https://wiki.extremist.software/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Akelly 2026-04-04T20:38:12Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.39.13 https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=70257 2019-10-23T08:13:36Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Beka (@beka on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * R (@r on slack)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope on slack)<br /> * Andy lemons (@signal on slack)<br /> * David (@broccoli on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Full list: [[Laser_Manual/Who_can_use_the_laser_cutter]]<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> ==== Route 1: DIY ====<br /> # Read through the tutorial (currently unavailable)<br /> # Ask a trainer if they will verify the content you learned in the tutorial<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> ==== Route 2: Laser Safety Class! ====<br /> # Laser safety training classes are posted on our [https://www.meetup.com/noisebridge Meetup]. Size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # '''When you focus the laser, ALWAYS make sure the metal adaptor for the air hose is facing straight towards you'''<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> ===Laser cutter doesn't turn on properly===<br /> <br /> Symptom: https://youtu.be/AMNTKEAC3R0<br /> <br /> This is likely because the e-stop was pressed before, and it needs to be twisted to be released back into its popped-out position.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS or PETG || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> '''Since upgrading the laser cutter to 150W, we have not tested and updated most settings. Please start at HALF the power as before and test carefully, increasing the power until you get a clean cut, and don't use power greater than 55% to prolong the life of our tube. (you probably won't be able to cut wood or MDF thicker than 1/4 inch or 6mm)'''<br /> <br /> [[Old 100W Laser Cutter Settings for Known Good Materials]]<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; style=&quot;width: 200px;&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;width: 500px; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2.3mm or 3/32 inch) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.8mm or 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5 || 15 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (3-4mm, single corrugated) || || || 200 || 55 || || 400|| 10 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6mm, two layers corrugated) || || || 50 || 55 || || 400|| 15 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 100lb) || || || 200 || 20 || || 400|| 5 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Heat N Bond woven fusible || || || 100 || 12 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - KONA cotton from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Silky fabric from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 50 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 15 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood, Birch (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 50 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood, Birch (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 30 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Rubber, natural (McMaster Carr #8525T53) || || || 20 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (McMaster Carr #1460N24) || || || 10 || 55 || || || || Doesn't cut through all the way -- only enough to rip the pieces out by hand.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Sorbothane Rubber (1/8 inch) || || || 13 || 50 || || || || Creates an inky black liquid. Washes away easily with water.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Sorbothane Rubber (1/4 inch adhesive backed) || || || 6 || 50 || || || || Adhesive side up<br /> <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, Amazon and eBay are pretty good resources.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive. The Tap Plastics offcut bin is a great resource and a great deal. [http://eplastics.com eplastics] online is another option, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=70256 2019-10-23T08:10:38Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Beka (@beka on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * R (@r on slack)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope on slack)<br /> * Andy lemons (@signal on slack)<br /> * David (@broccoli on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Full list: [[Laser_Manual/Who_can_use_the_laser_cutter]]<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> ==== Route 1: DIY ====<br /> # Read through the tutorial (currently unavailable)<br /> # Ask a trainer if they will verify the content you learned in the tutorial<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> ==== Route 2: Laser Safety Class! ====<br /> # Laser safety training classes are posted on our [https://www.meetup.com/noisebridge Meetup]. Size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # '''When you focus the laser, ALWAYS make sure the metal adaptor for the air hose is facing straight towards you'''<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> ===Laser cutter doesn't turn on properly===<br /> <br /> Symptom: https://youtu.be/AMNTKEAC3R0<br /> <br /> This is likely because the e-stop was pressed before, and it needs to be twisted to be released back into its popped-out position.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS or PETG || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> '''Since upgrading the laser cutter to 150W, we have not tested and updated most settings. Please start at HALF the power as before and test carefully, increasing the power until you get a clean cut, and don't use power greater than 55% to prolong the life of our tube. (you probably won't be able to cut wood or MDF thicker than 1/4 inch or 6mm)'''<br /> <br /> [[Old 100W Laser Cutter Settings for Known Good Materials]]<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; style=&quot;width: 200px;&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;width: 500px; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2.3mm or 3/32 inch) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.8mm or 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5 || 15 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (3-4mm, single corrugated) || || || 200 || 55 || || 400|| 10 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6mm, two layers corrugated) || || || 50 || 55 || || 400|| 15 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 100lb) || || || 200 || 20 || || 400|| 5 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Heat N Bond woven fusible || || || 100 || 12 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - KONA cotton from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Silky fabric from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 50 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 15 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood, Birch (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 50 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood, Birch (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 30 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Rubber, natural (McMaster Carr #8525T53) || || || 20 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (McMaster Carr #1460N24) || || || 10 || 55 || || || || Doesn't cut through all the way -- only enough to rip the pieces out by hand.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Sorbothane Rubber (1/8 inch) || || || 13 || 50 || || || || Creates an inky black liquid. Washes away easily with water.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Sorbothane Rubber (1/4 inch adhesive backed) || || || 6 || 50 || || || || Adhesive side up<br /> <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=70252 2019-10-22T08:14:21Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Beka (@beka on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * R (@r on slack)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope on slack)<br /> * Andy lemons (@signal on slack)<br /> * David (@broccoli on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Full list: [[Laser_Manual/Who_can_use_the_laser_cutter]]<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> ==== Route 1: DIY ====<br /> # Read through the tutorial (currently unavailable)<br /> # Ask a trainer if they will verify the content you learned in the tutorial<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> ==== Route 2: Laser Safety Class! ====<br /> # Laser safety training classes are posted on our [https://www.meetup.com/noisebridge Meetup]. Size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # '''When you focus the laser, ALWAYS make sure the metal adaptor for the air hose is facing straight towards you'''<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> ===Laser cutter doesn't turn on properly===<br /> <br /> Symptom: https://youtu.be/AMNTKEAC3R0<br /> <br /> This is likely because the e-stop was pressed before, and it needs to be twisted to be released back into its popped-out position.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS or PETG || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> '''Since upgrading the laser cutter to 150W, we have not tested and updated most settings. Please start at HALF the power as before and test carefully, increasing the power until you get a clean cut, and don't use power greater than 55% to prolong the life of our tube. (you probably won't be able to cut wood or MDF thicker than 1/4 inch or 6mm)'''<br /> <br /> [[Old 100W Laser Cutter Settings for Known Good Materials]]<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; style=&quot;width: 200px;&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;width: 500px; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2.3mm or 3/32 inch) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.8mm or 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5 || 15 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (3-4mm, single corrugated) || || || 200 || 55 || || 400|| 10 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6mm, two layers corrugated) || || || 50 || 55 || || 400|| 15 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 100lb) || || || 200 || 20 || || 400|| 5 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Heat N Bond woven fusible || || || 100 || 12 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - KONA cotton from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Silky fabric from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 50 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 15 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood, Birch (3mm or 1/8 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 50 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood, Birch (6mm or 1/4 inch) || 400 || 5-10 depending on darkness || 30 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Sorbothane Rubber (1/8 inch) || || || 13 || 50 || || || || Creates an inky black liquid. Washes away easily with water.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Sorbothane Rubber (1/4 inch adhesive backed) || || || 6 || 50 || || || || Adhesive side up<br /> <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=NoisebridgeChinaTrip8&diff=66715 2018-07-13T19:55:02Z

