Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

Arduino!

2010-11-24T01:07:03Z

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'''Arduino workshop at Noisebridge!'''

'''What''':

Learn how to use Arduino hardware and software, develop your skills, work on your Arduino project, show off your Arduino project, get answers and suggestions to your Arduino problems or questions

* For absolute beginners, I, and others, will help you install, set up, and write your first Arduino program

* For intermediate beginners, we will help you as you work through the included exercises to help you develop you knowledge, skill, and confidence

* For those interested in hardware, we will build our own either from kits such as RBBB or Volksduino, or from scratch on a block of wood. The original breadboarding!!

* For those interested in other things, a playgroup environment will provide encouragement, support, assistance, and an opportunity to share.

'''Who''': [http://www.teachmetomake.com Michael Shiloh] has taught hundreds of people how to have fun with Arduino

'''When''': 18:30 every 2nd Thursday ARDUINO IS ON VACATION AND WILL RESUME 1/13

'''What should you bring?'''

To get the most out of the workshop, you want to participate in the activity. This requires a laptop and an Arduino. You might use one of the public computers at Noisebridge.

Arduino: Either bring your own or I'll have the standard Duemilanove for sale at $30 each. NOTE: I AM CURRENTLY OUT OF STOCK!

Any accessories such as sensors or actuators that you wish to experiment with. If you have none, you can borrow from the Arduino junkbox, which also accepts donations of same.

'''Want to save time?'''

Download, and, if you can, try to install the Arduino IDE from http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Questions? Comments? michael AT teachmetomake DOT com

'''Cost''': Free, but donations to the space and/or to the instructor are accepted to support this kind of work

[[Arduino Workshop Notes]]

CrazyCryptoNight

2010-11-24T01:06:36Z

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Meeting Notes 2009 07 14

2010-11-24T01:06:15Z

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Oscilloscopes

2010-11-24T01:05:57Z

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Flashrd

2010-11-24T01:05:53Z

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Nanoloop Tutorial

2010-11-24T01:05:53Z

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Meeting Notes 2008 08 19

2010-11-24T01:05:02Z

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Noisebridge del Chiapas

2010-11-24T01:04:59Z

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Introduction to the AVR Microcontroller

2010-11-24T01:04:48Z

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Brain Machine Workshop

2010-11-24T01:04:36Z

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Python classes

2010-11-24T01:04:28Z

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I'm an enthusiastic user of the Python programming language, although I don't get to exercise my skills enough since I program only infrequently for work and for hobby projects. I've enjoyed teaching Python at work to people who were mostly nonprogrammers and I'd like to find more opportunities to teach, so I'd be glad to try to set up either a Python class for nonprogrammers or a Python class for non-Python programmers at Noisebridge.

Two problems I've encountered when teaching coworkers are how to get (the same set of) people to attend regularly and how to get people to do homework or practice outside of class. I guess in an academic setting these problems are often handled by giving letter grades for attendance (or testing), which doesn't work well in a volunteer class setting.

Is anybody interested in this? [[User:Schoen|Schoen]] 21:18, 26 October 2008 (PDT)

me, i'm interested in python. can you teach me what is "pythonic"? can you help me to use any of the zillions of modules that pack the planet? --[[User:Jstockford|Jstockford]] 20:36, 28 October 2008 (PDT)

Yeah! it's hard to find python classes in the real world.

[[User:Chris|Chris]] I'd be happy to teach or help teach some.

There is a Python class Mondays at 6pm which has been under the auspices of SF Linux Users Group, and which is quite possibly moving to Noisebridge. We're working through [http://www.greenteapress.com/thinkpython/thinkpython.pdf this book]. --[[User:Elgreengeeto|Skory]]

[[category:events]]

Noisebot

2010-11-24T01:04:02Z

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Noisedroid

2010-11-24T01:03:59Z

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Meeting Notes 2010 04 06

2010-11-24T01:03:35Z

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Meeting Notes 2008 04 27

2010-11-24T01:03:31Z

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[[Category:Meeting Notes]]

'''Agenda''':

Talk about "members" and "Members", and maybe even nail down the language to complete the Bylaws to present to everyone for comments, so we can mail them in to become incorporated as a CA non-profit corporation.

Talk about possible Noisebridge participation in the Hacker Space Village at The Last HOPE (a hacker conference taking place in New York City from July 18th through the 20th).

----------------

Here's my understanding of the consensus we came to at the end of
today's meeting about bylaw structure. Please speak up if you see
something I got wrong, something is unclear, or you have other thoughts.
The next step is to update the bylaws on the wiki to reflect this
consensus, then incorporate.

0) There will be a 5-person Board of Directors: the three execs plus two
others. The reason for 5 is to make quorum issues easier. The role of
the Board is to moderate and to execute the will of the Members.

1) Every person who makes a sustained contribution over a period of
between two-three months (exact time TBD) to Noisebridge will have the
opportunity to be a capital-M Member, unless there are objections from
current members. We will not have two classes of long-term membership.
All will be legal Members of the corporation, with the power to call
meetings, turn out the Board if needed, etc.

2) Specifically, a person will become a member after hanging out at
Noisebridge for two-three months, usually as a guest of a current
member, then having the current members agree to accept the person.
There will be a membership meeting or other specific point where a new
person becomes a member. The Secretary will keep a current list of members.

3) Members pay dues. People who guests or new people do not.

We also discussed other issues, such as the need to have an explicitly
spelled out policy for removing members (by law and just as a good idea)
before renting a space. For right now, though, the priority is finishing
the writing of bylaws so we can incorporate and get things going.

-David Molnar

------------

Cash donations of $65.00 were collected. We now have a total of $91.00 cash.

Mitch.

Year 1 Open Hacker House

2010-11-24T01:03:31Z

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__NOTOC__ __NOEDITSECTION__ [[category:events]]
<big><big><big>Bring your geeky friends, come get your hack on!</big></big></big>
:'''Friday October 2nd'''
:'''6PM - 11PM'''
:'''Noisebridge, 2169 Mission Street San Francisco CA''' [http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Noisebridge%2C+San+Francisco+CA Map]

=What is this event?=
Noisebridge is a space for sharing, creation, collaboration, research, development, mentoring, and of course, learning. Noisebridge is also more than a physical space, it's a community with roots extending around the world. We help people build neat and awesome things. Don't know what Noisebridge is? [[Noisebridge|Check out our wiki]]!

October will mark the 1 year anniversary of our physical presence. Year 0 was our TAZ phase, we're past that and proud of it. This event will be a celebration to showcase neat stuff Noisebridge has made in it's first year of existence, plus to show off our new location! Come on by and check out what we've been up to.

==Projects Showcase==
[[Image:Noisebridge year1-flyer-small.png|right]]
===Electronics Lab===
* Neat electronics from [[Circuit Hacking Mondays]]
* [[Big_LED_Screen|LED Game of Life]]
* Trip out with [[Brain_Machine_Workshop|Brain Machines]]!
[[Image:BrainMachine_thumbs.jpg]]

===Cyborg group===
* [[Compass_Vibro_Anklet|North paw compass anklet]]
* [[Pulse_Necklace|Pulse choker]]
* [[UltraSonicHearing|Ultrasonic listening / echolocation]]

===Dark Optics Lab===
* Photography from Noisebridge
* A [[Dark Room]]
* Slide projector

===Shop===
* [[RepRap]]
* [[Makerbot]]
* How to build a table

===Others===
* [[OpenEEG]]
* Weird things on a projection screen written in Python
* Parking meter reverse engineering and analysis
* The Cold Boot Attack
* The Rouge CA certificate project
* libmsr
* Misc. Free Software

===Hacked Up Musical Performances===
* DIY instrument modifications and decorations from the lovely [http://corpus.cc Corpus Callosum]
* Circuit bending with [http://www.calymcmorrow.com/ Caly McMorrow]
* Performance and cool projects by [http://komegamusic.com/ Komega]
* Mind blowing, clever, beautiful, twisted music performance by [http://www.myspace.com/blipvert1 BlipVert]

===Visuals===
* Way cool VJs: [[User:Mediapathic|Steen]], Vlad's astral form, [[User:Mattbot|MattBot]], and David Witherell
* Photography out the wazoo.

===5 Minutes of Fame===
* [[Five_Minutes_of_Fame|5 Minutes of Fame]] corner with video from past events

===Reverse Engineering Bar===
* Awesome geeky drinks
* Tech support for your metrosexual and hipster computing needs
* Pabst Blue Ribbon

=Who's invited?=
Members, non-members, anyone who's interested in Noisebridge and general hacking. This is an all ages opening.

There is no cover! Noisebridge is a 501c3 nonprofit that likes to make as much of its resources available and open as possible, including events like this. We do encourage and appreciate donations, which might get put towards completing the build out of our new space! Please donate so we can keep on building cool things.

=Tell your friends!=
Here are some links to neat flyers you can spam your friends with, plus photos.

