Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

3D Anatomical Models

2012-06-26T21:54:12Z

Gpvillamil:

Instructibles posted [http://www.instructables.com/id/Edible-Chocolate-Brain-from-MRI-Scan/ a great article] on 3d printing brains and head models from MRI scans. We are playing with some ideas for similar projects we could do at noisebridge. Discussion of this project is on the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/neuro neuro mailing list] if you want to get involved.

==Datasets==
In order to do this, we'll need some DICOMs ([http://nifti.nimh.nih.gov/ nifti] is also ok). T1 MRIs of heads are great, but we could use other anatomical scans as well.

*T1 MRI of my head, DICOM and nifti formats. Will get files sharable. -- [[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 00:16, 30 May 2012 (UTC)
*T1 MRI of Chris's head, DICOM format. Will ask him if we can share this publicly. --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 00:16, 30 May 2012 (UTC)
*Liz said she has T1 MR head DICOMs as well and might be up for sharing them. --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 00:16, 30 May 2012 (UTC)

==Image segmentation==
The instructibles tutorial describes in [http://www.instructables.com/id/Edible-Chocolate-Brain-from-MRI-Scan/step2/DICOM-Data-Model-Export/ step two] how to "select only the brain" with tissue thresholding using InVesalius. The slightly more sophisticated approach would be to use 3d image segmentation algorithms like [http://www.fmrib.ox.ac.uk/fsl/bet2/index.html FSL's BET] or [http://groups.csail.mit.edu/vision/medical-vision/SkullStripping/SkullStripping.html the watershed algorithm] (the videos are awesome), which is nicely implemented in [http://neuro.debian.net/pkgs/bioimagesuite.html#pkg-bioimagesuite BioImage Suite] and less nicely implemented in [http://neuro.debian.net/pkgs/freesurfer.html#pkg-freesurfer Freesurfer].

The approach described in the Instructibles article is a crude implementation of the watershed algorithm, which is a very elegant image segmentation algorithm. I am personally still fond of FSL's BET algorithm, which is substantially less elegant, but has [https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uzKNkaBtZYXOYpO-10w8gdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink awesome errors].

==3D Printing==
What formats can we easily feed to a makerbot, laser-cutter, or CNC mill? -- [[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 00:02, 30 May 2012 (UTC)

File Formats:
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavefront_.obj_file .obj] - "The OBJ file format is a simple data-format that represents 3D geometry alone — namely, the position of each vertex, the UV position of each texture coordinate vertex, normals, and the faces that make each polygon defined as a list of vertices, and texture vertices. Vertices are stored in a counter-clockwise order by default, making explicit declaration of normals unnecessary."
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) .stl] - "STL files describe only the surface geometry of a three dimensional object without any representation of color, texture or other common CAD model attributes... An STL file describes a raw unstructured triangulated surface by the unit normal and vertices (ordered by the right-hand rule) of the triangles using a three-dimensional Cartesian coordinate system."
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PLY_(file_format) .pyl] - "The format was principally designed to store three dimensional data from 3D scanners. It supports a relatively simple description of a single object as a list of nominally flat polygons. A variety of properties can be stored including: color and transparency, surface normals, texture coordinates and data confidence values. The format permits one to have different properties for the front and back of a polygon."

==Software==
*[http://neuro.debian.net/pkgs/invesalius.html InVesalius]
**exports to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format) STL]
**packaged by the nice guys at Debian who are trying to get more medical software packaged for linux. I met them at a conference once, they are well-meaning zealots. --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 00:02, 30 May 2012 (UTC)
*[http://www.fmrib.ox.ac.uk/fsl/ FSL]
**Also [http://neuro.debian.net/pkgs/fsl.html packaged by neuro-debian].
*[http://www.osirix-viewer.com/ Osirix]
** Semi-opensource and free (the 64-bit functions are proprietary and for pay - not needed)
** Exports to STL (very well)

[[Category:Neuro]]

Makerbot

2011-11-04T20:44:53Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) */

= The Makerbots are still working (2011-11-04) =

Most of the Makerbots are working.

There are three filament spools in operation now, with red, black and white ABS. Just pull out a bit of filament, guide it into the extruder of your chosen Makerbot (making sure to avoid any sharp turns), feed it through (with the nozzle heated), and print!

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, run it, press Generate G-Code, select the profile you will use, press Locate, and find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. It should work fine with the default profiles for a Cupcake with a Heated Build Platform (but do make the change described above). It works very well.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced. Scotch is not working now, it is waiting for a new extruder nozzle.

Another bot in the space is Andrew Rutter's Super Cupcake. This one is heavily modified and should under no circumstances be used without consulting Andrew.

Tip 'O The Day:

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Find the file(s) called end.gcode, and if they do not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit them to look like this (you can just add them to the end - it doesn't hurt if they are repeated):

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0 (extruder to temperature 0)
M109 S0 (heated build platform to temperature 0)
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Project Log =
Below are some early usage examples. For a more complete catalogue with more depth, visit [[Noisebridge 3D Printing Member Projects]].
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----
[[File:Bunny_and_vases.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|Tron Bunny watches over two sake carafes. The one on the left was printed before major mods to the XY axis, the one on right after. Note that the "ringing" effect is gone. [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

== 2011-04-07 ==

Over the last few days:
Centrated the Z axis quartet on Scotch. Found a bad bearing and replaced it. Shimmed the bearings into place as the wood was starting to wear. The Z axis is much improved by performing this maintenance. If the rods are quite parallel and straight, the Z stage can also be shimmed into place to reduce side to side slop.

The modified Z axis mount needed more clearance from the Z stage, so I replaced the mounting plates with a single piece of 1/8" laser cut acrylic.

I also upgraded the pinchwheel on Scotch with Gian-Pablo's old pinchwheel mounting. It's the same part, but with low-friction delrin plates and a plunger along the filament path. The old one can be rehabilitated by cutting out the same 1/8" delrin parts.

The power went out on Nutjob today. Assessing the problem tomorrow.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 03:17, 8 April 2011 (UTC)

MissingStuff

2011-09-18T04:03:56Z

Gpvillamil:

Hello!

I am trying to gauge the level of recent incidents where people's stuff has going missing. If you have had something that you own disappear from the space, please copy the template at the bottom, and enter details about your experience.

{|
!Date last seen
!Date when noticed gone
!Thing that disappeared
!Where from?
!Who spotted it gone?
|-
|?
|?
|Christmas lights operating box
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|external hard drive
|library area
|alex
|-
|?
|?
|Soekris
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|handheld transceiver
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|FTDI cable
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|bag of LEDs
|-
|?
|?
|netbook
|?
|john e
|-
|?
|2011-09-04
|Carl Zeiss Microscope
|Electronics lab
|Jake S
|-
|July or August of 2011
|September 2011
|An IBM model M keyboard internally modified into a MIDI controller, and its charger
|jakes member shelf, near fire escape doors
|jake s
|-
|Feb 2011
|April 2011
|M16 replica airgun
|Member shelf
|Gian Pablo
|-
|?
|May 2011
|IBM T40 laptop
|member shelf
|Jon Foote
|-
|?
|?
|Cash from Applied Platonics
|member shelf
|josh
|-
|?
|6/24/11
|Nikon compact camera
|recording timelapse of Makerbot print
|opticbit
|}

MissingStuff

2011-09-18T04:02:23Z

Gpvillamil:

Hello!

I am trying to gauge the level of recent incidents where people's stuff has going missing. If you have had something that you own disappear from the space, please copy the template at the bottom, and enter details about your experience.

{|
!Date last seen
!Date when noticed gone
!Thing that disappeared
!Where from?
!Who spotted it gone?
|-
|?
|?
|Christmas lights operating box
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|external hard drive
|library area
|alex
|-
|?
|?
|Soekris
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|handheld transceiver
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|FTDI cable
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|bag of LEDs
|-
|?
|?
|netbook
|?
|john e
|-
|?
|2011-09-04
|Carl Zeiss Microscope
|Electronics lab
|Jake S
|-
|July or August of 2011
|September 2011
|An IBM model M keyboard internally modified into a MIDI controller, and its charger
|jakes member shelf, near fire escape doors
|jake s
|-
|Feb 2011
|April 2011
|M16 replica airgun
|Member shelf
|Gian Pablo
|-
|?
|May 2011
|IBM T40 laptop
|member shelf
|Jon Foote
|-
|?
|?
|Cash from Applied Platonics
|member shelf
|josh
|-
|?
|May 2011
|Nikon compact camera
|recording timelapse of Makerbot print
|?
|}

MissingStuff

2011-09-18T04:01:20Z

Gpvillamil:

Hello!