<p>Akelly: I booked a flight!</p> <hr /> <div>= NOISEBRIDGE HACKER TRIP TO CHINA #8&lt;br&gt;-- Start Date: 3-November-2018, in Beijing&lt;br&gt;-- End Date: 23-November-2018, in Shenzhen=<br /> <br /> [[File:HTTC2014WelcomeHackers.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #4 Welcome to China!, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:KungFuHacking_Nov_2013.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #3 Kung Fu Hacking: Hackers In Residence Kickoff event at Tsinghua University, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:petrochemical_university.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #2 Visit to Petrochemical Univeristy, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Beijing_Oct_2009.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #1 Jingshan Park, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Shenzhen_Oct_2016.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #5 Visit to Seeed Studio's factory, Shenzhen]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Zhenzhou_Oct_2016.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #5 Presentations at Zhengzhou High School #2, Zhengzhou]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;''The start and end dates and cities for this year's Hacker Trip To China are now set!''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''Start: 3-November-2018, in Beijing'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''End: 23-November-2018, in Shenzhen'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;<br /> '''If you want to be part of this years Hacker Trip To China,'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;<br /> '''it is time to purchase your plane tickets!'''<br /> &lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''It is also time to book your hotel in Beijing!'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> Please email Mitch for details:&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;''mitch *AT* CornfieldElectronics *DOT* com''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> == Previous Hacker Trips To China ==<br /> ::''This will be the 8th Noisebridge Hacker Trip To China.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::'''''(Though the start and end dates are now set, and the start and end cities are now set, the rest of the itinerary is only an outline and open to change.)'''''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''In previous years' Hacker Trips To China, we've visited cities that currently have a hackerspace, visited my manufacturer, Seeed Studio, and other manufacturers. We also visited Tsinghua University, considered the most prestigious university in China, and other schools -- all of which have now started hackerspaces. China continues to explode with hackerspaces! We also went to the International Exhibition of Inventions Kunshan (IEIK 2014), near Shanghai. We've also gone to Maker Faires and similar events in Beijing, Shanghai, and Shenzhen. And everywhere we went, we were shown around by local geeks, to see what they thought was interesting where they live.''<br /> <br /> ::''Wherever we went, those of us interested gave talks, presentations, workshops, and demos. In 2017 we gave presentations at: Maker Bay and Dim Sum Labs in Hong Kong; at HAX, x.Factory, and Lab0x0 in Shenzhen; at Niba Makerspace and for the mayor of Xi'an in Xi'an; at Tsinghua University's iCenter and Beijing LUG in Beijing, and at DFRobot (an open hardware company in Shanghai), Mushroom Cloud, and XinCheJian hackerspcae in Shanghai.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ::''You can see info from the previous Trips:&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip2|Hacker Trip To China 2011]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip3|Hacker Trip To China 2013]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip4|Hacker Trip To China 2014]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip5|Hacker Trip To China 2015]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip6|Hacker Trip To China 2016]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip7|Hacker Trip To China 2017]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ::-- [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]].<br /> <br /> == This year's Hacker Trip To China ==<br /> '''When: 3-Nov in Beijing'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;through&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''23-Nov in Shenzhen'''.<br /> <br /> '''Flight, transportation, and hotel Info''': It is up to each person to book your own air fare to meet in our starting city, Beijing, on 3-November (which probably means leaving your home on 2-November), and to fly home from our ending city, Shenzhen, on 23-November. ''(Of course, you can decide to come before or after our start date, and leave before or after our end date -- you are free to come and go as you please -- some of us will spend a few days in Hong Kong after Shenzhen.)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> I'll organized the itinerary and the hotels and other transport. I'll pay in advance for some of this, and you can pay me back when we're in China.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Where:''' In each of the cities we will go to, we'll visit some of their local hackerspace(s), and will be shown around by local geeks to see what interests them where they live. We'll also have plenty of time to do &quot;normal&quot; (and spectacular) tourist things too!&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''NOTE THAT THE INFO BELOW IS ONLY A BRIEF POSSIBLE OUTLINE:'''&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Here's some possible places we might visit, leaving plenty of room for the serendipity that makes our Hacker Trip To China truly unique and memorable:'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> * We will start our trip by meeting in &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Beijing'''&lt;/span&gt; where we may visit [http://www.bjmakerspace.com/ Beijing Makerspace], and other hackerspaces. We'll also visit Tsinghua University, where they built the &quot;world's largest hackerspace&quot; in 2015 (called the &quot;iCenter&quot;), and where I've been hacker in residence. Beijing has lots and lots of way amazing stuff to visit and be a part of!<br /> * We will probably next go to &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Xi'an'''&lt;/span&gt;, where we will be shown some of the extensive activity to encourage &quot;innovation&quot; there. We can give presentations at [http://www.nibaspace.com/index/ Niba Makerspace], where lots of way cool and interesting things are happening. Our hosts will also show us lots of local arts and cultural activities, as well as give us a tour of the 10,000 Terracotta Warriors.<br /> * We may go to &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; '''Chengdu''' &lt;/span&gt; from there, home of the panda bears, as well as another new Chinese &quot;innovation&quot; hub.<br /> * We may then visit &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Shanghai'''&lt;/span&gt;. In Shanghai we will visit [http://www.etonnet.com/ my manufacturer (Etonnet)] that I have used for [http://www.tvbgone.com TV-B-Gone] remote controls and [http://www.neurodreamer.com NeuroDreamer] sleep masks, where we will all get to see how products are made, from start to finish, learning how manufacturing works. We will also visit [http://xinchejian.com/ XinCheJian] hackerspace in Shanghai, the coolest hackerspace in all of China. We can also visit companies started by hardware hacker geeks, such as [http://www.dfrobot.com/ DFRobot]. We can also visit the [http://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/4064240200/in/set-72157622640069902/ Shanghai electronics mall] (a smaller version of the famous electronics mall we will later visit in Shenzhen). <br /> * We'll finish our Trip in &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Shenzhen'''&lt;/span&gt;, where we can visit [http://www.chaihuo.org/ Chaihuo Makerspace], [http://www.szdiy.org/ SZDIY] hackerspace, and a few other hackerspaces, some of which are real, and hundreds of which are new over-the-top bizarre government-started places where they want to create &quot;the next Apple&quot; (we won't visit them all!). We can visit [http://www.chaihuo.org/xfactory/ x.factory] while we are in town, an interesting mix of hackerspace and incubator, where we can organize a Bring-A-Hack event, where anyone of us (for those who want to), along with the general public, can show off our projects. We will also visit [http://www.seeedstudio.com Seeed Studio] - the open source hardware company - to meet the cool folks there and to see their manufacturing facilities. We may meet with the founders of [http://dangerousprototypes.com/ Dangerous Prototypes] - another open source hardware company. We'll also visit other manufacturers, to see where all the things we use in our daily lives come from (such as springs, cables, PCBs, packaging, etc., etc.). We can also visit [http://www.dorabot.com/ Dorabot], a Chinese robotics company comprised of people in the Shenzhen hackerspace scene. We may also visit [https://hax.co/ HAX], the first and biggest hardware accelerator (and where I'm a mentor) -- those who wanted to gave presentations at HAX last year. Of course, we'll also visit the famous (and totally awesome!) [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/shenzhen/print Huaqiangbei electronics market] in Shenzhen (where, we may again be shown around by famous hackers who really know the place well). If the timing works out, we will go to the [http://www.shenzhenmakerfaire.com/ Shenzhen Maker Faire].&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> For most of us, our trip will end at the end of three weeks, as many people on our trip will fly home from our last city, Shenzhen, on 23-November. But, since &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Hong Kong'''&lt;/span&gt; is just over the border from mainland China, some of us will go there to fly home (since it is cheaper, and since Hong Kong is a way cool city).<br /> <br /> ''Of course, everyone is free to arrive and leave whenever you like for the Hacker Trip To China.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Cost:''' For the Hacker Trip To China 2017, I paid $2,656 total (for 4 weeks, since I stayed longer than the Trip), including air fare from SF, food, lodging, transportation, a new smart phone, a bunch of new clothing, and everything.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''As in past years, part of this year's trip may be paid for by Tsinghua University, our hosts in Xi'an, and other hosts that invite us to give presentations.''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''#hashtag:''' [https://twitter.com/hashtag/httc2018 #httc2018] &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;(Hacker Trip To China 2018)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Itinerary outline for Hacker Trip to China 8 ==<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''NOTE: THE FOLLOWING INFO IS ONLY A POSSIBLE OUTLINE'''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The start and end dates are set, the start and end cities are set, but the rest of the itinerary is open to serendipity:'''<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''2-November-2017 -- '''Leave home''' for '''Beijing''' (arrive in Beijing on 3-November)''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:fuchsia&quot;&gt;''3-November-2017 -- We all meet in '''Beijing''' -- hotel: various -- [https://www.booking.com/hotel/cn/hyde-hotel.en-gb.html in an around Hyde Courtyard Hotel]&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''3-November to 9-November -- Beijing'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> 3-November, 8pm: Group dinner<br /> 5-October, 1pm: Bring A Hack at [http://moonshotacademy.cn/ Moonshot Acadamy]<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''9-November -- train to Xi'an''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''9-November to 13-November -- Xi'an'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''13-November -- train to Chengdu''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''13-November to 15-November -- Chengdu'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''15-November -- train to Shanghai''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''15-November to 18-November -- Shanghai'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''18-November -- train to Shenzhen''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''18-November to 23-November -- Shenzhen'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt; ''<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''23-November -- '''fly home''' (arrive NA or EU on same day)''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''After Shenzhen some people may go to Hong Kong for a few days'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt; ''<br /> <br /> == Very Useful Guide about Internet, Phones, Translation, and Navigation ==<br /> Here is [[Noahs_Guide|a very useful guide]] about internet in China, phones in China, translating Chinese, and navigation in China! This was written in 2017, and should all still be relevant for this year.<br /> <br /> == Hong Kong Guide ==<br /> [[Hong Kong Guide]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip To China 2017==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2017HongKong.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Shenzhen.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Xian.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Beijing.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Shanghai.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Beijing2.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157665928352469/ Hong Kong, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157665929390189/ Shenzhen, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157688052606231/ Xi'an, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157688052837801/ Beijing, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157687009709482/ Shanghai, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157688893716634/ Beijing Set 2, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157665931188619/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2017 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip To China 2016==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2016Shanghai.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Zhenzhou.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Shenzhen.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Beijing.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Hangzhou.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Beijing2.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157672475058474/ Shanghai, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157674645655612/ Zhengzhou, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676024748146/ Shenzhen, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676142107066/ Beijing, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676144570756/ Hangzhou, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157672603805234/ Beijing Set 2, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157674928976010/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2016 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip to China 2015==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2015HongKongNeon.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015ShenzhenFactory.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015ShanghaiTempleMall.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015BeijingDoor.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015HangzhouTemple.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015BeijingShop.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015SuzhouUmbrellas.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157659076735178 Hong Kong, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157660026965949 Shenzhen, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157660038275888 Shanghai, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157658114137264 Beijing, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157660424228042 YiWu &amp; Hangzhou, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157660650175925 Beijing Set 2, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157658310336814 Shanghai &amp; Suzhou, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157660374807166/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2015 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [https://picasaweb.google.com/dtharn/ChinaInOctober2015?feat=directlink Dave's photos]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blake's photos:<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/sets/72157662429341996 Hong Kong!]<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157660150285384 Shenzen!]<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157661790873029 Shanghai!]<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157660153522904 Beijing!]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Torrey's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/gp/torrey/Q840rT Hong Kong]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Torrey's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/gp/torrey/yLo903 Shenzhen]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Torrey's photos from [https://flic.kr/s/aHskqNiQeX Beijing]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Torrey's photos from [https://flic.kr/s/aHskrE55NX Shanghai]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip to China 2014==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2014WelcomeHackers.jpg<br /> File:HTTC20143Nod_b.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014AiWeiWei.