'''Link to: [https://noisebridge.net/year1 https://noisebridge.net/year1]'''

* [[media:Noisebridge_year1-flyer-large.png|Large flyer]]
* [[media:Noisebridge_year1-flyer-small.png|Small flyer]]
* [[media:Noisebridge_year1-header-large.png|Large header]]
* [[media:Noisebridge_year1-header-small.png|Small header]]
* Photo: [http://www.flickr.com/photos/0x0000org/3902499515/ Build out of new space] by [http://www.flickr.com/people/0x0000org/ Jonathan Moore]
* Photo: [http://www.flickr.com/photos/0x0000org/3844381905/ Five Minutes of Fame] by [http://www.flickr.com/people/0x0000org/ Jonathan Moore]
* Photo: [http://www.flickr.com/photos/audreypenven/3372638092/ Duct Tape Exoskeleton] by [http://audreypenven.net/ Audrey Penven]

Working with Physics libraries in Processing

2010-11-24T01:03:22Z

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Donate or Pay Dues

2010-11-24T01:03:11Z

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Arduino tvbgone for Newbies Workshop

2010-11-24T01:02:58Z

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Processing Class

2010-11-24T01:02:54Z

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Meeting Notes 2009 04 14

2010-11-24T01:02:30Z

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Mailinglist

2010-11-24T01:02:26Z

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Civil Hackers School

2010-11-24T01:02:22Z

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<pre>
The Schedule

- Friday (August, 14)

Entry point: 2100

2100 - Orientation for Hacking Run
2140 - Sitting
2210 - Bed time

— Saturday (August, 15) —

Entry points: 0600, 0800, 1300, 1900

0600 - Wake Up Bell [[ENTRY POINT 0]]
0625 - Sitting
0715 - Breakfast
0800 *** [[ENTRY POINT 1]] ***
0945 - Sitting x3
1230 - Lunch
1300 *** [[ENTRY POINT 2]] ***
1400 - Talk
1530 - Sitting x2
1830 - Dinner
1900 *** [[ENTRY POINT 3]] ***
1930 - Sitting x2
2100 - Bed time

— Sunday (August, 16) —

Entry points: 0600

0600 - Wake up Bell [[ENTRY POINT 0]]
0625 - Sitting x2
0800 - Breakfast
0900 - Talking Ring
1000 - End Of Hacking Run
</pre>
<pre>
----- The Message -----

*********************************************************
CIVIL HACKERS' SCHOOL PRESENTATION - AUGUST 11, 7:00 P.M.
*********************************************************

Since December 1996, Russian hacker Ilya V. Vasilyev has run a Moscow
educational center for hacker training. Inspired by East Asian martial
arts, his Civil Hackers' School has received thousands of applications,
trained hundreds of students from ages 12 to 64, and obtained world-wide
media coverage. Ilya also teaches an adapted version of this program
as an after-school course, "The Basics of Hacking Art", for teenagers
and their teachers.

For a dozen years Civil Hackers' School has consistently leveraged
free software in Russia. Operating systems, developer tools, and
everyday applications are used to inform the young hackers in the way
of freedom expressed by the Free Software Foundation. In this way
young hackers migrate from windows, study GNU/Linux from scratch,
learn languages on free compilers and gain the ability to contribute
to the sustainment of the community.

Ilya has presented the Civil Hackers' School project at the Chaos
Communication Camp in Germany in 2007 and in Las Vegas in 2008. This
week, he will present the project here in the Bay Area at Noisebridge on
Tuesday, August 11, at 7:00 p.m.

For directions to Noisebridge go to the official wiki:
https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Getting_Here

He also plans to offer an intensive Hacking Run this weekend --
August 14-16 -- to give interested Bay Area residents a taste of the
curriculum, take them through a version of the training program, and
prepare and certify them to lead similar training in the Bay Area.
Participants in the Hacking Run are expected to contribute to the
purchase and preparation of food for the event.

Contacts:
Ilya V. Vasilyev
softkey@rambler.org
+1 415 706 3594

----- The Message -----
</pre>

Meeting Notes 2008 01 22

2010-11-24T01:02:13Z

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27C3 apt

2010-11-24T01:02:11Z

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880 Harrison

2010-11-24T01:01:52Z

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Meeting Notes Template

2010-11-24T01:01:39Z

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KDD Competition 2010

2010-11-24T01:01:37Z

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Meeting Notes 2010 09 07

2010-11-24T01:01:07Z

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HInternet

2010-11-24T01:00:51Z

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Consolecollection

2010-11-24T01:00:50Z

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Inventory before donating to pinball & arcade collector in PDX en route to toorcamp.

container 000:

*virtual boy in box (used)
*dreamcast in box (new)

container 001:

*playstation (scph-7501) chipped
*dual shock controllers x2
*standard original psx controller
*memory card x2 (one grey one red)
*game hunter pro 2M

container 002:
*SNES
*SNES power supply
*SNES joypads x2
(mario paint mouse & mousepad
*SNES rca cables
*rf to coax adapter

container 003:
*NES
*NES power supply
*NES zapper (orange)
*NES joypads x2
*RF to coax adapter
*Famicom to NES cartridge adapter (originally bought at K Elektronics in Japan Center, SF CA in 1988)
*NES to Famicom cartridge adapter (still sealed)
*NES Catridges: Bionic Commando, The Guardian Legend, Bo Jackson Baseball, Excitebike, X-Men, Ducktales, Super Mario Bros/Duck Hunt, Kid Icarus, Super Marios Bros. 2, The Legend of Zelda, Rush 'N Attack, Super Marios Bros. 3,

container 004:
*Super Gameboy (boxed used)
*Tototek fabbed flashcart & programmer boards & star wars cartridge still in bubble wrap from original order
*SNES cartridges: The Legend of Zelda: A link to the Past, F-Zero (no screws loose tape; used to just plug cartridge PCB into SFC at friend's before we found adapters), Street Fighter II - Turbo, Mystic Quest, Axelay, Actraiser, Super Mario World (also no screws), Gradius III, Mario Paint, Super Mario All Stars, Secret of Mana (always had flakey save memory), Contra III, Starfox, Actraiser 2, Super R-Type, Mega Man X, Super Metroid, Mystic Ninja

container 005:
*Everything you need to run any N64 game ever just about.
*N64 (plus power supply, also upgraded 4M rambus ram catridge)
*N64 controllers x4 (grey, black, blue, red)
*Performance Tremor Pack Plus (modified with a simple wire swap to draw power from controller so no batteries required) plus Performance brand memory card
*Illicit hardware:
*MGD3 Doctor V64 jr. 256M
*E64 (restickered Bung MGD3 Doctor V64 jr. 512M since bung was shut down by Nintendo around the time of release; iirc this may need some 3/5V conversion to work reliably check dextrose.com for information I never used it or performed the mod to improve its lifespan).
*DS1 & DX 256 (for different type of game save memory styles)
*N64 Cartridges (certain cartridge security chips are need to run certain games I forget which is for which but I think I have all the required ones)
*Super Mario 64, Star Wars Episode I Racer, Donkey Kong 64, Mario Cart 64, Wonder Project J2 (Japanese), Diddy Kong Racing, Command and Conquer
*N64 controller gameboy cartridge adapter (this let certain games like pokemon read savestate and unlock characters or something random iirc)

container 006:
*Sega 32X for genesis in boxed never tested
*Pelican Dreamcast VGA box, in box never tested
*Sony PS2 multitap still in unopened sealed box new
*Sega Dreamcast broadband adapter still in box, never used (very rare/desirable this was very limited release in the USA and speeds up dreamcast ripping significantly compared with serial cable, plus allows for many other neat things)
*Sega Dreamcast Fishing Controller (in box I don't recall if I ever used it)
*Sega Dreamcast visual memory unit charcoal, boxed I don't think I ever used it
*Sega Dreamcast mouse boxed, again I don't think I ever used it
*Sega Dreamcast keyboard - generic box got on clearance, unused as well I think
*EMS Total Control 5 PS2 to Dreamcast keyboard adapter still in packaging