I am trying to gauge the level of recent incidents where people's stuff has going missing. If you have had something that you own disappear from the space, please copy the template at the bottom, and enter details about your experience.

{|
!Date last seen
!Date when noticed gone
!Thing that disappeared
!Where from?
!Who spotted it gone?
|-
|?
|?
|Christmas lights operating box
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|external hard drive
|library area
|alex
|-
|?
|?
|Soekris
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|handheld transceiver
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|FTDI cable
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|bag of LEDs
|-
|?
|?
|netbook
|?
|john e
|-
|?
|2011-09-04
|Carl Zeiss Microscope
|Electronics lab
|Jake S
|-
|July or August of 2011
|September 2011
|An IBM model M keyboard internally modified into a MIDI controller, and its charger
|jakes member shelf, near fire escape doors
|jake s
|-
|Feb 2011
|April 2011
|M16 replica airgun
|Member shelf
|Gian Pablo
|-
|?
|?
|IBM T40 laptop
|member shelf
|Jon Foote
|-
|?
|?
|Cash from Applied Platonics
|member shelf
|josh
|-
|?
|?
|Nikon compact camera
|recording timelapse of Makerbot print
|?
|}

MissingStuff

2011-09-18T04:00:29Z

Gpvillamil:

Hello!

I am trying to gauge the level of recent incidents where people's stuff has going missing. If you have had something that you own disappear from the space, please copy the template at the bottom, and enter details about your experience.

{|
!Date last seen
!Date when noticed gone
!Thing that disappeared
!Where from?
!Who spotted it gone?
|-
|?
|?
|Christmas lights operating box
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|external hard drive
|library area
|alex
|-
|?
|?
|Soekris
|?
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|handheld transceiver
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|FTDI cable
|jof
|-
|?
|?
|bag of LEDs
|-
|?
|?
|netbook
|?
|john e
|-
|?
|2011-09-04
|Carl Zeiss Microscope
|Electronics lab
|Jake S
|-
|July or August of 2011
|September 2011
|An IBM model M keyboard internally modified into a MIDI controller, and its charger
|jakes member shelf, near fire escape doors
|jake s
|-
|?
|?
|M16 replica airgun
|Member shelf
|Gian Pablo
|-
|?
|?
|IBM T40 laptop
|member shelf
|Jon Foote
|-
|?
|?
|Cash from Applied Platonics
|member shelf
|josh
|-
|?
|?
|Nikon compact camera
|recording timelapse of Makerbot print
|?
|}

Makerbot

2011-04-08T17:30:40Z

Gpvillamil: /* install some software first */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

There are three filament spools in operation now, with red, black and white ABS. Just pull out a bit of filament, guide it into the extruder of your chosen Makerbot (making sure to avoid any sharp turns), feed it through (with the nozzle heated), and print!

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Find the file(s) called end.gcode, and if they do not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit them to look like this (you can just add them to the end - it doesn't hurt if they are repeated):

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0 (extruder to temperature 0)
M109 S0 (heated build platform to temperature 0)
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----
[[File:Bunny_and_vases.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|Tron Bunny watches over two sake carafes. The one on the left was printed before major mods to the XY axis, the one on right after. Note that the "ringing" effect is gone. [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

== 2011-04-07 ==

Over the last few days:
Centrated the Z axis quartet on Scotch. Found a bad bearing and replaced it. Shimmed the bearings into place as the wood was starting to wear. The Z axis is much improved by performing this maintenance. If the rods are quite parallel and straight, the Z stage can also be shimmed into place to reduce side to side slop.

The modified Z axis mount needed more clearance from the Z stage, so I replaced the mounting plates with a single piece of 1/8" laser cut acrylic.

I also upgraded the pinchwheel on Scotch with Gian-Pablo's old pinchwheel mounting. It's the same part, but with low-friction delrin plates and a plunger along the filament path. The old one can be rehabilitated by cutting out the same 1/8" delrin parts.

The power went out on Nutjob today. Assessing the problem tomorrow.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 03:17, 8 April 2011 (UTC)

Makerbot

2011-04-07T01:54:07Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

There are three filament spools in operation now, with red, black and white ABS. Just pull out a bit of filament, guide it into the extruder of your chosen Makerbot (making sure to avoid any sharp turns), feed it through (with the nozzle heated), and print!

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----
[[File:Bunny_and_vases.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|Tron Bunny watches over two sake carafes. The one on the left was printed before major mods to the XY axis, the one on right after. Note that the "ringing" effect is gone. [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

Makerbot

2011-04-07T01:52:18Z

Gpvillamil: /* Usage log */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----
[[File:Bunny_and_vases.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|Tron Bunny watches over two sake carafes. The one on the left was printed before major mods to the XY axis, the one on right after. Note that the "ringing" effect is gone. [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

File:Bunny and vases.jpg

2011-04-07T01:50:30Z

Gpvillamil: Tron Bunny watches two sake carafes.

Tron Bunny watches two sake carafes.

Makerbot

2011-04-07T01:49:04Z

Gpvillamil: /* Usage log */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
----

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

Makerbot

2011-04-07T01:47:47Z

Gpvillamil: /* Usage log */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]
----
[[File:Makerbot_mushroom_1.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|A two color mushroom printed on one of the Makerbots. Shows what is possible! [[User:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]] ]]
[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

File:Makerbot mushroom 1.jpg

2011-04-07T01:45:26Z

Gpvillamil: A two color mushroom printed on a Makerbot

A two color mushroom printed on a Makerbot

Makerbot

2011-04-02T02:58:42Z

Gpvillamil:

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-04-01 ==

All the Makerbots are working.

I've made a bunch of upgrades to White Rabbit and it is working great, there are a few fun sample prints scattered around. Ping me if you want to use it, it is a bit non-standard.

I spent a bit of quality time with Nutjob, cleaned out the driver gear, levelled the Z stage, replaced the drive motor and tidied up the cables. It is pretty standard, go ahead and use it.

There are now two filament spindles up and running, with red and white ABS. Black ABS is on the way.

Miloh printed a replacement toilet hinge, and it is now installed and working.

[[user:Gpvillamil|Gian Pablo]]

Makerbot

2011-04-02T02:49:56Z

Gpvillamil: /* tweaking skeinforge */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

You may want to create a profile with an alternative set of settings. In the Generate GCode dialog, select the default profile for your machine (mostly likely Cupcake with Heated Build Platform), duplicate it and call it "SuperSolid" or something like that, and make the following changes:

*Fill/Extra Shells -> 0 (there are a number of extra shells parameters - make all of them zero)
*Fill/Infill Density -> 1.0 (this will make solid objects)

Use this profile for parts that need to be extra strong or precise, ie. working machine parts or gears. Be warned that this will be very slow and will use a lot more plastic. However, the results can be truly outstanding.

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

Makerbot

2011-04-02T02:46:05Z

Gpvillamil: /* install some software first */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

ReplicatorG 0024 has a serious bug in some of the profiles for the Cupcake CNC Makerbot, it will not generate the instructions that turn off heated build platform and stepper motors. This is a potential fire hazard, as the steppers and the build platform can get very hot. Do this:

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

Makerbot

2011-04-02T02:43:54Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) */

= The Makerbots are working (2011- 04 -01) =

All of the Makerbors are working.

Nutjob (the Noisebridge bot) has had a number of major upgrades performed on it, including heated build platform and Mk 5 extruder. It is now working well. The standard ReplicatorG software and profiles (choose Cupcake with Heated Build Platform) will work fine with it.

Go ahead and use it, the instructions here and on the Makerbot site are appropriate, with one caveat: there is a bug in the Makerbot profiles that will leave the heated build platform and steppers on, which is a fire hazard.

Before printing, install ReplicatorG, find the file called end.gcode, and if it does not contain the M109, M104 and M18 codes, edit it to look like this:

<pre>
(end of the file, cooldown routines)
M104 S0
M109 S0
G91
G1 Z10
M18 (turn off steppers.)</pre>

This will turn off everything, leaving the Makerbot in a safe state.

White Rabbit (Gian Pablo's bot) has had its XY stage replaced with a printed one, and Z axis guide rods installed. Please check in with Gian Pablo before using it, because it is now far from standard, and you should make some adjustments in operating procedures.