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014BeijingLGBTcentre.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Brooms.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014CableFactory.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014ChaiHuo.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014GiantSewing.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Huaqianbei.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014IEIK2014.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014SeeedStudio.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Shanghai.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Tianjin.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Tienanmen.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014TrainConvenienceStore.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014TsinghuaMakersDay.jpg<br /> File:HTTC20143Nod.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014XinCheJian.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157646894397704/ Beijing, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157648975298719/ Shanghai, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157648981933060/ Shenzhen, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649396351315/ Kunshan, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649148594118/ Shanghai (2), Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649146775640/ Beijing (2), Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649146987360/ Tianjin, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157647372474753/ Beijing (3), Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649287546450/ Singapore, Dec-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157649162773126/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2014 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == You will Need a Chinese Visa!! ==<br /> To go to China, you needed to get a visa!<br /> <br /> Everyone should get a multiple-entry Tourist L visa (if you only get a single-entry visa, you'll be fine, but you won't have as many options, such as going in and out of Shenzhen to Hong Kong).<br /> <br /> * And to get a visa, you need to have a passport that is valid ''at least'' 12 months after you planned to fly away from China (so, e.g., if you are leaving China on 23-November-2018, then your passport needs to be valid through 22-November-2019). Your passport must also have at least ''one entirely blank page''.<br /> <br /> * You also need:<br /> ** a printout of a filled-out [http://www.chinaconsulatesf.org/chn/qianzhen/zgqz/P020130828366275572026.pdf Visa Application Form V. 2013 of the People's Republic of China]. (If you like, please email me, and I can reply with my filled out visa form from 2015, so you have an example to follow).<br /> ** a copy of the information pages of your passport.<br /> ** a copy of your most recent Chinese visa (if you have been to China before).<br /> ** one 2&quot;x2&quot; recent color photo (not a printout).<br /> ** a screenshot or printout of hotel reservation confirmation (I'll email this to you when I have this).<br /> ** a copy of your airline tickets (both to and from China).<br /> <br /> * For US citizens, the visa cost $140 (but it is much cheaper for other nationalities). Starting in 2015, US citizens can get a multiple-entry visa, good for 10 years (even though there is no option for this on the visa form). We should all apply for a Tourist L visa.<br /> <br /> You can pay the fee by Visa, MasterCard, Money Order, Cashier's Check or Company Check. ''Cash or Personal checks are not acceptable.''<br /> <br /> To get a visa, you can go to your local Chinese consulate. No appointment is required. You go in one day, and it will be ready for pick up 4 business days later. My experience is that it takes about an hour the first day, and takes only a few minutes to pick up the visa a few days later. (2 to 3 business-day and 1 business day/same-day express service is available for $20 or $30.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''NOTE: The Chinese consulates are all closed for Chinese holidays! Please check the dates! For 2018 these dates are: 1-January, 15-January, 15-16 February, 28-May, 19-June, 4-July, 3-September, 1-October, 8-October, 12-November, 22-23 November, and 24-25-December:&lt;br&gt;<br /> [https://www.travelchinaguide.com/embassy/us/sanfrancisco.htm 2018 San Francisco Chinese Consulate Holiday Schedule]''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> (Citizens of US and Europe ''do not'' need a separate visa for Hong Kong.)<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> = Previous Noisebridge China Trips =<br /> ''If you're curious about the previous Noisebridge China Trips, they have their own wiki pages:''&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;That first Noisebridge China Trip was inspired by Bunny Huang's [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/shenzhen/print &quot;geek tour&quot;].<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip2|Hacker Trip To China 2011]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip3|Hacker Trip to China 2013]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip4|Hacker Trip to China 2014]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip5|Hacker Trip to China 2015]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip6|Hacker Trip to China 2016]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip7|Hacker Trip to China 2017]]<br /> <br /> <br /> --[[user: maltman23 | Mitch]].<br /> <br /> = People interested in going on the Hacker Trip to China #8, 2018: =<br /> <br /> '''Below is a list of people interested in going on next year's Hacker Trip To China.'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;''If you are interested in joining this year's Trip, please enter your name in the table.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;<br /> '''PLEASE EMAIL ME after you enter your name in the table.'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;''mitch *AT* CornfieldElectronics *DOT* com''<br /> &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;<br /> '''You do not need to be a member of Noisebridge to go on this trip!'''<br /> &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Please email me if you have any questions, or if you would like to meet up with us on the trip:'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;''mitch *AT* CornfieldElectronics *DOT* com''<br /> <br /> The trip is limited to 20 people total (including Mitch)&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;-- the first 19 people (after Mitch) who are either there already, or who bought tickets to meet in Beijing (our Trip's starting city)&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;on or before 3-November-2018, are the people who are in this Trip.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;(This probably means flying away from your home airport on or before 2-November-2018.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:gray&quot;&gt;<br /> Note: Many people have gotten good deals on their plane fares (including me) with the help of my friend Vlad at:&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;[http://www.flystein.com/ Flystein]&lt;br&gt;Feel free to email me, and I'll send your email to Vlad, who will be happy to help you with your flights.<br /> &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> {| style=&quot;color:green; background-color:#ffffcc;&quot; cellpadding=&quot;10&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; border=&quot;1&quot;<br /> !<br /> ! Name<br /> ! Purchased flight?<br /> ! Flight info<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |[[user: maltman23 | Mitch Altman]] (Noisebridge, San Francisco, USA)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 27-Oct, 2:20pm, UA888, SFO-PEK<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Paul Hamilton [http://www.swmakers.org/](SW Makers, Australia)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 25th Oct, 2:40pm<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Diane Hamilton [http://www.swmakers.org/](SW Makers, Australia)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 25th Oct, 2:40pm<br /> |-<br /> |4<br /> |[[user: marlus | Marlus Araujo]] [http://marlus.com](Rio de Janeiro, Brasil)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 3rd Nov, 11:40am<br /> |-<br /> |5<br /> |[[user: alxd | Pawel Ngei]] (Global Innovation Gathering, Poland)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 27th Oct, 11:55am<br /> |-<br /> |6<br /> |Star (Global Innovation Gathering, Poland / Kenya)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 27th Oct, 11:55am<br /> |-<br /> |7<br /> |Pan (Limassol Hackerspace, Cyprus)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |8<br /> |T Vishwarath Reddy (Labyrinth Tech, Bangalore)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |9<br /> |Dimi[http://www.facebook.com/dimitriLH] (Limassol Hackerspace, Cyprus)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |10<br /> |Mark Hellar (Hellar Studios)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |11<br /> |Keir Winesmith (SFMOMA)&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |12<br /> |Jay Mollica (SFMOMA)&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |13<br /> |Alex C.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |14<br /> |[[user: drudru | Dru Nelson]] (Redwood City)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |15<br /> |Rita Wu&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |16<br /> |Bruno Rafael Aricó&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |17<br /> |Eduardo Padilha&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |18<br /> |Fernanda Monteiro Lopes&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |19<br /> |Gloria <br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |20<br /> |''your name here''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |21<br /> |<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |22<br /> |Mayank Malik<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |23<br /> |Yana - Foreign Eye<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |24<br /> |Felix (Germany)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |25<br /> |Max (Germany)&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |26<br /> ||[[user: cel | Charles Lehner]] (Sudo Room)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |27<br /> |Adrian Kelly (Noisebridge)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|YES<br /> |Arrive: 2-Nov 11:45 PM, China Eastern 590 SFO-PVG, 5186 PVG-PEK<br /> |-<br /> |28<br /> |Michal Stefanow[https://MichalStefanow.com] (astralship, UK, Poland)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |29<br /> |Leandra Tejedor<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |30<br /> |Olivier de Saint-Hubert<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |31<br /> |Martin Bähr&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: already in china<br /> |-<br /> |32<br /> |John Kunnath<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''-- PLEASE EMAIL ME'''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |33<br /> |Dan Royer<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |34<br /> |Eitan Rieger<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD <br /> |-<br /> |35<br /> |Michelle Lai<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |36<br /> |Sreejith Mohanan<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |37<br /> |''Audrey Lim''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |38<br /> |''your name here''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |39<br /> |''your name here''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |40<br /> |''your name here''<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category:Travel]]<br /> [[Category:Projects]]</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Surface_Mount_Assembly&diff=66326 2018-05-30T22:17:32Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>Let's assemble boards in volume!<br /> <br /> == Solder Paste Stencils ==<br /> The laser cutter can cut Mylar or Kapton sheets into stencils for spreading solder paste onto a board. 4-5 mil thickness is pretty common, but for really fine pitch parts you want a thinner stencil. [https://learn.adafruit.com/smt-manufacturing/laser-cut-stencils Adafruit says they use 2 mil Kapton] from [https://www.mcmaster.com/#2271K2 McMaster] but [https://www.ebay.com/p/3M-PP2200-Plain-Paper-Copier-Transparency-Film/691282785 Mylar (3M PP2200 4 mil transparency film) is about 100x cheaper], but melts instead of burns, leaving a slightly worse result, and has the potential for the cut pieces to stick back to themselves.<br /> <br /> In KiCAD, you export a DXF of the solder paste layer using the File &gt; Plot tool:<br /> <br /> [[File:Kicad_Solder_Paste_DXF_Settings.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> Import that into RDWorks, then do a kerf compensation to shrink all the pads. [http://www.qualiecocircuits.co.nz/stencil-technology-other-aspects.htm The finer the pitch component, the more kerf compensation you need in order to leave a reasonable amount of material between two adjacent pads.] Adafruit recommends 2 mil.<br /> <br /> Either cutting or scanning will work. If you use the scan mode like Adafruit or [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyB-01p7AtI Felix Rusu], there is no chad left. [http://www.juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ Juan Chong] uses two sheets of Mylar, and only cuts through the top sheet, so that the chads stick to the bottom sheet.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Thickness<br /> ! Cut Style<br /> ! Speed (mm/s)<br /> ! Scan Interval<br /> ! Min Power<br /> ! Max Power<br /> |-<br /> | Kapton<br /> | 5 mil<br /> | Scan<br /> | 200<br /> | 0.05mm<br /> | 20<br /> | 20<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Once your stencil is cut, line it up on the board, tape it down and use a credit card or flexible metal paint scraper to spread the paste across the stencil. [https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/58 Read Sparkfun's tutorial.] If you're doing multiple boards, you can cut the outline of your board in 1/16&quot; acrylic, line up the stencil and then tape the stencil to the acrylic on one side, so that you don't have to line up the stencil every time.<br /> <br /> == Pick and Place ==<br /> <br /> We have a Liteplacer! Roy was working on installing the software. If you're only making a couple boards, placing the components by hand with tweezers is faster.<br /> <br /> == Infrared Reflow Oven ==<br /> <br /> We also have two reflow ovens! One of them has aftermarket firmware flashed to it. You can do custom temperature curves!</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Surface_Mount_Assembly&diff=66325 2018-05-30T22:16:12Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>Let's assemble boards in volume!<br /> <br /> == Solder Paste Stencils ==<br /> The laser cutter can cut Mylar or Kapton sheets into stencils for spreading solder paste onto a board. 4-5 mil thickness is pretty common, but for really fine pitch parts you want a thinner stencil. [https://learn.adafruit.com/smt-manufacturing/laser-cut-stencils Adafruit says they use 2 mil Kapton] from [https://www.mcmaster.com/#2271K2 McMaster] but [https://www.ebay.com/p/3M-PP2200-Plain-Paper-Copier-Transparency-Film/691282785 Mylar (3M PP2200 4 mil transparency film) is about 100x cheaper], but melts instead of burns, leaving a slightly worse result, and has the potential for the cut pieces to stick back to themselves.<br /> <br /> In KiCAD, you export a DXF of the solder paste layer using the File &gt; Plot tool:<br /> <br /> [[File:Kicad_Solder_Paste_DXF_Settings.JPG|400px]]<br /> <br /> Import that into RDWorks, then do a kerf compensation to shrink all the pads. [http://www.qualiecocircuits.co.nz/stencil-technology-other-aspects.htm The finer the pitch component, the more kerf compensation you need in order to leave a reasonable amount of material between two adjacent pads.] Adafruit recommends 2 mil.<br /> <br /> Either cutting or scanning will work. If you use the scan mode like Adafruit or [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyB-01p7AtI Felix Rusu], there is no chad left. [http://www.juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ Juan Chong] uses two sheets of Mylar, and only cuts through the top sheet, so that the chads stick to the bottom sheet.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Thickness<br /> ! Cut Style<br /> ! Speed (mm/s)<br /> ! Scan Interval<br /> ! Min Power<br /> ! Max Power<br /> |-<br /> | Kapton<br /> | 5 mil<br /> | Scan<br /> | 200<br /> | 0.05mm<br /> | 20<br /> | 20<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Once your stencil is cut, line it up on the board, tape it down and use a credit card or flexible metal paint scraper to spread the paste across the stencil. [https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/58 Read Sparkfun's tutorial.] If you're doing multiple boards, you can cut the outline of your board in 1/16&quot; acrylic, line up the stencil and then tape the stencil to the acrylic on one side, so that you don't have to line up the stencil every time.<br /> <br /> == Pick and Place ==<br /> <br /> We have a Liteplacer! Roy was working on installing the software. If you're only making a couple boards, placing the components by hand with tweezers is faster.<br /> <br /> == Infrared Reflow Oven ==<br /> <br /> We also have two reflow ovens! One of them has aftermarket firmware flashed to it. You can do custom temperature curves!<br /> <br /> == Hot Air Station ==<br /> <br /> Generally only used for rework and repair, use the oven for initial assembly</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Surface_Mount_Assembly&diff=66324 2018-05-30T22:14:51Z