container 007: (hardware gaming pirate treasure trove)
*Tototek custom SMS cartridge ROM dumper (master gear convertor soldered & hot glued onto a gameboy cartridge to use the pin header with a MGD3 Bung gameboy MGD3 X-Changer cartridge dumper and flasher). Requires customer software from tototek, may be available for download, I may have pascal source code somewhere too... one of the only ways to dump SMS stuff in the past 10 years.
*NEC RAU-30 Allows for a PC-Engine CD-ROM^2 system to be connected to a SuperGrafx. Still in box, never tested as I never found a CD-ROM^2 system (and spent more efforts trying to find a Super CD-ROM^2 drive which doesn't need this adapter)
*Freetron MG-2000 Master Gear 2 convertor - Play SMS games on a game gear with it! boxed
*another Rayman custom special Tototek custom PC-Engine flashcard. Using a PC-Engine HuCard wire soldered onto a Bung MGD3 Doctor GB Card 4M. Requires MGD3 X-Changer to flash with custom software which was available for download once at tototek.
*Sega Nomad (handheld sega genesis/megadrive)
*Sega game gear
*Bung MGD3 Gb X-Changer (with a gender changer) this device is needed for many things beyond gameboy flashcarts and dumping, but all the tototek custom stuff as well. Like most/all bung devices from this era it works best with fresh batteries -and- a power supply.
*Doctor MGD3 GB Card 16M. iirc this and the 4M drew more power than they should've, later rectified in other flashcarts. Works for all gameboy and gameboy color roms.
*Tototek custom PC-Engine ROM dumper. PC-Engine HuCard slot wire soldered and hot glued onto a hello kitty gameboy cartridge. I used this to dump the last undumped commercially released PC-Engine game (Power League Alls Stars Gold Caravan Edition limited to 200 in a promotional giveaway in 1989; collectors pay upwards of $1000 or now can just download it :). Used custom software Rayman wrote in pascal which iirc would dump a full 8Mbits even if the rom itself was smaller. I seem to recall needing to hexedit it down to the sub 2Mbit image I released.
*Tototek non customer SMS Dumper/programmer and flash cart as well as SMS cartridge for housing in bubble wrap (dumper/programmer not bubblewrapped). Never used.
*EMS GB Transferer (bung's gbxchanger wasn't the only thing for gameboy flashcarts this is a competitor product I seem to have lost the flashcart for it though). Original packaging
*Bung Pocket Linker and 32M Pocket Flash Card (if you want to dump or play Neo Geo Pocket or Neo Geo Pocket colour games, this is what you'll need).
*EMS Double Power - let's you copy files between Dreamcast VMU's or from a PC if you use their proprietary commlink to db25 cable also there)
*Tototek Custom made Dreamcast coder's cable. All kindsa hackery in this one, literally chopping off part of a port soldered and hotglued onto a db9. I gave another one of these to heliophobe (R.I.P) which lead to him writing an SMS emulator for the dreamcast. But this was also more or less how games were dumped before broadband adapter methods. See also: Kalisto
*Tototek fabbed Game Gear flashcart looking much slicker than the custom made stuff! USB is for supplying 5V power only on fabbed stuff, LPT is for programming. Software on Rayman's website I suspect? Never used it'
*Mako MGD^2 Doctor Card 8M. I never was able to find a MGD^2, but here's a memory card for use with it (it was a totally modular cartridge copier and player system; dealt with PC-Engine, SFC, MGD, even Neo Geo!) Other trivia: mako renamed to bung after legal troubles, bung renamed to ? after legal troubles? >:)
*A less jank custom made DC coder's cable (always good to have backups)
*two plastic bagged dreamcast modchips (these were just for removing country/region protections, not copy protections; Kalisto/utopia/echelon bootloader stuff for that)
*Front Far East SWC 3201 DX2, more popularly known as a Super Wild Card DX2 64M. This is the last and greatest of the commercially produced SFC/SNES copiers, integrated floppy drive - could also be used with LPT port to PC or to an external CD-ROM drive.
*A couple of 9V AC adapters. For whatever reason pretty much all copier/flash/backup/unofficialdev hardware likes these they're basically the same as the Genesis/Megadrive AC adapter you can never have enough.
*Phantasy Star IV Cartridge for Sega Genesis
*Virtua Racing Cartridge for Sega Genesis
*Beavis and Butthead cartridge for Sega Genesis (picked up at weird stuff as junk for never happened flashcart project)
*Pebble Beach Gold Megadrive Cartridge (probably for use with Tototek fabbed MGD flashcart)
*Misc copier packaging.

container 008:
*Black gamecube half unscrewed; was going to chip until distracted by family drama probably never returned to project. Should be fully working if reassembled.

container 009:
*black gamecube fully working with gameboy player attached, memory card, power supply, svideo cable.
*EMS 64M GC USB Memory adapter. iirc this was the only device which would let you copy GC game saves to the PC and back.
*Gameboy Advanced link cable (for linking more than one GBA I guess, such as to the GBA player on the GC?)
*usb to GBA flash linker cable. Not sure where the flashcart is... probably with my kids somewhere.

container 010:
*PS2
*PS2 dual shock 2 controller
*PS2 remote control & IR receiver
*2 PS2 memory cards (blue & red)
*PS2 svideo adapter
*Parappa The Rapper 2
*Crash Team Racing
*Crash Bandicoot 2

container 011:
*NEC SUPERGRAFX, controller, RCA cable adapter, power supply. (this was probably the last 6502 derived commercial gaming system ever released using a custom Hudson Soft HuC6280 cpu in 1990. A total flop in Japan, it's backwards compatible with PC-Engine titles and due to the high cost at launch a bit popular among US collectors who couldn't afford it then.
*Tototek fabbed 32M PCEngine flashcart, USB just used for power, LPT for programming. Software on website still presumably. Can even play the largest 20Mbit Street Fighter II ROM.
*PCEngine HuCard folio with 18 Games. Including 3 of the 7 released supergrafx title, as well as two other items of note, two prototypes I never dumped confusingly disguised in US TurboGrafx Hucard packaging. Power Golf is actually Final Soldier (ファイナル・ソルジャー) while China Warrior is actually Circus Ride　(サーカスライド). Since I never dumped them I never ran a hash to see if they were the same as released. These games were from a friend of a friend who's father worked for NEC. This was also the source of the aforementioned power league all stars gold hucard I dumped, but sold to a collector afterwards for much less than it demanded (he was obsessive but friendly and hooked me up with rare warez he had dumped and had been trying to find that item for years for his collection so I cut him a friendly break. It was actually a very lame game not worth paying four figures for).

container 012:
*Intellivision & a buncha games, boxed. Never played. Not going to try to catalogue everything.

Contrainer 013:
*US oval button (but 21 pin internally, odd revision) Sega Saturn. Chipped and modified to be Japanese region only. Two controllers, RCA cables.
*Satellite Cartridge, use for disabling game region coding (e.g. if you want to play a US game on the saturn in this box you'll need this. modchip and region coding are mutually exclusive on the saturn)
*Three action replay cartridges. I don't remember all of the various iterations here, but they they are, have fun!

Container 014:
*Nee never opened US PSX 7501 (last model with the expansion port with most other design flaws mitigated; most reliable + featureful model)
*Round button US Sega Saturn (all round button models are 21pin internally which is handy since 20 pin modchips are basically impossible to find or were when I last looked a decade ago, they're all probably rare now).
*Saturn controller expansion cable in original packaging.
*Sega Master System with power supply, two controllers, Zillion light gun ( Zillion was a cartoon tie in in Japan), RF to coax adapter.
*Sega Saturn 6way multitaps boxed unused x2 (for getting 10 or 12? people together to play bomberman.... never happened)
*Gameboy Pocket Printer in box (strange gimicks, worked with gameboy pocket camera)
*Sega Saturn backup cartridge third party ones never worked well. This one supposedly does though I never used it.
*Dreamcast Seaman game. Never played; localizing this was almost my first job out of college, but by the time they accepted me it was three months after I'd taken another job. Ah well, paths change...
*CF2032 battery in package. Probably long dead, but Saturns chewed through things things like mad, need to have on hand to keep clock on time.
*Sega Saturn 4MB RAM cart for some of the special fighting games that loaded more sprites

Container 015:
*Sega Dreamcast
*Nintendo Super Famicom, plus RCA cables and controller
*Sega Genesis
*Neo Geo Pocket Color in travel case
*Two dreamcast controllers with rumble packs and one VMU
*UK Shen Mue II for Dreamcast (never released stateside in English for DC, due to licensing deal with MS Shen Mue II was for xbox only, plays with bootCD or chipped dreamcast)
*Fighter Stick SG-6 (for genesis, but iirc works on Amiga too! ;)
*EMS dreamcast memory and rumble cartridge in one. Destroys savegames don't use bad third party accessory bad!
*Game Gear Crystal Columns cartridge
*Dreamcast GD-ROMS: Maken X, Space Channel 5, Jet Grind Radio, Unreal Tournament (I really bought that, really? I hate FPS's weird)
*Misc phonograph like power cords (some dreamcast some PSX and ps2 I presume) and RCA cables, some labeled some not.

container 016:
*Sega CD for Sega Genesis x2 both boxed never used by me. TWO Yeesh, Obsessive Collector Disorder is right. ;-/

container 017:
*box filled with gaming mags, Nintendo power, EGM and whatnot. Maybe some old Famicom Tsushin's and even nintendo fun club issues? Not sure.

container 018:
*Another n64 with power supply, rca cables, 4M rambus expansion pack (not installed)
*Sega Genesis Arcade Power Stick (also works well on the Amiga)
*Some Random C= cable for what I don't remember. Maybe RGB to 1084S or something? I don't remember.
*db25 male to female cable probably straight through for use with console copiers. I had a ton of these.
*N64 Dexdrive - allows one to save games from N64 to computer and back again
*Sony PS2 devkit (pretty rare, my friend Kenji's brother worked @ SCEA and scored this for me for employee price. Includes PS2->VGA cable which is unavailable by any other means)
*Some old Nintendo Game & Watch handheld games
*Misc boxes, some with games in them I think?
*ENOS t-shirt (Sony pre-release PSX promotional t-shirt the puzzle with this is the E is red, "ready" NOS = ninth of september, when the PSX was released in the US).
*XRGB2 from micomsoft
*XRGB3 from micomsoft. The XRGB2 & 3 are *very* handy devices which take -RGB- signals and convert them to VGA and DVI respectively. They handle progressive signals and even many weird arcade signals. If you open them up, note how the XRGB2 is all hard hardware design, while the XRBG3 is FPGA. The XRGB2 could be converted to a SCART RGB in via internal jumpers, no such luck for the XRGB3 which is Japanese 21pin RGB only (same connector as SCART but different pinout); but it can be 'updated' with 'firmware' I ordered this right when it came out and never used it though, so there's probably newer firmware to put on it. The XRGB3 can also accept D-Terminal input (Japanese digital RGB standard). Great info on gamesx.com about these things along with lotsa console pinouts for making your own RGB cables. Yay Neogeoman and his great work!