Scotch (Miloh's bot) has a Mk 5 extruder made with Noisebridge's own laser cutter. It is the thing made out of green acrylic. Check in with Miloh before using it, it is still being debugged and enhanced.

For smaller parts, make a Skeinforge profile where you change the Fill/Extra Shells setting to 0 (no extra shells) and the Fill/Infill Densiety to 1.0. This yields extremely strong and dimensionally accurate parts.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. http://psyco.sourceforge.net/download.html

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway through the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== 2011-03-02 ==

Printed different series of shelving brackets in red ABS. Another 2mm shift 1/4 of the way through the print only made them semi-useful. Not sure what caused the shift -- there were ~50 people milling around so I'm going to assume someone just touched the build in progress. The autospool is modified and working well on its side. The new MK5 head is working well so far (without the extrusion blowout and grip problems of the MK4 series pinch wheel and gear drive)
improvements:

* we can laser cut 1/16 cork mounting dampeners for the stepper motors
* either replace the Y axis build platform mounting part or the build platform wood back to improve stability in the platform.
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 23:14, 2 March 2011 (UTC)

Metrics

2011-02-25T18:13:51Z

Gpvillamil:

<h2>Measuring The Reach of Noisebridge</h2>

<h3>Overview</h3>

<p>Noisebridge has many people in its physical space over the course of any given month. How do you measure that? How do you translate
that into a set of goals? And how can those metrics and goals be used to assist in paying the bills?</p>

<h3>Metrics - Ideas</h3>

<p>Here's some ideas for useful measurable numbers:</p>
<ul>
<li>Different visitors to Noisebridge</li>
<li>First-time visitors to Noisebridge</li>
<li>Events held at Noisebridge</li>
<li>Benefactors that have donated larger than a certain amount</li>
<li>New equipment resources at Noisebridge</li>
<li>If all the electronic components were lined up end to end, the distance they would span</li>
<li>The average color of all the clothes worn by people at the space</li>
<li>The mean, mode and median height and waist size of members vs. non-members</li>
</ul>

Makerbot

2011-02-21T14:46:12Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) */

= The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) =

Miloh assembled the Plastruder Mk5, the relay board and the heated build platform, and printed a skull!

Jake modified the filament spindle box to work on its side, and put a sign on it reminding people not to tip it over.

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster. WHERE DO YOU GET "PsyCo"????

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

Makerbot

2011-02-19T19:18:01Z

Gpvillamil: /* tweaking skeinforge */

= The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) =

Miloh assembled the Plastruder Mk5, the relay board and the heated build platform, and printed a skull!

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless - don't use it, instead turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in RepG, use outline to generate a lead-in
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

Makerbot

2011-02-19T19:16:47Z

Gpvillamil: /* tweaking skeinforge */

= The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) =

Miloh assembled the Plastruder Mk5, the relay board and the heated build platform, and printed a skull!

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*deprecated: turn off the raft checkbox when generating GCode in ReplicatorG, and enable the outline plugin to create a lead-in. ''raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm''
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*temperature is usually set to 230, but newer extruders can print fine with temperatures as low as 205C. You might need to lower all the temperatures in order to print tall skinny objects.
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

== 2011-02-18 ==

Watch it. It prints.

The autospool can cinch down and yank your build to ruin. Jake and I modified it to pull out the side in a lazier loop. It needs to be watched.

* Needs More calibration
** feed rate
** stepper driver currents (there were some X-Y 1-2mm shift errors halfway the first builds)
* Need a get up to speed session & bot day (CrashSpaceLA is having one this weekend)
[[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 12:51, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

Hack-Make Space Comparison

2011-02-19T02:01:52Z

Gpvillamil:

<h2>Overview</h2>
<p>Noisebridge is, amongst other things, a provider of infrastructure for technical and creative projects, and a community of like-minded individuals. TechShop is also something along these lines, with stronger focus on providing professional grade tools, such as laser cutters, CNC mills and Shopbots. Chances are that members of Noisebridge and Techshop have overlapping interests and requirements.</p>

<p>In order to help members of both organizations locate resources at either place, we've started to put together this resource listing. We encourage people to get off their butts and do cool projects, and use this list to expedite the process of doing so, by finding the tools you need, at the location that is most convenient for you.</p>

<p>Please help populate this list to the best of your knowledge, that will make it more useful.</p>

<p>Apparently, Noisebridge members can get a 1/2 price membership to TechShop. Awesome!</p>

<h2>Resource locator and comparison</h2>

<h3>General</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Physical Space</td>
<td align="right">approx 5,600 sq. ft.</td>
<td align="right">approx 17,000 sq. ft.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Membership Cost (monthly)</td>
<td align="right">at least $40</td>
<td align="right">at least $75</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Availability</td>
<td align="right">open 24 hours</td>
<td align="right">9 AM to Midnight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Organization Structure</td>
<td align="right">anarchist</td>
<td align="right">for-profit</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p><i><b>Important Note</b>: Noisebridge also allows non-members to use our resources.</i></p>

<h3>Abrasives</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Disk Sander, Large, Pedestal Mounted</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Grinders, Pedestal Mounted</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sand Blasting Cabinet</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Wire Wheel, Bench Mounted</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Vibratory Polisher</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Arts and Crafts</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Vinyl Cutter, Computer-Controlled</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Glass Cutters, Stained Glass</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Soldering Irons, Stained Glass</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Automotive</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Floor Jack and Jack Stands</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Motorcycle Lift</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Transmission Jack</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Engine Hoist</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Battery Charger</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Pneumatic Tools</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Darkroom</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Darkroom with chemicals and supplies</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Electronics</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Multimeters</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Oscilloscopes</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Soldering Stations</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Power Supply, DC</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Signal Generator</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Frequency Counter</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Variable Transformer, Variac</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Fabrication</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Cold Saw</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Drill Press</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Horizontal Band Saw</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Vertical Band Saw</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Tubing Bender</td><td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Angle Iron Bender/Notcher</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Fabrics and Sewing</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sewing Machine, Industrial</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sewing Machine, Standard</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Overlock Machine, Serger</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Embroidery Machine, Computer Controlled</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Hand Tools</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Assorted Hand and Power Tools</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Instruction</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Camera, Digital SLR</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Projectors</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Kitchen</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Kitchen with utensils and counterspace</td>
<td align="center">[[Image:check.png]]</td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Layout</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Granite Surface Plate</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Height Gauges, Digital</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Machining</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lathe, Large Metal, with Digital Readout and Tooling</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Milling Machine, Large, with Digital Readout and Tooling</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Milling Machine, 4-Axis, CNC (Tormach)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Measurement</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Calipers, Digital and Dial</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Micrometer, Digital</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Plastics</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Vacuum Forming Station, 24" x 24"</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Heat Strip Bender</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Injection Molder (Morgan)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Router Table</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Prototyping</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3D Printer, ABS</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Laser Cutter, Epilog (Helix 60 Watt)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3D Scanner (NextEngine)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Sheet Metal</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Box and Pan Brake</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>English Wheel</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Planishing Hammer, Air-Powered</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rotary Turret Punch</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sheet Metal Shear, Power, 48" Wide</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Slip Roll, Power, 48" Wide</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Throatless Shear, Bench Mounted</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Corner Notcher</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Surface and Finishing</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Powder Coating Station and Oven</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Spray Painting Area, Ventilation Hood</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Welding</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Plasma Cutter, CNC, 4' x 8' (Torchmate)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Welder, TIG</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Welder, MIG</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Welder, Spot</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Plasma Cutter, Hand Held</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

<h3>Wood Working</h3>
<table border="1">
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th><font color="red">Noisebridge</font></th>
<th><font color="blue">TechShop</font></th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Wood Router, CNC (ShopBot)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Table Saw (SawStop)</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Compound Miter Saw, Sliding</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Table Router</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Band Saw</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Belt/Disc Sander, Free Standing</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lathe, 24", 3HP</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Scroll Saw</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Drill Press, Free Standing</td>
<td> </td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</table>

Makerbot

2011-02-17T20:20:05Z

Gpvillamil: /* fire the makerbot */

= The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) =

Miloh assembled the Plastruder Mk5, the relay board and the heated build platform, and printed a skull!