<p>Akelly: Created page with &quot;Let&#039;s assemble boards in volume! == Solder Paste Stencils == The laser cutter can cut Mylar or Kapton sheets into stencils for spreading solder paste onto a board. 4-5 mil th...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Let's assemble boards in volume!<br /> <br /> == Solder Paste Stencils ==<br /> The laser cutter can cut Mylar or Kapton sheets into stencils for spreading solder paste onto a board. 4-5 mil thickness is pretty common, but for really fine pitch parts you want a thinner stencil. [https://learn.adafruit.com/smt-manufacturing/laser-cut-stencils Adafruit says they use 2 mil Kapton] from [https://www.mcmaster.com/#2271K2 McMaster] but [https://www.ebay.com/p/3M-PP2200-Plain-Paper-Copier-Transparency-Film/691282785 Mylar (3M PP2200 4 mil transparency film) is about 100x cheaper], but melts instead of burns, leaving a slightly worse result, and has the potential for the cut pieces to stick back to themselves.<br /> <br /> In KiCAD, you export a DXF of the solder paste layer using the File &gt; Plot tool:<br /> [[File:Kicad_Solder_Paste_DXF_Settings.JPG]]<br /> <br /> Import that into RDWorks, then do a kerf compensation to shrink all the pads. [http://www.qualiecocircuits.co.nz/stencil-technology-other-aspects.htm The finer the pitch component, the more kerf compensation you need in order to leave a reasonable amount of material between two adjacent pads.] Adafruit recommends 2 mil.<br /> <br /> Either cutting or scanning will work. If you use the scan mode like Adafruit or [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyB-01p7AtI Felix Rusu], there is no chad left. [http://www.juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ Juan Chong] uses two sheets of Mylar, and only cuts through the top sheet, so that the chads stick to the bottom sheet.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Thickness<br /> ! Cut Style<br /> ! Speed (mm/s)<br /> ! Scan Interval<br /> ! Min Power<br /> ! Max Power<br /> |-<br /> | Kapton<br /> | 5 mil<br /> | Scan<br /> | 200<br /> | 0.05mm<br /> | 20<br /> | 20<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Once your stencil is cut, line it up on the board, tape it down and use a credit card or flexible metal paint scraper to spread the paste across the stencil. [https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/58 Read Sparkfun's tutorial.] If you're doing multiple boards, you can cut the outline of your board in 1/16&quot; acrylic, line up the stencil and then tape the stencil to the acrylic on one side, so that you don't have to line up the stencil every time.<br /> <br /> == Pick and Place ==<br /> <br /> We have a Liteplacer! Roy was working on installing the software. If you're only making a couple boards, placing the components by hand with tweezers is faster.<br /> <br /> == Infrared Reflow Oven ==<br /> <br /> We also have two reflow ovens! One of them has aftermarket firmware flashed to it. You can do custom temperature curves!<br /> <br /> == Hot Air Station ==<br /> <br /> Generally only used for rework and repair, use the oven for initial assembly</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=File:Kicad_Solder_Paste_DXF_Settings.JPG&diff=66321 2018-05-30T21:19:56Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=66307 2018-05-29T09:44:57Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> * Matt Weinstein (no slack yet)<br /> * Karly Bryerman (no slack yet)<br /> * Santi (no slack yet)<br /> * vsgoliath (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Apthorp (no slack)<br /> * Irene Pro (no slack)<br /> * Tim Tarbill (no slack)<br /> * Jean Rintoul (no slack)<br /> * Yasin Shuman (no slack)<br /> * Sasha David (no slack)<br /> * Gustavo ()<br /> * Rick Brutsaert (no slack)<br /> * Nyx (no slack)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 75 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 40% min power, pieces don't stick to the sheet like they do at the settings above<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.024&quot; thick, black || || || 80 || 50 || || || || 50% max power, 30% min power. Not all cuts fall free, but increasing power/decreasing speed doesn't help, just makes more white powder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5MB2JK/<br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.040&quot; thick, black || || || 50 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 30% min power. Remove clear protective sheet before cutting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WCZD1LZ/<br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || || <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> |-<br /> | Kapton Sheet 0.005&quot; || 200 || 20 || || || || || || For solder paste stencils I scan at 200mm/s, 20% power, 0.05mm interval. 30% power and 0.1mm interval is faster, but slightly less clean results<br /> |-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=66306 2018-05-29T09:43:10Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> * Matt Weinstein (no slack yet)<br /> * Karly Bryerman (no slack yet)<br /> * Santi (no slack yet)<br /> * vsgoliath (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Apthorp (no slack)<br /> * Irene Pro (no slack)<br /> * Tim Tarbill (no slack)<br /> * Jean Rintoul (no slack)<br /> * Yasin Shuman (no slack)<br /> * Sasha David (no slack)<br /> * Gustavo ()<br /> * Rick Brutsaert (no slack)<br /> * Nyx (no slack)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 75 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 40% min power, pieces don't stick to the sheet like they do at the settings above<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.024&quot; thick, black || || || 80 || 50 || || || || 50% max power, 30% min power. Not all cuts fall free, but increasing power/decreasing speed doesn't help, just makes more white powder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5MB2JK/ |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.040&quot; thick, black || || || 50 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 30% min power. Remove clear protective sheet before cutting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WCZD1LZ/|-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || || |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again|-<br /> | Kapton Sheet 0.005&quot; || 200 || 20 || || || || || || For solder paste stencils I scan at 200mm/s, 20% power, 0.05mm interval. 30% power and 0.1mm interval is faster, but slightly less clean results|-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=66305 2018-05-29T08:53:47Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> * Matt Weinstein (no slack yet)<br /> * Karly Bryerman (no slack yet)<br /> * Santi (no slack yet)<br /> * vsgoliath (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Apthorp (no slack)<br /> * Irene Pro (no slack)<br /> * Tim Tarbill (no slack)<br /> * Jean Rintoul (no slack)<br /> * Yasin Shuman (no slack)<br /> * Sasha David (no slack)<br /> * Gustavo ()<br /> * Rick Brutsaert (no slack)<br /> * Nyx (no slack)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 75 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 40% min power, pieces don't stick to the sheet like they do at the settings above<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.024&quot; thick, black || || || 80 || 50 || || || || 50% max power, 30% min power. Not all cuts fall free, but increasing power/decreasing speed doesn't help, just makes more white powder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5MB2JK/<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.040&quot; thick, black || || || 50 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 30% min power. Remove clear protective sheet before cutting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WCZD1LZ/<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=66304 2018-05-29T08:53:01Z