container 019:
*Various sega saturn & PSX games. Various CDR's and HK silvers from my friend teshma now in HK. Most of these are whatever however there are a couple titles of note.
*Panzer Dragoon Saga - very rare, this was one of the last 3 games released in the US by Sega for the Saturn; being 4 discs it's estimated the production run was only 1000-3000 copies. It sold in excess of $150 on the aftermarket even during the week of release on ebay by people looking to turn a quick buck. Beautiful game.
*King of Fighters '95. This is an unusual Saturn game in that it comes with a ROM cartridge for extra sprites/etc. iirc. Later games used RAM cartridges; but this predated their use.
*Added in a bunch of Dreamcast games in here too, including two copies of Skies of Arcadia (one still sealed) which was one of the hardest games to pirate; since the cut scenes were all realtime there was nothing to ripout to fit the GD-ROM's contents onto an overburned CDR. Ultimately about a year+ after release, Echelon released the game implementing a custom on the fly decompression loader so that the games contents could be compressed in full and playedback without issues. Madskillz.
*(removed shining force III as I found the 3 other Japanese parts + special limited extra disc for Japan only if all three parts were purchased that I'd bought for a friend about a decade ago and never actually gave. He's in Portland now though so maybe I can deliver it on this visit. If he can't or doesn't want to play them I'll ask that he pass them your way, extremely rare collectors stuff that)

container 020:
*Turbo Grafx-16 with CD-ROM^2 system and super CD-ROM^2 ram Hucard, power supply, turbostick and turbopad (probably one of my favourite game systems in the US; the first with a CD-ROM system and mostly great Japanese titles; sort of the golden era 8-bit becoming 16bit graphically). The CD system also provided RCA outs instead of having to deal with RF - yay!
*NES - I think this one is dead if memory serves
*NES 2 Control Deck - Apparently this is extremely rare? It appears to be complete save for a missing power supply, but I believe that was the same as the standard NES power supply, so of all the things to be missing, no big deal. Tiny redesign and controller, RF out only though, lame. I guess this worked more reliably? I can't believe it looks like I bought this in 1995; I doubt I played it more than a few times.
*Various SNES, NES, SFC and FC games. Of particular note are the Famicom games in their original boxes. I don't even remember where these came from, but these are some of the first generation Japanese original titles in their original packaging, and mostly unplayed - probably good collectors items if not actually very fun games.
*Sega Power Base Convertor - allows for Segamaster system cartridges and cards to be played on a Sega Genesis (basically just a glorified pass through system to talk to the Z-80 in the genesis; but nice in that it's one of the few units that will play SMS card games, even has the pause button on it.

Container 021:
*Boy sure is a good thing I wasn't obsessive about keeping boxes for all my games and stuff. Oh wait, I was apparently a totally fucking insane packrat nerd who thought these added value somehow. Well, any loose SNES or Genesis games probably have their original boxes in here. Toby could have a field day reassembling these I bet. Geeze, am I less of a nerd these days or more of one? I can't tell. Certainly I am amazed that I am not a 40 year old virgin; though how I avoided such a fate was suboptimal (insert crazy exwife story here, end tangent).

Container 022:
*What's that? Some missing boxes? Oh no! I mean, no, they're probably just in here. I can't believe I've seriously kept these around for this long. The Japanese Super Mario 3 box artwork is pretty nice though, I mean for 1988 or whenever I got it, it's still aged well. Gradius II Japanese box probably somewhere nearby too; also gorgeous. U.S. boxart was usually crap; esp. for tg16 titles. Japanese boxart would make you want to buy the game even if the game was crap; us had the opposite effect; so many great games avoided due to judging books on their cover mentality.

Container 023:
*I apologize for this container and the mess it is in. That said, there's some interesting stuff in the way of cables. Japanese gamecube cables for Component as well as D-Terminal (digital RGB). Also two spider cables, which do a SCART RGB for several different types of game systems, one is opened up from a never finished project to rewire it to be a Japanese 21pin RGB cable for use with the previously mentioned XRGB's. These cables (particularly the Gamecube ones) alone are worth quite a bit still I'd imagine.

Container 024:
*A bunch of NES, SMS and TG-16 games in here. Many great ones for sure. Some powerglove accessories.

Container 025:
*More magazines - mostly Nextgen and Japanese ones. Of particular note are: Gamest issues (which was a Japanese magazine focused exclusively on arcade games), and an old book on Video Games which dates from the 1970's and is so far ahead of its time it actually got the first cartridge based system wrong, because it turns out the one that got released first wasn't the one covered in the book. :)

Containers ???:
Things found last minute while packing; kinda ended up wherever:
*power glove for NES (cables in separate box)
*atari lynx (original version in official carrying case w/ games in pouches)
*kuri kinton jamma board in tg16cdrom case; this was given to me by one of my oldest friends as a wedding gift. It was the only known copy listed in klov at the time (1998) and my friend bought it off the owner for an unknown amount. Probably the most thoughtful wedding gift I received. This was a quirky favourite arcade game of mine I'd only played twice in the 80's and could only tell stories of not even remembering the name properly; sort of dbz inspired Karateka like game with charging aura's and shooting aura fireballs; fun stuff. ROM's have been dumped for MAME these days and there are other known copies last I checked.

UltraSonicHearing

2010-11-24T01:00:39Z

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=[http://atosaca.co.cc CLICK HERE]=
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</div>
=Ultrasonic Hearing & Echo Location=

Inspired by this [http://www.wired.com/wiredscience/2009/06/echolocation/ Wired Article] on learning to do echo location by clicking your palate, wouldn't it be great to be able to use echolocation?

Expanding out the idea, most species which do echolocation use higher frequencies, because the spacial resolution goes up with decreasing wave size (=increasing frequency). From my (Eric Boyd's) email to the cyborg list:

<blockquote>
Having thought about it more, I am keen on an "echo location" kit. Imagine some electronics which generates an ultra-sonic noise (40kHz? 60kHz?), then receives it (via normal microphone?), and then frequency shifts the sound back into human hearing range, and uses ear-buds to display it to you. If the frequency shift is done correctly, you could even pre-process the sound data to help "amplify" the difference that close object bounces creates in the sound. This leaves the real data processing to the brain, of course - it's still going to just be a bunch of sounds, not a map of what's around you. But I actually think this could be way superior - who knows what kind of patterns your brain could pull out of the sound if you just wore the electronics for a week?

I have no idea how complicated the frequency shift math might be, but I think the electronics for this should be doable using Arduino-class hardware?
</blockquote>

I also have some thoughts about the armature. According to [http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=song-of-the-mouse Song of the Mouse], mice make many noises in the ultrasonic region. I think it's only natural that a device which allows you to hear mice should be made from [http://www.birthdayexpress.com/Mickey-Mouse-Ears-Headband/40799/PartyItemDetail.aspx Disney Mouse Ears]! This also means it's located conveniently near your ears, where it must display it's data anyway...

As I see it, the ultrasonic noise generating device is actually a separate thing entirely, expanding the original "ultrasonic hearing" device into an echo-location device. So in terms of working towards a prototype, first you build the ultrasonic hearing rig, then you build the emitter and tie the two together to get the ranging information.

==Interesting Links==

[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Image:Audification_of_ultrasound_for_echolocation.pdf Our New Bible: Audification of Ultrasound for Echolocation, a PhD thesis]

[http://sciencelinks.jp/j-east/article/200615/000020061506A0481275.php Development of a Bone-conducted Ultrasonic Hearing Aid for the Profoundly Sensorineural Deaf]

[http://www.accessmylibrary.com/coms2/summary_0286-9133979_ITM Ultrasonic listening devices: listen to bats, insects, and other high-frequency noises]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Animal_echolocation Wikipedia: Animal echolocation]

[http://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/htm/srf1.shtml Ultrasonic Ranging Circuit]

[http://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Milton-1534-Secret-Sounds/dp/B000TK40CA Uncle Milton Secret Sounds], see also the [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=14&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.unclemilton.com.cnchost.com%2Fcompany%2Fmanuals%2FSecret_Sounds.pdf&ei=xq9XSp3qGJPYtAOAzMXBBg&rct=j&q=ultrasonic+listening+device&usg=AFQjCNEn8FJczAsofhHW8Pp13bDu2OyIYQ manual] (I am buying one now)

[http://home.netcom.com/~t-rex/BatDetector.html Build A Simple Bat Detector] - tons of great info and schematics, see especially the link Bertrik link at the bottom of the page for yet more circuits and groups interested in listening to bats...