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
** if you let the piece cool all the way down, maybe 10-15 minutes, it will just "pop" off the build platform by itself
*** be careful, the part may still be soft and can deform
*** don't use a knife if at all possible, it will mess up the Kapton coating on the platform - just wait for it to cool
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

Makerbot

2011-02-17T20:16:27Z

Gpvillamil: /* fire the makerbot */

= The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) =

Miloh assembled the Plastruder Mk5, the relay board and the heated build platform, and printed a skull!

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* load filament
** loosen the extruder thumbscrew
** insert filament into the extruder, basically to the level of the motor axle (NOT all the way down into the nozzle - you do this so that you can more easily tell if the motor is working)
** tighten the extruder thumbscrew, just a little bit more than finger tight, enough to get a good grip between the drive gear and the filament - you can adjust this while printing, if the filament starts slipping
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 120
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion
*** move Z axis up 20mm or so
***click Motor Control: forward
*** wait for the filament to enter the extruder, and start coming out the nozzle
*** make sure the extruder motor is turning, there is a dot drawn on the axle with sharpie
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by slightly unscrewing the extruder thumbscrew and adjusting the filament
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* zero the Z axis (ie. move it down until it near touches the platform)
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

Makerbot

2011-02-16T03:44:25Z

Gpvillamil:

= The Makerbot is working (2011-02-15) =

Miloh assembled the Plastruder Mk5, the relay board and the heated build platform, and printed a skull!

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 100
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

== 2011-01-08 ==

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

== 2011-01-14 ==

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

Makerbot

2011-01-29T16:26:11Z

Gpvillamil: /* tweaking skeinforge */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-28-01) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

=Parts are here, repairs started (2011-01-14) =

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 100
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter, ship default is 0.4
*carve->width over height: should be about 1.45, if threads in flat parts show gap make this value smaller
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 35mm/s
*fill->infill solidity: 0.25 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down - will be disabled for heated build platform
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small
*wipe should be turned off
*outline should be turned on, it draws a rectangle around the first layer which lets you tweak the Z axis distance and ensure adhesion

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

Makerbot

2011-01-29T16:23:02Z

Gpvillamil: /* fire the makerbot */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-28-01) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week.

We've started work on this. I've also started printing a replacement XY stage (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213) on my Makerbot, and ordered the parts for it (bearings, nuts, screws, washers).

[gian pablo]

=Parts are here, repairs started (2011-01-14) =

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Instructions have been updated to reflect the (coming) new and improved Makerbot.

* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* (firmware should be updated)
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC with heated build platform
* also machine->serial port, choose whatever serial port is being emulated via USB
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform (you can do this by pressing Disable steppers, then moving it by hand)
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 220
*** Heated Build Platform: 100
*** Motor Control: Stop
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
** wait for the piece to cool down, 3 to 5 minutes should be enough
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

Makerbot

2011-01-15T05:43:53Z

Gpvillamil: /* Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=Parts are here, repairs started (2011-01-14) =

All the parts have arrived. Miloh unpacked them and started working on it. Things to do:

* Assemble heated build platform
* Assemble relay board
* Assemble Plastruder Mk 5
* Replace extruder controller (and motherboard if necessary)
* Clean the 'bot
* Calibrate it

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

Makerbot

2011-01-02T20:29:54Z

Gpvillamil: /* 9/24/2010 */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

Makerbot

2011-01-02T20:29:27Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

Makerbot

2011-01-02T20:28:53Z

Gpvillamil: /* Status Reports */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

== 9/24/2010 ==

The Makerbot is broken...

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

Makerbot

2011-01-02T17:18:06Z

Gpvillamil: /* using the software */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

* Start ReplicatorG.

* Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

* Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

* You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

* It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

* Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

Makerbot

2011-01-02T17:17:28Z

Gpvillamil: /* install some software first */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====

* Install Java (if you don't already have it) - http://www.java.com/en/download/index.jsp

* Install Python (if you don't already have it). http://www.python.org/download/

* Optionally, install PsyCo, it will make things run much faster.

* get yourself a copy of replicatorg: http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

Start ReplicatorG.

Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

Makerbot

2011-01-02T17:13:26Z

Gpvillamil: /* fire the makerbot */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

Start ReplicatorG.

Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====

Watch this space for changes, as the new extruder and build platform are installed.

* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

Makerbot

2011-01-02T17:12:06Z

Gpvillamil: /* using the software */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====

Start ReplicatorG.

Open an STL file. You should see a 3D image of your model.

Press the 'generate GCode' button on the right.

You will be asked to choose a profile. Currently you are looking at Cupcake CNC Mk4, but very soon you will want Cupcake CNC Mk5 with Heated Build Platform.

It will take a while to build the GCode for the model. Go talk to visitors to the space and tell them not to sleep here.

Refer to the detailed instructions on the Makerbot site for more up-to-date tips and instructions (they change often): http://wiki.makerbot.com/how-to-print

====fire the makerbot====
* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

Makerbot

2011-01-02T17:07:34Z

Gpvillamil: /* install some software first */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

ReplicatorG now includes various versions of the Skeinforge slicing utility, so no need to download and install separately.

You are done.

====using the software====
run skeinforge with:
<pre> python skeinforge.py</pre>
click on "Skeinforge" in the lower left, select an STL file, for example [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:5914 pulley.stl] and get ready to wait. the larger the object, longer the wait. you can kinda see what it's doing on the terminal. that file took 2 minutes on my netbook, and larger objects 15 minutes or more. eventually a 2d layer diagram will pop up, and then you can open the .gcode file in replicatorg.

click on the dotted kidney bean (simulate) in replicatorg to make sure everything is working. it should tell you how long the print takes, something like

====fire the makerbot====
* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

Makerbot

2011-01-02T17:03:30Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) */

=Help is on the way for the Makerbot (2011-01-02) =

I've ordered an extensive selection of parts, including new extruder, heated build platform, extruder board etc. Should be here next week. [gian pablo]

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =

d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

*and skeinforge <ref> this is an old version, but it's what i'm using. if you use a later version my settings files will probably not work. </ref> :
http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/files/6_reprap_python_beanshell_2009_12_12.zip

*optionally sudo apt-get install python-psyco

*and my skeinforge settings:
[[File:Good.skeinforge-2010-04-27.tgz.jpg]] (if you can't get raftless to work)

[[File:Raftless red.skeinforge-04-27-10.tgz.jpg]]
(rename and) untar the settings directory and move it to ~/.skeinforge

*get raftless and install in your skeinforge:
http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/12/05/raftless/

*apply this patch (it's actually a .tgz)
[[File:Raftless.patch.jpg]]

ummm.. ok we done yet?

====using the software====
run skeinforge with:
<pre> python skeinforge.py</pre>
click on "Skeinforge" in the lower left, select an STL file, for example [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:5914 pulley.stl] and get ready to wait. the larger the object, longer the wait. you can kinda see what it's doing on the terminal. that file took 2 minutes on my netbook, and larger objects 15 minutes or more. eventually a 2d layer diagram will pop up, and then you can open the .gcode file in replicatorg.

click on the dotted kidney bean (simulate) in replicatorg to make sure everything is working. it should tell you how long the print takes, something like

====fire the makerbot====
* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

SponsorADay

2010-12-21T03:21:06Z

Gpvillamil:

Sponsor a day at Noisebridge, and you get to name it! It's like a brick, but it's a day. When you sponsor a day of Noisebridge, you provide hundreds of hackers with an excuse to celebrate for a day, and you help keep Noisebridge open.

$165, anonymous is okay, just name the day below, and then give the money to someone responsible looking, who will put their name in the "accepted by" column. You can pay online [[Donate_or_Pay_Dues | via Paypal or direct bank transfer]]. If you use either of these options, be sure to write "Sponsoring (date)" in the description or email treasurer@noisebridge.net if you're uncertain your annotation went through.

Any day which has been named, but doesn't yet have an "accepted by" filled in, is still fair game. Disputes will be resolved by fisticuffs or flamewar.