<p>Akelly: Added 0.04&quot; Silicone</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> * Matt Weinstein (no slack yet)<br /> * Karly Bryerman (no slack yet)<br /> * Santi (no slack yet)<br /> * vsgoliath (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Apthorp (no slack)<br /> * Irene Pro (no slack)<br /> * Tim Tarbill (no slack)<br /> * Jean Rintoul (no slack)<br /> * Yasin Shuman (no slack)<br /> * Sasha David (no slack)<br /> * Gustavo ()<br /> * Rick Brutsaert (no slack)<br /> * Nyx (no slack)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 75 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 40% min power, pieces don't stick to the sheet like they do at the settings above<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.024&quot; thick, black || || || 80 || 50 || || || || 50% max power, 30% min power. Not all cuts fall free, but increasing power/decreasing speed doesn't help, just makes more white powder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5MB2JK/<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.040&quot; thick, black || || || 50 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 30% min power. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WCZD1LZ/<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=NoisebridgeChinaTrip8&diff=66230 2018-05-21T23:42:36Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>= NOISEBRIDGE HACKER TRIP TO CHINA #8&lt;br&gt;-- Start Date: TBD -- perhaps 27-October-2018, in [city TBD]&lt;br&gt;-- End Date: TBD -- perhaps 16-November-2018, in [city TBD]=<br /> <br /> [[File:HTTC2014WelcomeHackers.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #4 Welcome to China!, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:KungFuHacking_Nov_2013.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #3 Kung Fu Hacking: Hackers In Residence Kickoff event at Tsinghua University, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:petrochemical_university.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #2 Visit to Petrochemical Univeristy, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Beijing_Oct_2009.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #1 Jingshan Park, Beijing]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Shenzhen_Oct_2016.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #5 Visit to Seeed Studio's factory, Shenzhen]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Zhenzhou_Oct_2016.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #5 Presentations at Zhengzhou High School #2, Zhengzhou]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;It is looking likely that this year's Hacker Trip To China will be:&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''Start: 27-October-2018, in Beijing'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;'''End: 16-November-2018, in Hong Kong'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> == Previous Hacker Trips To China ==<br /> ::''This will be the 8th Noisebridge Hacker Trip To China.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::'''''(The dates are not set, the start and end cities are not set, and the itinerary will be an outline and open to change.)'''''<br /> ::''In previous years' Hacker Trips To China, we've visited cities that currently have a hackerspace, visited my manufacturer, Seeed Studio, and other manufacturers. We also visited Tsinghua University, considered the most prestigious university in China, and other schools -- all of which have now starting hackerspaces. China continues to explode with hackerspaces! We also went to the International Exhibition of Inventions Kunshan (IEIK 2014), near Shanghai. And everywhere we went, we were shown around by local geeks, to see what they thought was interesting where they live. Also, wherever we went, those of us interested gave talks, presentations, workshops, and demos. In 2016 we gave presentations at NY University - Shanghai, DFRobot (an open hardware company in Shanghai), Shanghai Maker Carnival, Zhengzhou High School Number 2, &quot;Second Generation and Start-ups&quot; conference in Hangzhou.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ::''You can see info from the previous Trips:&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip2|Hacker Trip To China 2011]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip3|Hacker Trip To China 2013]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip4|Hacker Trip To China 2014]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip5|Hacker Trip To China 2015]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip6|Hacker Trip To China 2016]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip7|Hacker Trip To China 2017]]''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ::-- [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]].<br /> <br /> == This year's Hacker Trip To China ==<br /> '''When:''' [date TBD -- '''probably 27-Oct'''] in [city TBD -- '''probably Beijing''']&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;through&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;[date TBD -- '''probably 16-Nov'''] in [city TBD -- '''probably Hong Kong'''].<br /> <br /> '''Flight, transportation, and hotel Info''': We were each be on our own to book our own air fare to meet in our starting city, [city TBD], on [date TBD], and fly home from out ending city, [city TBD], on [date TBD]. Of course, you can decide to come and go as you please.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> I'll organized the itinerary and the hotels and other transport. I'll pay in advance for some of this, and you can pay me back when we're in China.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Where:''' In each of the cities we will go to, we'll visit some of their local hackerspace(s), and will be shown around by local geeks to see what interested them where they live. We'll also have plenty of time to do &quot;normal&quot; (and spectacular) tourist things too!&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''NOTE THAT THE INFO BELOW IS FROM LAST YEAR'S HTTC:'''&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Here's some possible places we might visit, leaving plenty of room for the serendipity that makes our Hacker Trip To China truly unique and memorable:'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> * We will start our trip by meeting in &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Hong Kong'''&lt;/span&gt; and visit [http://www.dimsumlabs.com/ Dim Sum Labs] hackerspace. Hong Kong is a fantastic city, so, we'll also see lots of other cool stuff in Hong Kong. [[Hong Kong Guide]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> * Then we'll go across the border to mainland China again, to &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Shenzhen'''&lt;/span&gt; to visit [http://www.chaihuo.org/ Chaihuo Makerspace], [http://www.szdiy.org/ SZDIY] hackerspace, [http://litchee.cn/en/ Litchee Lab], and a few other hackerspaces, some of which are real, and hundreds of which are brand new (this year) over-the-top bizarre government-started places where they want to create &quot;the next Apple&quot; (we won't visit them all!). We'll visit [http://www.chaihuo.org/xfactory/ x.factory] while we are in town, an interesting mix of hackerspace and incubator, where we will be welcomed for a Bring-A-Hack event, where anyone of us (for those who want to), along with the general public, can show off their projects. We will also visit [http://www.seeedstudio.com Seeed Studio] - the open source hardware company - to meet the cool folks there and to see their manufacturing facilities. We may meet with the founders of [http://dangerousprototypes.com/ Dangerous Prototypes] - another open source hardware company. We'll also visit other manufacturers, to see where all the things we use in our daily lives come from (such as springs, cables, PCBs, packaging, etc., etc.). We can also visit Dorabot, a Chinese robotics company comprised of people in the Shenzhen hackerspace scene. Of course, we'll also visit the famous (and totally awesome!) [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/shenzhen/print Huaqiangbei electronics market] in Shenzhen (where, we may again be shown around by a professional buyer from Deal Extreme (dx.com). And if uhgall@gmail.com happens to be in town, we might visit [http://www.constellation.ws/ Constellation] or even stay in their factory dorm. &lt;br&gt;<br /> * We will then make our way to &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Beijing'''&lt;/span&gt; where we may visit [http://www.bjmakerspace.com/ Beijing Makerspace], and other hackerspaces. We'll also visit Tsinghua University, where they built the world's largest hackerspace last year (called the &quot;iCenter&quot;), and where I've been hacker in residence. Beijing has lots and lots of way amazing stuff to visit and be a part of!<br /> * Our last city will be &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''Shanghai'''&lt;/span&gt;. In Shanghai we will visit [http://www.etonnet.com/ my manufacturer (Etonnet)] that I have used for [http://www.tvbgone.com TV-B-Gone] remote controls and [http://www.neurodreamer.com NeuroDreamer] sleep masks, where we will all get to see how products are made, from start to finish, learning how manufacturing works. We will also visit [http://xinchejian.com/ XinCheJian] hackerspace in Shanghai. We can also visit companies started by hardware hacker geeks, such as [http://www.dfrobot.com/ DFRobot]. We can visit Phicomm, a medium-sized OEM manufacturer. We can also visit the [http://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/4064240200/in/set-72157622640069902/ Shanghai electronics mall] (a smaller version of the famous electronics mall we will later visit in Shenzhen). <br /> <br /> For most of us, our trip will end at the end of three weeks, as many people on our trip will fly home from our last city, [city TBD], on [date TBD].<br /> <br /> ''Of course, everyone is free to arrive and leave whenever you like for the Hacker Trip To China.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Cost:''' For the Hacker Trip To China 2017, I paid $2,656 total (for 4 weeks), including air fare from SF, food, lodging, transportation, a new smart phone, a bunch of new clothing, and everything.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''As in past years, part of this year's trip may be paid for by Tsinghua University and other hosts that invite us to give presentations.''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''#hashtag:''' [https://twitter.com/hashtag/httc2018 #httc2018] &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;(Hacker Trip To China 2018)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Itinerary outline for Hacker Trip to China 8 ==<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;'''NOTE: THE FOLLOWING INFO IS FROM LAST YEAR'S HTTC'''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The start and end dates are set, the start and end cities are set, but the rest of the itinerary is open to serendipity:'''<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''7-October-2017 -- '''Leave home''' for '''Hong Kong''' (arrive in Hong Kong on 8-October)''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:fuchsia&quot;&gt;''8-October-2017 -- We all meet in '''Hong Kong''' -- hotel: various in Tsim Sha Tsui&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''8-October to 11-October -- Hong Kong'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> 8-October, 8pm: Group dinner, TST<br /> 9-October, 12pm: Walk around with William Liang (Maker Hive, escalators, snacks)<br /> 9-October, 3pm-4pm: Veggie Sushi(!) in Prince Edwards (104 Lai Chi Kok Road)<br /> 9-October, 4:30pm: visit Looking Glass (startup that makes 3D video)<br /> 9-October, 6pm-8:30pm: visit [http://www.makerbay.org Maker Bay, Yau Tong], with presentations<br /> 9-October, 10pm-, Wan Chai drinks<br /> 10-October, 10am-3pm: Free time sightseeing Prince Edwards<br /> (Temple Street Tin Hau Temple, Women Market, Bird Garden, Gold Fish market)<br /> 10-October, 3pm-5pm: Dim Sum (walk from Prince): Tim Ho Wan in Sham Shui Po<br /> 10-October, 5pm-7pm: Apliu Street Flea market, Spycams, Golden Computer center<br /> 10-October, 8pm-10pm: visit [http://www.dimsumlabs.com/ Dim Sum Labs], soldering workshop by Mitch, HackJam on rooftop<br /> 10-October, 12pm: LKF - Lan Kwai Fong bars<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''11-October, afternoon -- ferry or subway to Shenzhen''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''11-October to 16-October -- Shenzhen'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:fuchsia&quot;&gt;''11-October -- hotel: Jinjiang Inn Shenzhen Huaqiang North''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> 11-October, 8pm: Group Dinner at Yunlaiju Vegetarian Restaurant<br /> 12-October, 10am-12pm: Product Life Cycle class at NOA Labs<br /> 12-October, 1pm-5pm: tour of Huaqiangbei (electronics markets) w/ Scotty (of Strange Parts), and others<br /> 12-October, afternoon: visit Troublemaker hackerspaces in Huaqianbei<br /> 12-October, 6:30pm: meetup at HAX -- Mitch gives presentation what worked (and didn't work) well with his TV-B-Gone startup -- others welcome to give presentations on their startup dos and don't-dos<br /> 13-October, 8am: leave hotel for visit to Seeed Studio AMC and factory tours (two separate groups)<br /> 13-October: Group A factory tour: Seeed Studio AMC, Zealfull (PCB), Jercio (LED), Honpe (plastic injection molding) <br /> 13-October: Group B factory tour: Seeed Studio AMC, Ashcloud (packing), King Brother (PCB), AMC (plastic injection molding)<br /> 13-October: 7pm: return to hotel from tour of factories (two separate groups)<br /> 14-October, 2pm: visit Dorabot (open hardware robot company) <br /> 14-October, 6pm-8pm: visit Lab 0x0 -- give demos! <br /> 15-October, 4pm-6pm: Chaihuo x.factory Bring-A-Hack<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''16-October, 10:00am -- train G822 to Xi'an''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''16-October to 19-October -- Xi'an'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:fuchsia&quot;&gt;''16-October -- hotel: Vienna Hotel''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> 17-October, 9am-5pm: ShaanXi Makerspace tour and presentations<br /> 17-October, 5pm-8pm: special dinner<br /> 18-October, 8:30am-10am: Xi'an Innovation and Design Center Maker's Symposium<br /> 18-October, 10am-8pm: Xi'an traditional maker and culture hands-on tour<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''19-October, 12:42pm -- train G658 to Beijing''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''19-October to 24-October -- Beijing'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:fuchsia&quot;&gt;''19-October -- hotel: various: in hutongs NE of Jinshan Park''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> 20-October, 1:30pm: Tsinghua University iCenter<br /> 21-October, 12pm: art galleries and 798 with Gloria<br /> 23-October, 1:30pm: meet-and-greet with Tsinghua University students<br /> 23-October, 5pm: visit Makebator<br /> 23-October, 6pm-9pm: Beijing LUG dinner and meeting<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''24-October, 2:00pm -- train G3 to Shanghai''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;&lt;font size=&quot;3&quot;&gt;'''24-October to 28-October -- Shanghai'''&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt; ''<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:fuchsia&quot;&gt;''24-October -- hotel: Le Tour Traveler's Rest International Youth Hostel''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> 25-October, 3pm-4pm: [Messed this up by going to the wrong NYU campus] meet-and-greet at Interactive Media Arts (IMA) at NYU Shanghai<br /> 26-October, morning: visit Yagr/Etonnet (Mitch's manufacturer)<br /> 26-October, evening: DFRobot/Mushroom Cloud visit and presentations<br /> 27-October, 7pm-9pm: XinCheJian Global Forum -- presentations by 13 if us<br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:orange&quot;&gt;''28-October-2017 -- '''fly home''' (arrive NA or EU on same day)''&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> == Very Useful Guide about Internet, Phones, Translation, and Navigation ==<br /> One of the two Noah's who were on the HTTC2017 wrote [[Noahs_Guide|this very useful guide]]!