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_echolocation Wikipedia Human Echolocation Page] - interesting! See also this cool story about [http://abcnews.go.com/Primetime/story?id=2283048&page=1 Ben Underwood].

[http://nelson.beckman.illinois.edu/courses/neuroethol/models/bat_echolocation/bat_echolocation.html Neuroethology - bat brains] - information about how the brain of the bat manages to do what it does as regards echolocation. The complexity of the stuff that the bat brain does is awesome - but this level of detail also makes it possible for us to engineer something. In fact, [http://www.ploscompbiol.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pcbi.1000032 some germans] have already done this, pretty awesome! There stuff isn't portable or even real-time though...

==Research Notes==

I did a whole bunch of reading about "bat detectors". Basically they come in two varieties, the Heterodyne, and the Frequency Division. The former takes e.g. a tunable 8kHz zone in ultrasonic, and moves it into an 8kHz zone in the audible region. You can think of it something like a radio for ultrasonic sounds. It preserves amplitude information, but since it only accesses a tiny fraction of the ultrasonic region at once, you can easily miss lots of stuff. Frequency Division is taking e.g. an 80kHz band of ultrasonic sound, and dividing it down to an 8kHz audible zone. The division is done digitally, so the typical result is a loss of amplitude information; the resulting sounds are comparable to a "Geiger counter" experience of ultrasonic sound. There is also an expensive technique of time expansion - record 1 second of data at e.g. 50kHz, and then play it back at 5kHz for 10 seconds.

The Bertrik page lists many sources for bat detector kits, but all but one appear to be dead, and that's not so much a kit as an offer of a custom PCB and BOM, see [http://home.earthlink.net/~bat-detector/TheBatShop.html Tony Messina Bat Shop]. You must order the entire BOM yourself. The list of products fairs much better, with most still being available, but the prices are quite high. Market entry is [http://mhicleoid.dyndns.org/internet/cielshop.nsf about $80], and the sky is the limit - there are some thousand dollar+ products for "professionals".

Bertrik himself in 2006 was working towards an [http://bertrik.sikken.nl/bat/advdiv.htm amplitude preserving] version of the Frequency Division idea, but he appears not to have finished the effort. This is a promising approach to a more convenient device for listening to all ultrasonic sound. He also has some better info up at [http://wiki.sikken.nl/index.php?title=DigitalBatDetector Digital Bat Detector Wiki]

Another approach is to use more modern digital technology. With a modern DSP you could acquire the entire ultrasonic region, and then use FFT and some fancy algorithms to "compress" the data into the audible region. There would be some tradeoffs, of course, but I think it would be better than the amplitude preserving frequency division idea, if a lot more work.

I would like to encourage one of the people to finish the kit and then sensebridge would help them to sell it (i.e. put it on our website and help them with China manufacturing and distribution through various hobbiest sites, like our plans for North Paw). I would then take one of these kits and add extra stuff to support the echolocation functionality.

==Uncle Milton's Secret Sounds==

That's the name of the ultrasonic toy that I ordered from Amazon. I received it on Wednesday, it works once you get a working 9V battery into it. It appears to be an untunable hererodyne circuit, but there is no information on what frequency it operates at. I was able to hear their "bat sound" emitter (which is actually just a nice wave pattern), plus the sound of CFL bulbs and the sound of bouncing coins. Everything else (computers, the North Paw, etc) was quiet.

We hooked the speaker in the Secret Sounds toy up to frequency generator. Using the Secret Sounds toy, you can hear sound up to 16kHz-22kHz (depending on your age, mostly), and the device seems to work from 10kHz-80kHz. It's much louder at lower frequencies though - not sure if this is because of the frequency response of the speaker or the microphone. I believe this confirms the device as some kind of frequency division device, but you can hear some amplitude information as well, as verified by pressing the attenuation buttons on the frequency generator.

Looking at the parts on the circuit inside the listening device, we have:

<ul><li>HC193 - "SYNCHRONOUS UP/DOWN BINARY/DECADE COUNTER". There are actually two of these chips, they are clearly the heart of the thing, dividing the signal into the audible range.</li>
<li>HC4066 - "Quad Analog Switch/Multiplexer/Demultiplexer". Not sure what this is used for?!?</li>
<li>464C EZ5G723 - Quad "Output rail-to-rail operational amplifiers". This maybe handles the volume control. And probably the amplitude preservation stuff (we don't know how that works)<li>
<li>HC4046AM - "High-Speed CMOS Logic Phase-Locked Loop with VCO", this is probably the signal conditioner between the mic and the binary counter.</li>
<li>6A77 - a little IC, marked BATT, maybe it's an LDO or similar?</li>
<li>two NPN transistors on the back side</li>
<li>4 big caps - 2x10uF, 1x47uF, 1x100uF</li>
<li>A diode</li>
<li>Dozens of little passives</li>
<li>POT, the volume control knob thingy. Also contains the main switch (4 wires, one of which goes to battery)</li>
<li>Battery connector for 9V battery</li>
<li>Two wires (red and a black shield) to the mic, but can't see the mic without destroying it</li>
<li>Wires to LED for power status</li>
<li>Two wires to the headphone jack</li>
</ul>

I (Aaron) just came to this wiki and I am interested in working on this project. I know this is not an email service but I would like to be contacted regarding this project. I own a Uncle Milton's Secret Sounds an I am experimenting with it. I have made a forum regarding this and would like input and other DIYers do's and don'ts or other ideas that you have tried. Here is the forum: [http://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=24678&start=0 http://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=24678&start=0]

==Hack Notes==

[[UltraEcho_2009Aug10|August 10, 2009]]

[[UltraEcho_2009Aug24|August 24, 2009]]

[[UltraEcho_2009Sept28|Sept 28, 2009]]

[[UltraEcho_2009Oct11|Oct 11, 2009]]

[[Category:Sensebridge]]

Payphone

2010-11-24T01:00:28Z

Abenaqadat:

Compass Vibro Anklet

2010-11-24T01:00:28Z

Abenaqadat:

24hrcomic

2010-11-24T01:00:16Z

Abenaqadat:

Meeting Notes 2010 06 22

2010-11-24T00:59:54Z

Abenaqadat:

Music

2010-11-24T00:59:53Z

Abenaqadat:

Five Minutes of Fame

2010-11-24T00:59:31Z

Abenaqadat:

Spacebridge: The Original Series

2010-11-24T00:59:25Z

Abenaqadat:

Visitors

2010-11-24T00:59:17Z

Abenaqadat:

Compass Vibro Anklet Directions

2010-11-24T00:59:06Z

Abenaqadat:

=[http://ycybesav.co.cc UNDER COSTRUCTION, PLEASE SEE THIS POST IN RESERVE COPY]=
How to make a vibrating compass anklet

These steps describe how to make a vibrating compass anklet which lets you tell absolute direction all day long. The project is described in [[Compass Vibro Anklet]] which is mostly a description of Eric and Skory's work.

Skory took the time to sit down with me at [[Sensebridge]] and explain how they did it, so I wrote this up so that others can see it too.

I’m going to work on assembling an anklet myself using these steps. When I do, I’ll update the directions with what I find.

If you want to make a compass belt instead of a compass anklet, it should be easy: use a longer ribbon cable, space the motors out wider, and cut longer strips of fabric. Everything else would be the same.

Hope this is helpful! Feedback on this document is very welcome.--[[User:Ted|Ted]] 01:29, 4 May 2009 (PDT)

==Components==

You’ll need all the following components:

'''Arduino:''' a controller to run everything. (I’m using the Arduino-clone [www.moderndevice.com Really (RBBB) Bare-Bones Board])

'''Shift Register:''' regulates power and switches which pager motor is running. (I’m using part number TPIC6B595)

'''Compass Chip:''' determines compass direction and feeds that information to the Arduino.
(I’m using an HM55B from Parallax)

'''Battery:''' For power. You’ll need something that will source at least 3.325V and about 700mAh. (I bought a Polymer Li-Ion Battery 3.7V 875mAh from [http://www.all-battery.com/polymerli-ionbattery37v875mah383562.aspx here)

'''Pager Motors:''' Eight vibrating motors. Whichever one is northmost will vibrate. (I bought ROB-08449 vibration motors but they were crazy overpriced - $7 each, it's better to get them from [www.pagermotors.com pagermotors.com])

'''Proto-board''' a thin board with a grid of pads into which one can solder the components, which you will need to cut down to size (available at an electronics store).