{| border=1
Sponsored Days in the month of December
|-
! Day
! Day Name
! Sponsor
! Donation accepted by
|-
|2010-12-01 || FIRST POST WOOOOOO || Rachel McConnell || ...
|-
|2010-12-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-08 || [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Discordian_calendar Afflux] || aestetix || ...
|-
|2010-12-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-10 || Be Excellent Day || [[User:miah|Miah Johnson]] || Paypal y0
|-
|2010-12-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-13 || Andy Day || [[User:Adi|adi]] || sent with December dues
|-
|2010-12-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-18 || Caturday || Jason Dusek || ...
|-
|2010-12-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-22 || Kinky sex with Praveen Day || Praveen || Paypal
|-
|2010-12-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-24 || Jof Day || Jof || ...
|-
|2010-12-25 || Christmas || Shannon || Pledged with December's dues.
|-
|2010-12-26 || Al Day || Al || Al (wells fargo transfer)
|-
|2010-12-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-28 || Boring Day || Noodles || Sent via Paypal
|-
|2010-12-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-31 || Boring Day || dpf || paypal + check
|-

{| border=1
More days you can sponsor!
|-
! Day
! Day Name
! Sponsor
! Donation Notes
|-
|2011-01-01 || SHINY DAY || Rachel McConnell || WF bank transfer
|-
|2011-01-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-31 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-14 || Kiss a Cherub on the Ass Day || [[User:turbclnt|Sean C]] || Paypal!
|-
|2011-02-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-15 || beware the ides of march || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-03-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
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Makerbot

2010-12-21T03:19:06Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) */

=The Makerbot is broken (2010-09-24) =
d'oh!

i'm really not sure what happened. i was cleaning out the extruder and i think one of the green wires touched the large metal washer; there was a spark and a small poof next to the rj-45 connector on the extruder board, and now nothing turns on. sigh.

[[File:IMG_2929.JPG|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|corroborating evidence]]
I swapped in one of Gian Pablo's extruders and bought a new 606 bearing for the gearmotor. (somehow the original must have fallen out and gotten lost.) Lots of jamming up and cussing ensued. Some adjustments were made, much filament run through the machine, and I deduced that the '''NEW EXTRUDER REQURIES THE FAN ON''' whenever it is at operating temperature. I got it to print out a timing pulley on the fifth try, and reliably printing after that, using the same settings as before.

The nozzles I left seem to print reliably at much lower temperatures, try 195C and see how that goes. [gian pablo]

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

*and skeinforge <ref> this is an old version, but it's what i'm using. if you use a later version my settings files will probably not work. </ref> :
http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/files/6_reprap_python_beanshell_2009_12_12.zip

*optionally sudo apt-get install python-psyco

*and my skeinforge settings:
[[File:Good.skeinforge-2010-04-27.tgz.jpg]] (if you can't get raftless to work)

[[File:Raftless red.skeinforge-04-27-10.tgz.jpg]]
(rename and) untar the settings directory and move it to ~/.skeinforge

*get raftless and install in your skeinforge:
http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/12/05/raftless/

*apply this patch (it's actually a .tgz)
[[File:Raftless.patch.jpg]]

ummm.. ok we done yet?

====using the software====
run skeinforge with:
<pre> python skeinforge.py</pre>
click on "Skeinforge" in the lower left, select an STL file, for example [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:5914 pulley.stl] and get ready to wait. the larger the object, longer the wait. you can kinda see what it's doing on the terminal. that file took 2 minutes on my netbook, and larger objects 15 minutes or more. eventually a 2d layer diagram will pop up, and then you can open the .gcode file in replicatorg.

click on the dotted kidney bean (simulate) in replicatorg to make sure everything is working. it should tell you how long the print takes, something like

====fire the makerbot====
* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

It's not PLA, far too soft. There's some green PLA in the bag on top of the pile. I think it's HDPE. Smells like HDPE too. (like a blown out candle.) - fenn

SponsorADay

2010-12-21T03:15:48Z

Gpvillamil:

Sponsor a day at Noisebridge, and you get to name it! It's like a brick, but it's a day. When you sponsor a day of Noisebridge, you provide hundreds of hackers with an excuse to celebrate for a day, and you help keep Noisebridge open.

$165, anonymous is okay, just name the day below, and then give the money to someone responsible looking, who will put their name in the "accepted by" column. You can pay online [[Donate_or_Pay_Dues | via Paypal or direct bank transfer]]. If you use either of these options, be sure to write "Sponsoring (date)" in the description or email treasurer@noisebridge.net if you're uncertain your annotation went through.

Any day which has been named, but doesn't yet have an "accepted by" filled in, is still fair game. Disputes will be resolved by fisticuffs or flamewar.

{| border=1
Sponsored Days in the month of December
|-
! Day
! Day Name
! Sponsor
! Donation accepted by
|-
|2010-12-01 || FIRST POST WOOOOOO || Rachel McConnell || ...
|-
|2010-12-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-08 || [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Discordian_calendar Afflux] || aestetix || ...
|-
|2010-12-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-10 || Be Excellent Day || [[User:miah|Miah Johnson]] || Paypal y0
|-
|2010-12-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-13 || Andy Day || [[User:Adi|adi]] || sent with December dues
|-
|2010-12-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-18 || Caturday || Jason Dusek || ...
|-
|2010-12-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-22 || Kinky sex with Praveen Day || Praveen || Paypal
|-
|2010-12-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-24 || Jof Day || Jof || ...
|-
|2010-12-25 || Christmas || Shannon || Pledged with December's dues.
|-
|2010-12-26 || Al Day || Al || Al (wells fargo transfer)
|-
|2010-12-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-28 || Boring Day || Noodles || Sent via Paypal
|-
|2010-12-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2010-12-31 || Boring Day || dpf || paypal + check
|-

{| border=1
More days you can sponsor!
|-
! Day
! Day Name
! Sponsor
! Donation Notes
|-
|2011-01-01 || SHINY DAY || Rachel McConnell || WF bank transfer
|-
|2011-01-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-01-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-01-31 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-14 || Kiss a Cherub on the Ass Day || [[User:turbclnt|Sean C]] || Paypal!
|-
|2011-02-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
|-
|2011-02-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-02-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-15 || beware the ides of march || ... || ...
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|2011-03-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-03-31 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-05 || Be nice to Gian Pablo day || Gian Pablo || sent via Paypal
|-
|2011-04-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-04-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-05-31 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-25 || damien's birthday || dpf || paypal receiver i hope
|-
|2011-06-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-06-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-05 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-08 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-09 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-10 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-11 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-12 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-13 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-14 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-15 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-16 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-17 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-18 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-19 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-20 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-21 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-22 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-23 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-24 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-25 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-26 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-27 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-28 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-29 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-30 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-07-31 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-08-01 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-08-02 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-08-03 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-08-04 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-08-06 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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|2011-08-07 || Boring Day || ... || ...
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Router table

2010-08-10T20:41:10Z

Gpvillamil: Created page with 'The Dremel router table is a handy accessory that allows precise routing using a Dremel tool. The way you attach the Dremel to the router table is not obvious, since the instruc…'

The Dremel router table is a handy accessory that allows precise routing using a Dremel tool.

The way you attach the Dremel to the router table is not obvious, since the instructions that shipped with it do not match the actual device, instead there is a separate addendum that explains it.

In a nutshell, the real instructions are:

* Loosen the locking knob for the height adjustment
* Lower the tool holder (away from the table) by turning the silver knob
* Remove the collet from the Dremel
* Remove the collar from the Dremel (below the bit), it will expose a thread
* Put the Dremel into the tool bracket on the router table, and use the large flat hex wrench to tighten it into place (You can't just screw the Dremel into the tool bracket, it will rotate freely. You need to use the hex wrench to hold it in place.)
* On/off switch should be visible towards the front
* Bring the Dremel back up to operating height

Use C-Clamps to attach the routing table to a bench.

Adjustment of the routing table is not challenging and is left as an exercise for the reader.

Shop Tools

2010-08-10T20:35:30Z

Gpvillamil:

This is a list of tools we have in the shop and where they go, as we determine that and come up with an organizational scheme and tracking system. It is very much a work in progress. If you notice a tool that is not on this page please add it.

* lathe
* other lathe
* bandsaw
* CNC mill
* cordless drills (3?)
* cordless circular saw
* Dremel (+ [[router table]])

Makerbot

2010-07-07T22:41:44Z

Gpvillamil: /* The Makerbot is Currently Not Working (2010-05-17) */

=The Makerbot is Currently Not Working (2010-05-17) =
[[Category:WhyWeCantHaveNiceThings]]
I ran it without the cooling fan for a half hour and due to a design flaw the extruder self destructed. After reassembly it only extrudes for 10 seconds or so before jamming up. Serious re-engineering of the extruder head will commence after make faire. In the meanwhile you could try searching in the cardboard box for a functional extruder barrel...