<br /> <br /> == Hong Kong Guide ==<br /> [[Hong Kong Guide]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip To China 2017==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2017HongKong.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Shenzhen.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Xian.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Beijing.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Shanghai.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2017Beijing2.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157665928352469/ Hong Kong, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157665929390189/ Shenzhen, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157688052606231/ Xi'an, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157688052837801/ Beijing, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157687009709482/ Shanghai, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157688893716634/ Beijing Set 2, Oct-2017]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157665931188619/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2017 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip To China 2016==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2016Shanghai.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Zhenzhou.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Shenzhen.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Beijing.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Hangzhou.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2016Beijing2.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157672475058474/ Shanghai, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157674645655612/ Zhengzhou, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676024748146/ Shenzhen, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676142107066/ Beijing, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676144570756/ Hangzhou, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157672603805234/ Beijing Set 2, Oct-2016]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157674928976010/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2016 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip to China 2015==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2015HongKongNeon.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015ShenzhenFactory.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015ShanghaiTempleMall.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015BeijingDoor.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015HangzhouTemple.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015BeijingShop.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2015SuzhouUmbrellas.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157659076735178 Hong Kong, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157660026965949 Shenzhen, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157660038275888 Shanghai, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157658114137264 Beijing, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157660424228042 YiWu &amp; Hangzhou, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157660650175925 Beijing Set 2, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157658310336814 Shanghai &amp; Suzhou, Oct-2015]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157660374807166/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2015 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [https://picasaweb.google.com/dtharn/ChinaInOctober2015?feat=directlink Dave's photos]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blake's photos:<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/sets/72157662429341996 Hong Kong!]<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157660150285384 Shenzen!]<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157661790873029 Shanghai!]<br /> * [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157660153522904 Beijing!]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Torrey's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/gp/torrey/Q840rT Hong Kong]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Torrey's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/gp/torrey/yLo903 Shenzhen]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Torrey's photos from [https://flic.kr/s/aHskqNiQeX Beijing]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Torrey's photos from [https://flic.kr/s/aHskrE55NX Shanghai]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == Photos from Hacker Trip to China 2014==<br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> File:HTTC2014WelcomeHackers.jpg<br /> File:HTTC20143Nod_b.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014AiWeiWei.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014BeijingLGBTcentre.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Brooms.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014CableFactory.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014ChaiHuo.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014GiantSewing.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Huaqianbei.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014IEIK2014.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014SeeedStudio.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Shanghai.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Tianjin.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014Tienanmen.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014TrainConvenienceStore.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014TsinghuaMakersDay.jpg<br /> File:HTTC20143Nod.jpg<br /> File:HTTC2014XinCheJian.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157646894397704/ Beijing, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157648975298719/ Shanghai, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157648981933060/ Shenzhen, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649396351315/ Kunshan, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649148594118/ Shanghai (2), Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649146775640/ Beijing (2), Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649146987360/ Tianjin, Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157647372474753/ Beijing (3), Nov-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649287546450/ Singapore, Dec-2014]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;strong&gt;<br /> [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157649162773126/ Mitch's photos for HTTC 2014 all in one place]<br /> &lt;/strong&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> == You will Need a Chinese Visa!! ==<br /> To go to China, you needed to get a visa!<br /> <br /> Everyone should get a multiple-entry Tourist L visa (if you only get a single-entry visa, you'll be fine, but you won't have as many options, such as going in and out of Shenzhen to Hong Kong).<br /> <br /> * And to get a visa, you need to have a passport that is valid ''at least'' 12 months after you planned to fly away from China (so, e.g., if you are leaving China on 28-October-2017, then your passport needs to be valid through 27-October-2017). Your passport must also have at least ''one entirely blank page''.<br /> <br /> * You also need:<br /> ** a printout of a filled-out [http://www.china-embassy.org/eng/visas/fd/W020130830801798289342.pdf Visa Application Form V. 2013 of the People's Republic of China] (after we have everything we need I'll email you my filled out form as an example to follow).<br /> ** a copy of the information pages of your passport.<br /> ** a copy of your most Chinese visa (if you have been to China before).<br /> ** one 2&quot;x2&quot; recent color photo (not a printout).<br /> ** a screenshot or printout of hotel reservation confirmation (I'll email this to you when I have this).<br /> ** a copy of your airline tickets (both to and from China).<br /> <br /> * For US citizens, the visa cost $140 (much cheaper for other nationalities). Starting this year, US citizens can get a multiple-entry visa, good for 10 years. We should all apply for a Tourist L visa.<br /> <br /> You can pay the fee by Visa, MasterCard, Money Order, Cashier's Check or Company Check. ''Cash or Personal checks are not acceptable.''<br /> <br /> To get a visa, you can go to your local Chinese consulate. No appointment is required. You go in one day, and it will be ready for pick up 4 business days later. My experience is that it takes about an hour the first day, and takes only a few minutes to pick up the visa a few days later. (2 to 3 business-day and 1 business day/same-day express service is available for $20 or $30.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''NOTE: The Chinese consulates are all closed for Chinese holidays! Please check the dates! For 2017 these dates were: 27-30 January, 29-30 May, 30-May, 9-June, 4-July, 4-September, 2-October, 9-October and other dates:&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.chinaconsulatesf.org/eng/lszj/t1424287.htm 2017 Chinese Consulate Holiday Schedule]''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> (Citizens of US and Europe ''do not'' need a separate visa for Hong Kong.)<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> = Previous Noisebridge China Trips =<br /> ''If you're curious about the previous Noisebridge China Trips, they have their own wiki pages:''&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;That first Noisebridge China Trip was inspired by Bunny Huang's [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/shenzhen/print &quot;geek tour&quot;].<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip2|Hacker Trip To China 2011]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip3|Hacker Trip to China 2013]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip4|Hacker Trip to China 2014]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip5|Hacker Trip to China 2015]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip6|Hacker Trip to China 2016]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[NoisebridgeChinaTrip7|Hacker Trip to China 2017]]<br /> <br /> <br /> --[[user: maltman23 | Mitch]].<br /> <br /> = People interested in going on the Hacker Trip to China #8, 2018: =<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:red&quot;&gt;<br /> '''Below is a list of people interested in going on next year's Hacker Trip To China.'''<br /> &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:green&quot;&gt;<br /> '''You do not need to be a member of Noisebridge to go on this trip!'''<br /> &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Please email me if you have any questions, or if you would like to meet up with us on the trip:'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''mitch *AT* CornfieldElectronics *DOT* com''<br /> <br /> The trip is limited to 20 people total (including Mitch)&lt;br&gt;<br /> -- the first 19 people (after Mitch) who are either there already, or who bought tickets to meet in our Trip's starting city (TBD) on or before [date TBD] are the people who are in this Trip&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;(which probably means flying away from home on or before [date TBD minus one day]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;span style=&quot;color:gray&quot;&gt;<br /> Note: Many people have gotten good deals on their plane fares (including me) with the help of my friend Vlad at:&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;[http://www.flystein.com/ Flystein]&lt;br&gt;Feel free to email me, and I'll send your email to Vlad, who will be happy to help you with your flights.<br /> &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> {| style=&quot;color:green; background-color:#ffffcc;&quot; cellpadding=&quot;10&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; border=&quot;1&quot;<br /> !<br /> ! Name<br /> ! Purchased flight?<br /> ! Flight info<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |[[user: maltman23 | Mitch Altman]] (Noisebridge, San Francisco, USA)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |''Pan (Limassol Hackerspace, Cyprus)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |[[user: alxd | Pawel Ngei]] (Global Innovation Gathering, Poland)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |4<br /> |Star (Global Innovation Gathering, Poland / Kenya)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |5<br /> |T Vishwarath Reddy (Labyrinth Tech, Bangalore)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |6<br /> |Dimi[http://www.facebook.com/dimitriLH] (Limassol Hackerspace, Cyprus)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |7<br /> |''Mark Hellar (Hellar Studios)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD'<br /> |-<br /> |8<br /> |''Keir Winesmith (SFMOMA)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |9<br /> |''Jay Mollica (SFMOMA)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: 'TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |10<br /> |''Alex C.<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |11<br /> |[[user: drudru | Dru Nelson]] (Redwood City)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |12<br /> |''Rita Wu<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |13<br /> |''Bruno Rafael Aricó<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |14<br /> |''Eduardo Padilha<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |15<br /> |''Fernanda Monteiro Lopes<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |16<br /> |Gloria <br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |17<br /> |''Paul Hamilton<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |18<br /> |''Diane Hamilton<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |19<br /> |''Daniel Armstrong<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |20<br /> |''Freeman Murray<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |21<br /> |''Mayank Malik<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |22<br /> |''Yana - Foreign Eye<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |23<br /> |''Felix (Germany)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TBD''<br /> |-<br /> |24<br /> |''Max (Germany)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''TDB''<br /> |-<br /> |25<br /> |''|[[user: cel | Charles Lehner]] (Sudo Room)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |26<br /> |[[user: marlus | Marlus Araujo]] (Rio de Janeiro, Brasil)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |27<br /> |Adrian Kelly (Noisebridge)<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: TBD<br /> |-<br /> |28<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |29<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |30<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |31<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |32<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |33<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |34<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |35<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |36<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |37<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |38<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |39<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |-<br /> |40<br /> |''your name here<br /> |align=&quot;center&quot;|no<br /> |Arrive: ''your arrival info here''<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category:Travel]]<br /> [[Category:Projects]]</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=66130 2018-05-18T17:26:16Z