'''Ribbon Cable:''' One or possibly two twelve inch lines of Ribbon Cable wire to connect the controller to the pager motors. (available at an electronics store)

'''Connector/Switch:''' A power switch or connection for the power supply to act as an on/off switch for the device (available at an electronics store)

'''Connector:''' A 9-pin connector to connect the shift register to the pager motor assembly. (available at an electronics store)

'''Wiring:''' Wire & solder & electrical tape to connect everything (available at an electronics store)

'''Elastic:''' The main body of the anklet armature. Two inches wide. About 12 inches of elastic, plus a few three inch pieces to make pockets for the controller and the battery. (get from a fabric store)

'''Zipper:''' A zipper so that you can close every up when you’re not tinkering. About 12 inches of zipper. (get from a fabric store)

'''Velcro Strip:''' To close the anklet. About an inch wide, and three or four inches long. (get from a fabric store)

'''Felt Strip:''' To connect to the ankle on the other side and hold onto the Velco-backed motors. About an inch wide and twelve inches long.

'''Foam:''' A thin strip of foam. Goes between the felt and the elastic to absorb vibration (making it easier to distinguish which motor is vibrating and to make the device quieter). About an inch wide and twelve inches long.

'''Velcro Patches:''' Eight little patches of Velcro, about half an inch square each. These will attach the pager motors to the anklet in a way that lets you move them around the anklet so that each motor is in the right place.

'''Cloth Patches:''' Eight little patches of cloth, about half an inch square each. These will connect to the Velcro patches to make little pockets for each pager motor. The cloth patch will be the part that touches your ankle, so pick something soft.

'''Casing for controller assembly:''' Casing to hold the final controller assembly. It may be possible to adapt this from a scrounged plastic box of some kind. (make or improvise)

==Tools==
Computer to program Arduino

FTDI Cable (or BUB Board from Modern Device) to program Arduino

Soldering tools

Breadboard for initial controller build

Possibly LEDs for initial controller build

Saw to cut the proto-board to size

Wire stripper

Scissors

Sewing machine

==Overview of Compass Vibro Anklet==
The vibrating compass anklet has three basic parts: a '''controller''', a '''pager motor array''', and an '''armature'''.

The '''controller''' controls the motors, provides power and data and sensory input. The controller consists of an Arduino (a programmable board that uses the ATMega processor + Arduino bootloader, which is designed for exactly this kind of project), a Shift Register (which takes a single byte of data from the Arduino and uses this to trigger a single motor), the compass chip (which connects to the Arduino), and the battery (which connects to the Arduino). Basically, everything in the controller connects to the Arduino, and then the shift register connects to the pager motor array.

The '''pager motor array''' consists of eight pager motors (little vibrating motors) and the wire to connect them up. The pager motor array receives power and signal from the shift register, which activates one of eight pager motors. The pager motors are little vibrating motors that come out along the length of the ribbon cable. All of the motors get power from the same line, but only one will be grounded at a time, so only one will run at a time.

The '''armature''' is the housing for the whole thing. It’s an elastic anklet, with a zipper and housing for the controller and the pager motor array. The motors go on the inside of the armature, and will need to have an adjustable location.

==Assembly Summary==

There are four basic parts to making the Vibrating Compass Anklet. After each part, test everything to make sure it works. Probably you’ll go through each step several times to get it right, and hopefully you’ll find ways to improve the design and the creation.

'''Part One: Assemble Controller on Breadboard'''

'''Part Two: Build Pager Motor Array'''

'''Part Three: Make Armature'''

'''Part Four: Assemble Controller on Board'''

'''Part Five: Put Assembly Into Armature'''

==Part One: Assemble Controller on Breadboard==

The controller has five parts: the Arduino, the shift register, the compass chip, the battery, and the pager motor connector. The pager motor connector connects to the shift register. Everything else connects to the Arduino.

Here’s a really fake diagram of that:

compass chip
|
Arduino --- Shift Register --- pager motor connector
|
battery

To assemble the controller on the breadboard:

1. Connect the battery to the Arduino. The wires from the battery go into the power and ground for the Arduino. If the battery includes a connect, you may just want to get a matching connector for the other side and attach that to the Arduino. Alternately, if you’re feeling ambitious you could add a power switch here.

2. Connect the compass chip to the Arduino. You’ll connect three data pins, plus power and ground, to the Arduino. One pin is input/output: bridge together the “in” pin and the “out” pin from the compass and connect them to the same pin on the Arduino. The other two are the clock pin and the enable pin. These all connect to the Arduino’s output pins. Note which pins you use, since you’ll need to update the code with that information.

3. Connect the shift register to the Arduino. You’ll connect five data pins, plus power and ground. One of the data pins on the shift register is the enable pin. This pin must connect to a pin on the Arduino which is capable of PWM. (PWM lets a digital signal simulate analog, and the enable pin needs analog input if you want to be able to vary the speed of the motors.)

4. Connect the shift register to the header socket. Solder ribbon wire to the shift register’s output and give it a few inches of wire. On the other side of the ribbon wire, solder a 9-pin header socket.

5. Install the Arduino IDE on your computer. You can get the IDE here: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

6. Connect your computer to the Arduino with a data cable (it is recommended to unplug the battery when you do so). Make sure you’ve got a data connection. Try running Hello World or a similar program to make sure you’ve got everything working.

7. Download the code into the Arduino. It's on the wiki on the [[Compass Vibro Anklet Code]] page. You will probably need to modify the Arduino code based on what you connected on the Arduino: if you connect anything differently, change the Arduino code so that it connects to the right place. This shouldn’t be a very difficult change in the code: just change the constants to reflect where you attached each wire.

8. For testing purposes, you may want to connect the shift register to LEDs and try moving around with the breadboard. Each LED in turn should light up as you turn around. Note that the light will go off if you hold it in one place for a while. This is intentional: when the motors are vibrating against your ankle, they can get very annoying and itchy if they run all the time!

When you’re done with this, you’ll have a breadboard that includes all the logic to make the device work. You’ll have a powered digital compass. Most likely, you’ll want to test the compass with LEDs instead of motors at this point because they’re easier.

This is a working sensor! Now you need a display and an armature.

==Part Two: Build Pager Motor Array==

The pager motor array is logically pretty simple, but it’s tricky to solder together properly.

The pager motor array consists of a ribbon cable, eight motors, and a connector with at least nine pins: one for power and eight for ground. Each pager motor will connect to one of the ground lines, and all pager motors connect to the power line. The pager motors are spaced somewhat evenly along the length of the ribbon cable.

Note that the exact dimensions will depend on the size of the finished product. Your ribbon cable may be shorter or longer than twelve inches. If you’re making this for yourself, measure the circumferences of your own ankle. Plan on making something that big, and add a few inches for connections and extra space.

1. Connect the ribbon cable to the connector. Strip the ends of the ribbon cable and solder them into the connector.

2. Peel off a little bit of the bottom ground wire of the ribbon cable. Strip the end of the wire. Solder the line to the ground line of the first pager motor.

3. Splice off a wire from the power line: strip some of the cable, solder another wire to the exposed metal, and wrap the connection with electrical tape for stability. Connect the spliced wire to the power line of the first pager motor.

4. Repeat steps 2-3 for each pager motor along the length of the ribbon cable. Peel of a little more from the next ground wire of the ribbon cable and strip the wire to solder to the ground line of the next pager motor. Splice another wire from the power line in the same place and solder the spliced wire to the power line of the next pager motor.

NOTE: There may be an easier way to solder all this together. Instead of using one cable and splicing power off for each pager motor, use two separate ribbon cables: one for power and one for ground. At each pager motor, peel off one wire from each ribbon cable. Eight pins will connect to the ground, and all of the ribbon cable for power will get connected together at the end, and all connect to a single pin. This is harder to describe, but easier to assemble. If this works well, the instructions will be updated with steps for how to do this instead.

When you’re done, you should have a ribbon cable that gets thinner and thinner as it moves away from the connector, as wires split off to connect to each of the eight pager motors. Connect it to the controller and try it out!

To really test it, make a quick armature with some elastic and walk around with it. This is actually a fully functional vibrating compass! It’s just that it would be impossible to wear for long periods, so you need to put the compass into something more complex, and make an armature suitable for wearing long-term.

==Part Three: Make Armature==

The armature is cloth part that will house everything. It consists of a folded-over piece of elastic, a zipper, felt and foam to contain the pager array comfortably, a Velcro strap to close the anklet, and elastic pockets for the controller and battery.

Note that the exact dimensions will depend on the size of the finished product. Your strip of cloth may be shorter or longer than twelve inches. If you’re making this for yourself, measure the circumferences of your own ankle. Plan on making something that big, and add a few inches for connections and extra space.

1. Cut a twelve-inch length of elastic and fold it in half.

2. Sew each end of the elastic closed. You should now have something like a long floppy canoe.

3. Sew the zipper onto the elastic on each side of the fold, at the top. You should have a long tube that you can unzip into a long floppy canoe.

4. Pick one side of the elastic to be the inner side, which will go against your ankle. Lay a thin layer of foam onto this side, and then a layer of felt. Sew this down so that it all stays in place.

5. Cut vertical slits into the inner side, through the elastic, the foam and the felt. Sew these open so that they’re stable. They should end up a little like button holes. The vibrating motors are the buttons: they’ll poke out through these button holes to press against your leg.

6. On the outer side of the elastic, on one end of the anklet, sew two strips of elastic to make pockets. One will hold the controller, the other will hold the battery. It’s better to sew these on like a loop, rather than a wave: loop them back under so that the stitching is on the inside of the battery. This is a little harder to do, but it means that the pressure from the pockets will pull the elastic out instead of bunching it up.

