seconds to a minute.
# Return stabilizer to the bottle.
# You might want to do a very, very quick dunk in photo-flo, to make the film dry more evenly, but it's against the instructions; I always do it anyway.
# Drying and praying against the anti-dust gods. You may also want to use the [[Darkroom/Resources/Prinz Film Dryer | film dryer]].
# Before you put your chemistry away, squirt some Dust-Off into each bottle to displace the oxygen that will destroy the chemistry while you sleep.

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T08:55:22Z

Heroic:

C-41RA is a rapid, three-bath process for developing ordinary C-41 colour negative film. It comes as a kit; popular brands are Tetenal and Arista, and they're often called press kits because newspaper photographers used to use them. C-41RA chemistry is a lot like B&W in use, except that it doesn't last as long, hates oxygen, and needs accurate temperature control to work well. The chemistry only lasts about three weeks once mixed, and I get about twenty 135-36 filmsworth out of a one litre Tetenal press kit.

C-41RA blix is toxic and nasty; don't get it on your hands, clothes, or in your eyes or mouth. The developer's pretty unpleasant too, but the blix is a special kind of assholish chemical. All three of the major components are probably carcinogenic, so yeah, you might want to wear gloves when handling them. You'd be a special kind of jerk to leave it, or things that have touched it, where people might be handling food. Keep chemistry away from food, animals and children.

All C-41 film needs the same development, so there's no complicated film-specific developer time matrix of doom.

==Before You Start==

# Make up your chemistry according to the instructions. You'll need three bottles to put it in.
# Mark your bottles: Developer, Blix and Stabilizer. Don't mix them up.
# Make up a tempering bath and heat it to 100.3 degrees Fahrenheit.
# Put your chemistry bottles in the tempering bath and wait for them to get to temperature.
# Make sure your tank, spiral, and bottles are compatible with colour chemistry, because some plastics aren't. The Paterson tanks are. Glass bottles aren't. No, really.

==Basic Instructions==

# In complete darkness, roll your film into a tank.
# Turn on safelight or house lights, as your paranoia permits.
# Fill your tank with water at the process temperature, and let it sit for a minute or two. Agitate it a bit. This, and all following steps save the wash stage, should be done with the tank sitting in the tempering bath.
# Empty the water out; marvel at the funny colour it went.
# Add developer to tank. Knock it on the table, then stand it in the tempering bath. Agitate for the first thirty seconds, then do four inversions every thirty seconds. You'll soup your film for a total of three minutes and thirty seconds.
# Pour developer back into your stock bottle.
# Add blix to tank. Agitate it the same way as the developer, but this time for six and a half minutes.
# As your film is blixing, it will produce a little sulfur dioxide. You will have to burp your tank a couple times.
# Pour the blix back into the bottle. It stinks of ammonia and sulfur dioxide: don't breathe this.
# Immediately rinse with running water at process temperature, for three minutes. (at this point you can take your time and expose the film to light if you need to. or want to.)
# Empty out the wash water, and add stabilizer. Agitate continuously for thirty seconds to a minute.
# Return stabilizer to the bottle.
# You might want to do a very, very quick dunk in photo-flo, to make the film dry more evenly, but it's against the instructions; I always do it anyway.
# Drying and praying against the anti-dust gods. You may also want to use the [[Darkroom/Resources/Prinz Film Dryer | film dryer]].
# Before you put your chemistry away, squirt some Dust-Off into each bottle to displace the oxygen that will destroy the chemistry while you sleep.

Darkroom/Rapid E-6 Film Development

2011-02-16T07:50:43Z

Heroic: Created page with ' Arista Rapid E-6 is a rapid, four-bath process for developing E-6 colour slide film. It comes as a kit; there's about a dozen little bottles in the package, which you have to…'

Arista Rapid E-6 is a rapid, four-bath process for developing E-6 colour slide film. It comes as a kit; there's about a dozen little bottles in the package, which you have to mix with some amount of water. E-6 chemistry is a lot like C-41 in use, except that there's an initial "developer" stage, the colour developer has a fogging agent, and you have to wash the film between stages since the reversal development process doesn't tolerate carry-over. The chemistry only lasts about two weeks once mixed, and I get about eight 135-36 filmsworth out of a 500 ml Arista Rapid E-6 press kit.

All E-6 film needs the same development, so there's no complicated film-specific developer time matrix of doom; but, as the first developer gets depleted slash oxidized slash just plain tired, you have to bump the time a little. Arista says you should add 4% for each successive development cycle, but I'm not sure this is in any way accurate. You should use your own judgement.

==Before You Start==

# Make up your chemistry according to the instructions. You'll need three bottles to put it in.
# Mark your bottles: First Developer, Colour Developer and Blix. Don't mix them up.
# Make up a tempering bath and heat it to 105 degrees Fahrenheit.
# Put your chemistry bottles in the tempering bath and wait for them to get to temperature.

==Basic Instructions==

# In complete darkness, roll your film into a tank.
# Turn on safelight or house lights, as your paranoia permits.
# Fill your tank with water at the process temperature, and let it sit for a minute or two. Agitate it a bit. This, and all following steps save the wash stage, should be done with the tank sitting in the tempering bath. This is really super important for E-6.
# Empty the water out; marvel at the funny colour it went. (Velvia 50 water goes green, except the 120 format which goes purple!)
# Add first developer to tank. Knock it on the table, then stand it in the tempering bath. Agitate for the first thirty seconds, then do four inversions every thirty seconds. You'll soup your film for a total of six minutes and thirty seconds.
# Pour first developer back into your stock bottle.
# Wash the film by filling the tank with process-temperature water and emptying it seven times. You need to do this promptly; delay will make your slides come out thin and awful.
# Add colour developer to tank. Same as the first developer, except this time go for four and a half minutes.
# Pour the colour developer back into your bottle. Make sure you get the right bottle.
# Wash the film again, same as the first. You can, if you want, look at the film now, but you won't see anything.
# Add blix to tank. Agitate it the same way as the developer, but this time for ten minutes.
# As your film is blixing, it will produce a little sulfur dioxide. You will have to burp your tank a couple times.
# Pour the blix back into the bottle. It stinks of ammonia and sulfur dioxide: don't breathe this.
# Immediately rinse with running water at process temperature, for five minutes.
# Empty out the wash water, and wash with photo-flo or virgin blood or whatever. Probably not virgin blood.
# Drying and praying against the anti-dust gods. You may also want to use the [[Darkroom/Resources/Prinz Film Dryer | film dryer]].
# Before you put your chemistry away, squirt some Dust-Off into each bottle to displace the oxygen that will destroy the chemistry while you sleep.

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T07:35:25Z

Heroic:

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T07:32:00Z

Heroic:

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T07:27:52Z

Heroic: /* Basic Instructions */

Darkroom/C-41RA Film Development

2011-02-16T07:27:10Z

Heroic: First hack at colour dev instructions.