I've taken in two functioning nozzle assemblies, and an extruder block with double idler wheel. These should help get the 'bot up and running. The nozzles may need to be heated up, PTFE insulator removed and cleaned. - Gian Pablo

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

*and skeinforge <ref> this is an old version, but it's what i'm using. if you use a later version my settings files will probably not work. </ref> :
http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/files/6_reprap_python_beanshell_2009_12_12.zip

*optionally sudo apt-get install python-psyco

*and my skeinforge settings:
[[File:Good.skeinforge-2010-04-27.tgz.jpg]] (if you can't get raftless to work)

[[File:Raftless red.skeinforge-04-27-10.tgz.jpg]]
(rename and) untar the settings directory and move it to ~/.skeinforge

*get raftless and install in your skeinforge:
http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/12/05/raftless/

*apply this patch (it's actually a .tgz)
[[File:Raftless.patch.jpg]]

ummm.. ok we done yet?

====using the software====
run skeinforge with:
<pre> python skeinforge.py</pre>
click on "Skeinforge" in the lower left, select an STL file, for example [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:5914 pulley.stl] and get ready to wait. the larger the object, longer the wait. you can kinda see what it's doing on the terminal. that file took 2 minutes on my netbook, and larger objects 15 minutes or more. eventually a 2d layer diagram will pop up, and then you can open the .gcode file in replicatorg.

click on the dotted kidney bean (simulate) in replicatorg to make sure everything is working. it should tell you how long the print takes, something like

====fire the makerbot====
* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

== 06/10/2010 ==
What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

''it is PLA, rather than ABS. It melts at a much, much lower temperature.'' - Martin

Makerbot

2010-06-11T05:33:51Z

Gpvillamil:

=The Makerbot is Currently Not Working=
I ran it without the cooling fan for a half hour and due to a design flaw the extruder self destructed. After reassembly it only extrudes for 10 seconds or so before jamming up. Serious re-engineering of the extruder head will commence after make faire. In the meanwhile you could try searching in the cardboard box for a functional extruder barrel...

=How to Use the Makerbot=
if it breaks, we can fix it. don't be afraid of the makerbot! I've crashed it hundreds of times and only permanently broke something once.

====install some software first====
*get yourself a copy of replicatorg:
http://replicat.org/download

*and skeinforge <ref> this is an old version, but it's what i'm using. if you use a later version my settings files will probably not work. </ref> :
http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/files/6_reprap_python_beanshell_2009_12_12.zip

*optionally sudo apt-get install python-psyco

*and my skeinforge settings:
[[File:Good.skeinforge-2010-04-27.tgz.jpg]] (if you can't get raftless to work)

[[File:Raftless red.skeinforge-04-27-10.tgz.jpg]]
(rename and) untar the settings directory and move it to ~/.skeinforge

*get raftless and install in your skeinforge:
http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/12/05/raftless/

*apply this patch (it's actually a .tgz)
[[File:Raftless.patch.jpg]]

ummm.. ok we done yet?

====using the software====
run skeinforge with:
<pre> python skeinforge.py</pre>
click on "Skeinforge" in the lower left, select an STL file, for example [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:5914 pulley.stl] and get ready to wait. the larger the object, longer the wait. you can kinda see what it's doing on the terminal. that file took 2 minutes on my netbook, and larger objects 15 minutes or more. eventually a 2d layer diagram will pop up, and then you can open the .gcode file in replicatorg.

click on the dotted kidney bean (simulate) in replicatorg to make sure everything is working. it should tell you how long the print takes, something like

====fire the makerbot====
* plug in the heated build platform. yes, it's just some wires from the transformer shoved in a monitor power cord.
* turn on the makerbot PSU, it's a switch in the back
* plug in the makerbot usb cable
* run replicatorg (./replicatorg)
* please don't upload any firmware
* the first time you run it, machine->driver->cupcake CNC
* click on the 4 arrows symbol (control panel)
** lay a small piece of paper on the platform
** remove any crud from the nozzle with bent nose pliers (hidden under the EFF hat)
** move X, Y to the center of the platform
** jog down in Z first in 10mm increments, then 1mm increments, until there is maximum drag force on the paper
** jog up in 0.1mm increments until the drag lessens
** click "set zero"
** at the bottom of the control panel there are some settings, set them in this order (motor control actually sends the target temperature command for some reason)
*** Motor Speed (PWM): 255
*** Target Temperature: 222
*** Motor Control: Stop
*** Cooling Fan: enable
** wait until the temperature is above 200 then try a test extrusion (click Motor Control: forward)
*** if nothing happens in ten seconds, stop before you strip out the teeth on the filament
*** if you accidentally start the motor before it's hot, you can fix it by manually pushing the filament into the extruder with some pliers
* the build platform should be plenty hot now
** there might be an IR thermometer in a little duct tape pouch thingy
** it should be around 120-130C for best results
* remove ooze from the nozzle with pliers
* file->open the .gcode file you created earlier with skeinforge
* click 'build' (the solid kidney bean)
* if the first layer doesn't stick at all or peels loose immediately, adjust the z axis down by turning the pulley on top of the makerbot
* if the first layer starts getting fugly during the infill, with crap building up on the nozzle, adjust the z axis up a few steps until it looks perfectly flat with no "fuzz"
***note to self: get some pics and video of first layer too high, first layer too low, and verify zeroing procedure
* now since it probably screwed up somehow, hit stop and remove the grossness with the plastic scraper and/or pliers
* it should still be zeroed, and hopefully at the correct height adjustment now, so just click 'build' again
* if you can't get it to stick at all, the platform is probably at the wrong temperature.
** wait five minutes for it to warm up completely
** or maybe you need to adjust the little cpu fan to blow on the platform to cool it down to 130C (150C is too hot)
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_side.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, side view|your part should look like this or better. I still hadn't tweaked the feedrate perfectly for colored plastic, hence the blobbiness.]]

* ok now presumably you're done printing and nothing went wrong.
** jog Z+ 20mm to give yourself some room
**rotate the makerbot counterclockwise from above about 30 degrees and turn on the big fan for a minute
** now just peel it off with your hand
*** be careful, the part is still soft and can deform
*** it may need a little help with a disposable utility knife or the plastic scraper to break the seal underneath the part
*** it's easier if you remove the build platform - it's held on with magnets

==== tweaking skeinforge ====
[[File:Nophead_pulleys_top.jpg|right|thumbnail|alt=two sample pieces, top view|note the incomplete infill on the right; this was due to improper perimeter width settings. note the square teeth on the left; this is because "stretch" is turned on. this is a good thing.]]
there are about 300 different "craft" settings in skeinforge, and they all interrelate in confusing ways. here's a quick overview of the important ones:
*carve->layer height: should be about 0.8*nozzle hole diameter
*speed->flow rate: 255
*speed->feed rate: start around 25mm/s
*speed->bridge feed rate multiplier: can be important on parts with bridges, but has a bug that messes up other parts
*fill->infill solidity: 0.4 is adequate and not too slow. higher for stronger parts
*fill->infill pattern: controls whether you get hashbrowns or honeycombs
*comb keeps it from driving through empty spaces and making stringies
*raft prints a waffle grid thingy to keep the corners held down
*raftless slows down the first layer and makes a short test extrusion, set this to about 10mm
*oozebane is useless, forget about it
*jitter is good, set it to a large value like 100
*stretch makes corners un-rounded, but can cause data overload stuttering if "stretch from distance" is too small

you can safely ignore the rest

==== care and feeding ====
* don't leave the makerbot unattended for hours, as it can theoretically catch on fire (those heated bed wires are iffy)
* don't leave the extruder hot for hours. periodically flush through plastic to prevent it from oxidizing.
* if you are about to run out of filament, cut off both ends square with diagonal flush cutters (the blue cutters for electronics) and simply hold the filament together as it goes in
*if the filament strips out during use (extruder motor is on, temperature high enough, nothing happening) try pushing it down manually
** if this doesn't work, try reversing the motor until the filament comes out, cut it cleanly, and reinsert
** if it keeps stripping out, you may have to completely disassemble the extruder and remove plastic gunk from the gear teeth.
*** use a long 5/64" or 2mm allen key to set the extruder idler wheel/feed gear spacing
** try not to let it happen in the first place. stripping can be caused by setting the first layer too low, blocking the nozzle and letting pressure build up
*don't upgrade the firmware unless you're willing to deal with the consequences
*keep it away from bright light
*don't get any water on it
*never, never ever feed it after midnight.