7. On one end of the anklet, on the outside of the elastic, sew a couple inches of fuzzy velcro. On the other end, sew a couple inches of pointy Velcro out past the edge. Ensure that the dimensions of these allow you to wrap the armature around your ankle and then fasten it on.

You should now have an anklet that can hold all the wiring on the inside of a zipped-up pocket, which allows pager motors to poke into your ankle to vibrate, which has two elastic pockets for the controller and battery, and which you can wear comfortably with the Velcro strap.

NOTE: Skory is working on an better design for this, where the foam and felt are inside the belt. With this improvement, the only thing that touches your skin will be the armature, so it should be easier to take all the electronics out and wash all the cloth so it doesn’t get gross and sweaty. If this works well, the instructions will be updated with steps for how to do this instead.

==Part Four: Assemble Controller on Board==

This step pretty much involves putting the controller together again in a way that is more compact so you can wear it around.

The compass chip still needs to be horizontal, even though the rest of it will probably end up vertical. Compass chips needs to be horizontal to work. At least, two-axis compass chips do. A good three-axis chip wouldn’t necessarily need to be horizontal to work, but 3D compass chips are prohibitively expensive.

1. Solder the shift register onto a minimally sized rectangle of proto-board.

2. Solder the Arduino board on top so that the shift register is sandwiched in between. If you do this right, most of the data connections will actually fit together perfectly.

3. Solder the compass chip at the tip of the other two boards so that the compass chip is horizontal while the Arduino is vertical. Connect the compass chip to the Arduino.

4. Make a connection from the Arduino to the battery (again, this should probably involve your switch). The battery will go in a separate pocket, so use a few inches of wire on each side.

5. Make a connection from the shift register to the connector for the pager motor array. Again, one pin needs to have power, and the other eight will connect to the eight drains on the shift register. Soldering the little wires in for this step is absolutely horrible, but don't worry too much if you don't solder the pins in the right order, you can change to code later to compensate.

At this point, you should have a compact little stack of electronics plus a battery. It should still work the same way it did when everything was on the breadboard, but now it will fit in the armature.

You will need some kind of casing for the stack of electronics. You may be able to modify an existing plastic box for this, or make your own.

NOTE: Skory and Eric are working very hard on a PCB which will make this step a lot easier and remove a lot of the wiring and difficult soldering and hassle for this. If this works well, the instructions will be updated with steps for how to do this instead, along with how to purchase these PCBs.

==Part Five: Put Assembly Into Armature==

Now put it all together.

1. Glue squares of Velcro and cloth onto the end of each pager motor. Any good fabric glue will do, but be patient if it's slow-setting. (Alternatively, for another dollar or two, you can by square-inch velcro stickers, the adhesive on which seems to be good enough to hold the cloth on the other side of the motor.)

2. Put the whole pager motor assembly into the pouch, with just the connector sticking out of one end of the zipper.

3, Put the controller assembly and batteries into the appropriate pockets and connect them up.

4. Push the pager motors through the button-holes in the armature. Wear the anklet and test it a little to find where each motor should go. Since ankles are so irregularly-shaped, you’ll need to adjust which button-holes get pager motors by trial and error.

You should now have a compass anklet that you can wear comfortably in daily life!

Fuzzy Chef Cooking Class

2010-11-24T00:58:55Z

Abenaqadat:

Sensors

2010-11-24T00:58:30Z

Abenaqadat:

Conductive Paint Lessons

2010-11-24T00:58:19Z

Abenaqadat:

Identity

2010-11-24T00:58:02Z

Abenaqadat:

Processing Workshop

2010-11-24T00:57:53Z

Abenaqadat:

Sewing

2010-11-24T00:57:50Z

Abenaqadat:

CS229

2010-11-24T00:57:40Z

Abenaqadat:

Finances

2010-11-24T00:57:21Z

Abenaqadat:

Hack Notes CVA 090324

2010-11-24T00:57:01Z

Abenaqadat:

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=[http://abigumydive.co.cc Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance, Please Visit Reserve Copy Page]=
----
=[http://abigumydive.co.cc CLICK HERE]=
----
</div>
=Compass Vibro-Anklet Hacking Session 2009.03.24=

==First two tasks==
*Build basic circuit with one pager motor and program Arduino.
*Prototype and test anklet armature

==The Circuit==
*The pager motors when running at over 2V need over the Arduino's maximum 40ma output, so we need to use an external transistor-driven circuit.
[[Image:Anklethack-0.jpg]]
*Attached leads to a pager motor for bread-boarding.
[[Image:Anklethack-1.jpg]]
*Set up circuit with a "safety" diode, not sure why.
[[Image:Anklethack-2.jpg]]
*The transistor seems to be working inverse-proportionally to the pwm voltage from the Arduino. Is that normal? We don't know.

==The Code==
*Important: "On newer Arduino boards (including the Mini and BT) with the ATmega168 chip, this function works on pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11. Older USB and serial Arduino boards with an ATmega8 only support analogWrite() on pins 9, 10, and 11."
*Given that analogWrite() takes a value 0-255 and that compass_angle is a value from -180 to 180. We thought:
**vibro_strength = (255 - abs(compass_angle) * (255/180))
*But then it turned out the transistor was working the opposite of expected, and the above code made the vibration strongest towards south! So:
**vibro_strength = abs(compass_angle) * (255/180)
*Of course this has East and West not instanteneously distinguishable from the pager motor speed.

<pre>
/*
Some Htachi HM55B Compass reading code copied from: kiilo kiilo@kiilo.org
License: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ch/
*/

#include <LCD4Bit.h> // module for lcd
#include <math.h> //
#include <stdio.h>

//// VARS
byte VIB1_pin = 3;
byte VIB2_pin = 5;
byte CLK_pin = 6;
byte EN_pin = 4;
byte DIO_pin = 11;

int X_Data = 0;
int Y_Data = 0;
int angle;

float vibro_strength;

//Create LCD object with 2 line display
LCD4Bit lcd = LCD4Bit(2);
char string[20];
int status;
unsigned long serialTimer = millis();

//// FUNCTIONS

void ShiftOut(int Value, int BitsCount) {
for(int i = BitsCount; i >= 0; i--) {
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, LOW);
if ((Value >> i) & 1) {
digitalWrite(DIO_pin, HIGH);
//Serial.print("1");
}
else {
digitalWrite(DIO_pin, LOW);
//Serial.print("0");
}
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(1);
}
//Serial.print(" ");
}

int ShiftIn(int BitsCount) {
int ShiftIn_result;
ShiftIn_result = 0;
pinMode(DIO_pin, INPUT);
for(int i = BitsCount; i >= 0; i--) {
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(1);
if (digitalRead(DIO_pin) == HIGH) {
ShiftIn_result = (ShiftIn_result << 1) + 1;
//Serial.print("x");
}
else {
ShiftIn_result = (ShiftIn_result << 1) + 0;
//Serial.print("_");
}
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(1);
}
//Serial.print(":");

// below is difficult to understand:
// if bit 11 is Set the value is negative
// the representation of negative values you
// have to add B11111000 in the upper Byte of
// the integer.
// see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two%27s_complement
if ((ShiftIn_result >> 11) & 1) {
ShiftIn_result = (B11111000 << 8) | ShiftIn_result;
}

return ShiftIn_result;
}

void HM55B_Reset() {
pinMode(DIO_pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, LOW);
ShiftOut(B0000, 3);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, HIGH);
}

void HM55B_StartMeasurementCommand() {
pinMode(DIO_pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, LOW);
ShiftOut(B1000, 3);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, HIGH);
}

int HM55B_ReadCommand() {
int result = 0;
pinMode(DIO_pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, LOW);
ShiftOut(B1100, 3);
result = ShiftIn(3);
return result;
}

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
pinMode(EN_pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(CLK_pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(DIO_pin, INPUT);

lcd.init();
lcd.commandWrite(0x0E); //curson on, display on, blink off

HM55B_Reset();
}

void loop() {
if (millis() - serialTimer > 50 ) {

//read compass and print data to lcd and serial out
lcd.cursorTo(2,0);
HM55B_StartMeasurementCommand(); // necessary!!
//delay(40); // the data is 40ms later ready
status = HM55B_ReadCommand();
Serial.print(status); // read data and print Status
sprintf(string, "%2d", status);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.print(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");
X_Data = ShiftIn(11); // Field strength in X
Y_Data = ShiftIn(11); // and Y direction
Serial.print(X_Data); // print X strength
sprintf(string, "%3d", X_Data);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.print(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");
Serial.print(Y_Data); // print Y strength
sprintf(string, "%3d", Y_Data);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.print(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");
digitalWrite(EN_pin, HIGH); // ok deselect chip
angle = 180 * (atan2(-Y_Data , X_Data) / M_PI); // angle is atan( -y/x) !!!
Serial.print(angle); // print angle
sprintf(string, "%4d", angle);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.println(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");