<p>Akelly: Added black silicone sheet</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> * Matt Weinstein (no slack yet)<br /> * Karly Bryerman (no slack yet)<br /> * Santi (no slack yet)<br /> * vsgoliath (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Apthorp (no slack)<br /> * Irene Pro (no slack)<br /> * Tim Tarbill (no slack)<br /> * Jean Rintoul (no slack)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 75 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 40% min power, pieces don't stick to the sheet like they do at the settings above<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone Sheet, 0.024&quot; thick, black || || || 80 || 50 || || || || 50% max power, 30% min power. Not all cuts fall free, but increasing power/decreasing speed doesn't help, just makes more white powder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5MB2JK/<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=66023 2018-05-08T07:32:08Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> * Matt Weinstein (no slack yet)<br /> * Karly Bryerman (no slack yet)<br /> * Santi (no slack yet)<br /> * vsgoliath (no slack yet)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 75 || 55 || || || || 55% max power, 40% min power, pieces don't stick to the sheet like they do at the settings above<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=65930 2018-04-21T10:35:13Z

<p>Akelly: Polystyrene formatting</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Clear Polystyrene (1mm) (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=65929 2018-04-21T10:33:36Z

<p>Akelly: Added Polystyrene</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> * Trent (@robbintt on slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq on slack)<br /> * Roy (@rizend on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * lemuel haham (no slack)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * John Foote (@rrmutt)<br /> * Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br /> * Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br /> * David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br /> * Sigma (no slack)<br /> * Steve Young (@fineline)<br /> * Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)<br /> * Ryan (slack tbd)<br /> * J (@j)<br /> * Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)<br /> * Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)<br /> * Olivier (@olivier)<br /> * Juan (@jclavijo)<br /> * Dany Q (@danyq) - Trainer<br /> * Andres Polit<br /> * Edward (@edwardlui531)<br /> * Ely Rodriguez<br /> * Devan Mitchell<br /> * Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)<br /> * Jeff Tchang (@tachang)<br /> * @jslack<br /> * AndyMC (@signal)<br /> * Mohammed (@mohammed)<br /> * Chris (@chris)<br /> * Joanna Ma (no slack)<br /> * Tim Walsh (@classictim)<br /> * David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)<br /> * Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)<br /> * Steven Wilcox (no slack)<br /> * Robby Nevels (@robz)<br /> * Douglas (@greenshoos)<br /> * Yuki (@yukims19)<br /> * Sean Grove (@sgrove)<br /> * Vicky (@vickydee)<br /> * Jason (@redconfetti)<br /> * William Brown (no slack)<br /> * Joe Grasser (no slack)<br /> * Jenny Liu (no slack)<br /> * Amber Zertuche (no slack)<br /> * Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)<br /> * Renana Horesh (no slack)<br /> * Jonathan Friedman (no slack)<br /> * Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)<br /> * Yotam Daniel (no slack)<br /> * Karin Levi (no slack)<br /> * Drew Skillman (no slack)<br /> * Nick Hohman (@nohman)<br /> * Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)<br /> * Albert Tien (no slack)<br /> * Michaela Carmein (no slack)<br /> * Kadir Barry (no slack)<br /> * Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)<br /> * Lilah Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Kitty (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro &quot;Alex&quot; Leyva (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Tranovich (no slack)<br /> * Asya (@asyalit)<br /> * Barakah (no slack)<br /> * Manny (no slack)<br /> * Vera Dikoun (no slack)<br /> * Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)<br /> * Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)<br /> * Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)<br /> * Ethan Ep (no slack)<br /> * Akihiko Satoda (no slack)<br /> * Kevin Morris (no slack)<br /> * Drew Erny (@dperny)<br /> * Alex Ray (no slack)<br /> * Dave Walker (no slack)<br /> * Mitch Altman (@maltman23)<br /> * Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)<br /> * Kai Habermann (no slack)<br /> * Chris Gervang (no slack)<br /> * Ian Griggs (no slack)<br /> * Islam El-Ashi (no slack)<br /> * Parul Desai (no slack)<br /> * Emma Bahroos<br /> * Paul Velasquez (no slack)<br /> * Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)<br /> * Veli Mattila (no slack yet)<br /> * Conrad Schuman (no slack)<br /> * Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)<br /> * Rafael Send (no slack)<br /> * Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br /> * Tristan Horn (no slack)<br /> * Raymond Young (no slack)<br /> * Neil Bachers (no slack)<br /> * Charlie S (@Chaz)<br /> * Belinda (@belindamo)<br /> * Raneem (no slack)<br /> * Charlie E (no slack)<br /> * Dawn H (@dawn)<br /> * Trevor Lewellen (no slack)<br /> * Keyvan Shovir (no slack)<br /> * John Shen (no slack)<br /> * Calvin Rachuy (no slack)<br /> * Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)<br /> * Lizzie (@lizzie)<br /> * Marcos Oap (no slack)<br /> * Bob Stein (no slack)<br /> * Scott Albritton (@Scott - trainer)<br /> * Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)<br /> * Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)<br /> * Meeks Baker (no slack yet)<br /> * Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)<br /> * Stuart Mason (no slack)<br /> * Nathan Heidt (no slack)<br /> * Tracy Weiss (no slack)<br /> * Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)<br /> * Lizzy A (no slack yet)<br /> * SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)<br /> * Dan Lipsitt<br /> * Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)<br /> * Terence Goldberg (no slack)<br /> * Dan Cooper (no slack)<br /> * LUS KA<br /> * Noah Swartz<br /> * Danielle Baskin<br /> * Jervon Graves<br /> * Rachel Fong (@rfong)<br /> * Blake Griffith<br /> * Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)<br /> * Leslie Mueller (no slack)<br /> * Allison (no slack)<br /> * Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)<br /> * Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)<br /> * Mike Roderick (no slack)<br /> * hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)<br /> * Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)<br /> * lloyd pollock(no slack)<br /> * Edward Shively (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Morris (no slack)<br /> * Rae Parnmukh (no slack)<br /> * Joe Kniss (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Garcia (no slack)<br /> * Nanu (no slack)<br /> * Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)<br /> * Warren Cheng (no slack)<br /> * Dot Richards (no slack)<br /> * Alexander Lin (no slack)<br /> * Melanie Day (no slack)<br /> * Tara Brooks (no slack)<br /> * Sam Lanning (@sam)<br /> * Manish (@manishearth)<br /> * Shane Lillya (no slack)<br /> * Jason Yosinski (no slack)<br /> * Chetan Verma (no slack)<br /> * Eyal Aklimi (no stack)<br /> * Chloe Revery (no slack)<br /> * Eran Rundstein (no slack)<br /> * Tommy Payne (no slack) <br /> * Luke Daenen (no shlack)<br /> * Quintessa (@super.lucky)<br /> * Haddox (no slack)<br /> * Chris Venter (@chrisv)<br /> * Lady Red (@mcscope)<br /> * Ashley Mishoe (no slack)<br /> * Jan Neumann (no slack)<br /> * Frank Crooks (no slack)<br /> * Brittany Carrico (no slack)<br /> *Joe Attokaren (joeat)<br /> * Jacob Powers (powersjcb)<br /> * Mark Willson (@mark)<br /> * Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)<br /> * Jessica Furst (no slack yet)<br /> * Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)<br /> * Clayton Lowell<br /> * Anastasia Victoria<br /> * Bruce Jahn<br /> * Wendy Qi (no slack)<br /> * Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Elaine Doyle (no slack)<br /> * Charley Walton (no slack)<br /> * Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)<br /> * James Lynch (no slack)<br /> * Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)<br /> * Michael Parisi (no slack)<br /> * Kynan Lalone (no slack)<br /> * Nick Fung (no slack)<br /> * Leah Bell (no slack)<br /> * Michael Micheletti (no slack)<br /> * A. Bulnes (no slack)<br /> * Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)<br /> * Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)<br /> * Natasha Lerman (no slack)<br /> * Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)<br /> * George (george_ashworth on irc)<br /> * TJ (no irc or slack)<br /> * Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)<br /> * Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)<br /> * Katya Radul (no slack)<br /> * Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)<br /> * Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)<br /> * Brahmi (no slack)<br /> * Chris Swimmer (no slack)<br /> * Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)<br /> * Dave Chan (@davechan1)<br /> * Alex Duesman (no slack)<br /> * Samantha (no slack)<br /> * Tom Nevin (no slack)<br /> * Elena Nadolinski (no slack)<br /> * Pamela Fox (no slack)<br /> * Noah Katz (no slack)<br /> * Heather Mason (no slack)<br /> * Sasha (@sasha)<br /> * Sida Li (no slack)<br /> * Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)<br /> * Merlin (no slack yet)<br /> * Yuriy Pestov (no slack)<br /> * Or Oppenheimer (no slack)<br /> * Chloe Ng (no slack)<br /> * Nicole Kim (no slack)<br /> * David Brooks (Slacker)<br /> * Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)<br /> * Natalya Robinson (no slack)<br /> * Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)<br /> * Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)<br /> * cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)<br /> * Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)<br /> * Alden Michaels (slackin)<br /> * Kate Rudolph (no slack)<br /> * Miguel Cervera (no slack)<br /> * Jeremiah Davis Brown<br /> * CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)<br /> * Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)<br /> * Theodore Hilk<br /> * Tien Yin Yau<br /> * Jess H<br /> * Av (@Av)<br /> * catthu<br /> * Michael Chang<br /> * Scott Coates<br /> * Rich Arakelian<br /> * Carl Roett (alchemist)<br /> * Peter Ross Wagner<br /> * Alexander Alshanetsky<br /> * Jay Zuerndorfer<br /> * Nobel Yoo<br /> * Andy Grosser<br /> * Zach<br /> * Erik Aylen<br /> * Brendan Clarke<br /> * Cinna Lee<br /> * Dora Chen<br /> * Tiana Chan<br /> * Duncan Cai<br /> * Christine Tran (@ctine)<br /> * Nicole Klau<br /> * John Brady (@johnb)<br /> * Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)<br /> * Max Chao<br /> * Dominic D<br /> * Troy Deck<br /> * Negash A Asegde<br /> * Kerrick Staley<br /> * Emily Abada (UCSF)<br /> * Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)<br /> * Jules C4<br /> * Sean Diamant<br /> * Jonathan Beri<br /> * Suyash Joshi<br /> * Nathan Leiby<br /> * Rolf<br /> * Tonny Buchari<br /> * Paddy O'Flynn<br /> * Eric Admati<br /> * eiais (@kyle)<br /> * Wesley (no slack)<br /> * Ben (@eenblam)<br /> * Tim Nemo<br /> * Shirley Miao<br /> * Mathew Kneebone<br /> * Kenrick Rilee<br /> * Matthew Hoe<br /> * Jehan Tremback<br /> * Kevin Prichard<br /> * Scott Marinoff<br /> * Kavya Seth<br /> * Aaliyah Saldajeno<br /> * Andrea Montejo<br /> * Cole (@colescott)<br /> * Osman (@kocosman)<br /> * Isis Lovecruft (@isis)<br /> * Tal (@tals)<br /> * Geovanni (no slack)<br /> * Charles F. W. (no slack)<br /> * Oskar Weigl (no slack)<br /> * Wenqing Yan (no slack)<br /> * Chris (varenc)<br /> * Ken Tsuchiya <br /> * Carrie Gotch<br /> * Adrian Mettler<br /> * Lyra Levin (no slack)<br /> * David Fisher<br /> * Erick Hernandez<br /> * David C Smith<br /> * Colin Foster Howell Hunt<br /> * Abdel Hassan<br /> * John Graham (no slack)<br /> * Alejandro Otalora<br /> * Christine Valenti<br /> * Paula Villamarin<br /> * Vivian Brown<br /> * Adnan Chowdhury (bttf)<br /> * James D Ricci<br /> * Michael Lyons<br /> * Adam Usmani<br /> * Rachel &quot;DrShiny&quot; McConnell<br /> * Deniz Kusefoglu<br /> * Jim Stockford<br /> * Victor Castro<br /> * Matej Marjanovic­<br /> * Darby (DSA)<br /> * Shannon (DSA)<br /> * Steven (DSA)<br /> * Ratikate<br /> * Trevor W (no slack)<br /> * KineticType (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Leap (no slack)<br /> * Tiffany (@tymeart)<br /> * Brendan (bstiffly)<br /> * Greg Pringle<br /> * Zac Nelson<br /> * Morgan Denis<br /> * Lauren Frazier (no slack)<br /> * Mason M (no slack)<br /> * Ryan P (no slack)<br /> * Poliwat (no slack)<br /> * Asim (no slack)<br /> * Silver (@himalayaz)<br /> * Karolina Ladino Puerto about.me/karoladino<br /> * Bonnie Zhou<br /> * Lucía Cárdenas (about.me/luciac)<br /> * Adriana Armstrong<br /> * Amber Staab<br /> * Sophia Taskova (@sophiataskova)<br /> * Renee Amable<br /> * Roy (@rizend) - Trainer<br /> * Lilyhomer (no slack)<br /> * Anna Van Tuinen (no slack)<br /> * Robert Tilghman (no slack)<br /> * Insiya Dhatt (no slack)<br /> * Rosse Gates (no slack)<br /> * Usman Khan (no slack, @cabana)<br /> * Juan Ressia (no slack)M<br /> * Tony Godshall (no slack, @togo)<br /> * Jacqui Hendricks (no slack)<br /> * Mark Perkin (no slack)<br /> * Tom Steele (no slack, @analog)<br /> * Cavewalk (no slack)<br /> * Nick Reimitz (no slack)<br /> * Darrow Hartman<br /> * Ben Li (no slack)<br /> * Paul Kinsky (no slack)<br /> * Luke Allen (no slack)<br /> * JPKelly (no slack)<br /> * Maged Nabawy (no slack)<br /> * Mindy Walters (no slack)<br /> * Shuai Chen (no slack)<br /> * Tam Pham (no slack)<br /> * Adam Tait (no slack)<br /> * Phil Spitler (no slack)<br /> * Patrick Auld (no slack)<br /> * Daniella Graniello (no slack)<br /> * Alma Davila (no slack)<br /> * Nancy Pham (no slack)<br /> * Jing Luo (no slack)<br /> * Devika Patel (no slack)<br /> * Kendrick Taylor (no slack)<br /> * Moebio (no slack)<br /> * Arnon Zamir (no slack, Arnon@thegood.group)<br /> * Eddie Hartman (no slack)<br /> * Johnny Goodnow (no slack)<br /> * Jimmy Gao (no slack)<br /> * Ahren Alexander (no slack)<br /> * Darren Sears (no slack)<br /> * Chris Bassano (no slack)<br /> * Rafiu (no slack)<br /> * William Brayton (no slack)<br /> * Erik Jacobsen (no slack)<br /> * Cyalee (no slack)<br /> * JD Durst (no slack)<br /> * Kong Sham (no slack)<br /> * Jeremy Price (@jermops)<br /> * Quynhchi (no slack)<br /> * Tina Shen (no slack)<br /> * David Feinberg (no slack)<br /> * Jeff Leanse (no slack)<br /> * Kyle Fleming (no slack)<br /> * Ivan Biggs (no slack)<br /> * Jack Cohen (@jack)<br /> * Bullitt D. Bourbon (no slack)<br /> * Tan Sirinumas (no slack)<br /> * Rik Leipold (@rik lee)<br /> * emma Dilemma (no slack)<br /> * Leela Universe (no slack)<br /> * Smallfry (no slack)<br /> * Scarlet (no slack)<br /> * Tequila Ray Snorkle (no slack)<br /> * Tony Dipasquale (no slack)<br /> * Marie Flanagan (no slack)<br /> * Anna Lewis (no slack)<br /> * Brenda Flowers (no slack)<br /> * Frank Fu (no slack)<br /> * David Shulman (no slack)<br /> * Belen (no slack)<br /> * Sarah Ticho (no slack)<br /> * Sofi Sinibaldi (no slack)<br /> * Miki V (no slack)<br /> * Crow (no slack)<br /> * Andrew Metcalf (no slack)<br /> * Parul (no slack)<br /> * Bernice (@bernice)<br /> * Claire Peters (@clairep)<br /> *John To (no slack)<br /> * Trisha M (no slack)<br /> * Senthil (no slack)<br /> * Feather (no slack)<br /> * Forrest Guest (no slack)<br /> * Chris Johnson (no slack)<br /> * Qianqian jIN<br /> * Anthony Macias<br /> * John Kozubik<br /> * Camille Ochoa<br /> * Changbai Li<br /> * Kris Grant<br /> * Assi Shalom<br /> * Tamar (no slack)<br /> * Sandy Martino (no slack)<br /> * Aziz (no slack)<br /> * Krishanu Nandy (no slack)<br /> * Hans Kwiotek (no slack)<br /> * Mark Schermerhorn (no slack)<br /> * Kenji Music (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Childers (@di)<br /> * Jason Bowman (no slack)<br /> * Shuo Diao (no slack)<br /> * Skye X (@skyex)<br /> * Matt Arcidy (no slack)<br /> * Melodie (no slack)<br /> * Joosang Lee (no slack)<br /> * Ryan Farber (no slack)<br /> * Modibo Ahmed (no slack)<br /> * Wark (no slack)<br /> * Igor Tech (no slack)<br /> * Jean Faucher (no slack)<br /> * Naomi Cohn (no slack)<br /> * Jad Nasrallah (no slack)<br /> * Alpay Kasal (no slack)<br /> * Cere (@ceremona)<br /> * Ninja Sunstar (no slack)<br /> * Jessica F. (no slack)<br /> * Christine Hong (no slack)<br /> * Matthew Bucci (no slack)<br /> * Anne Thai (no slack)<br /> * Babochkov (no slack)<br /> * Stephen Barry (no slack)<br /> * Justin McCandless<br /> * Gavin Garcia<br /> * Ashley Velasquez<br /> * Dustin Franco <br /> * Douglas Barton <br /> * John Grossman<br /> * Mark Hearn<br /> * Aimi (@wataimi)<br /> * Andrew (@wifininja)<br /> * Rich Ying (no slack)<br /> * TwitchyLiquid64 (no slack)<br /> * Fresh Prince (no slack)<br /> * VLWAGGSS (no slack)<br /> * Space Hippie (no slack)<br /> * Alien (no slack)<br /> * Zlatan (Z)<br /> * Gina Trautner (no slack)<br /> • jonhung (jonhung)<br /> * Charlamagne (no slack)<br /> * Muriel (no slack yet)<br /> * Nia Safaa (no slack yet)<br /> * Haiku Lea (no slack yet)<br /> * Amin Wisner (no slack yet)<br /> * Will williams (no slack yet)<br /> * Kkwok (no slack yet)<br /> * Pagrus (no slack yet)<br /> * Fluxxcomp (no slack yet)<br /> * Alper (no slack yet)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!<br /> * USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> * MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS BY THE BATHROOM ARE CLOSED SO YOU DON'T FUMIGATE NOISEBRIDGE<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> If you need something to weigh down your material, use the magnetic balls or beanbags that are kept near the laser; nothing else. Do not let the laser head crash into these; if it does immediately stop the job.<br /> <br /> <br /> Be *very* careful to not put the beanbags (or any other material) in such a situation where they may be dragged by the head. The head should never bump into anything, and *especially* never drag anything.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> ## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down. <br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve. Be sure to ungroup (sometimes multiple times) before trying this, as grouped objects cannot be flattened as a group. This is especially important for text which is by default a group (each character being a separate object in Inkscape once you've turned it into a path).<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to &quot;Scan&quot;. This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the &quot;inside&quot; vs &quot;outside&quot; of the engraving.<br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Nest &amp; Waste Less Material ===<br /> <br /> As of 01/2018 you can use the industrial strength [http://deepnest.io/#quickstart Deepnest] installed on the [[Kaitian_CM1309|Laser Cutter computer]] + [[CollaborationStation|Collaboration Station]] in Hackitorium. We have an unlimited subscription available to laser users, which is compatible with both ''DXF'', ''Corel CDR'' and ''SVG'' formats. Please ask if you need login credentials. Also available from the same author for free is [http://svgnest.com/| SVGNest, which can be used by clicking here].<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.<br /> <br /> If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path &gt; Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path &gt; Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===<br /> If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.<br /> [[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says &quot;For Non-Laser Fires Only&quot;, and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Good Materials<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4&quot;) || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Bamboo (3/32&quot; nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cork (nominal 1/4&quot;) || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||<br /> <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Delrin (nominal 3/8&quot;, actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | MDF (5/8&quot;) || 100 || 4-7 || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV. Etch speeds given for *scan* etching (i.e. when you do a filled area). You can tweak the speed and power to get different effects. Simple line engraving may have different settings.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4&quot;) || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polyethylene Foam (1/2&quot;) || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || || <br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | 0.04&quot; Clear Polystyrene (Mr Plastics) || || || 30 || 30 || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff from Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.<br /> <br /> == How do I send files to the Laser computer over the internet? ==<br /> <br /> Send your files directly to the laser cutter through this URL [https://cloud.disroot.org/s/bFv70wtK9xQuyp3], which is kindly hosted for us by [https://disroot.org/en| Disroot.org] via [https://nextcloud.com/| Nextcloud].<br /> <br /> All files are uploaded directly to ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\Uploads for Noisebridge Lasercutter\''<br /> <br /> Please move any files you upload to your own folder asap.<br /> <br /> == Ok, I created a folder for my laser cutter files, but can I access them over the internet? ==<br /> Yes, this is now possible as of 01/2018.<br /> <br /> # Double check you made a folder inside ''\My Documents\PUT YOUR FILES HERE (IN YOUR OWN FOLDER)\''<br /> # Ping @James on Slack with the name of your folder.<br /> # Be sure to mention if you need a password added to your folder.<br /> # Wait a day for the share link to be activated and sent to you.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> === Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===<br /> The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.<br /> When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -&gt; Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.<br /> (TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)<br /> <br /> === SOLIDWORKS ===<br /> Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53214 2016-08-06T18:33:26Z