= Usage log =
please write your name, what you tried to make, and what happened below (pics or it didnt happen)
----
[[File:Minimendel_Z_leadscrew_base_motor.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|mini mendel Z leadscrew base and motor mount. This bastard took 2 hours and almost the entire remaining roll of green. It started to peel up badly at the back corner. I rescued it by melting the corner back down with a soldering iron. [[User:Fenn|Fenn]] 13:07, 1 May 2010 (UTC)]]

[[File:example.jpg|none|thumbnail|600px|caption text]]

= Construction log =
This describes the current progress of the building of the Makerbot. Instructions are found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake here], and a forum for it is found [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot here].

Noisebridge's Makerbot kit, thoughtfully purchased by Mitch, arrived at 83C on Monday evening, July 20. Leading the assembly team is Joachim, along with Christoph, Rachel, Steve (Mr Domino), and Jeffrey (ieatlint).

It took about an hour and a half to go through and check the parts against the [http://pony.noisebridge.net/~cmaier/makerbot/parts_lists.ods parts list]. <strike>We think we are missing a bag of "laser cut pulleys" but it's hard to be completely sure, as there are a LOT of parts and they are not all labeled exactly as in the parts list</strike> A bag of "laser cut pulleys" was replaced by MakerBot-made pulleys, but the parts lists weren't updated. We determined to start assembly anyway.

== Cupcake [[Makerbot/Electronics|Electronics]] Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-electronics-assembly Instructions] Christoph soldering one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Stepper_driver|stepper motor drivers]], one of the [[Makerbot/Electronics/endstop_switches|endstop switches]], and the SMD parts on the [[Makerbot/Electronics/Motherboard|motherboard]] with only occasional bitching to people to '''''STOP MOVING THE TABLE'''''.

Motherboard is tested and able to control stepper motors. Regular firmware needs to be flashed back onto it. [http://wiki.makerbot.com/burn-custom-firmware-using-arduino This] may help. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 02:55, 25 July 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Pulley Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-pulley-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake CNC Body Assembly ==
We got the first part of the body together without difficulty, but had trouble with the Z stage as one of the parts had changed from when the docs were written. The Z stage rod holding guides changed from being O-shaped to being U-shaped, and are marked "Z guides". The forums told us to use them anyway.

The next problem was with threaded rods, which had been cut to size. The ends of some would not take a nut. We solved this with judicious use of the bench grinder. There were LOTS of nut/rod jokes, and we were in a state where they were actually funny! [[User:Rachel|Rachel]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Progressed to and including the step entitled "Z-stage stepper wiring" as detailed on the body assembly [http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-body-assembly instructions]. The body assembly is nearly completed. [[User:Ieatlint|Ieatlint]] 03:52, 21 July 2009 (PDT)

Stages assembled and motherboard and stepper driver circuits in place. Driver boards are tested. Axis stops are installed, platforms still need craft stick beam breaks installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:45, 2 August 2009 (PDT)

== Cupcake Y Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-y-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Cupcake X Stage Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-x-stage-assembly Instructions].

== Plastruder MK3 Assembly ==
[http://wiki.makerbot.com/plastruder-mk3-assembly Instructions]
*Note: Ubuntu 9.04 specific: the librxtxSerial.so and the RXTXcomm.jar that come in the replicatorg download need to be replaced with some binaries from this other place that I don't remember. -[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

*Progressed through to end of Heater Barrel Assembly. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 04:24, 21 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through the Filament Drive Assembly, and Joachim mastered the extruder electronics. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 02:03, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel through step 3. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 13:17, 24 July 2009 (PDT)
*Progressed through Attach Heater barrel to the end. [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] 20:46, 26 July 2009 (PDT)

Continue at Plastruder burn in test. The burn in test can't be completed until the Thermistor and extruder board are recognized by the control system.

*Plastruder board burnt out a few components on power up test. Ordered new plastruder driver from makerbot, should arrive at 83C soon. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 06:43, 2 August 2009 (PDT)
**New plastruder control board received and installed. -- [[User:JSharp|JSharp]] 10:52, 9 August 2009 (PDT)

= Status Reports =

== 10/18/09 ==

Martin - The makerbot is working and printing objects well. You will need to download and install "ReplicatorG" and "skeinforge" in order to use the bot. The software runs on Mac, Linux, and PC. (skeinforge requires Python, ReplicatorG requires Java) Example objects are next to the bot.

The X/Y/Z stage endpoints are not yet installed. It requires a number of popsicle sticks to be cut to the correct length and the stage to be calibrated. You can operate the MakerBot with ***great*** care without them.

The extruder head has been upgraded to the Mark-4, with a new bearing and idler wheel. Also, the extruder head is now insulated with the same material they use to insulate the Space Shuttle heat tiles from the skin of the shuttle itself. *** IT IS EXPENSIVE. PLEASE DON'T TAKE APART! *** I can't replace the material, it was given as a gift from a friend at JPL.

Please read all the instructions on how to use the MakerBot on the [[http://wiki.makerbot.com/|MakerBot Wiki Site]] before attempting to use it.

== 08/24/09 ==
Thanks to excellent efforts and support from Martin, the MakerBot is now in a semi-functional state. There are three things that need to be worked on, however:
# The Y stage endpoint is installed incorrectly (the Y stage and physically crash into it)
# The nichrome wire needs to be better insulated so it can maintain higher temperatures and consistent temperatures.
# The feeding mechanism needs to be reviewed, as it appears that it fails to operate reliably.

Please do NOT attempt to disassemble the plastruder header.
Also, do NOT attempt to operate the MakerBot unless you really know what you're doing.

== 01/10/2010 ==
Much has happened to the Makerbot since last noted,
the broken idler wheel was replaced and the extruder head assembly was upgraded by me using parts from Bre when he was here. Thanks Bre!
I also at that time upgraded the firmware and printed a bunch of skull throwies, yay!
Time has passed between then and now and many people have been reporting the makerbot in sickly condition, after much testing I am glad to report this not the case. go go makerbot!

== 03/10/2010 ==
Bre was here on 20/2 and installed a heated build platform on the Makerbot. The heated platform is a new development, still in prototype stage. It is awesome because it prevents warping, and allows workpieces to stick to the build platform without having to build a raft.

He left a sheet of instructions, they say:

"... While here we set you up with a heated build platform. It's
hooked up to the fans pot. So before you print, go into the control
panel and click [x] fan and it will turn it on. Let it warm up for at
least 5 minutes and then print on it. When the model is done, let it
cool for 5 minutes and it will 'pop' right off the warm kapton tape.

We are also leaving you a spare parts kit for the extruder. Your
nozzle is super thick and slow. This new nozzle has a smaller nozzle
hole. Make it, use it, love it!

Bre and Zack, Makerbot"

When asked about the workings of the heated build platform, he said:

"Yup, ours is a prototype part, it's awesome but not very well documented.

You want to plug it in above the mosfet that usually runs the fan.

You can then go into the control panel and just turn the fan on, let
it heat up for 8-10 minutes and it will get to about 110F.

Print away and remember to turn it off and unplug the bot when you're done!"

Please note that he's left us the parts for an improved extruder - up to us to build it - and some of the new colored ABS plastic.

== 04/03/2010 ==
After using the makerbot all day I (fenn) noticed the Z axis was consistently jamming up when traversing above 125mm/min. Several hours of head-scratching later I discovered that the heated platform would cause the large acrylic plate that holds the extruder to heat up and expand, pushing outwards on the Z-axis nuts and causing the mechanism to bind ever so slightly. The simple fix of filing the plate down was complicated by the lack of small files and the fact that the machine was assembled wrong, requiring removal of the four small u-shaped plywood "guide plates", which I put back in the correct orientation: gap outwards.

I'm not sure the heated build platform actually ever gets hot enough for ABS to stick to the kapton tape. It seems to max out at 95 celsius, as measured with an infrared thermometer. The RepRap wiki suggests 120-220 degrees for ABS. Perhaps connect the platform directly to a higher voltage power supply?

Lacking a hot enough bed for the first layer to stick to, blue masking tape sorta almost works (the first time you use it), and I got much better results when I taped a business card on top and printed on that instead. I printed a few gears and hope to add a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794 "wade extruder"] soonish.