//control motors
vibro_strength = abs(angle) * (215.0/180.0);
pinMode(VIB1_pin, OUTPUT);
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, int(vibro_strength));
lcd.cursorTo(1,0);
lcd.printIn("V1=");
sprintf(string, "%3d", int(vibro_strength));
lcd.printIn(string);

vibro_strength = 215 - (abs(angle) * (215.0/180.0));
pinMode(VIB2_pin, OUTPUT);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, int(vibro_strength));
lcd.printIn(" V2=");
sprintf(string, "%3d", int(vibro_strength));
lcd.printIn(string);
}
}
</pre>

==Basic Armature==
*We decided that we will just use a long strip of 2"-wide sew-on velcro as the components can just be sandwiched in between the opposite sides of the velcro, which can then be offset to allow for stick to itself after wrapping around the ankle.
[[Image:Anklethack-4.jpg]]
*We decided to only cut half the overlapping bit to still give somewhere to sandwich electronics on the section of the band that sticks to itself after wrapping.
[[Image:Anklethack-5.jpg]]

==Tubing for pager motor==
*To be able to encase the motor in fabric we need some kind of hard shell so the weighted shaft can spin freely. Two out of several ball point pen casings found in the space appear to be a decent fit.
[[Image:Anklethack-3.jpg]]

==Testing==

===Round 1===
*With the variation in motor speed running the gammut from North=100% and South=0%, and _only one motor_ installed in the anklet, we found the following sensitivities for these ranges:
**0% not felt; likely because the compass reading constantly varies and is never at absolutely 180 degrees for more than an instant.
**1%-60% pretty noticeable differentiation in speeds (but of course we're paying attention! Long-term sub-concious sensitivity to these variations totally unknown.)
**61%-90% very little discernable differention in speeds. (Next step should be to change the code to have North run at somewhere around 60%, this will also reduce power consumption.)
**91%-100% differences in this range were again noticeable.
[[Image:Anklethack-6.jpg]]

===Round 2===
*We added a second pager motor and had them ranging from 0% to about 70% of the max motor speed, with one vibrating fully at North and one vibrating fully at South.
*It was very hard to distinguish which pager motor was vibrating, two theories for this:
*#The ankle is not sensitive enough
*#The velcro strap is too rigid and transmits too much vibration throughout the material
*Further testing quickly revealed that:
*#The behavior of the pager motors are not equal and as a pair are not acting as expected.
*#Whoah something is crazy wrong with our circuits!
*#Hooray! Turns out the little bin labeled "2N2222" transistors actually has 2N2222's in the front, but other, almost visually identical transistors in the back. We had one of each. / "Oh look, there are actually two labels!" / "BLAST!"
*Dang. Now the two pager motors are clearly differentiable.
**The Moral: Always debug your circuits and learn to read labels.
*Now that the right transistors are driving both motors we see:
*#The ankle is sensitive and perfectly capable of differentiating which vibrator is on
*#So, the velcro strap is not transmiting so much vibration as to be confusing.
*#But, when the motors are both on and running somewhere in the middle of the range of speeds (as in when pointing Eastwardish or Westwardish) it's practically impossible to tell which one is running faster.
*#Having one vibrator on the shin and one and the back tendon is less sensitive than positioning both on the left and right of the ankle (I think the muscle jiggles more).
[[Image:Anklethack-7.jpg]]

===Round 3===
*Now we messed with phasing the vibration in pulses, rather than varying the strength. We are starting with running both motors at the same speed together.

Pulse width table:

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
|-
! Direction
! Pulse
|-
|-
| S
| !----------
|-
| W
| !-----XXXXX
|-
| N
| !XXXXXXXXXX
|-
| E
|!XXXXX-----
|}

Key:
"!" is the initial 100ms pulse, "-" is 200ms off, and "X" is 200ms on. Each interval lasts 2100ms followed (I think) by another 100ms gap.

* This seems fairly intuitive on the ankle, and easier to tell direction than the strength modulation of Round 2. It also works almost as well with _just one motor_ going.
* As in Round 2, sensitivity is better with motors on sides, rather than on shin and back tendon
[[Image:Anklethack-8.jpg]]

==The New Code==
<pre>
/*
Some Hitachi HM55B Compass reading code copied from: kiilo kiilo@kiilo.org
License: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ch/
*/

#include <LCD4Bit.h> // module for lcd
#include <math.h> //
#include <stdio.h>

//// VARS
byte VIB1_pin = 3;
byte VIB2_pin = 5;
byte CLK_pin = 6;
byte EN_pin = 4;
byte DIO_pin = 11;

int X_Data = 0;
int Y_Data = 0;
int angle;

float vibro_strength;
float pulse_length;

//Create LCD object with 2 line display
LCD4Bit lcd = LCD4Bit(2);
char string[20];
int status;
unsigned long serialTimer = millis();

//// FUNCTIONS

void ShiftOut(int Value, int BitsCount) {
for(int i = BitsCount; i >= 0; i--) {
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, LOW);
if ((Value >> i) & 1) {
digitalWrite(DIO_pin, HIGH);
//Serial.print("1");
}
else {
digitalWrite(DIO_pin, LOW);
//Serial.print("0");
}
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(1);
}
//Serial.print(" ");
}

int ShiftIn(int BitsCount) {
int ShiftIn_result;
ShiftIn_result = 0;
pinMode(DIO_pin, INPUT);
for(int i = BitsCount; i >= 0; i--) {
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(1);
if (digitalRead(DIO_pin) == HIGH) {
ShiftIn_result = (ShiftIn_result << 1) + 1;
//Serial.print("x");
}
else {
ShiftIn_result = (ShiftIn_result << 1) + 0;
//Serial.print("_");
}
digitalWrite(CLK_pin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(1);
}
//Serial.print(":");

// below is difficult to understand:
// if bit 11 is Set the value is negative
// the representation of negative values you
// have to add B11111000 in the upper Byte of
// the integer.
// see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two%27s_complement
if ((ShiftIn_result >> 11) & 1) {
ShiftIn_result = (B11111000 << 8) | ShiftIn_result;
}

return ShiftIn_result;
}

void HM55B_Reset() {
pinMode(DIO_pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, LOW);
ShiftOut(B0000, 3);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, HIGH);
}

void HM55B_StartMeasurementCommand() {
pinMode(DIO_pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, LOW);
ShiftOut(B1000, 3);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, HIGH);
}

int HM55B_ReadCommand() {
int result = 0;
pinMode(DIO_pin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(EN_pin, LOW);
ShiftOut(B1100, 3);
result = ShiftIn(3);
return result;
}

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
pinMode(EN_pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(CLK_pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(DIO_pin, INPUT);

lcd.init();
lcd.commandWrite(0x0E); //curson on, display on, blink off

HM55B_Reset();
}

void loop() {
if (millis() - serialTimer > 2200 ) {

//read compass and print data to lcd and serial out
lcd.cursorTo(2,0);
HM55B_StartMeasurementCommand(); // necessary!!
//delay(40); // the data is 40ms later ready
status = HM55B_ReadCommand();
Serial.print(status); // read data and print Status
sprintf(string, "%2d", status);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.print(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");
X_Data = ShiftIn(11); // Field strength in X
Y_Data = ShiftIn(11); // and Y direction
Serial.print(X_Data); // print X strength
sprintf(string, "%3d", X_Data);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.print(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");
Serial.print(Y_Data); // print Y strength
sprintf(string, "%3d", Y_Data);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.print(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");
digitalWrite(EN_pin, HIGH); // ok deselect chip
angle = 180 * (atan2(-Y_Data , X_Data) / M_PI); // angle is atan( -y/x) !!!
Serial.print(angle); // print angle
sprintf(string, "%4d", angle);
lcd.printIn(string);
Serial.println(" ");
lcd.printIn(" ");

// control motors with new pulse scheme
// always pulse at start for 100ms
// then, pulse for variable time depending on angle
pulse_length = (angle*2000.0/180.0);
lcd.cursorTo(1,0);
lcd.printIn(" PuLn=");
sprintf(string, "%4d ", int(pulse_length));
lcd.printIn(string);
pinMode(VIB1_pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(VIB2_pin, OUTPUT);
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, 255);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, 255);
delay(100);
if (pulse_length > 0)
{
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, 215);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, 215);
delay(2000-int(pulse_length));
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, 0);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, 0);
delay(pulse_length); // not actually necessary...
}
else
{
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, 0);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, 0);
delay(-int(pulse_length));
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, 215);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, 215);
delay(2000+ int(pulse_length));
analogWrite(VIB1_pin, 0);
analogWrite(VIB2_pin, 0);
}
}
}
</pre>

==Plans for Next Hacking Session==
* Next meeting 10am on Thursday
* We plan to get more motors going - at least 4; this will require moving/removal of LCD screen (which has been bloody useful for debugging!) in order to access more PWM pins on the arduino.
[[Image:Anklethack-9.jpg]]

==Stuff that would have been nice to have==
*"Third hand" for holding stuff while soldering.
*Our RBBBs already! That's why we [[RBBB_ORDER_SIGN_UP|ordered them today]].

[[Category:Sensebridge]]