<p>Akelly: Added more Fusion workflows</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> * Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br /> * Jason<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> ## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br /> This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br /> # Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br /> If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br /> # Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br /> # Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br /> # Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br /> # Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br /> # Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> === Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br /> This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> === Kerf Compensation ===<br /> <br /> For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the &quot;Advance&quot; button next to the &quot;Seal&quot; input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br /> <br /> In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || || || || 35 || 55% || || || || <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53176 2016-08-04T16:01:21Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -&gt; Preview)<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Go to the Linking tab and disable lead-ins and lead-outs, because RDWorks can't import them correctly<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't respec that order, so you need to optimize the cut order again<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Text Cutting ===<br /> <br /> Engraved text requires no special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Birch (4.8mm) || || || || 15 || 55% || || || || Cut power is slightly higher than necessary, produces very black edges, probably faster is possible<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53146 2016-08-04T04:32:41Z

<p>Akelly: Added plywood kerfs</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> People that have successfully completed the class:<br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> * Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> * Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> * Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> * Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> * Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> * Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Techniques ==<br /> <br /> === Negative Space Engraving ===<br /> <br /> You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 mm/s || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 mm/s || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (3mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 mm/s || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Plywood (5.6mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 mm/s || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53069 2016-08-03T18:43:12Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 mm/s || 10%? || || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53068 2016-08-03T18:42:51Z

<p>Akelly: Material table formatting</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10%? || || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53067 2016-08-03T18:41:38Z

<p>Akelly: Undo revision 53066 by Akelly (talk)</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53066 2016-08-03T18:41:10Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53065 2016-08-03T18:40:19Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53064 2016-08-03T18:38:52Z

<p>Akelly: </p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53063 2016-08-03T18:34:37Z

<p>Akelly: fixed link</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting on the wiki, and enter that in Kerf Width, or cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53062 2016-08-03T18:33:05Z

<p>Akelly: Added Advanced Options section for Fusion 360</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting on the wiki, and enter that in Kerf Width, or cut one of [these](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680) and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> # Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br /> <br /> === Advanced Options ===<br /> # If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;. You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br /> # If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br /> # There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br /> # If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> # You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br /> <br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53061 2016-08-03T18:08:36Z

<p>Akelly: Added Fusion 360 Workflow</p> <hr /> <div>== Contact list ==<br /> <br /> === Trainers ===<br /> <br /> * Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br /> * Darryl (@augur on slack)<br /> * Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br /> * Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br /> <br /> == Who can use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br /> <br /> Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br /> Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br /> Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br /> Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br /> Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br /> Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br /> Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br /> <br /> == How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br /> <br /> # Ask a trainer if they will train you<br /> # Schedule a time with the trainer<br /> # Get trained<br /> # Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of users<br /> ** users can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> * maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br /> ** trainers can be found at: URL<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Basic Safety ==<br /> The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> The basics:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br /> * OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br /> * BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br /> * DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br /> <br /> === Fire ===<br /> <br /> You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br /> <br /> <br /> Ways to not cause fires:<br /> * ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br /> * Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br /> ** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br /> * Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br /> <br /> How to put out a fire:<br /> * Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br /> * Open the lid.<br /> * If it's small, try and blow it out.<br /> * If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br /> * If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br /> <br /> === Damage to eyes and skin ===<br /> The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br /> * you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br /> * As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br /> <br /> === Crushing danger ===<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br /> <br /> Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fumes ===<br /> The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br /> * ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br /> * The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Care of the machine ==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br /> <br /> == Paying for your laser time ==<br /> <br /> The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br /> <br /> To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br /> <br /> Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Workflows ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Overall Workflow ===<br /> <br /> This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br /> <br /> # Laser start up<br /> # Material setup<br /> # Convert file to DXF<br /> # Load file onto the machine<br /> # Dry run<br /> # Cut/Engrave<br /> # Laser shut down<br /> # Cleanup<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser start up ===<br /> <br /> # Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br /> <br /> <br /> === Material setup ===<br /> <br /> # Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br /> # Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br /> # Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br /> # Place material on the bed<br /> # Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br /> <br /> <br /> === Focusing the laser ===<br /> <br /> Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br /> <br /> # Place the material on the cut bed<br /> # Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br /> # Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br /> # Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br /> # Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br /> # Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br /> # Remove the focusing discs<br /> <br /> <br /> === Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br /> <br /> # Load the image into Inkscape<br /> # Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br /> # Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Debugging DXF Problems ===<br /> <br /> Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Path &gt; Object to Path<br /> <br /> If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br /> <br /> # Select all the problematic shapes<br /> # Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions &gt; Modify Path &gt; Flatten Bezier).<br /> <br /> Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br /> <br /> Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br /> <br /> === Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br /> <br /> # Import the file with File &gt; Import<br /> # Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br /> # Set the cut order:<br /> ##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle &gt; Cut optimize &gt; Inside to outside)<br /> ##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit &gt; Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br /> # Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br /> # Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br /> # Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Manually specifying cut order ===<br /> <br /> In the Set cutting property window (Edit &gt; Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled &quot;&gt;&gt;&quot;, this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click &quot;&gt;&gt;&gt;&quot;, all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking &quot;&lt;&lt;&lt;&quot; will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Select the library item<br /> # Click &quot;Load&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br /> <br /> # In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br /> # Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br /> # Click &quot;Load parameters from library&quot;<br /> # Click &quot;Save as&quot;<br /> # Enter a name and optionally some notes<br /> # Click &quot;Ok&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Simulation ===<br /> <br /> # Open the simulation window with either Edit &gt; Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br /> # Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cutting ===<br /> <br /> # Select the file to use using the File button<br /> # Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br /> # Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br /> # Set the origin by pressing Origin<br /> # Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> # Turn the laser power on<br /> # Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Engraving ===<br /> <br /> TODO<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br /> <br /> # Pause with the Start/Pause button<br /> # Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br /> <br /> <br /> === Laser shut down ===<br /> <br /> # Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br /> # Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br /> # Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br /> # Turn the power off<br /> <br /> <br /> === Cleanup ===<br /> <br /> # Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br /> # Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br /> <br /> <br /> === Calculating work time ===<br /> <br /> On the computer:<br /> <br /> * Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br /> <br /> On the machine:<br /> <br /> * Whole file: File &gt; Select file &gt; Right Arrow &gt; Work Time &gt; Enter<br /> * Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br /> <br /> == Fusion 360 ==<br /> Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting.<br /> <br /> === Workflow ===<br /> <br /> # Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br /> # If you're using your own computer and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking &quot;CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support&quot;<br /> # Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br /> # Select the Waterjet operation<br /> ## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br /> ## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br /> ## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting on the wiki, and enter that in Kerf Width, or cut one of [these](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680) and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br /> ## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br /> ## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br /> ## If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br /> ## You're done with this dialog box, so hit OK. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br /> # To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure kaitianlaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br /> # Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br /> <br /> == Maintenance==<br /> <br /> '''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br /> <br /> * TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br /> * DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br /> * how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br /> * how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br /> ** Cleaning the mirrors<br /> *** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br /> *** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br /> * Checking and performing mirror alignment<br /> ** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br /> ** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br /> ** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br /> ** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br /> * Checking chiller tank water volume<br /> ** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br /> ** Checking tank water volume<br /> ** Refilling tank water<br /> * Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Signs:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * Approved materials<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br /> * power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;watch the laser while it is cutting&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> Todos:<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * &lt;strike&gt;label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> * acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br /> * acquire vinyl record for testing<br /> * acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> material notes<br /> * material selection - approved materials list<br /> ** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br /> ** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br /> ** nothing reflective<br /> ** size constraints<br /> * laser configuration - power, speed<br /> ** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br /> <br /> How to get a new/novel material approved<br /> * consensus process<br /> * chlorine test<br /> <br /> == Chlorine material test ==<br /> <br /> Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br /> <br /> To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br /> <br /> First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br /> <br /> Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br /> <br /> With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br /> <br /> Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br /> <br /> These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br /> <br /> {|border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#ccc&quot; | Bad materials<br /> |-<br /> ! Material<br /> ! Notes<br /> |-<br /> | PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |-<br /> | Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br /> |- <br /> | Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br /> |- <br /> | Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br /> |-<br /> | Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br /> |- <br /> | ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br /> |- <br /> | Fiberglass ||<br /> |- <br /> | Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Known good materials ==<br /> <br /> These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> |-<br /> ! colspan=&quot;10&quot; bgcolor=&quot;#cccccc&quot; | Cardboards/Papers<br /> |-<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;2&quot; | Material<br /> ! colspan=&quot;3&quot; | Engraving <br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Cutting<br /> ! colspan=&quot;2&quot; | Scoring<br /> ! rowspan=&quot;1&quot; | Notes<br /> |-<br /> ! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3mm/s || 55 || || ||<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6mm/s || 10? || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Sourcing Material ==<br /> <br /> In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br /> <br /> For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br /> <br /> For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter/Kaitian_CM1309&diff=52629 2016-07-05T19:52:02Z

<p>Akelly: Updated brochure link to merged version</p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:Kaitian.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Kaitian CM1309]]<br /> <br /> ''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''<br /> <br /> '''Some friends of Noisebridge from China have donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''<br /> <br /> In February of 2016 we were approached by [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/ Beijing Kaitian Tech. Co., Ltd], after Mitch gave them a tour of Noisebridge they offered us a new 100w laser cutter as a donation (with the stipulation of us taking care of shipping costs). As of July 1st 2016 (and after a crazy adventure involving a rental truck, a forklift, and a lot of Indian pizza), we now have the laser in house. Please check out our action items to see what needs to happen next.<br /> <br /> =Current Action Items=<br /> * Review what else needs to happen to get the laser installed and the area in the Sparkle Forge it sits in happy<br /> * Source some computer gear and a new monitor<br /> ** Rubin has a plan for a pair of Intel NUCs (running Windows for reliability and Linux for hackability) and have it securly mounted to monitor<br /> * Start the process of documentation<br /> ** Safety<br /> ** Training<br /> ** Materials<br /> ** Donations for laser time and expendables<br /> ** How to schedule time<br /> ** How to actually use the damn thing<br /> * Discussion about ACL<br /> * Some work to better figure out the laser software<br /> * Fundraising for the remainder of the $4000 plus extra for expendables<br /> <br /> ====Done Items====<br /> * Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.<br /> * Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.<br /> ** We've raised about $1500 so far<br /> * Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.<br /> ** The laser current lives in the Sparkle Forge.<br /> * Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.<br /> <br /> =Specs=<br /> ====Machine====<br /> * Laser: 100W<br /> * Working area: 1300mm × 900mm × 210mm / 51.1811in × 35.4331in × 8.26772in<br /> * Table size: 1360mm × 1080mm / 53.54331in × 42.51969in<br /> * Function: Engraving/Cutting<br /> * Workpiece maximum weight: 25kg / 55.1156lbs<br /> * Cutting speed (cm/min): ≤4800<br /> * Resolution ratio: 4000dpi<br /> <br /> ====Chiller====<br /> * KT-5200 Electronic chiller<br /> * Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34&quot; x 17.32&quot; x 24.40&quot;)<br /> * Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf<br /> <br /> ====Exhaust Fan====<br /> * 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct<br /> <br /> =Resources=<br /> Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter:&lt;br&gt;<br /> * [[File:Kaitian_CM1309_Merged.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure ''(730KB)'']]<br /> * [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]<br /> <br /> =Fundraising=<br /> '''Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter!'''<br /> <br /> ($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)<br /> <br /> Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently &lt;$2,500)<br /> <br /> '''Donations are tax deductible'''</div>

Akelly https://wiki.extremist.software/index.php?title=File:Kaitian_CM1309_Merged.pdf&diff=52628 2016-07-05T19:49:31Z

<p>Akelly: Merged the two halves of the Kaitian laser cutter manual</p> <hr /> <div>Merged the two halves of the Kaitian laser cutter manual</div>

Akelly