== 04/09/2010 ==
I (fenn) came in today and it appeared that nobody had touched the makerbot since I last left it. But the nozzle wouldn't heat up. Voltage to the wires, it just didnt get hot. So, heeding the warning to not disassemble the nozzle, I removed it and swapped in another one, which works a lot better anyway. Then I attached a 16V transformer to the heated bed, and now it gets up to 165C which is much better than the old 90C running on 12V. Now the first layer actually sticks! Z axis seems to still be jamming up; I didn't file the notches deep enough I guess. Wish I had more time to play with it. Skeinforge settings that seem to work with ABS:
layer height: 0.4mm, flow rate: 255, feed rate: 25mm/s.

== 04/11/2010 ==
added a fan to cool off the acrylic plate. make sure you enable the fan before printing and it shouldn't jam up anymore. seems to be working reliably now.

hint: instead of trying to adjust the Z zero in software, manually adjust the height as it prints the first layer.

caution: plugging in or unplugging the heater transformer may cause the power strip breaker to trip and reset the makerbot.

== 04/13/2010 ==
leveled bed by shaving down tabs that were sticking up, pushing magnets back in, and adding a small strip of kapton tape. adjusted toothed gear/idler wheel spacing with 5/64 allen key.

Some of the magnets on the Y stage are in sideways (poles on left & right), not upright (poles on top & bottom). I found this when building my Makerbot, since I wanted the build platform to be interoperable, I tried placing the magnets on the Y stage of the NB 'bot to check polarity, and found that they were sticking corner-to-corner, not face-to-face. - Gian Pablo

==06/10/2010
What is the large spool of white plastic next to the Makerbot? It seems a lot softer than ABS, and certainly acts strange when I try to print with it. (It is so soft that it scrunches up in the extruder feed channel, and the pinch wheel starts grinding into it super quickly. It doesn't stink when heated.) Could it be Shapelock? - Gian Pablo

Makerbot

2010-06-11T05:31:25Z

Gpvillamil: /* 04/13/2010 */

Makerbot

2010-06-11T05:27:25Z

Gpvillamil: /* 04/13/2010 */

User:Gpvillamil

2010-05-03T02:48:39Z

Gpvillamil:

Hi there!

I'm a graduate of NYU's Interactive Telecommunications Program, a kind of digital media arts/technology studies program.

Before that (in another life) I got an MBA from IESE in Barcelona, and spent 16 years consulting for mostly telecoms companies around the world.

I am interested in video art and installations, and also have a thriving sideline in handmade electronic musical instruments.

My website [http://villamil.org/ villamil.org] has info on this and other things.

==== [http://villamil.org/ssh.txt RSA SSH public key] ====
ssh-rsa AAAAB3NzaC1yc2EAAAABJQAAAIBqzc/peQ1usGZu/5Fb1AdYdUhtxBgEzzbTtryF5zvebUL7Ry6wkYOF5GNYrAKzPeHmhVfJDlE8RJ4age++Bwk5P9SOzqk5B+zSau5D3wVk7m1SDt1v+LQWlmJ9zceVuWEaSWgPiAFpVu1HkCjz151nzjT6VWwSf+sj9ADNZtOogw== gian.pablo@gmail.com

==== /etc/passwd entry ====

$ sudo adduser --gecos 'Gian Pablo Villamil' --shell /bin/bash gpvillamil

User:Gpvillamil

2010-05-03T02:45:27Z

Gpvillamil:

User:Gpvillamil

2010-05-03T02:43:17Z

Gpvillamil:

Polycaprolactone

2010-04-19T02:16:24Z

Gpvillamil:

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone Polycaprolactone] AKA Shapelock, CAPA 6800, CAPA 6500, PCL, Friendly Plastic

==Group order for polycaprolactone==

How many kg do you want? This enjoyable, useful polymer is $18/kg ($8.16/lb) ($0.51/oz)

===Status of Order===

I have a new sales Rep at Tri-ISO, Aaron. I have him working on a quote for 60-90kg of CAPA 6800 in 3mm pellet form. I told him it would be a repeating order of about 40kg a year. That's not a commitment, but just trying to keep him interested and I wouldn't be surprised if that turned out to be realistic. '''Where noted in () a dollar amount was pledged rather than a number of kg. Depending on the final $/kg the amount of $ pledged will take precedence.'''

email from Corey on 4-5-10: Dillo and I tested the two materials along side "Shapelock" and we have confirmed that CAPA 6800 is the material we want. The 6500 is great to work with, but because of it's greater "Melt Flow Index" (rate at which material is extruded when standard force is applied) when in its semisolid form, it flows more freely, which is challenging when working by hand as the material oozes out of the shape formed. I will not be entertaining having a split CAPA 6500/ CAPA 6800 order this time around. The materials are not different enough to warrant complicating the order. People working with molds may consider CAPA 6500 in the future, but, again, the differences are not that great.

<big>'''Price has been finalized -- please update your pledge to reflect the number of kilograms you would like and add "- FINAL"'''</big>

===People who want polycaprolactone to call their very own===

i.e., they would like to buy it as part of a group purchase; stating a number of kg is preferable to stating a number of dollars
* Marnia Johnston - 2.13 kg - FINAL ($30)
* Robert Harris - 4 kg - FINAL ($18 x 4 = $72)
* Martin Bogomolni - 2 kg - FINAL 3/10/2010 - ($18 x 2 = $36)
* David Yao - 4 kg - FINAL ($18 x 4 = $72)
* Christopher Nielsen - 5 kg
* Christie Dudley - 1 kg - FINAL ($14.78)
* Chris Paget - 1 kg - FINAL ($14.78)
* H4RDW4RE - 4kg - FINAL ($59.12)
* Lee Sonko - 2 kg - FINAL
* Mike Ashmore - 3 kg - FINAL ($44.34)
* Ryan Castellucci - 2 kg - FINAL ($29.56)
* Seth Schoen - 2 kg - FINAL
* Michael Shiloh - 2 kg
* Mark Ellis - 2 kg - FINAL ($29.56)
* Efrem Lipkin - 2 kg - FINAL ($29.56)
* Reto Stamm - FINAL 5kg
* Matthew Silvey - 3 kg - FINAL ($44.34)
* Nathan Saichek - 2 kg - FINAL
* Peter Kaminski - 1.5 kg - FINAL
* Christopher Rasch - 2 kg ($20)
* Andy Isaacson - 2 kg ($30)
* Corey - 6 kg ($88.68)
* Danny O'B - 1 kg FINAL
* Liz Henry - 2 kg FINAL
* Sean Mahan - 1 kg FINAL (<=$18/kg)
* Paul Lambert - 4 kg FINAL ($59.12)
* Mike Albaugh - 4 kg FINAL ($59.12)
* Steve Jasik - 2.13 kg - FINAL ($30)
* Robert Poor - 1 kg
* Ever Falling - 2 kg ($20)
* Michael M. Butler - 1.5 kg "FINAL" ( 19 MAR 2010) FINAL ( :\ 1/2 :) -- I'm trying to hit $25 all-up. )
* Kate McKinley - 3 kg FINAL ($44.34, add S&H)
* Kirk McKusick - 2 kg
* Harry Pottash - 2 kg FINAL
* Marnia - 2 kg
* Mike Van Pelt - 2 kg FINAL 4/5/2010
* Ian Atha - 1 kg
* Conor McQuaid - 3 kg ($44.34)
* ben lipkowitz - 2 kg ($30) FINAL
* Stephen Williams - 10 kg FINAL Paid $180 4/17/2010
* Charles Merriam - 2 kg ($30)
* Kevin Seghetti (kts at tenetti.org) - 1 kg ($20)
* Rachel McConnell - 1 kg - FINAL, also new ($18)
* Dillo - 2 kg FINAL also new ($30)
* Andy vH. - 3 kg - FINAL also new ($44.34)
* Max Elman - 1 kg FINAL, also new ($14.78)
* Xander Hudson - 5kg - FINAL, also new ($90)
* Mark Harrison - 2kg - FINAL, also new ($30)
* [[User:MCT|Michael Toren]] - 3kg, FINAL, also new
* nils - 2kg final new
* Mikolaj - 1kg fnord final new
* stig hackvan - 2kg
* Glen Jarvis - 2kg - FINAL, also new ($30) [To help make our minimum]
* Gian Pablo Villamil - 2kg FINAL

total: 134.26

===People who have ideas or financial pledges for things Noisebridge would do with polycaprolactone===

i.e., they want to donate money earmarked for Noisebridge to purchase some for a non-profit purpose, or they just have an idea

* person - proposal